Ghost_Bass

less bass and more mids should solve this. when a bass sounds great soloed often won't sound properly with a band and vice versa. you need to tailor your amp's sound in order to suit you in the mix during the gig. let the soundman find that great tone for the FOH (you an help him with sugestions). for me it's all about the mids, i don't scoop them so i can hear all the notes during gig and i also don't go trouser-flapping on the bass control so i don't end up drowning myself and loosing definition. other times, like sugested, the problem lies with guitarrists or kick drums.

I always use my rig and i always go through PA. And i play mostly in pubs.

[quote name='bakerster135' timestamp='1395144226' post='2399093'] I have the TFR, love it. If I didn't have it, I would buy the COG Grand Tarkin. Even better, contact Tom from COG and have him build you exactly what you want, and it'll still probably work out cheaper than importing a TFR or buying a Duality. Have to say though, TFR full-gain into the B3K at half-blend half-gain is still one of the most incredible bass dirt sounds I have ever heard. I want to have a little joyful cry every time I play through them! ... [/quote] Oh! That's very mean of you... now i'm GASing for two pedals instead of just one!

Can't say between this two but i had a TFR and now i have a B3K and if i had known i'd kept the TFR so i can have both on my board. The TFR is the best fuzz i've heard (never heard the COG, mind) and the B3K does an incredible overdrive (also a very good fuzz in extreme settings). I'm now looking to get another TFR and i'll be watching this topic regarding the COG alternative.

Pulled this one from Geddys sales thread The D string machine head looks like it could be reversed but it would need some pliers work to be able to remove the tunnig peg... i think it's too much work considering that the E string machine head is not even original. I say get a new set and stick it in there

Can we see a pic of the back of the headstock please? Maybe that tuner can be put together the right way, just a mather of taking it appart and turning the parts around before mounting.

You need one of these:

[quote name='deepbass5' timestamp='1393279317' post='2378289'] Yep sorry you said it powered up smoothing Capacitor on the power supply board is a favourite. Most electronics are amazingly robust but if they use cheap capacitors a low voltage or spike the power supply usually will get it first. If you can get it in front of an electrician he could put a meter across the power supply to eleminate that. RCF may be able to tell you what the operating voltage is after the transformer and smoothing capacitors. the rectified DC voltage. At least you will know you do not have to delve into the amplifier cicuit board. I do have two ART 312-A here but they are fine after 6 years now. But worried that you think this is common. [/quote] Yep, still trying to figure this out. I had it on my bench and did not see any burnt components so i gave it a good clean with contact spray and a brush and it started to work fine for some time after i reassembled it but it failed again after a few minutes. I'm starting to think that i may need to replace the filter card, where the Lim circuit is installed. Here's where i've seen that it's a common failure: http://music-electronics-forum.com/t28333/ Cheers

For that price you can't go wrong! If you don't like it you can sell it to me for the same price

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1394452097' post='2391395'] What's an OBT? [/quote] "One Bass Thinghy"

[quote name='Merton' timestamp='1394454384' post='2391428'] It's a preamp valve. Very unlikely to fail I would have thought, unless it was faulty to begin with? [/quote] yep, my thoughts exactly. But we can't rule out a distraction moment where someone drops the amp. I think that mid-gig is very unlikely for it to fail.

If you need to replace the valve mid-gig mind that that task will take you some considerable time. There are a lot os screws if the way of the valve. Thing is, a valve could fail any time, just a knock would make it unuseable but they normally fade away with time, a lot of time. If you give proper maintenance to your amp and replace the valve regularly (each two years i would say...) it will never fail on you. If you are infortunate to see it fail during a gig then the best thing is to have a DI pedal at hand and send the DI to FOH and the line out to the FX return on the shuttle. It will be easier an a lot quicker to solve the problem.

I don't know you and your band but i would bet that without PA support a single cab will struggle to be heard on the back of the room. It's better to look for something bigger sounding (schroeder, barefaced, bergantino, etc.) if you're thinking about using it as a standalone. Maybe a second Rumble cab (1x12" for example) could handle those situations but still a wild guess.

Fender Rumble cabs (1x12" and 2x8") are only 250W RMS, don't mind the "programme" numbers, only the "continuous power" ratings. I had two 1x12" cabs in the past and i could get by using just one with a very quiet drummer, i guess the 2x8" cab will sound similar. Just don't expect to be able to use it without PA support, it won't be able to cut through the drum kit.

I had two regrets in my life when i missed two chances to buy a Japanese ATK 305. Fortunetly this weekend that was solved, no regrets now