Ghost_Bass

or maybe this: [quote] 1. As a general rule, the bass should be tuned using standard tuning or whatever tuning you normally use. Tune it now if you haven't already. 2. Determine the arc of the neck, as described in the previous section. 3. The neck should have a slight arc and the distance between the 7th through the 9th frets and the underside of the strings should be between .3mm and 1mm. 4. If the arc is greater than this, you need to tighten the truss-rod a quarter-turn clockwise and if the arc is less than this, you should loosen the truss-rod a quarter-turn counterclockwise. 5. Remember that most truss-rods work this way; however, in some cases to tighten them, you have to turn them counterclockwise and to loosen them, you have to turn them clockwise. Please read the instructions that came with your instrument very carefully. 6. Tune the instrument again to compensate for the changes you have made to the neck tension. 7. Test the arc again and if it still isn't within .3mm to 1mm, you will have to repeat the process as many times as necessary starting from step 4. 8. Remember that you should NEVER tighten or loosen the truss-rod by more than a quarter-turn at a time. You can even turn it as little as an eighth of a turn if you only need to make a small adjustment. 9. Once the arc has been adjusted, check the tuning again and try playing the instrument in all positions to make sure that it doesn't buzz. 10.If it doesn't, you may even be able to lower the strings a bit on the bridge. A half-turn of the saddle pins should do the trick. 11.Pay attention to where the instrument buzzes. If it does it at the first frets (Fig. 14), you should loosen the truss-rod a quarter-turn. If it does it at the last frets (Fig. 15), then you should tighten the truss-rod a quarter-turn. 12. The optimum point is between the place where the bass stops buzzing at the first frets and the place where it stops buzzing at the last ones. 13.If you can't make it stop buzzing, this means that the strings are too low and you will need to raise them at the bridge by giving each of the saddle pins a half-turn, as described in the section Adjusting the Height of the Strings here. You should readjust the height of the outer strings first and then adjust the height of the others using the correct curvature template (Fig. 4). 14.You will have to repeat this process of raising the strings on the bridge as many times as necessary until the bass doesn't buzz at any point along the neck. 15.If the neck buzzes randomly at certain frets, this means that the frets have worn out or have started to lift up and you will have to turn to a professional luthier to level them. [/quote] I've had a read through the guide and it seems that Jerzy doesn't use an actual measuring for string height to fretboard. and it makes sence because, from experience, each bass will have it's own sweet spot. He starts adjusting string height close to the desired using with the radious template and then adjust the neck bow. Then he sees if there's any fretbuzz and raise/lower the strings at the bridge. Repeat process until geting to the sweet spot immediatly after buzz stops. Sounds like a good way of doing it.

[quote][color=#ff0000]Place the capo at the first fret[/color] so that the strings are touching it. While you are sitting and holding your instrument as if you were going to play it,[color=#ff0000] hold the string down at the last fret[/color] with your right index finger and use a gauge to measure the [color=#ff0000]distance between the string (at) the 7th through the 9th frets. This distance should normally be between .3mm and 1mm[/color], depending on your instrument and playing style. This is not an exact science, but rather an Art and you will have to experiment a little in order to find the optimal distance that works for you.[/quote] This is from the guide, to measure the neck bow. Is this what you're looking for?

Yes, it seems like it.

Raising this from the 2nd page just to add a bit more info on the electronics. Yesterday i had on my workbench a OLP bass for a setup and intonation. It was 5 string, passive with 3 knobs. When i tried it i found that the first 2 knobs were in fact volume knobs for each coil of the pickup and the last knob was tone. Haven't opened it to look at the electrics because it wasn't mine and the owner wasn't there. You should see if that's the case with your Dimavery, best way to find out is to touch the pole pieces with a metalic bit and you'll hear the "pop" if that coil is open. Maybe that cap on your second pot could be related to crosstalk or phase issues between the two coils....

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1427314772' post='2728880'] Nope...absolutely love my Warwick neck. [/quote] "Neck bow on a $$$$ hand-build bass" and "W" usually come together but that doesn't make them bad basses, if you have the luck to get a good one.

[quote name='Black Coffee' timestamp='1427271898' post='2728011'] I was thinking fender... [/quote] I immediatly thought Warwick but then i saw it had 7 letters...

Just another thing. When using distortion the biggest concern is the tweeter (also mentioned earlier). I managed to burn one in my Super12T when i bought a Wren&Cuff TFR If the cab has tweeter turn it down a bit or cut highs on your EQ.

