Ghost_Bass

I may have misundertood your question but from what i read i believe that you wont be able to run two 4Ohm cabs from your XTI in the way you're thinking about doing it! Your poweramp only has two operation modes (from what i read on the manual) Stereo and Mono/Bridge. - In Stereo mode you connect one signal to each channel and get up to 800W@4Ohm or 1000W@2Ohm on each channel. Since you only have a single input feed (signal from your preamp) you'll only be able to use one input from he amp so the only way to hook up two 4Ohm cabs is to hook them (in paralel) to the same channel thus obtaining a max output of 1000W with a 2Ohm load. If you try to hook a cab to each output one of them will not work. - In Mono/Bridge mode you have one input going on the amp and output from both channels (i won't explain how bridge mode works to keep it simple for now) but the minimum load that the amp will take is 4Ohms so you'll only be able to hook up one of your cabs, IF YOU CONNECT BOTH CABS IN BRIDGE YOUR AMP MAY BURN!!! There is a simpler way to do what you're looking for but from the manual your amp doesn't seem to be able to do it: running the amp in Mono/Parallel mode would solve your problem and you could work with one input and two outputs on the amp and still use two 4ohm cabs. Unfortunetly the manual doesn't say the amp is capable of doing it. Cheers

Yep, just the pot needs replacing. For an original TE part these guys are your best bet (http://www.britishaudioservice.com/) but they're from US, maybe another BC'er could point you to a UK dealer. That's an easy fix if you're comfortable with a soldering iron but if you haven't done anything like this in the past then take it to a good tech instead.

Most of the times but i'm no electronic expert so i can't say how the preamp components will react to the sub-lows. Only thing i know is that in order for the amp to handle/pump out massive lows that comes at the expense of heat being generated and when things get too hot... well you know the rest

Does your amp run very hot?

I sold a Promethean P110C cab to Duncan. Very fast payment and excelent communication. It was a real pleasure dealing with him. I would reccomend dealing with this basschatter to anyone! Thanks for everything Duncan, enjoy the cab

Very cool, only thing i would change would be the pickup size, a humbucker that big could be mounted on the horizontal!

My ideal cab: 1. Full range - no mid scoop or mid bumps; 2. Extended range - high/mid range driver or/and tweeter is mandatory; 3. Good low-end extention - has to sound big but not muddy; 4. Transparent sounding - so that i know that the sound i hear from the cab is the same i'm feeding to FOH; 5. Front porting - rear ports don't sound the same and are a pain in the "a" when i have to setup against a wall; 6. Side/recessed handles - to avoid having to balance an amp on top of the handle; 7. Enough clearance from the drivers to the side pannels and enough depth on the baffle to alow installing a frame for a silver grill cloth; 8. Fairly inexpensive drivers but ones that are common on the market and not hard to replace/recone; 9. Light weight and easy to pickup/carry; As for designs everybody will have their favourite so, in the long run, would be great if we could end up with: - 8 Ohm designs: 1x10" 1x12" 1x15" 2x10" 2x12" 4x10" - 4 Ohm designs: 2x10" 2x12" 2x15" 4x10" 6x10" Maybe this could be too much....

[quote name='Merton' timestamp='1389357111' post='2333203'] Nice! You need to change your username now though [/quote] I thought the same thing when i read on another topic that you were going to part with the TB/S12 stack. Just don't choose Micro-CL for the new username Great looking rig, i never got on with ampeg's sound but for me they are the prettiest pieces of gear out there.

This reminds me of what happened with the Genz Benz Shuttles, they too have a clipping light comming on too soon. When talking to GB i was told that that is normal, not bad for the amp, just an indication of the functioning of the preamp. I kept playing my 9.0 for the rest of the time i had it with me and never looked back at that light, it never failed on me. Reading that this is happening with the TH500 isn't strange for me, both the TH500 and the STL9.0 share some components and maybe something else.

