Colledge

good times bad times by led zep is on my list, wasn't too sure i'd pull it off when it was recommended as a cover, buy now i find it easy and is one of my fave songs to play.

am i right in thinking the jag is active? in that case you can take the feed from the existing battery. also i've got the artec se3p, really great quality stuff for the money, easy to install (was all clip connectors) and the pots are all really smooth and solid. no experience with the od pot though.

from [url="http://terrydownsmusic.com/Archive/tele_body_drawing_revD.pdf"]this[/url] diagram, the distance from the bottom of the neck pocket to the bottom of the body on a tele is 12.847", the distance (from quickly measuring a bass) from the bottom of the neck pocket to the bottom of the bridge on a 20 fret, 34" bass is around 12", pretty tight. i could use a 22 or 24 fret neck which would free up a few inches.

i don't have a tele on hand, but i know for sure that a strat has enough room for a 20 fret neck and 34" scale, by lining up the neck pockets of my bass and old guitar. a tele seems to have more room back there for a bridge so i recon scale wouldn't be a problem. just found the exact bass i had in my head.

i've decided to embark on a winter bass project as i don't have my usual winter bike project. the plan is to buy either a cheap-o complete tele guitar or just a body (of better quality) i'll then either buy a mighty mite neck (or other) or a donor bass. and all other parts off the bay. I'm undecided on wether to go for a precision or a jazz neck, definitely maple though. i'll use the standard tele control plate with precision electronics and pickup, maybe single coil type. I have no actual measurements at the moment, but from a quick eye up, i figure its just a case of re-routing the neck pocket and there seems enough room back there for the bridge. provisional specs: 4 strings, standard fender (either p or j) spacing 34" 20 frets the finest chinese ply body Maple p or j neck with modified tele headstock. bent tin or badass bridge and lightweight tuners. precision wiring and pickup either standard split coil or inline early tele style. undecided wether oly white, fiesta red or sea foam green, maybe with a light relic. i'm aware that i'll most probably get horrendous neck dive from having pretty much no upper horn... but thats a sacrifice i'm happy to make. I should be ordering parts sometime in the next few days.

oh man, think he might accept an offer of £200?... and a bag of magic stars.

i've found it come in handy too, tend to use it for volume more than anything else, so i ca tone it down a bit on certain songs when i have a compressor on. assigning it to things like low pass filters with synths can get some pretty impressive results too if you're into that sorta thing.

i've never used the m9, but i've been very impressed with the fuzz / overdrives and amp models available on my gt6-b, i use it mostly for a bit of subtle chorus and flanger the majority of the time though, can do subtle much better than any other effects ive used.

to me that just looks like a more upmarket / better finished version of a wish bass.... no thanks.

if i had a superfly, i would buy an 8ohm 4x10 (making sure it has 8 ohm drivers rather than 2 or 32 (i don't even know if there is such a thing) and rewire it to present 2x4ohm loads so i could get the full power from a single cab.

i swear by tweed covered leads, mainly because they simply don't get tangled up and as a result i'm yet to have one fail on me (after using them for about 3 years) whereas i've had countless standard leads break after a few months of use. makes life alot easier when setting up for a gig too, no 5 mins wasted untangling cables.

play up here and i'd definitely come. the likes of kyuss, karma to burn and fumanchu have been the soundtrack to my last couple of years.

i'm guessing that the drivers are 8ohms each. in that case the wiring is easy peasy. just both drivers in parallel.... that means a wire going from the input socket of the cab to each cab and then a wire from each opposite end of the driver back to the opposite end of the input socket, without any wires going between the drivers.

a bit more work, but on my 5er fretless project i finished the maple / sapele fretboard with Cyanoacrylate (superglue). suprisingly little sanding and steel wool brought up a beautiful mirror finish and 6 months of roundwoulds have hardly made a mark.

that looks like a nice p to me! bridge looks nice-n-chunky. just think of the ply body as the body equivalent of a multi laminate neck

don't expect tone nirvana, ive done it a few times and wasn't too impressed. Josh Homme however shows that guitar amps thru bass cabs can sound killer.

imo would look even better with a smaller scratch plate and a proper tele style chrome control plate rather than a telebass style setup.

[quote name='gjones' post='998723' date='Oct 24 2010, 11:54 AM']If it was fretted I'd be interested.[/quote] if it was fretless... that bridge would have to go!

using a bass cab - no problem at all, fire away. with a guitar cab as you say, just be careful with the bass knob, the speakers won't be made to handle deep bass, but then again, using a bi-amp setup means you don't need the bass to come from the guitar rig.

do you feel like you could use something like a sansamp rbi... or some people could use a big eq section... not my cup of tea though.

[quote name='Mog' post='997530' date='Oct 22 2010, 09:04 PM']The head is 700 watts @ 2 ohms. You'd need 4 of those cabs to get the full whack.[/quote] but one perk of at 8 ohm 4x10 is that it is relatively easy to rewire it to 2 ohms. just put all of the cones in parralel (assuming they use 8 ohm drivers as apose to the possible 32 ohms)

absolutely stunning bass and great review. I can't help but feel that its a waste having the back of the bass.... on the back. love the contrasting colours of the back.