Ghost_Bass

Wise choice

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1435580461' post='2810170'] It will be worth it in the end, Luke, I promise you. I'll be posting some more info later today and I believe Phil is now getting the drawings sorted. [/quote] Will it be an option for adding a tweeter to the design and a suggested x-over (or at least a suggested x-over point)? Looking forward to this. I think i'll have a go at building one for the rehearsall space.

I'm sold. I'll order a couple of FlexSteels set on my next order. They're 10€ more than the ProSteels but if the really last 3-4 months then they'll end up cheaper. I only get 2 months of bright pop from the Pros (they'll last longer if i need, i only need to keep turning up the piezo on my bass to keep the top end but that feel of new strings is another story ).

Congratulations Nice lightweight rig with a great sound. BTW, give me a shout if you decide to sell your AG500SC, allways wanted to try one of those,

The Ninja amp and 1x12" cab looks like a powerfull mini-rig but all that green hurts my eyes...

You can ship it with the luggage but you'll have to be sure it's well stored and inside a flightcase, with some silica gel bags inside to help with the humidity. The luggage compartment isn't climatised like the rest of the aeroplain. Can't say for sure the price of that extra supplement.

I only see two options here, option 1 or option 5. You don't want to take the Warwick with you because it's uncomfortable and i don't see a point in paying the fee to fly a Fender or a Lakland to the USA (you can get a decent Fender over there in any pawn shop for not much money). So you need to ask yourself, is the AGC so good that justifies paying for its ticket? Another thought, remember that the money you spend taking one bass over there can be seen as a discount on buying a bass over there

[quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1435329958' post='2807806'] I'm 99% certain that what you've experienced is subconscious user bias. At lower levels you won't hear any difference if the 4 and 8 versions are essentially identical. It's placebo effect. [/quote] Sorry but no, it's not placebo. At gig levels you can notice that the 4ohm cab "breathes" more. Mind you that this may come from the lower impedance on the amp and not from the cab itself. I'm not saying that a 4ohm cab is "louder" than a similar 8ohm one, just that there's more headroom at hand using [u]the same amp[/u] with a 4ohm cab

[quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1435319755' post='2807628'] Which 4 and 8 ohm cabs have you compared? [/quote] More that i can name, and i'm not takling about BF in particular (only played a MidgetT, Super12T and Big Twin, so, not comparable). I've had and tried a lot of cabs in the past and the general ideia i got from them is that at 4ohms i can get more clean headroom from the amp at lower volume. You know as well as i (even better than me) that if you have two identical cabs, one at 8ohm and another at 4ohms the drivers won't be quite identical and the sensitivity of the cabs will also be diferent. I find that these diferences were more noticeable when using class-D amps where the bass had to be turned up a notch when running at 8ohms to give more "weight" to the low end. I know, the physics say one thing, but my ears hear another I still prefer using a class-D amp with a Neo cab though

Found that on a Maison bass i have, the back screws are longer as well as the neck heel, that's the justification i can find for having two lenghts of screws.

B3K just because i have one and i love it so much i don't feel the need to try anything else. It has the drive sound i've allways wanted.

[quote name='bigjohn' timestamp='1435249356' post='2806999'] Does anyone that wants a 4Ohm cab have any experience of feeling underpowered with higher impedance cabs? I can't tell the difference between say 350W @ 8Ohm and 500W @ 4Ohm. In fact I've struggled to tell the difference between 4Ohm and 16Ohm cabs using the same amp. [/quote] For me it's not the lack of power that's an issue, it's the added headroom that i get when i run a 4ohm cab. The low end gains a new dimention. This is very noticeable when using digital amps. IMO and IME, obviously

[quote name='skidder652003' timestamp='1435062260' post='2805003'] come on this has been done to death! there's only one place to go really [url="http://bassic-bits.co.uk"]http://bassic-bits.co.uk[/url] our very own obbm [/quote] [quote name='landwomble' timestamp='1435085805' post='2805374'] I just get it from CPC or Maplin. Maplin's Van Damme instrument cable is very good and cheap, too: [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/van-damme-pro-grade-classic-xke-instrument-cable-black-priced-per-metre-n98jt"]http://www.maplin.co...per-metre-n98jt[/url] [/quote] Hehehe, you forgot that part where on my sig it's stated my country I just want to buy a nice cable to make my own patch leads, the plugs will definitely be Neutrik. I have no problem with OBBM or any other cable builder/brand but i will allways trust more on my own soldered wires because i'll know whats inside the plug Cheers

