mart

I'm sufficiently bored that I just programmed that into Garageband which showed that I'd only got it half right. It also enabled me to put it in standard notation to help with your sight-reading


(But note that the pedal D should be played an octave lower than it is written).

I can't see the pics.

I wouldn't have though you'd want sheet music with both notation and tab on, unless you're only just starting to read music at all. As soon as possible you should switch to music that has no tab; otherwise you'll find you're reading the tab no matter how hard you try to concentrate on the standard notation.

My fingers know how to play this on guitar (they remember better than my brain these days), and off the top of my head I think you could play it on bass if you dropped the E-string to a D like this:

[code]G---14----14----12----12---10----10----9----9----7---7---5---5--5-4----
D------15----------14---------12---------10--------9-------7--------5--
A----------------------------------------------------------------------
D-0-----------0----------0----------0----------0-------0---------------[/code]

I don't have a guitar or bass to hand to test this, so this may be off, but it might get you started.

May 1st sounds good to me too.

[quote name='Apex' post='1092984' date='Jan 17 2011, 07:29 PM']And if you have bring it - I'd love to have a go

Yes Rich, it's still only half an hour down the road so count me in!

Besides the Peavey Millennium I can offer a Sandown basic 5 and, of course, the Barefaced Bass Compact cab if anyone is interested.[/quote]

I'd definitely like to hear the Compact!

I can bring my baby Shuttle rig (3.10), and a couple of Warwicks. I could even bring my Squier CV P 60s if there's anyone who doesn't already own one but wants to try it out!

[quote name='Johnston' post='1092628' date='Jan 17 2011, 03:41 PM']....
The only way I could think above the nut or behind the bridge would make a difference is if you have a high action or doing some string bending. If you have more free length then you would get give over say your 41" rather than 35" for the headless. So it should have more stretchyness because there is more string to stretch. If that makes sense.[/quote]

I agree with this in that when you displace the string (e.g. when bending a string) you are stretching it slightly, and the increase in tension will be proportionate to the increase in string-length [i]as a fraction of the total free length[/i], i.e., 41" instead of 35" in the case above. Of course, this assumes your nut is lubricated enough to let the string pass over it quite freely.

But I don't think this only applies when you have a high action or are bending strings: I think you notice that difference whenever you fret a note, or whenever you pluck a note - since both activities involve displacing the string slightly.

I've no idea how you'd exactly measure this effect, but Johnston's suggestion seems a good idea.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1092573' date='Jan 17 2011, 02:56 PM']For me Precisions are a bit [attachment=69131:P.mp3] while Jazzes are more [attachment=69129:J.mp3][/quote]

Were those recorded with the bass going straight into your PC? Otherwise you're going to have to tell us what amp and settings you used!

Tee hee!

But now I am puzzled: how did you get this:

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='1079614' date='Jan 6 2011, 11:00 AM'].....
1) if I plug the promethean head through the mark bass 2 x 10" cab it works.
....[/quote]

to work?

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='1088878' date='Jan 14 2011, 07:22 AM']I'm further puzzled or I might be a bit dumb this morning; how does this account link to the guy who bought the BB1000? [/quote]

Looking very closely at the pics of the BB - especially the back - you can just see that the graining on the wood is the same on both listings. So it seems very likely to be the same bass. And ditto with the CSL - the grain on the back is identical for the two listings.

Of course, for both basses, there could have been an intermediate change of hands between the two ebay listings, but the fact that this guy is selling both basses now suggests a pattern.

Sounds great - count me in!

[quote name='Mykesbass' post='1088192' date='Jan 13 2011, 03:43 PM']Even if all this gear does what it says, what are you going to listen to on it? There are, after all, only so many direct metal mastered, virgin vinyl Alan Parsons Project albums out there [/quote]

Oh, they've got that problem sorted already: look under "Essential Accessories" and you'll find such delights as this:
[url="http://www.russandrews.com/category.asp?lookup=0&region=UK&currency=GBP&customer_id=PAA1378017111017SBMJKUVHXSDRGIXT&cat_id=PlinncdsScottish"]http://www.russandrews.com/category.asp?lo...linncdsScottish[/url]

[quote name='dougie' post='1088382' date='Jan 13 2011, 06:07 PM']were talkin about a 6mm approx screw stuck in a lump of wood here lol,hack the button off,grab the remaining shank with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle it....bet u can withdraw it easy with moleys/pliers...had a 18mm threaded bolt shear in a truck chassis at work,now that was a f****r[/quote]

Yep, you're absolutely right. Following the suggestions from everyone I took a Dremel to the strap button and, eventually, cut that off the screw. This took quite a while because I couldn't cut along the axis of the screw without cutting the wood, so I had to slide in at an angle. Once the button was off, the mole-grips were on, and it came out without any hassle at all.

Thanks so much to everyone on here - I was getting real stressed about this, and you guys sorted me out in a matter of moments. Now I can go and play with the thing instead of just worrying about it!

P.S. Talking to my wife about mole-grips, she mulled over the name: "Hmm, yes, moles do have a good grip. I remember when the cat brought in a mole, and somehow the mole got loose and then bit my mum's finger. She naturally pulled her finger away, but found that the mole was still attached - now dangling in mid air. How I laughed."

