Ghost_Bass

Manual here: http://media.wix.com/ugd/c44a33_e71eafda4b83410cbfb778cb2c1bff2f.pdf Read it, the first pages are very well explanatory in how you should setup your gain and volume properly. I had a 1215 GP12 as my first proper bass combo. You'll find it hard to justify adding a second cab, it seems to never run out of power

Take it appart, wash every metal part that got dirty (urine attacks metal and causes premature rust). Regarding the cone you can gently apply a mild damp cloth just to moist the cone a bit (if it had already dried) and then fill it with raw rice and leave it over night. The rice will absorv the humidity. If after this the smell prevails then a bit of febreze and leaving it to air should take away the smell (don't squirt too much febreze so you don't saturate the cone).

[quote name='1970' timestamp='1421245085' post='2658871'] Every time I see a DI box I involuntarily shudder. Keep those things the hell away from me. [/quote] Why? I can't understand your fears. Maybe Dad is on to something... It's practicly the same thing as having a DI on the amp itself with the added plus that using it you won't get so much noise or loose signal from the preamp output if you need to run a long cable. I just don't know why Orange (and others) dont fit a DI on their amps.

My pedalboard isn't very big, it's a 5-pedal home-made board and pretty compact but for those times when i know i'll be playing in a tight space it still may become a problem so i ended buying a zoom B3. It's also very handy for practising at home and take to rehearsalls inside the gigbag with a couple of cables.

Best option is to use a DI (like a BSS AR-133 ie) to send balanced signal to the mixer but it will also work from the line out directly to a line input on the mixer.

B3K, used on a low drive setting, will do the trick brilliantly but i guess you'll end up loving the drive and be back here again for a boost pedal

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1421079952' post='2656909'] It is. How pointless. When these first showed on the markbass FB page last year I thought they were just going to be rebadged classic 300 amps. Now they are pretty much a LM3, with a worse preamp and a giant heavy case. 5kilo head inside a 10 kilo case. [/quote] What? No toroidal inside? Why? Why???

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1421074575' post='2656831'] The guitarist in my old band used to put a plate of wedding buffet food in his fender twin to eat while he was packing up. [/quote] Nothing better than a hot meal after a gig

Anybody knows if there's a way to use a Boss FV-50H as expression on the B3? It's a volume pedal but i've read online that some people can use it as expression on other units with a "Y" cable: [quote] [color=#333333][font=Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=3]Connect using a Y Cable to pedal input & output.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#333333][font=Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=3]TRS end of Y cable to G Pedal EXP input FV-50H IN --> Y-CABLE RING TS plug FV-50H OUT --> Y-CABLE TIP TS plug[/size][/font][/color] [/quote]

Similar to the HD-130 in looks but the 130 doesn't have the 5-band EQ

The amp is very similar to a Yamaha B100II both in preamp design and in size/weight. If the new MM/MB amp sounds any closer to this then it should be an excelent amp!

[quote name='Bassnut62' timestamp='1420817782' post='2653858'] I've got a GR1 too and despite the blend mix I think I heard that the GR2 is not as good as the GR1, possibly 3 Leaf Spencer was already trying to go more in Mutron direction with GR2 and it seems like maybe nobody can really capture the Mutron sound except Mike Beigel himself and he's started making them again as [url="http://www.mu-fx.com/store"]http://www.mu-fx.com/store[/url] [/quote] At the time i exchanged a few mails with Spencer and ended going for the GR1, he said that there were a few tweaks in tone on the newer model but the main reason i went for the GR1 was because of the bypass switch, the GR2 uses a buffered bypass (if i'm not mistaken) so that you can use the fx on the loop even with the envelope switched off. I'm really happy with my GR1 and i don't need to use other fx on the loop, i have a true-bypass only policy on my board to prevent accidents, so i'll keep mine for as long as it may work properly. I would like to try it against the GR2 though... maybe next time i'll grab one

[quote name='chrisanthony1211' timestamp='1420814967' post='2653803'] The blend option makes a big difference on the meatball, just so many sounds you can get from it. [/quote] Stop it!!! I'm feeling bad enough for not grabbing that GR2...

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1420741074' post='2652919'] I don't think I agree with that. The Wonderlove is a development of the GR2 circuit, basically the same with a few tweaks here and there, very much still on the Meatball side of things. The Proton is quite different from the Wonderlove and I wasn't a fan, although I own neither of them anymore as overall they both underwhelmed me. Would love to own a Meatball! [/quote] At one time i owned the GR1, the Proton, the Wonderlove and the MXR M82 (i think that there was actually also a AW-3 around). The Wonderlove has a quackier sound, the envelope is more errr "open". My thoughts were that the core sound was closer to the Proton and MXR when comparing to the GR. The WL is a great tool with lots of control but somebody will have to rip my GR from my cold dead hands before i part with it. The GR has a warmer tone (to my ears), the envelope is more "polite" and in my opinion that fits better a bass guitar. I don't like high pitch quacky sounds from an EF. My main regret is that i had to pass the oportunity to buy a GR2 from a friend of mine a few weeks ago, the blend option on these is a plus that i think it would work even better in my sound.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1420804488' post='2653582'] If you look this up on Talkbass, the guy who designed this amp says that changing the valves won't alter the sound much, due to the way it was designed. [/quote] It won't alter the core sound wich is flat and full of definition, it won't never be able to pump out old-school ampeg-type of sounds but some nicer valves will improve the timbre of the amp giving it more clarity or warmth (depending on the valves chosen). The diference won't be huge but it can really be heard and felt.

The Wonderlove is more Mutron'ish just like the Proton, the best aprox to a meatball is the GR1/2.

A friend replaced the stock Ruby 12AX7 on his STL-9.0 for a NOS RCA 12AX7 and says that the sound became indeed more warm. I replaced the Ruby in my previous 9.0 for a EHX 12AX7 and felt that the sound gained more definition. I just recieved a 9.2 on the mail today and once i get the chance i'll try the NOS RCA or maybe a NOS Jen Phillips just to see if there's any diference at all.

I've bought a Genz Benz Shuttle 9.2 from Mark. Great deal with excelent and quick communication. Amp arrived safely and well packed travelling from UK to Portugal. Would reccomend this great BC'er to anyone. Thank you Mark Marco

I bought one shortly after their release, tried it for a week and a gig and took it back to the store and replaced for another thing. I found the lows too muddy and the highs hissed like crazy. Great size/weight (fits in a standard laptop bag) and didn't had any problems with power output at gig volumes.

I don't know of any black driver 2x12 model but you have two options on the 4x10 that come to mind. Both are compromises though: Traveler 104: CL 104:

Thanks for getting in touch, unfortunetly the lack of "T" kills the deal but hopefully you'll find someone else to trade with. Good luck

Well... i have a Super12T with metal grille and would love to get a silver cloth model. If you don't find another way to solve your problem and want to go ahead with a trade PM me.