Colledge

i think i'd rather slap a bass nut and bridge on a strat, they use the same scale length and i doubt there'd be much in it neck width wise.

i'm having my first venture into fretless playing and i hope to eventually get half decent at it so i can use it in a live situation. i'm quite impressed with the range of tones i can extract from it, even some nice growly driven MM tones, no doubt mostly due to a beefy humbucker, roundwounds and a rock solid fingerboard coating. my question is do you think there are any situations where a fretless bass should never be used? any objections to using a fretless for songs that where never originally intended for fretless playing?

i'd put money on some grown up chav buying that to slap onto his blinged out range rover.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' post='955918' date='Sep 14 2010, 12:42 PM']You should know that TE's 300W are pretty much the same as modern makes's 500W or more! With a stack of a 300W head + 1x18" + 4x10"H cranked up i'm shure you could knock down some thick walls [/quote] + a 1, my 280w trace head seems alot more powerful than my old mag600 setup, but i think that has alot to do with better quality cabs too.

[quote name='zero9' post='955939' date='Sep 14 2010, 01:05 PM']The frequency of a low B on bass guitar is about 31Hz, thus it's important to have the correct speaker / cabinet to be able to reproduce this with any kind of 'volume'.[/quote] the fundamental is, and to get your trousers flapping, yeah you do need the extra low response, but most of what you hear is not the fundamentals.

how would you re-design the cooling system? the fan is no big deal for me but theres no harm in improving it. i'm getting the aluminium for a new headcase bent for me this week, i'm thinking of adding a few slots above the heatsinks to get a bit of convection cooling / extra air output and then have an inline pot for fan speed so i could turn it off for quiet practice / recording? good or bad idea?

found one on the bay, happy days. i'd buy it right now but ive been a plonker and lost both of my halifax cards so the cards are blocked at the moment. ...couldnt have happened at a worse time, a week before freshers and i also need petrol, and then this.

oops yeah, bad link, the one i meant was the se3p. i'll give mr. ebay a message and see what he says, cheers.

thanks, its a shame iver never been able to use it in anger because of the dodgy electronics.... that and my inability to play fretless well yet. [url="http://www.artecsound.com/pickups/index.html"]This[/url] 3 band eq with parametric mids seems perfect but i can't seem to source one anywhere.

thanks for the pointers. i'm thinking the [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ARTEC-SE2A-se2-a-BASS-GUITAR-EQUALIZER-ELECTRONICS-EQ-/360232144782?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item53df824f8e#ht_3897wt_829"]artec[/url] pre will work. seeing as the pickup pan pot will be redundant because of only having the single pickup, i'm thinking also sometime in the future i could add a peizo transducer into the upper cavity.

the 300w is shared between the 2 cabs so each will get about 150w. also power rating isn't that important, theres no harm in running an amp into cabs that can only take alot less power, aslong as you know when to turn down the volume.

the contents of this thread has thoroughly disappointed me. i was expecting at least neon underlights and spinners.

okay, i'll admit it, i always thought they were called shadowsky, not sadowsky. i have no idea how or why.

[quote name='Radiomike' post='952809' date='Sep 11 2010, 03:25 PM']I used to Build Berman Amps I started out building cabs 12" then Bass cabs 1 x 18" then 2 x 18" then Big bass cabs[/quote] if a 2 x 18" isnt a "big bass cab" then i'd like to know what kind of bohemoth is!

long story short, i have this bass. i made it last year as my A-level product design coursework (got my A) the original idea was to have a little big muff onboard + p-bass tone controls, hence the 5 controls and big upper cavity, i got all the bits to fit, but it turned out that the wiring wasn't going to be as simple as i originally thought, so i ended up with 3 dummy knobs and just the p-bass controls. while in storage for assessment, the volume pot got broken. I could easily get another 250k pot, but the whole thing is a mess anyway and i'd like something with some more knobs so i'm not just wasting all of the control cavity. what do you guys recommend? it doesn't have to fill all 5 holes, and i don't really have any preference for passive/ active, 2/3 band eq etc. ps. feel free to ask me about the bass, i'm chuffed to bits with it, plays really well (not very comfortable seated though) for something made in a badly equipped school tech room with a student budget.

what am i missing?

what is the general consensus about 18's? i know big pa subs all use them and they'll have bot all treble, but i just can't imagine them doing anything but create muffled, boomy horribleness.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110584228512&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp3907.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D110584228512%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1#ht_996wt_1055"]to save people searching[/url] i never realised ampeg ever actually made something unusual / unique!

well having 350w through more speakers, you will get more volume than 500w through one cab.... however if the songle cab is bigger / higher spl than what you are using at the moment, then it would be louder, but not much louder than if you were running 250 watts into it.

welcome, i'm starting uni this months too, also looking forward to my loans / bursaries to come through.... i know where they'll be going.

you can't get much more punk than a big, heavy, cheap but groundshaking peavey or trace elliot 2x15 with a peavey mkIV or old trace head to match. If you don't mind the bulk, theres some amazing deals to be had for some real quality gear.

i have a maple fretless (well maple / sapele /maple sandwich) and its great, don't see why there arn't more around. as long as they're properly coated imo they look and sound better than rw.

well at the moment its just the pickup wired to a jack because of some pillock managing to break a pot while the bass was stored for examination. but while it was all working it was great, my first venture into fretless so i can't really compare it to much but i was really impressed by the amount of variation in tone of the p-bass circuit, all my other basses are active and i didn't expect that. the pickup is in the bridge position and it can get really bright if thats what you're after.

an AB box with volume controlls would work a treat, but you could also use a booster pedal to boost the volume of the jazz.

as far as i know, theres nothing to stop you from using an MM style pickup, active and passive pickups work just the same, its just the circuits they're attached to that makes a difference. infact for my a-level project i made a bass with an mm pickup but p-bass passive tone circuit.