Ghost_Bass

The Glock is cleaner preamp, more hi-fi and very versatile. The Monique has a "more classic" tone, don't know for sure if it's inspired by the Fender tone stack but it has that vibe on it's sound, not as versatile as the Glock but what it does is better than anything else. You should see if you can try it. Poweramps do all the diference, the main thing i've noticed is that the low-end can be either compressed or enhanced (sometimes to boominess) by the poweramp alone. Crown does great poweramps that work great with bass, the class-H KMT i'm using is also a great option, can't talk about the new generation class-D with DSP because i haven't tried one yet.

Yep, i think he hasn't made the best pub for his invention. It's by far one of the best ideas anybody had regarding bass building in the last decades. He could have registerd the patent and licensed it to the big dogs, i'm sure that a few would have picked this up (not Fender obviously). This design has a few years but i see that a big lot of people still don't know it exists.

[quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1436376670' post='2817695'] So like a Big Twin 2 but quieter and more complicated? Seriously though, if I could make a single driver that would do really clean full-range sound with tons of output, great dispersion, great transient response, then we wouldn't even make 2-way cabs. We made 3-way cabs in the past because we couldn't get a driver that could go high enough whilst going low enough. Actually it looks like the new cab will be 2.5-way! [/quote] I'm talking about having a real "PA-like" subwoofer there, not a bass cab that goes lower than the competition.

It should be impossible to gig. would anybody feel confortable having a fretboard and strings on the back of you normal basse's neck? Try it, flip your bass around and rub your hand across the FB... IMHO this is top candidate for "2015´s world stupidest idea" In fact, this issue (fretted/fretless) has already been solved in a more classy way: [url="https://youtu.be/MViWP44Abt8"]https://youtu.be/MViWP44Abt8[/url] [url="https://youtu.be/ft3t0YjfXEc"]https://youtu.be/ft3t0YjfXEc[/url] By this guy: [url="https://www.facebook.com/MikeyGuitars?hc_location=ufi"]https://www.facebook.com/MikeyGuitars[/url]

What about this: A 3-way cab, 2 (let's say 12") drivers and a tweeter. Bottom driver low-passed and designed as a sub-woofer. The top part angled to get to our ears with mids going in to the driver and highs in the tweeter, designed as a full-range cab. The cab would be divided internally to separate the sub-woofer from the "top". Something like this: [attachment=195904:Drawing2-Model.jpg] It would need a more complicated x-over but we're talking Behemoth here, aren't we? Soundwise, it would sound like a PA but in a single box (with wheels), nice full-range sound with extended low-end. What do you think Alex?

How about a 2-channel mini-mixer going in to a powered PA full-range cab, on the floor, like a monitor? Are you DI'ing your instruments to a PA or just relying on your backline to fill the room?

You can drop the tuner, the B3 has a good tuner and if you press the switch for a little longer it will mute the signal for silent tuning. Don't know what you're using the GE for but the B3 also has it. Read the manual and learn how it works (it's features, patch editing, setting total and global parameters, etc.). I'm using my B3 on it's own when i need to have a simpler and smaller setup and it replaces 5 pedals i have on the other board

The Fender i'm sure it's SS (class-D and the cab is Neo) but i can't say the same about the H&K from what i can remember, maybe it has a valve pre.

Correct me if i'm wrong but you still have you speed limit signs in MPH over there in UK, isn't it? So there's still a mix of metric and imperial systems.

Had a guitar player who used a Fender Jazzmaster amp and cab: Incredibly small (1x12"), very light (the cab is lighter than the Barefaced Midget T i had at that time) and stupidly loud (250W @ 2ohms - yes, the cab was also 2 ohms!!! - it filled a theatre room by itself on a soundcheck). I also know guys using a Hughes & Kettner similar config rig and also sounds immense! So the lightweight gear is already available for guitar players but i think they're more tradicional when it comes to gear and won't take changes/technology advances as easilly as bass players.

Going simply by what i've been reading here i would say that the TB500 will in fact be louder than the STL6.0. I have the STL9.2 and though it says it has 900W the reality is that it only has a 500W power amp inside (the same as the Aguilar TH500) so i would guess that the stated 600W from the 6.0 will also be overated and more close to 300-350W (like the TH350). Take your amp to a shop who has a TB500 in stock and try them side by side. I bet you'll have more power on the TB but you'll also get more grunt, it won't be as clean as the GB. I went the oposite way from you. I had a Mesa Walkabout a few years ago and sacrificed it's beautifull (clean) tone and went for the 9.2 because i couldn't get to the volume i needed without having the valves distorting the sound.

Use a normal XLR cable, you can get it in any music store. Between the decent but cheap i think you'll be fine with a Planet Waves. If you want quality get something with good cable (klotz/cordial/etc.) and Neutrik plugs.

Well, i still read comments with people refering to inches (and lbs) on the web so that post was just to be safe.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1435911860' post='2813459'] May well give this a go myself, Aguilar Tonehammer 500 into Barefaced Super 12T for lows, Aguilar Tonehammer 350 into Barefaced Super 12T for highs. Linking the 500 to both Super 12Ts was just overkill with my regular settings, swamped the sound, but using one amp for each on bigger gigs/stages, hmmmmm, nice thought. [/quote] Aren´t your S12T's 4 ohm each? You plugged both to the TH500, will it go down to 2 ohms? Or have you used a series cable to make it an 8 ohm load? Edit: I can't see myself needing more than a single S12T pushed by the GB STL9.2 (same power stage as yout TH500), all the volume i'll ever need and then some more!