What do you think of this wire? Been looking at Neutrik and Klotz pages and found what seems like a good combination: [attachment=194859:Sem Título.png] link: http://shop.klotz-ais.com/cgi-bin/quickorder/lshop.cgi?action=showdetail&wkid=1435056899-5383&ls=e&nc=&rubnum=&artnum=IY104_&file=&gesamt_zeilen=&p8= And with some PX series Neutrik angled plugs: http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/plugs-and-jacks/px-series/ Looks like it could do the trick

My cables are all Neutrick/Klotz soldered by me (appar from one klotz funkmaster i bought a long time ago) and never missed a beat. I wen't for the George L's for the pedalboard due to their small size and huge reputation as a top quality cable. After this recent experience i don't want to use them anymore (or any other push-fit alternative), only strong, high quality and soldered cables.

[quote name='bassmachine2112' timestamp='1434877380' post='2803436'] Hiho ,might be as simple as get it off the floor [/quote] Yep, a big +1 to this, have just read this entire thread thinking about that and saw your comment in the end. could'n agree more. Raising the cab off the floor reduces floor coupling (sub-bass) and brings the sound closer to ear level wich makes it easier to hear at a lower volume setting without loosing that punchy feel. I allways use my cabs/combos raised, even my BF Super12T. IME it gives me a clear and defined sound at a very decent and comfortable volume for me and my bandmates. Try this Jenny and see how it goes.

[quote name='Skybone' timestamp='1434897704' post='2803666'] [color=#ff0000][size=6][b]Always remember to unplug the lead from the bass when you're finished playing, or else you will be changing batteries very frequently![/b][/size][/color] [/quote] [b]#1 Rule![/b] [quote name='Cameronj279' timestamp='1434484949' post='2800128'] Remember you can cut as well as boost. Spent years only ever using the EQ controls as boosts and recently had the revelation that cutting also works wonders! [color=#ff0000][size=6][b]Also take a spare 9v in your gig bag/case[/b][/size][/color] [/quote] [b]#2 Rule![/b] Keep this in mind and you'll be fine

I've been using George L's on my pedal board for the last 4 or 5 years. Recently, i was doing soundcheck at a gig and my sound cut off. I tracked the problem to my pedalboard and all seemed like it was the Korg Pitchblack malfunctioning. I did the gig with no FX and took the pedalboard home for a close inspection. I tried all my pedals individually outside of the pedalboard and all worked as they should. Then i started testing the George L's one by one and found one faulty cable with bad contact. I tested the rest of the cables and found another one that was cutting my signal a lot (almost to half). I redid all my cables with new wire and all function as they should but i lost my faith on this system and now i'm looking to get new cables, soldered and solid. My first idea is to buy Neutrik plugs and some Klotz cable (the same i'm using on the rest of my leads) and make my own cables but the Goerge L's were great due to their reduced size, witch made my pedalbord very compact. I'm writing this post to ask you what's new out there, with great quality and very reliable, with a compact size? I haven't looked into cables and plugs since i made my cables all those years ago. Let's say that money is no object for now and signal quality is king Cheers

[quote name='40hz' timestamp='1433710742' post='2793349'] I've used both, now I use Flexsteels exclusively. The best string I've ever used in 12 years of playing. Beautiful feel and tension with a real nice 'bounce' to the string. They have a crisp and bright, detailed sound and they last ages. [/quote] Hi 40Hz, i'm using exclusively Prosteels since they were released, just heard about the Flexsteels. Could you explain your post a bit more. I would like to know how much more crisp and bright they are when compared with the Prosteels and how many months of use you're getting out of them (my Prosteels are changed every two months because i like that new string piano-like sound). Cheers

I pick up the one more at hand. I mainly gig the TRB and when it gets home it usually stays inside it's case. When i'm going to practise something i usually take the Smith from the wall hanger just because it's there and it's easier to grab. My favourite is and will allways be the TRB though.

Sorry for the "ego" mode kicking in. This is a custom pedal made for me by a friend. It's a clone of the Fulltone Bassdrive Mosfet in a compact enclosure (it had a knob removed from the circuit (actually it's still there, as an interior trim pot). I designed and printed the layout. It looks and sounds awesome, IMO Unfortunately it's sitting at home, unused since i got my hands on the B3K but it's not going anywere.