Ghost_Bass

How were you stacking the cabs? Were you creating a 4x10"-type arrangement? Phase issues could be involved there and the improvement when disconnecting one cab would be very noticeable.

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1448316318' post='2914484'] Great - that's what I was thinking of doing. Glad it works [/quote] Just be sure to screw it to the sides of the electronics cavity and not the "bottom" or you'll risck having a screw comming out of the front of your bass if it's too long

My prefered gear is TRB5PII with GB Shuttle 9.2 and Barefaced Super12T but considering a desert island and the lack of people to complaint about the noise i would take the rack with Alembic pre and 1kW poweramp instead! (i'm guessing this thread is only about our own gear only or else i would take a pair of Barefaced Big Twins instead )

A lot of people will say i'm mad for doing this, but it works. I don't boil strings or use alcohol, tried it and the results weren't as good as this: I spray the strings with grease remover (the ones your mother/wife uses on the stove) and leave it to act for 10 min. Then i wash the strings with soap and water and use a scrub/sponge a couple of times on it. Dry them very carefully and they're new again for two or three more weeks. I've done this a few times when i find myself without a fresh set of strings to go on the bass and a new set won't arrive in time for an upcoming gig. It works but you need to be a bit carefull and use rubber gloves because the product is corrosive if you leave on your skin for some time. This is the product:

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1447495691' post='2908015'] I'd have thought that if you are going to do it before attaching the top, copper tape should be simple to fit. It's certainly a lot easier to connect to the earth side of the wiring than conductive paint, which you will have to do for the screening to be effective. [/quote] On my bass i used a terminal with a screw on a ground wire and carefully screwed it on the wood inside the cavity. It made perfect contact with the conductive paint and no solder required.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1448282016' post='2914079'] I play drums and the bass drum has to be heard and respected, not just a muddy thump, it's a harmonic instrument as well as rhythmic; for thump I would buy a P bass, much cheaper... [/quote] Touché!

With Prosteels i can get twang for the first 3 weeks, sometimes a month, trying my first Flexsteels set to see how much longer it lasts. I change strings every couple of months. I play bass and the bass has to be heard and respected, not just a muddy thump, it's a harmonic instrument as well as rithmic, for thump i would buy a kick drum, much cheaper...

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1448033621' post='2912554'] Do you know, I hadn't even read your signature until you pointed that out! So ... how's the treatment coming along? Off the medication yet? [/quote] Unfortunately i'm a cronic case, no cure for me as i first bought the the pedals and the Zoom afterwards...

[quote name='The-Ox' timestamp='1448041553' post='2912668'] i thought as much ok thanks guys! given the technique i was using, I'd only use it sparingly, as you need to get a good hold of the strings and pinch them, would be a lot of effort to learn how to transfer between strings quickly. I just wanted to know if I would damage it [/quote] Playing the strings in the "normal" fingerstyle but very hard will produce a similar effect/sound. It will be easier to move between strings.

[quote name='Nicko' timestamp='1448040751' post='2912656'] The technique is different but isn't that part of the slap sound? Can't see that it would damage anything. [/quote] Slapping also wears the frets faster.

Do you want this tone all the time? I would advise you to get a set o D'Addario Flexsteels or Prosteels, very piano-like sound. As for harming the bass, if you dont push them to the point you snap the neck then the only damage it will do to your bass is premature fret wear.

Couldn't be more impressed with RCF, the ART312III tops have 450W (if i'm not mistaken) and will outperform any Mackies. they're cheap on Thomann also (recently bought one for something like 500€.

Why don't you send smaller (lighter) boxes?

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1448032452' post='2912526'] Then you realise that people like Zoom make all-in-one devices that do everything you want, all in one neat little box. With an LCD panel and everything. So you buy that too. But then you find that the Zoom's tuner is a bit wibbly-wobbly so you keep the Zoom but add your dedicated pedal tuner. Actually, the Zoom's Octaver ain't that great, so then you add your dedicated Octaver too. Then ... then .. then .. And finally, you start looking for a larger pedal board. [/quote] Are you making fun of me because of my signature???

