Ghost_Bass

[quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1387377497' post='2311268'] I feel like I'm in Groundhog Day. Your cab was built by by a "man-in-a-shed" five years ago. I see it was up for sale for £315. It cost £375 new FIVE YEARS AGO. Is that bad value? If you want to talk about the build quality with respect to current prices, look at a current model! The current models which are far from being built by "a-man-in-a-shed". Look at the current grills, the finish, the corners, the handles, everything. However, we still attach the badges with silicone - unless yours is one of the very first which went out without badges and a badge and epoxy kit followed for those first customers to attach. We don't use silicone because it's cheap or easy, in fact it's a pain to work with - double-sided tape, as used by many manufacturers, would be cheaper and easier. We use silicone because it sticks really well, stops rattles and helps to damp any grill movement and will keep the badge on there for a very long time. [/quote] Lots of good points here. I can understand Alex's frustration when reading some posts still pointing to flaws on old models that have been addressed on the new ones. We can't expect that Alex offers a full recall of his entire production everytime he upgrades something! Even then, from what i've been reading on BC, he's always available to offer the upgrades to his customers, sometimes for free, sometimes at a cost. I see this as good after sales service.

Not sure this is the right place to post this (if not i ask a moderator to please move it to the right place). I recently bought a F-1X and it's valve (still the original one, after 18 years) isn't at it's best, it has lost too much output when i compare it with a EHX 12AX7 i have at home. I'v been doing some research and found this very interesting topic: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/122331-the-humble-12ax7-vs-the-lesser-used-5751/page__hl__alembic%20f1x%20valve"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/122331-the-humble-12ax7-vs-the-lesser-used-5751/page__hl__alembic%20f1x%20valve[/url] It convinced myself (after reading obbm's post) to get a NOS 5751 valve but my question is: Wich one? I'm not fully aware of the valve market and on top of that the F-1X has a metal sleeve for the valve that doesn't alow room for just any valve to fit in, they can't be too "fat". I'm looking for some advise from BC'ers as to places to buy good valves and good brands. Also F-1X owners who had replaced their valves and wich they ended up using. If any BC member has some spare valves and is willing to ship i'll be more than happy to buy one. One other thing, at this time let's say that price isn't an object for a very good NOS 5751 valve, of course i'm not going to spend £100 on one but i don't mind paying a premium for a very nice thing. All help will be most welcome, cheers Marco

All barrel jacks fail, eventualy. They're not as easy for bending the contact like on a open jack. I've replaced a few on a lot of different basses. [quote name='icastle' timestamp='1387315903' post='2310707'] I got through a few barrel jacks on my SR505 when I first owned it. As the problem is with some manufacturers making plugs with tips that have been 'tweaked' to ensure a good contact, the final solution was dead simple. I replaced the barrel jack with a Neutriks one and replaced any jacks which weren't Neutriks branded, with Neutriks ones. That was about 6 years ago and it's still working perfectly. [/quote] Wich Neutrick Female Jack did you apply on your bass? Those with the locking system or do they have a barrel jack for direct replacement of the "standard" ones?

At the risk of being accused of MB-hater i may say i dislike their cabs a fair bit. They work great with their own amps and not very much more (this, of course, depends on personal sound preferences). For me they have something going on the low-mid/mid range that makes them sound "boxy". With a MB head connected they seem to bring out the best in the amp and the set sounds very decent, sometimes good, to my ears. I won't buy one though, they're not bad gear but just not for me.

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1387293993' post='2310367'] Naaa, if we're talking about low end on a single 1x12" cab then i think that the discussion should end with the Aguilar DB112, IMO [/quote][/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Ok, let me clarify this now that i have a bit more time before somebody makes a wrong assumption:[/font][/size] [color=#444444][font=Calibri, sans-serif][size=4] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]From a big lot of 1x12" (2-way designs only) cabs i had the chance to own/try (Aguilar, Eden, EBS, Fender, Genz Benz, Barefaced, Markbass, Bergantino, and some more i can't remember now) i never heard a low-end so deep as in the DB112 (the Eden got very close).[/font][/size][/size][/font][/color] [color=#444444][font=Calibri, sans-serif][size=4] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Of course this doesn't mean that that cab was the best of them all, quite the opposite actually, that's why i sold it. It had a huge mid scoop, i found myself not hearing my bass on stage, only feeling it. The shape and weight of that cab was also a big factor that made me sell it. Not easy to grab, heavy as hell and odd to place on stage.[/font][/size][/size][/font][/color] [color=#444444][font=Calibri, sans-serif][size=4] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]The DB112 is a great cab to have at home or maybe even for recording, great sound on it's own but in a band mix it gets completely lost IMO and IME, doesn't cut through. (The Eden cut a bit better but it was also a bit too scooped for my taste)[/font][/size][/size][/font][/color] [color=#444444][font=Calibri, sans-serif][size=4] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]My reply to MM20 was based solely on low-end extention.[/font][/size][/size][/font][/color] [color=#444444][font=Calibri, sans-serif][size=4] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Cheers[/font][/size][/size][/font][/color]