[quote name='bassman7755' timestamp='1389220156' post='2331653'] Or ... use a flat wide bandwidth speaker cab, use the amps EQ to emulate the sound of a "bass" speaker and assume the DI through PA will sound in the right ball park. [/quote] That's basicly my approach on this, i always go to FOH no mather where my band is playing. I mounted my rig to be as flat (~ PA like) as i could and do all my sound tailoring on the bass and pedalboard. My amp (Thunderfunk) EQ is used only to compensate the room, the DI goes to FOH in PRE, the pedals are linked between the bass and the amp and they're all true bypass with clean blend control. When using the rack (F-1X+power amp) i want the F1X's EQ to stand out so i use the DI on POST. Doing things like this i find i can get from the PA a sound that's very close to the one i'm hearing from my backline but there will allways be diferences (even with the mic'ed guitar amps). If OP wants the sound he's hearing from his rig to go to FOH then he just needs to invest in a very high quality mic. I don't see the need to have a mixer on stage, if he's happy with the sound comming out of the cab i believe that a "very" good mic sending only that single channel to FOH will do the trick. If a clean bass signal is needed for any reason on the mix then simply run a clean DI box straight from the bass and link it to a second channel on the main mixer (they usually have a few extra channels on their mixers) and let the technician do the mix. If the OP shows up on stage with a mixer under his arm i don't think that will leave the technician very happy with him... and what will come next? The drummer remembers that he doesn't like the way they mix their drums so he also gets a desk to mix his drums the way he likes? FOH engineers are there for a reason and most of the time they know how to do their job, just talk to them first and figure out together the best way to achieve the desired result that makes everyone happy! Cheers

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1389186310' post='2331007'] Disconnecting a tweeter can harm an amp, if the tweeter uses a crossover. Most piezo tweeters don't, but one must be sure of that before cutting wires.[/quote] It can? How? Will the x-over present a diferent impedance to the amp? [quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1389186310' post='2331007'] LPads don't work with most piezos.[/quote] MB has the NY121 cab that is made to be the best extention cab for the CMD, from looking at it (never owned or opened one) they seem to have a very similar tweeter, if not the exact same one. They are fitted with an L-Pad so i guess it's possible to fit one on the CMD, isn't it?

Disconecting the tweeter won't harm the amp, you can either leave the driver going through the x-over or connect it directly to the amp output if you find you need a bit of highs on the sound. Personally, i would invest in replacing the tweeter for one i like better and add a L-Pad to be able to defeat the tweeter or attenuate it to a more pleasant mix. It would be more expensive but i believe the final result would pay off. I would start with just the L-Pad first, who knows if lowering the existing tweeter a little won't be suficient (and less expensive).

Sorry for the shameless plug but i'm parting with my Promethean's P110C extention cab, 1x10", ~9kg, 50x30x30cm, 250W, 8ohm. PM me if you're interested.

A recone for a Eminence Delta 15 is a bit over £30 here: [url="http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=EMIDELTAPRO15AR"]http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=EMIDELTAPRO15AR[/url] If you find somebody that can do the job at a fair price it might be worth the shot!

Are you sure that a recone would be more expensive? The alternative is to search the sales/ebay and see if you can source a decent 15" speaker (EV for example) selling cheap. - I had a EVM15L replacing the cone of my Trace elliot combo (it came like that out of the store), didn't sound bad but i ended finding a celestion original driver and replaced it. couldn't hear any difference but it did seem a bit better sounding cab... maybe just a placebo effect. If it's just for practise and the cab isn't very valuable then i, personally, wouldn't bother with getting a properly tuned driver/port thing going. I would just worry about getting enough clean volume and EQ the rest in or out. But if any BCer would appear with some advise on good matched drivers for that cab i would start looking for one of those instead.

[quote name='dan670844' timestamp='1387458838' post='2312172'] Hey Marco, I would stick to a 12AX7, you need a certain amount of gain to get a FMV tonestack cooking. This tone stack is lifted straight out of a Fender showman. In my experience if you use a lower gain tube in this type, the bandwidth starts to narrow and you loose the high and lows and the sensitivity of controls. If you are looking for a cleaner sound, I would work on the level of the signal you are putting in. A slight bit of harmonic distortion and compression is what its all about. I would have a look at the Gold Lion reissue 12AX7 its a great valve in this application as its very warm and musical the bass definition is superb and its dead quiet. Karltone is the best place to get these from. A new valve takes a while possibly up to 10 hrs to sound its best. I usually run some music through my amps for a while to burn the tubes in. If yo get any trouble getting hold of one I transit back from Porto to London quite a bit!! I live in Foz!! [/quote] Hi Dan, thanks for the tips and the kind offer (my drummer lives in Porto so we never know if i wont take up on your offer sometime). My basses have a hot output, the Ken Smith is the hottest, i think that i may not loose much with the 5751 but i've been thinking and i'm now inclined to go a diferent route on this. I've been offered a JJ Tesla 5751 by Gareth over here on BC, it's a modern, common and cheap valve so i think i'll take that one and do a bit of AB comparisson at home with the 12ax7 EHX. Then i'll get a proper man's NOS valve of the kind i found working best for my sound. Cheers

Thanks for the info Bren, yep from what i've been reading those brands are on the top 5 (Telefunken and Mullard complete the list).

