Dodge

[quote name='Sibob' post='574653' date='Aug 19 2009, 08:07 PM']I'm no luthier, but an extra £70 because (and this is down to real basic deduction, please tell me otherwise) it's a rosewood fingerboard as opposed to maple??[/quote] It's usually the other way around - maple necks tend to be lacquered and need the fingerboard refinishing after a refret.

Paypal will eventually refund you the full amount, although you might have to pay for the return if you're successful in your claim. THe other way to do it is to just call your credit card company and get them to stop the payment. THat tends to get Paypal's attention. Sadly, I've heard of Sheldonamps before as an ebay seller: [url="http://www.brasswind.org/330.htm"]http://www.brasswind.org/330.htm[/url] Good luck.

[quote name='The Burpster' post='402843' date='Feb 7 2009, 03:05 PM']You certainly are into those EGs...... (and no I havnet tried an earlier set neck bass)[/quote] Well we'll have to fix that then at the next bash. [quote]Just out of interest have you played a 513, and how does it compare to the EG II with the h/s/h set up that you have[/quote] I did try a 513 for a month or two, and to be honest - it didn't do it for me. VERY versatile guitar and a good tone for the most part, but it was a jack of all trades thing. It didn't really excel at anything other than being a fantastically versatile guitar. If you could only own one guitar to gig with, that would be as good as any on the planet. I'm sure it's way superior than the HSH configuration on my EG, but then my EG doesn't look like that anymore, it looks like this (picture just taken for you, hence the snow!): They're Wizard Tweedtones and it's made it the best EG I've got, and probably the best Strat I've ever played/owned.

[quote name='juice' post='402712' date='Feb 7 2009, 11:37 AM']that makes me wish I had never sold my black eg4 when I moved to bass.. nice collection tho my friend I have been told they did an EG4 in seafoam green as standard so I might have to keep an eye out for one to match my custom bass. juice[/quote] Thanks. I've got several guys looking for EG's in the States for me, so I'll let you know if I find one that you might be interested in. Cheers.

[quote name='The Burpster' post='402685' date='Feb 7 2009, 10:57 AM']Dodge, look forward to it, th' I have feeling I may get GAS for set neck model [/quote] Have you tried the first series basses? They're... well.. different! The onboard preamp is just crazy, SO much bass it's not really usable, plus the neck pickup is very odd sounding. Almost sine-wave like. I tend to use a Yamaha NE-1 parametric box to tone things down somewhat - but it's a lovely bass when you get to grips with it. Here's some more PRS's from my collection (6 strings though!)

[quote name='The Burpster' post='402605' date='Feb 7 2009, 09:00 AM']Dodge, if you can get to any of the BC bashes that I can make it to let me know and you may try any of mine.... [/quote] That's very kind - I'll be sure to bring mine along for you too. Cheers!

I really need to try the later series of PRS Bass...

[quote name='power of ten' post='401682' date='Feb 6 2009, 12:42 AM']Seems we've got a it of a PRS thread going...[/quote] Here's my 89 Curly Bass 4:

It's not particularly hard to do, but you have to consider where you will mount the battery and how you'll access it. Any reason why you have to have it onboard? If it was me, to protect the value of the instrument I'd use an outboard bass preamp like an Aguilar, Sadowsky etc.

I used to own 3 Streamers and a Fortress - my old 91 Streamer is still the best bass I've ever owned. Unfortunately, I had neck issues on my 87 Streamer caused by a very poor quality truss rod that was badly installed. I had a 2002 Streamer at one point, which was better made than the older ones (but didn't sound as good for some reason - I think the current 3-band electronics and pickups aren't as good as the older ones). Unfortunately for me, the luthier that was repairing my 87 also showed me 2 trussrods he'd removed from a couple of cheaper 'Wicks (not Rockbass) he was working on, and also told me of his repair history with Warwick basses and frankly it scared me into selling all of them. For the sort of money these basses command, these issues just shouldn't happen. Might have to look at Spector now though...

I wouldn't even bother with removing existing wax at this point - get straight into the steaming out of the dents, once you're happy with it give it a good clean and re-wax. Be gentle with the scotchbrite pad / wire wool, but any faint marks will be invisible after waxing anyway. I hate to say it, but that next doesn't look right at all - I hope it's an optical illusion. Neck issues are the single reason I no longer own Warwick basses.

[quote name='johnnylager' post='290701' date='Sep 24 2008, 11:27 AM']Tea towel porn mate, lovely. Look at the weave on that.[/quote]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290685' date='Sep 24 2008, 11:12 AM']Thanks for the advice everyone . I’m going to head into town in a bit to stock up on supplies (brush, steel wool, brown paper, scotchbrite cloth, and a cheap tea towel – if I use a nice one from the house my girlfriend is likely to kill me ) and then I’ll start work on it this afternoon through to this evening. I’ll probably take some pics of the whole process and update this thread as I go but obviously I’m not looking to rush it at all so it might take a few days to finish the whole job. Just 1 more question – Any advice on the best (economic and least messy) way to melt a small chunk of Warwick beeswax? I’ve got 2 pots of it – 1 old one that is quite dried up, and another that’s only about 3 months old and nice and fresh, so I’m thinking I’ll chop a bit of wax out of the dry pot and melt this and then tomorrow apply a ‘normal’ (not melted) fresh coat of the newer wax and then buff up as appropriate…is this the way to do it?[/quote] Take the lid off the wax, put the pot in a saucepan, heat it gently until the wax melts. When you're done, just let it cool down and solidify - no mess! Your old dried up wax will be fine. Here's the sort of tea towel I use, btw:

[quote name='rjb' post='290570' date='Sep 24 2008, 09:07 AM']With a brush as Paul Cooke said, or a decent bit of cloth will also be fine. I used a cloth.[/quote] Tried a brush and cloth, for me the best results were applying it with my fingers.

Did it many times with my natural SS1's and my cherry Streamer bass, but it'll wreck anything with lacquer or finish on it. Basically, if it's an impression (i.e. ding, buckle rash) it'll probably come out ok but if there's material missing like a chip or similar it won't help you. I used one of those linen tea towels soaked and rung out in clean water with a steam iron for the larger areas and a soldering iron for localised dings. If the tea towel starts to go brown then it needs soaking again. Linen will protect the wood from burning. When you're done, leave it to dry out for a fair few hours - the wood will probably shrink back a bit and you'll see if you need to do any more. If it's ok, get your fine grade steel wool out and smooth the area over. Then get your Warwick wax out and get to work! I do have some pics somewhere of my Streamer bass restoration which I'll try and find if you like.