Ok, making things easier again with no little magic stomp boxes of pure joy. Can you can just get a preamp (either rack or pedal, whatever), place it on top of your rig and link it to the return socket of the amp? I think that the fx return jack doesn't defeat the amp's preamp but it sits right after it. you could have both basses plugged in at the same time and i guess it wouldn't harm the amp (of course i don't know wich amp you own or how it works so take this with a tea spoon of salt).

[quote name='razze06' timestamp='1448031691' post='2912518'] Yes, that is another option, and a cheap one at that. I rarely use pedals, so I am a little concerned about using two for this purpose. You know, more things can can break, be forgotten, need batteries etc.I might try this option at next practice session, and see how that works. My favourite solution would be a two-channel amp, so I won't have to stomp on anything, but that's a little dear [/quote] I understand. The minute you get the preamp and the AB then you'll realize that you also need a tuner to tune the bass and mute between songs, then you'll also need a compressor to make things sound nicer, them maybe an octaver jsut for that part mid song that needs an extra something, then... By this time you're hooked and beyond salvation, you're a pedal junkie!

Could you get away with using a preamp pedal EQ'd for the DB? You would have it off with electric and turn it on when switching to DB. It would be the cheapest solution IMO. EDIT: To make things easier also get an A-B pedal so that you don't need to mess around with jacks when changing basses.

Remove the 12" driver, pic up a camera or phone and take some pics of the inside, all wires and connections, then post them here. We'll get you sorted quickly.

It will be tough to find one. I sold the one i had to someone here on BC, maybe you get lucky. I found that i didn't need the extra cab, the combo is just fine on its own. Mind that the P110C has a neo driver as the combo has a ceramic one. A good alternative to the promethean would be the Ashdown Mi10 (also had one and it did well for its size and price).

[quote name='ambient' timestamp='1447164574' post='2905418'] Normal long scale D'Addario's fit my 35" Modulus. [/quote] The thicker part of the Low B misses my TRB's nut by a couple of mm with Long Scale strings, maybe it's the individual saddle bridge that gives it that extra lenght...

I have a graphite aerosol can at home. I bought it from an electronics store. I used it to re-paint my Smith's electronic chamber (the original conductive paint sunk in to the wood and it was buzzing a bit). Worked a treat!

This has been discussed here http://basschat.co.uk/topic/250955-akai-deep-impact-to-be-reissuedredeveloped/ and i've been following the TB thread ever since. It looks like the real deal and i'll be buying one when released if funds allow. I was hoping for something a bit cheaper, 400€ is a lot for an fx unit...

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1447179375' post='2905615'] OK, just to clarify it's not through-body strung, it's through-bridge. [/quote] My TRB is also through-bridge strung and it's a 35" neck. I can't string it with Long Scale strings because the thickest wound around the low-B won't reach the nut, missing it by a couple of mm. I also wouldn't advise using a Super Long set on a 34" neck bass because the that wound on the low-B will wrap around the tuner and make it more hard to keep the bass in tune. So, summing it up, IME: 34" scale bass - Long strings 35" scale bass - Super Long strings In case of through-body stringing or other system is allways best to ask D'Addario directly or check their info on the site. They have a very complete information about their strings, tension charts, gauges, timbre, and i believe also lenghts. Don't know any other manufacturer that gives this info - it's another reason why i keep using them exclusively.

I use a EBS Multicomp, set in multi-band mode and with internal trim pots affecting more the high freqs, in the end of my pedal chain. This comp helps me take care of those inicial loud pops when using other fx like wah or slapping. It doesn't ruin my dynamics and a big part of "my" sound is done with right hand technique. I can play loud or quiet but it never gets out of control or harsh to the ears. It also doesn't squash my sound. Tried the Boss (CS-3?) and i couldn't make it work for me. So, for me, it's a big yes to compression, when used to achieve what i want/need. edit: forgot to add, my comp is allways on

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1447113491' post='2905064'] I use D'Addarios on my Variax guitar. I'm thinking of putting a set on my Sei 6 (well, somebody mentioned flamboyant somewhere upthread). For a 35" scale through-bridge strung 6, would I need the normal or the super long scale EPS strings? And are they taper-wound at the bridge end? [/quote] Super Long strings for a 35" neck. When i fit them on my TRB the amount of cut off is about the extra you need for through-body stringing. Don't know if they're Taper-wound but i would think not.