The Mi10 will also work well. You can always use a tiny USB mixer and use a 2.1 PC speaker system - sometimes i can't bother myself to hook up the gear and i just plug the bass directly in to my mixer.

[quote name='Acebassmusic' timestamp='1387443867' post='2311918'] Hi, I've got an Alembic F1X and swapped out the standard tube for a RCA 5751 and have used a GE 5751 as well. Both tubes run at approx 70% gain of the typical 12AX7 so you wont get the same volume or ability to add "distortion" out of them. I wasn't looking for volume or distortion when I chose the 5751's but a smoother sound with lots of clarity. I did a bit of research (geekery!) and found quite a bit of info both on here and Talkbass etc. When I get home I will try and remember to edit my post with some of the links if I can find them. Regarding fitting - I have had no problems fitting any replacement tubes into the carrier / sleeve. [/quote] This is exactly the kind of reply i'm looking for. This is the result i'm looking for, i'm running the f1x through a 1kW (bridged at 4ohms) poweramp and sending it to the S12T, i'm not worried about the volume drop of the 5751, in fact i think it will help me get the volume pot past 1 or 2/10 and gain a bit more room for manoeuvre. I forgot to take a pic after fitting the EHX 12AX7 but that one is really too fat for the sleeve. I've read posts on the Alembic forum, by Mica, saying that there are many valves that doesn't fit the sleeve and they (Alembic) have a lot of tubes on storage that are too big for their preamps. This is the reason why i'm concerned about size. Your post is a bit more reassuring though [quote name='obbm' timestamp='1387448676' post='2311984'] I used an NOS Philips 5751 in both my F1X and a BMAX-T. I got it from Colomor Valves in Billinghurst in Sussex, UK. They sell directly but also on Ebay. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5751-JAN-PHILIPS-ECG-ECC83-12AX7-NEW-TUBE-VALVE-1-PC-/390151251894?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item5ad6d3a7b6"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5ad6d3a7b6[/url] [/quote] Thanks for the link, i'll check it out. [quote name='6v6' timestamp='1387448721' post='2311986'] IMHO you are over thinking this. You need one replacement 12AX7 tube, there are thousands out there new and NOS, any of which will work OK in your preamp, buy a few and see which ones you like. Also FWIW, I've got good real-world advice from Watford Valves in the past, not just "tech talk", and the F1-X contains probably the absolute most commonly used preamp circuit of all time (it's a completely standard Fender preamp stage), so I'd be amazed if they don't have experience of testing with it. [/quote] You're right and i understand that. I may be overthinking surely but in my idea it would be easier for me to try a couple of valves that have been road tested by BC members and have a good opinion of them instead of just keep buying and trying a whole bunch of them. I'm more inclined for the 5751 because i'm not looking for saturation, only big clean headroom BTW, here's a pic of the valve that came with the preamp: Any idea of what this could be? No markings on it. Is there any way to even identify the type of valve (12AX7 ou other)? Cheers

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1387390331' post='2311473'] Can you email them? I'd also email Alembic and ask them. [/quote] Sure i can but Alembic doesen't support any specific valves for their f1x, they stick whatever they can source that meets their criteria. As to watford valves i'm sure they know a lot about valves but is the guy who's going to answer me a bass player? And does he have a f1x? I'm looking for opinins from, BCers who in fact own or owned one of these and tried diferent valves on them, I think this firs person experience it will be more helpfull than an e-mail full of (very usefull) tech talk. Cheers

I'm in Portugal, a phone call to UK isn't very cheap and if you say it will be a long conversation then even worse! The EHX i had at home is a bit too fat for my f1x. The only way i could manage to fit it was to take out the moving bit from the metal sleeve. Its the interior (upper) one shown in this pic i stole from the web: The tip of my valve is now showing, it's the glass part that's painted silver.