[quote name='icastle' post='1088203' date='Jan 13 2011, 03:50 PM']Mole grips have got one hell of a grip and let you exert far more torque than a screwdriver..
Most DIY places sell them (B&Q, Wickes, Homebase), they're not hugely expensive and once you have a pair you'll wonder how you ever did without them... [/quote]

Ta! I now have a pair, and will see if I can sort my screw out this evening. Hopefully I'll be back to report a successful outcome. But if BC ends up splattered in blood, you'll know it didn't work out well

[quote name='yorick' post='1088174' date='Jan 13 2011, 03:37 PM']These are mole grips...

[url="http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&source=imghp&biw=1020&bih=537&q=mole+grips&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai="]http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&...q=&gs_rfai=[/url]

You may have seen them....
They clamp and lock onto the screw, so they'll give more leverage.[/quote]

Thanks! I've spent a fair bit of time wandering about DIY stores but no, I don't think I'd ever noticed them before! Time for a trip to Screwfix I guess.

[quote name='ikay' post='1088132' date='Jan 13 2011, 03:12 PM']If the head of the screw is inside the button sound like it's going to be difficult or impossible to cut a new slot (and definitely not with a hammer!).

Is the strap button loose enough for you get a hacksaw to the screw shank (between button and body) and leave enough of it protruding to use mole grips to wind it out?[/quote]

If I take a hacksaw to the bit of the screw between the button and the body then I would have, at best, 3-4 mm of screw left protruding from the body. Would that be enough?

Thanks for all the suggestions!

The screw head is completely within the strap button - so I can't get any tool to the head except possibly a screwdriver.

But I do have a dremel, so cutting through the button to reveal the screw head is possible. The hammer trick wouldn't need this, but it sounds like a hammer is not a good idea. (It was an engineer that suggested it, and I did wonder about it! )

I've never heard of molegrips before - but if I cut away the strap button and expose the screw head, you think the molegrips will be able to turn the screw, even though it was stuck so fast my screwdriver gave up? Sorry, I'm a bit clueless about these mole thingies

Oooh, we should be using their cables for our computers too:

"but why not buy one of our mains cables... you'll cancel interference and your computer's sound and pictures will be sharper and clearer."
(taken from [url="http://www.russandrews.com/product.asp?lookup=1&region=UK&currency=GBP&pf_id=1170&customer_id=PAA1237014111701KYWGGSXPYLGKRJPJ"]http://www.russandrews.com/product.asp?loo...YWGGSXPYLGKRJPJ[/url])

Slightly more seriously: when you look at that site, does it tell you you have anything in your basket? I just glanced up and noticed it had put 3 things in my basket, without me clicking on anything. It was only £5000 worth of kit - I could just tell the wife it was an impulse buy.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='1088106' date='Jan 13 2011, 03:00 PM']Lol. Actually I remember a guitar magazine said that some expensive power cable made their amps sound a bit "louder" and "livelier". That was about it really. Also that was talking about a power lead that was about £100. I very much doubt it makes much difference, especially since it's already had to travel a good few miles from the power station to where you live through the power company's cables.
...[/quote]

Only £100? That must have been one of those cheapy cables that Victor Wooten advertises
[url="http://www.essentialsound.com/guitar-bass.htm#victor-wooten"]http://www.essentialsound.com/guitar-bass.htm#victor-wooten[/url]

[quote name='Truckstop' post='1087842' date='Jan 13 2011, 12:30 PM']At about 5.40, are they lap steel guitars?

Truckstop[/quote]

Yup.

Great video - thanks Burrito!

[quote name='icastle' post='1088001' date='Jan 13 2011, 02:01 PM']Nope.
Poncey stereo stuff generally uses 3A fuses... in fact I can't think of anything in the normal household 'AV' setup that actually would need a 13A fuse...[/quote]

Wouldn't a 13A fuse give more headroom ?

Changing the strap button on a new bass I managed to get the strap button screw one or two turns round and then it stuck fast. And after a few more attempts I'd pretty much stripped the head (it's a cross head screw). So now the screw is 2-3mm out, and the button is loose, but still surrounds the head so I can't get pliers to the head of the screw.

What do you recommend for getting the screw out? Should I:

1) Use a soldering iron to heat the screw up, and then try again when it's cooled? I've never succeeded with this - could some expert give more specific guidance about how to do it (e.g. how long does it take - seconds? or days?)

2) Make a new slot into the head using a hammer and a sharp flat-head screwdriver. Sounds a bit scary - is this wise on a musical instrument?

Or are there better ways of solving this?

Any tips gratefully received! Ta.

[quote name='Chris2112' post='1087023' date='Jan 12 2011, 06:43 PM']Will Warwick not make a custom one if you offer them thousands of pounds? I was sure I read somewhere that they were planning on reintroducing the 'Nobby'.[/quote]

Warwick re-introduced the Nobby in 2007 and have been making them ever since, with much "fancier" woods than the originals.
[url="http://www.warwick.de/modules/produkte/produkt.php?submenuID=14667&katID=22131&cl=EN"]http://www.warwick.de/modules/produkte/pro...22131&cl=EN[/url]
Eye-watering price though.

OTOH, there's a Romanian guy on the Warwick forum who is desperate to get rid of his Nobby: [url="http://forum.warwick.de/24-basses/12861-nobby-meidel-sale-trade.html"]http://forum.warwick.de/24-basses/12861-no...sale-trade.html[/url]

And if you PM me a nice offer, I might even part with mine!

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1086331' date='Jan 12 2011, 02:13 AM']What is 'crest factor'?

It is probably maths, that they tried to teach me in school, but did it without context.[/quote]

[url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crest_factor"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crest_factor[/url]