It will be dificult (of course not impossible) to kill a cab with the Shuttle 9.2. It says it has 900W but we all know that in reality those are only 500-digital-W. Also, like someone said earlier the design of the amp includes HPF and other dsp stuff. It doesn't have enough beef, IMO, to drive a common mid to top of the line cab to over-excursion with all controls set at 12'. As long as you don't go mental with the overdrive and if you don't EQ you amp to extremes (too much lows is the biggest danger) you'll be fine. The shuttle is a very clean and polite amp. BTW, i have one 9.2 and love it. I'm not a class-D/Neo hater

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1426792583' post='2722087'] Lots of people. Two subs cause problems - one sub does the job because low end at sub frequencies is non-directional, i.e. you can't tell where it's coming from, so you don't need two subs - you get your stereo from the tops. [/quote] [quote name='Bankai' timestamp='1426794823' post='2722122'] Having a sub on either side of the stage will nearly always result in a worse sound out front in smaller venues. Phase mashing and all that. One single decent sub will give much better results. [/quote] [quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1426846702' post='2722551'] Agree, lots do and I think it is valid if all you want to do is add a bit of depth. Put it anywhere, as bass will go everywhere. Perfect scenario for a average sized pub for when the tops get run a bit too hard with kick and keys..?? [/quote] Naaa, sorry guys. I know all the tech talk and the miths but this may not be quite exactly as the theory says, from my own personal experience. First, using only one sub, in order for it to be balanced with the tops output it has to be loud, and i mean loud, and that will be very incovinient for whoever is standing next to it. Two subs can be used a lot lower and give more comfort to the band. Second, unfortunetly not all venues have a suitable space for bands, as example i can say we use to play in a local irish pub that's pretty much a corridor and the band plays facing the narrower side, on the center. If the pub gets too crowded the lows end up being drowned on one side if there's only one sub running on the other side. Third, who plays on a bar/pub that's big enough to have phase canceling problems? Never had that happening on a gig anywhere. This is all IMO and IME. I may be wrong but it's been working for me, and yes, i used PA's with 1 sub + 2 tops in the past and allways had problems with either lack or too much lows depending on the rooms. Cheers

Who uses just one sub with two tops? I never figured out why people do that and companies sell that kind of setup... I don't want anything less than a pair of each cab for my band's PA. We're currently using a pair of RCF ART-312A pole mounted on a pair of dB Technologies Sub15. Just one sub is bad for a pub band, where is it going to go? On the middle is the better place but it sits in front of the stage and there's no room on the pub for people to walk or stand. Goes to one side but it will be drowning the musicians near it with lows... one at each side will be able to be used at lower volume and make the stage and venue sound more balanced. IMO, of course EDIT: and one at each side occupy the same stage realestate if the top is mounted on it.

I can´t see a point for having two tone controls except for mimicking the SR 2-EQ control plate. A nice single .100uf cap would give you all the tone you'll need, from dub to clank.

Looks like a good solution but I'll keep using the Schaller strap locks.

BTW, what do those controls do? from the pic looks like volume and passive tone but what about the other one?

You have both coils working, can't say for sure from the pics if in series or paralel, the two "missing" wires on the vol pot are curled together so they are making contact.

Just a bit of more wood for the fire. When i use my Alembic F1-X with the Super12T i EQ it with Bass:2/10 Mid:10/10 High:2/10 and NO, the mids aren't barky at all Of course this has a classic fender tone stack design.

Well, the first part of your problem is easily solved by going to the app store and downloading the google chrome browser (free). Can't help about the string height, i do my setups without measurements, i found that each bass has it's own sweet spot to have the strings as low as i use them (really low action) without buzz.

I don't understand some people's scepticism towards 5-strings and the false assumption that it's harder to play a 5er. In fact it makes things a lot easier and a lot less travelling up and down the neck.

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1426255351' post='2716219'] [url="http://www.cortguitars.com/en/product/rithimic-v"][attachment=186289:RITHIMIC-V(1).png][/url] In the past, Jeff Berlin has said "I am strictly a 4 string player because I believe that more strings will not make me play better. I believe that whatever I can't play on a 4 string bass needs to be investigated by me." I'm glad Jeff has come over to my way of thinking....! [/quote] Why 4 strings? Why not just 3? Or 2?... Some people don't get it until they try it

Don't know thw model but i've seen this before. I think a friend of mine has one as part of his 2x10 + 1x15 trace stack. The tolex is in excelent condition for it's age. If you're looking to sell it i don't think you could go much higher than £100-120 considering it's condition. Have you checked to see if the previous owner of the house has forgoten about it in the moving and may want it back?

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1426244013' post='2716019'] I suspect you may be right... although other owners seem to be able to get a clean sound (or at least what sounds clean to them through their cabs). [/quote] Can you get someone local to you with another TH500 so you can compare both?

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1426239578' post='2715922'] (...) The problem with this community is that everybody sees the "EBS_freak" [b]handle[/b] in a Barefaced thread and assumes that there is slagging off... (...) [/quote] I saw what you did there! LOL Jokes aside, i'm i right to assume that there's no valve on the TH500? It could be the culprit. If it doesn't have a valve it may need to get checked by a tech, it shoudn't distort at all especially with the drive at 0.

I would say my bass goes through one battery per year but i change it before it goes dead every time i give it the good old spring cleaning. allways carry a backup on the gig bag just in case, the TRB hasn't got a passive mode, it's a 30 sec job replacing the battery so it's not a gig breaker issue. If yours is eating away batteries even unplugging when not in use then it's a issue with the bass. My first guess is the jack barrel, the battery clip may be stuck inside the jack and making permanent contact thus draining the battery even unplugged. A quick test with a multimeter will alow you to see if the bass is passing current unplugged. Cheers

Do you want three switches in one unit (boost - OD - Comp) or a single switch operated pedal? If you want separate switches then a Zoom B3 will do it on the cheap side or a Rodenberg pedal will also do it in the boutique side.