One more idea, could you release the plans with measurements in milimeters also? Would be great for EU builders

If you have a Sandberg then the preamp is Glockenklang (or Sandberg, designed by/inspired by Glock). That preamp is very flat, it doesn't pump the gain, so with flat EQ you get the same aoutput as you get if you turn the bass to passive. You can try it, put everything flat and see the diferences between passive and active mode, it's incredibly close to nothing. I love Glock preamps because of this feature. If you use your Sandberg without boosting too much EQ i'm sure it will handle very well without the need to push in the pad in the amp

[quote name='Dan Dare' timestamp='1435874172' post='2813330'] Have been through a number of heads trying to recreate the sound I used to get from my Jazz through a valve Bassman 135 and 2x15. Currently have an EBS HD350 with 1x15 and 2x10 SVT cabs. Still too modern/mid prominent (find that to be the case with most stuff I try). An old BBE pre with a low powered Peavey power amp into my 2x10 gets the sound I want, but I lose it when I try to scale it up. Any suggestions? Cheers. [/quote] SHAMELESS PLUG ALERT!!! It's currently withdrawn from the market until September but the rack i had for sale with a Alembic F1-X (fender tone stack design) and a 1000W class-H KMT power amp looks like it could be the answer to your question. The sound i get from it fits your requirements and you have more than enough power to play anywhere. If you don't find one that fits you until then drop me a line when i get it back for sale Sorry for the pub!

[quote name='72deluxe' timestamp='1435930078' post='2813730'] [url="http://www.eminence.com/2010/11/providing-the-proper-amount-of-headroom/"]http://www.eminence....nt-of-headroom/[/url] According to that informative link, the rule in pro audio is to provide at least twice as much amplifier power as the speaker's continuous power rating. Amplifier clipping is what blows speakers apparently! This is complete news to me because I always thought you should UNDERPOWER the amp to avoid overdriving the cabinets but in truth it is better to use a more powerful amp, just not turn it up full. [/quote] It's not only amp clipping, too much low freqs will make the cones travell more that they're designed to and eventually blow them, too much highs and dirt pedals can easilly blow tweeters.

I recon, in theory, anyone can kill his cab even with a lower powered amp (example: a 300W amp in a 500W cab), it's just a case of pushing it too far with over-EQ on lower freqs and/or the volume maxed out. The reverse is also true, you can gig a high power amp with a lower powered cab for years as long as you listen to it and don't exceed its limits. Don't worry and enjoy your new amp

Don't be affraid to dismantle your (future) bass and bring it in a suitcase. I find that most people tend to worry too much about truss rod tension on a unstringed neck. Wood has a fairly amount of resistance and won't snap or bend overnight. When you remove the neck of the bass, if you can notice a very considerable amount of back bow (you need to be using very high gauge stings for that IMO) just slowly reduce the truss tension. There will probably be an angry mob forming by now to come and get me but i never did that "1/4 turn and overnight to rest" thing. I've setup basses that required more than 2 full turns on the rod and not a single neck snapped - just be sure to turn the key very slowly and take your time with it.

What sound are you looking for? Active or passive? Pickup config? String spacing? There's a lot of really nice 5'ers on the market in that price range, i'm inclined to suggest Yamaha, from personal taste, but i don't know if their sound would suit you... we need more info.

I used to use a big Trace rig (300W GP12 head + 2x10"H + 1x15) back in the day and started my way through the class-D path in order to downsize the weight and save me from spine issues. Now i have two rigs and used them acording to the gig, the Promethean P5110 combo and a Shuttle 9.2 + BF Super12T, they're all class-D amps and the speaker on the ibanez is ceramic while the speaker on the BF is Neo. I also have a rack with a Alembic F1X and a KMT 1000W class-H poweramp for outdoor gigs. No mather what rig i use (or what bass i use for that mather) i allways tend to find and use my personal sound. It helps that i like a fairly flat EQ. The only real diferences i find when comparing diferent types of amps is a bit of more low-end available on the AB/H amps but IMHO it isn't nearly enough to make me trade the weight and portability of a class-D/Neo rig. ( STL9.2+S12T = 20.5kg / TE rig = ~55kg...) I hope manufacturers keep investing in Class-D/DSP/Neo research in order to give us more sound quality with less weight.

+1 for Schaller over here. Never failed on me but it's not perfect, it has it's issues. Had a bass where the strap button occasionally come loose so i filled the body with a wodden dowel to make the screw fit better (edited to add that this is really not an issue with the locking system but the screw that came with it was too thin for that bass). Also, since i have a minotaur strap wich is thicker the nut that secures the strap to the locking mechanism tens to come loose after a while, i need to find a way to make it more stable, maybe using a nut with some sort of grip system. Considering all issues i had with schaller i still prefer to use them over the dunlop/warwick system where the simple fail on that tiny clip/spring can make the whole mechanism come loose. With schaller there's two types of security and if the clip/spring fails the fit mechanism still supports the bass.