Ghost_Bass

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1456248231' post='2987057'] Ah. You've not played through a Hiwatt, then, eh..? You're right, though; they're heavy. Very heavy. Not so fragile in a flight case, but even heavier of course. Still, if one wants clean, to the roof, some folks find 'em worth lugging around. [/quote] I believe you, don't know if you missed the point of my post or not but i was just putting things in another perspective for those who constantly defend the all mighty "heft".

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1456247226' post='2987039'] I think you should be relaxed about people's opinions, and have faith in your own :-) [/quote] I'm a very tolerant person, believe me, i couldn't care less about what other people do or think. I'm just tired of having to scroll down the same old posts looking for some usefull info...

All this lightweight bashing is getting pretty worn out... FFS, everytime anybody starts a thread about Class-D/Neo gear it brings out an anti-lightweight angry mob armed with torches, pitchforks and banners with the word "HEFT" written... There's no better sound, there's no better gear, there's no better tone. Tone Nirvana is diferent for everybody and it's achievable from diferent bits of gear depending on personal taste and tonal preferences. I have an idea. Let´s try something new and turn the tables for a bit. Let me talk a bit about Valve Amps... Valve amps are cr*p! It's impossible to get a good clean tone from them. With the volume knob past 1 they start to distort and making farty noises, no definition and detail whatsoever. They are very expensive and require constant maintenance, wich is also expensive. They are big an bulky, are a pain in the b*t to carry and take too much storage space. Best way to carry them is to get an even bigger rack to store, thus adding to the total weight! Health problems normally come with them, normally back issues and hernias. They are very sensitive to active basses and are hard to get a great match with anything other than a Precision. Even though they are big and heavy they are the most sissy amps in the market, if you have the misfortune to knock one while going through a door or drop it just a few cm from the ground the valves pack up and you're left without an amp for you gig... So... will you burn me in a stick or can you see my reasoning? Of course i don't really feel this way about Valve or SS amps, i've had them, enjoyed them, played with them and settled with my current Class-D for my personal tonal preferences. I don't go on knocking everybody that starts a thread about Valve/SS amps just because "my gear is the best sound i've ever had so it has to be better than your gear"... My 2p.

One more question i remembered, have you tried panning the pickups whilst on a gig? Are the strings weak no mather you're using neck/both/bridge pickups? If it happens no mather how you pan the pickups it should be a problem with the preamp, it would be very unlikely that both your pickups develop the same fault at the same time.

Only happens with the band? Well, that's another story. Opens a lot of questions. How is your amp's EQ when you play with the band, are you cutting too much high mids/highs? If you play your gear alone at home (at band volume) is the problem there? When you sondcheck is the problem there? Are you only feeling the loss when the other instruments kick in? Are you going through FOH, who is the tech, have you tried talking to him to see if he's doing the standard "V" EQ on you bass cutting your mids? It could pretty much be a problem with the band mix an the way you're EQing your instruments.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1456068600' post='2985068'] (...) the way I test is to tear a sliver of paper & put on top of first fret while fretting the string at the 2nd, if the scrap of paper falls out - the nut slot ain't deep enough (...) [/quote] Great simple trick! That's my lesson learned for today, thanks

With E > C tuning you had weak D G and C and now with B > G tuning you have weak D and G strings! Have i got this right? Don't think the problem is in the pickups. One way to find this for sure is to either rotate your pickups 180º (best way to do this but only if you have enough wire to do it) [b]OR [/b]put a G string on the E/B position and listen if it still sound weak. If the G string improves then try an A string in the D or G position (be carefull not to wreck the nut) and see if it's weak. If the A string gets dull and the G improves then your pickups are knackered, if it remains the same then the problem is elsewere. It looks to me that this probably is a preamp problem. Does it have any internal trim pots to cut/boost low and highs?, the highs may be trimed a bit too far! It could be also a knackered component.

[quote name='colgraff' timestamp='1456100987' post='2985473'] Are you a bass player, a bassist or a bass guitarist? Do you care which of these names people use to identify you? Personally I don't mind but I know some people get very exercised about it. [/quote] I'm more than happy to be called any of these names, it means i'm still playing my bass (guitar) and enjoying it! I know it's a bass guitar but i call it bass, to shorten, most people tend to do this.

