mart

+1 to that. I've got Warwicks from the '80s, '90s, '00s and '10s, and it's the 2010 that has the best neck for me. It's simply fantastic.

I succumbed to the Ryder madness and bought a goldtop. The wood feels good and heavy, but whoever put the strings on couldn't tell an A from an E, so I've got two A-strings! But for the price I'm not complaining.

Nice! I predict Warwick second hand prices will now start to rise as everyone follows warwickpunkdude's example

Some of the MEC parts prices are insane. I found some cheap pots (inc push/pull) on Thomann - EMG if I remember rightly, and under £10. No probs with them so far.

Is it working at all? I mean, are you getting any sound? More details on what's working and what's not will help with diagnosis.

The "vol kits" in that first diagram are not essential, but if you don't put them in, DO NOT just put wire in their place - simply leave them out. (They are treble bleeders: without them, when you turn the volume down, the sound seems to get a little muddier. These things let more treble come through when you turn the volume down, so as to counteract this effect. Putting that another way, they make the volume control have more effect on the bass frequencies and less on the treble).

[quote name='charic' post='1120095' date='Feb 8 2011, 02:03 PM']...MIM fenders can be great what can be problematic is the QC.
...[/quote]

Isn't the same true for MIA Fenders!

[quote name='silddx' post='1119101' date='Feb 7 2011, 04:59 PM']Wickid! Great work! Our minds think alike mate [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=120481&hl=silddx"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...1&hl=silddx[/url][/quote]

Mhmmm - nice! And you went for the black nylons too - I was thinking about those, but am so attached to TIs, so I haven't yet. But they really do complete the look!

[quote name='Bilbo' post='1119080' date='Feb 7 2011, 04:44 PM']I'd leave the band [/quote]

Surely not. You wouldn't have joined in the first place!!

[quote name='silddx' post='1119049' date='Feb 7 2011, 04:26 PM']mart, you got a picture of the rest of that Wick in your avatar mate? I'd like to see it![/quote]

Yep, although it's not quite what it seems:


You can read about how it turned white, and see more pics of it before, during and after, here:
[url="http://forum.warwick.de/17-warwick-rockbasses/13065-great-rockbass-renovation-project.html"]http://forum.warwick.de/17-warwick-rockbas...on-project.html[/url]

[quote name='silddx' post='1119021' date='Feb 7 2011, 04:02 PM']... water under the bridge now.[/quote]

Water under the bridge? Nasty. That's another reason to make sure your packaging is waterproof.

Ok, I'll get my coat...

[quote name='Johnston' post='1118853' date='Feb 7 2011, 01:28 PM']I think it was the daughters Hanna Montana guitar that arrived with a foot print on the box. [/quote]

They must have known what was in it!

The list price on the Korean P-Nut is about £1500 IIRC.
There are still loads of German-made Warwicks, but they are increasing the number of Korean or Chinese made lines.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1112417' date='Feb 2 2011, 01:59 PM']....
Out:
I'm sorry I don't understand...[/quote]


[quote name='dave_bass5' post='1112615' date='Feb 2 2011, 04:39 PM']In 2010:
...

Out 2010.
...[/quote]
Didn't you also have a number of MIAs that were in and out?

I don't even want to think about my list

Whoops! It's been a long day ....

Yes, of course, you're right, so my explanation wasn't as sensible as I'd have liked ...

But I still think my answer is right:
10mm centre-to-centre spacing would leave just 1mm from the centre of the B string to the edge and 1mm from the C to the edge, which is clearly not feasible (especially since the B string will be about 3mm wide). With 9mm spacing, that leaves just 3.5mm on each side, which sounds about right, or maybe a bit tight, which was why I reckoned it would be a shade under 9mm.

When I saw them live in 2008 it was a P all the way.

Thought you guys might find this thread from the Warwick forum amusing - how to get the sound of a drill!
[url="http://forum.warwick.de/10-warwick-basses/7215-buzzy-growl.html"]http://forum.warwick.de/10-warwick-basses/...uzzy-growl.html[/url]

Well, the individual centre-to-centre string distance will be slightly under 9mm, won't it? (That being 52 divided by 5 and rounded).

[quote name='willferox' post='1111238' date='Feb 1 2011, 04:48 PM']Hey everyone, thanks to 'bigthumb' I have now discovered the seriel code on the back of the headstock reads something LIKE: 0-003059-94[/quote]

The first character is actually a letter - maybe C or G? In any case, the bass is from '94, if it ends with -94.

The tuners I bought from Warwick have the W engraved, so no, I don't think you would be able to remove it. If you go for the black ones, then you could stick a piece of vinyl over the back to cover the W!

I thought this was going to be about Jeff Berlin

[quote name='Bloodaxe' post='1107381' date='Jan 29 2011, 05:16 PM']My monitor's a bit stuffed at the moment, but if we're seeing the same thing (sort of light-to-dark 'steps') then it's what's known as [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colour_banding"]'colour banding'[/url]. It's just a by-product of over-compressing an image, usually as a result of decreasing the colour depth - GIFs are common culprits, but pretty much all formats can suffer from it. Just poor image choice, nothing in the paint job.[/quote]

Ah ok. Yep, that's probably it. Thanks for explaining!

Well, WH is one the case so I can retire
But yes, those definitely look like modern Schallers although the size might have changed slightly. And you may be able to put new Schallers buttons in place of the old ones even if you can't just use new locks on the old buttons.

A google search for Schaller and Dunlop and Warwick strap buttons might show you which you've got. Certainly Warwick used some Schaller hardware back then and, now it comes back to me, my Nobby had Schaller locks when I got it. Don't know if they were original or not, but it's a possibility.

In the second big photo - the one of the back of the bass - what are the wiggly lines running roughly from top right to bottom left? They look a bit like paint runs, or is it just the grain coming through?

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='1106927' date='Jan 29 2011, 01:47 AM']that's easy even for a plonker like me, ok.. follow me:

the promethean head can be detached from the cab by undoing these 2 great big thumb screws, ok? So it removed it and sat it on top of the Mark Bass combo, I then unplugged the speaker lead from the back of the Mark Bass head and plugged it in the speaker output of the promethean, and hey presto.[/quote]

So the lead coming from the MB speaker was long enough to reach the Promethean head, but you couldn't get the Ashdown head close enough for it? Ok, I think I understand now!