deepbass5

It could be your central heating pump coming in or tumble dryer etc. Just a thought before you start taking your gear apart. Any inductive load switching on and off on the same ring circuit could do it.

I Thought i would post my today's indoor project. I have two beloved Acme Low B cabs both 4 ohm. One gets all the use nowadays whilst the other sits indoors for home practice. I used to gig both in a functions band using a little GK fusion head DI'ed to a Mark bass amp for the second cab. But now for louder rock gigs I go through a TecAmp 4x10. But have still fancied my 2x12 occasionally, so this is where I am, and not wanting to run two amps. Pictured my previous old jack lead, but i have just purchased a set of Speakon's red and blue so I can colour code the right one for the amp, I keep forgetting which jack is what and have to keep testing them which is why i don't use them. Pictured below is my new lead with Speakons Red for the amp blue for cabs. So Positive from amp speakon heads out and to +1 of first cab speakon the negative is not cut but looped inside. It is the other end of my newly cut positive wire that goes to the -1 and will go on to the +1 of the next cab. 2nd cab -1 will then find its way back to the amp via the uncut neutral in the top speakon and be terminated in the -1 of the Red amp speakon. Putting my two 4 ohm cabs into series giving me 8 ohms. The LAST PICTURE IS ME TESTING TO PROVE I GOT THINGS RIGHT. I am using a speakon though connector and a speakon to jack adaptor so i can use my bass lead to do a battery test. Using an old PP9 as it is down on volts, by touching positive to tip and negative to ring of the jack the speaker cones should jump forward, if connected correctly. always handy to take an old battery with you when buying second hand cabs to prove they are OK and all drivers are wired correctly. This will of course reduce the available output power from my amplifier but doubling my cone surface area will compensate THANKS FOR LOOKING HAPPY GIGGING FOR 2025

I feel very inadequate Fender Precision 77 Oly white maple board - gone Lag Force 4 headless - gone Yamaha BB1100s - gone Schack unique Ash 5 passive - gone ESP P bass S/B - R/W - gone Shuker series II 5 active - gone Marleaux Mbass 5 custom - 🥰 Here Schack active 5 bubinga - gone Rob Allen fretless 4 -gone Status electro 5 - gone Shuker build course bass 5 reverse P 🥰 Here Fender custom shop 62 relic 🥰 Here Bravewood 63 Jazz fret-less copy Blue - gone Ale Antia 5 chambered 5 string - gone Schack unique Ash 4 passive 🥰 Here

Having run the PA in our band for 30 years as well as the bass gear, the number of jack leads I had noticed in the wire bag that had dinks and scratched up barrels it made me wonder how you ever get a decent connection, along side dirt and grease from handling, not to mention the dust sucked into amps by the fan that collects in the female jack sockets. This alone convinced me early on to go to Speakon's as soon as I could. The design based on current ratings and safety aspect were a given, but we gained far more.

A good point + I have a piece cut for the job but found it was a bit OTT with the flats but will try again with the rounds when needed.

Funny you say that, as i have been looking out for a PJ with maple board i can have rounds on as an opposite and more versatile bass to the rosewood P with flats, but cant really justify it if i'm honest. I will run with this CS on rounds until GAS bites again, It really needs to be used more and i can easily EQ out the highs when required but can't bring them up if they were not there in the first place. cheers all -just sharing my new found joy 😁

Having bought this Custom shop 62 P bass relic about 5 years ago, I immediately order a set of La Bella flats to go on it. A bucket list bass. Only used for jazz since i got it as it sits under the radar nicely in that situation. However I fancied using it in the rock band i am in, Lets say heavy covers band. Many of you I know use Flats on your basses in similar bands, but wondered If you have also gone back to round wounds, for some extra bite and harmonic content. These are also easier on the fingers with reference to tension as my pinky is playing up these days. New strings are D'Addario Nickle 50,70,85,105 It sounds wonderful and having used it this week for jazz and rock I don't think i will go back now. any thoughts

I have been using these for about 15 years now, very tough outer sheath, although just for Bass amp to speaker connections 1 metre length. These are actually 4mm cores, but as above i would be reluctant to have long ones made up for PA use and run them round the stage.

Try Hifi cables Richer sounds were good but Halfords also do 2.5 mm and various other types, they are twin cables so they don't have a thick outer sleeve and fit into the socket terminal easy. Also oxygen free if you are into that belief for Hi-fi quality.

I have done this running two heads one as a pre-amp works fine. I now use the lead for two floor lights and two tails a fairly long 👍

This is something that annoys me too, with many manufacturers. they try to accommodate all sorts of bass with just a description of (long scale) and if there are dimensions given they're not always translatable to your bass. I have got round this previously by adding string through Ferrels on the E string or B & E. Pictured is my old schack 5. But I also did this on my brand new Bubinga bodied Schack and drilled an E & B. It is far more drastic than an extension tube at the bridge suggested above, but a better long term solution. On my Shuker build course bass i went for a reverse headstock design that put the G string closest to the nut and B string double that distance so has not got a problem of heavy string round winding post or string wrap over the nut.

Yes totally agree, I drew the shape of my intended mods on the bass in pencil and looked at it for days.

I recently changed pots for the new CTS black nylon body type, these were also push / pull pots as I have a coil tap on the pickup, I was so pleased with it i changed the Tone pot to push pull and used it as a kill switch all good and very quiet.