[b]"LESS IS MORE!"[/b]

I like this thread it should be a very interesting exercise. Lets see... My gear is all (almost) justifiable at the time: [b]Basses:[/b] [u]Maison (P-copy)[/u] - it was my first bass, won't sell it for no money, just hangs on the wal so i can look at it with nostalgia and a smile on my face and ocasionaly pick it up for a couple of notes just to remember how far i've come. [u]Maison TB Series (Bass collection copy)[/u] - my second bass, was given to me by my late grandfather and is now the most valuable bass i own, the one i'd rescue from a burning house. It's not being played at the moment as i have a replacement preamp to fit in it. [u]Yamaha TRB5PII[/u] - "My Bass", the one that has "My Sound", my go to bass and the one that i gig with more often. [u]Yamaha TRB5P[/u] - The backup bass, i use it every now and then for a period so i can rest my back/shoulder a bit as the 5PII is a bit on the heavy side. [u]Yamaha BB1000S[/u] - I got this in a trade (my Ken Smith for the TRB5P and the BB1000S), it's the only bass i can't really justify but it's nice and sounds great. It's good to take to gigs where i would be affraid to damage the TRB's. I'm not a 4-stringer so i'll probably end up putting it on the FS section soon. [u]APC UKE Bass[/u] - Got it as a x-mas present for myself because the guitarists in my band own a couple of guitaleles and the drummer has a cajon and we're thinking about setting up an acoustic set (for those venues that don't want loud bands) and to busk a bit in the summer just for the fun of it (going to the beach and play together). It will look very funny with the mini-instruments. I've used the Uke on gigs and it sounds very good. [u]Stagg EUB[/u] - Have it as a long term loan from a friend with the option to buy. I don't gig it, i have it because i love the sound and i don't have a very good ear so it's been helping me develop that part. Still don't know if i'll keep it but has been great fun to practise with it (a bit frustrating at times but it's all part of playing/learning bass). [b]Amps/Cabs/Combos:[/b] [u]Genz Benz Shuttle 9.2[/u] - My main amp, has the clean, flat sound i look for with no fiddling in the knobs. Very portable and reliable. Use it all the time in almost every gig. [u]Alembic F-1X + KMT DC5 (1kW)[/u] - I have this rack for those gigs in big outdoor stages. It packs more punch than the Shuttle and has the sub-bass that it's needed in the outdoors just to give that kick on the back that we all love. [u]Barefaced Super12T[/u] - The only cab i have, the only cab i need. Does everything from practise to those big outdoor gigs. Light and very easy to carry. Has been dropping sound techs and roadies jaws for the last 2/3 years. [u]Promethean P5110C[/u] - This combo is great for home or band practise. I've used it a lot in gigs when space or assembly time was premium. Great for accoustig gigs. [u]Trace Elliot Boxer 15[/u] - My first amp, has no real worl value so i keep it. I've used it a few times at home when i've left the Promethean in the practise room or in the van. [u]Vox AC1RV Bass[/u] - It's on its way to me as i write this. I bought it to use with the Uke Bass as it runs on batteries and seems the best portable solution for those busking sessions. It has the added drum machine, should be handy. [b]Pedals:[/b] [u]Korg Pitchblack / MXR Octave Deluxe / Darkglass B3K / 3Leaf GR / EBS Multicomp[/u] - This is my main pedalboard, use all the fx here and there. Self explanatory and justifiable. [u]Driver (Fulltone Bass Drive Mosfet Clone)[/u] - Had this custom made for me, i drawn the graphics. Sounds good but not as good as the B3K. I keep it because it was personalized for and by me. Don't use it, can't justify keeping it appart from the sentimental aspect. [u]Zoom B3[/u] - Got this as a backup for the pedalboard for it's simplicity, great sound, easy to setup and the DI that alows me to go straight in to the mixer in jams or reharsals/gigs that i don't take my amp. I think it's all, thinking about it i don't forsee a buy or a sale in the close future (except, maybe, the BB1000S... maybe...) and i'm pretty happy with my current setup. Am i GAS free? Don't be ridiculous, we all know that's a myth! Cheers

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1455811849' post='2982661'] The OP asked for comments and all you lot can do is criticise mine. Exercise some of those outraged brain cells and give the guy some "better" suggestions. [/quote] OK! @OP: Your existing 115W valve amp in a 15" cab will be perfectly fine for those venues if: 1 - The cab has suficient excursion and is sensitive enough to handle your amp at about half-wack; 2 - Your drummer/guitarrist doesn't like to play harder/louder than everybody else; If 1 and/or 2 doesn't apply then start by upgrading the cab to something with more SPL and maybe more than one driver. EDIT: If you keep the current rig but need sound at ear level then invest in a stand to lift your cab to the desired height.

ahhhhh! beaten to it...

[quote name='The Twickerman' timestamp='1455801674' post='2982546'] (...) [b] my 115W Valve head/15" speaker combination[/b] (...) [/quote] [quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1455805105' post='2982592'] (...) [b]I'd classify what you have as a practice amp.[/b] (...) [/quote] Can you even hear anything... at all?

I only have 5 pedals but when i got my PSU with daisychain from "effectpowersupplies.com" i went for a 3A one so i never have any problems if i decide to add more stompboxes to the collection. I often had to power up guitarrist pedals that went out of batteries, never had a problem and the PSU is still going strong since about 2007. 500mA is very little for a pedalboard, i can remember a couple of pedals that take all those amps on its own.

I found a few amps that did this also. A design feature, not a flaw.

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1455642715' post='2981044'] You're right it will show, unless you get someone to fix it who knows what they're doing. A luthier is a guy who's specialist field is wood work and a bit of spraying and finishing. You need a guy who's job is finishing, not someone who specialises in the skills of replacing a truss rod. [/quote] I don't think it will be an invisible fix unless all the laquer is removed and resprayed. The joins between old and new laquer will be visible if you know what and where to look for.

Can't look at the picture... i just feel the urge to attack the head with a hacksaw... and also relocate the rubber feet... Oh look! It's time for my meds!

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1455364770' post='2978415'] There's not really a drop in replacement for the nut of any bass. You'll be able to find ones with the right dimensions to fit the slot pretty easily, but you'll need to cut the string slots down to the optimum depth based on the height of the first fret and radius. If that's something you can do yourself then ignore this! If it's not you are going to need to take it to a tech or luthier, who would have no trouble crafting a brand new nut for you so you don't need to buy one before taking the bass in. [/quote] I see your point there but from what i know about EBMM's QC and attention to detail i would really believe that a replacement nut from the manufacturer would have a big probability of fitting snug and perfect without needing some file work. I wouldn't say the same for most manufacturers though.

I had an accident a few years back where my kb player tipped my bass and it hit a cymbal nicking a piece of laquer on the neck (below 3rd fret so very anoying to play and have it rubbing in my hand). I took it to a luthier who filled it with laquer in many very fine layers until it reached the desired height - mind that TRB high gloss laquer finish is very, very thick - the end result, after some polishing was very satisfactory. If i didn't knew what happened i probably wouldn't find it and the slight difference in feel/look i would give it to wood grain. My advise is to get in touch with someone who can do this job properly, a good luthier who does good finishes or somebody who knows his way around wood and finishing. Then let the owner of the combo know about the accident and tell him that it's been taken care and properly fixed. It'll never look as perfect as new to a very picky/OCDish eye, so it would be impossible to hide this from anyone.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1454923450' post='2974101'] I was not talking about the normal Neutrik jacks, which have a cup for the earth that takes solder very well. This particular type, which I don't think they made for very long and I believe may have been the right angled type, had a solid lump of zinc for the earth connection, which made it very difficult to get a quality joint. It does sound like the conductive plastic shield could be the cause of the problem though. [/quote] Are you talking about this type? I used to struggle to solder the earth pin to that plate, the solder wouldn't catck the metal plate so i started drilling a small hole with a dremel on it and the solder catches it better now.

DBX160A, that'll do the trick. Not a pedal though...

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1455486588' post='2979589'] If the owner is famous then a multitude of sins can be overlooked! I was thinking the other day about Billy Sheehan's "Wife" bass. Undoubtedly some Mr Big/Talas/Vai/Winery Dogs fan would pay top dollar if The Wife ever went on the market. If Billy hadn't made it big and needed to pay the bills then The Wife would probably have an Ebay Weird and Wonderful thread in its own right. Get this, the owner has hacked in an EB-0 pickup at the end of the neck and wired it to a second output jack, which is mounted on a snapped off black pickguard chunk which is mounted down with washers and drywall screws. [/quote] Don't forget the missing strap pin! "Perfectly balanced bass to be played sitting down"

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1455277745' post='2977684'] People don't mind neck gaps on the pre-CBS stuff..... [/quote] But that's mojo, it's what makes them sound special, surely that's worth the extra thousands...

[quote name='Bass-Thing' timestamp='1455374201' post='2978565'] No. It's just that after several years of being let down by brands like Ampeg, Trace Elliot, Hartke (not their cabs) and Ashdown, I've finally found brilliant amps and cabs that are ridiculously inexpensive. [/quote] Let down by TE???!!! Did you drop it on your foot? Now, seriously, i want to hear the story. How did it break down?

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1455578240' post='2980484'] I'm sure it was discussed at length earlier, but there's no internal bracing. Was it decided it was not necessary? I did read the whole thread, honest! It was a while ago though.... [/quote] These plans are for a 18mm ply construction so i guess there's no need for bracing with this thickness.