[quote name='Musicman20' timestamp='1387282553' post='2310129'] I'm sure the BB2 could get you more full and open low end, with it having a woofer dealing specifically with the lows. The TKS 12/6 is one of the designs that has the 12 handling the low end, with the 6 handling the mids upwards, (that is my basic understanding anyway). The low end on the 12/6 is just incredible...although you probably need to use a 5 string to appreciate it. The Berg HT112ER would have been good for you. [/quote] Naaa, if we're talking about low end on a single 1x12" cab then i think that the discussion should end with the Aguilar DB112, IMO

Well... back to the topic! This is my experience. i had a Midget T and the cab was great sounding, defined, small, light and loud but i found myself lacking a bit of low-end. It had a good low-mid but it lacked a bit of kick. I ended up upgrading it to a Super12T and now i have that bottom punch i was lacking and even more volume on tap if i ever need. It's still light, clear and easy to transport. If the OP wants to retain a good bottom end upgrading to a BF cab i would sugest that a Big Twin 2 should also be considered. You can take advantage of Barefaced return policy and if the BB2 doesn't pump enough lows then the BT2 should be next in line for a trial (not a compact) IMO. I never heard or tried a BB or a BB2 so i can't comment on their sound and/or low-end response. Cheers

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1386876168' post='2305892'] Funnily enough I prefer the prolines to the neoline EBS cabs... Anyway, you wont upset me about criticising my gear. Ive done enough varied gigs to know what works for me and thats cool. If people dont like my gear Im not bothered but Id always take my own gear after years of refinement than use anything else. Im yet to find anything that I prefer. Just for interest, heres an extract from my pm... Similarly, despite my fan boy name, the EBS 1x10 and 1x12 are quite possibly the shittest bass cabinets ever made. I'm big enough to admit that. [/quote] This was never about criticising YOUR gear. It was a simple example, using a brand that you happen to know closely, to show that diferent people have diferent tastes and diferent POV about gear. cheers

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1386871181' post='2305785'] I wonder if Happy Jack would be so kind to repeat what I said about the EBS 1x10 and 1x12 cabs in our PM... [/quote] You're free to do it, like i said, i only used the "EBS" example from your nick and my personal experience with gear. I never said on my post that you prefered the Neos over BF. Hope you're not too upset with my post. Cheers

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1386870797' post='2305776'] Yes, that looks better. Couldn't you have used Velcro rather than the screws? [/quote] Yes but the cloth was attached to a very thin mdf framee, if i stuck it with velcro i was affraid i might break of fold it in two if i tried to remove it. There wasn't much space to fit a thicker frame and keep the cloth flush with the sides.

BTW, the rattle never bothered me because i used the handles to tilt those cabs. When the midget arrived i sold both cabs because, AB'ing both i found a brand new midrange world that was missing on the Neos. They were light, loud but i personally found the BF to be clearer. It's just my personal taste. EDIT: In all fairness, i also didn't liked the look of the BF'ed grill so i ended up doing this to it: my Neos grill was black

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1386869266' post='2305748'] So what is it with you and feet? [/quote] With ME? Absolutely nothing, i never worried about that, things like this happen when moving gear in and out of venues. Never complainted to any maker. Now leave me out of this discussion and let me get back to reading my Calzedonia catalog...

Ok, i've been silent trough lots of this Barefaced debates but i think it's time to leave you with MY opinion. FEET: Here's a list of all the gear i had with fallen feet (the ones i can remember from memory): - Trace Elliot GP12 combo (not cheap!) - Wharfedale Pro 2x15 PA cab (not very expensive) - Wharfedale Pro 1x15 PA cab ( " ) - Wharfedale Pro floor monitor ( " ) - Laney Floor monitor ( " ) - Promethean P110C (cheap) - RCF ART 312 PA top (very expensive) - DB Technologies SUB12 (not very expensive) - DB Technologies SUB15 ( " ) I had a Barefaced Midget on wich on of the foot worked out loose from time to time, i ended replacing the screw for a thicker one. My current Super12T is still free from foot problems. HANDLE: I have handles splitting on my Trace Elliot Boxer 15 and on the Laney floor monitor. I have friends who had to replace handles on their Marshall guitar amps and none of them complaint about it. Both the Midget i had and my S12T hadn't any problem with theirs but i'm aware that thw S12T's handle will start to plit eventually. When that happens i'll replace them with the new ones and won't complaint either. FOAM: Have you ever had a HK PA? Have you seen what happens to the foam they use to cover the front baffle??? In my rehearsall room we had two Turbosoung PA cabs also with a foam covered baffle and after a few rehearsalls we had to send the owner in to teka them out of there, the room was allways dirty with that sh*t. Alex released about 20 cabs with this type of padding before changing to something better, not a real issue with BF QC, is it? Now, here's my most honest opinion regarding BF cabs: Pros: - Light weigt and compact - Loud but still clear - Full range sound and good perception of all the notes (people mistake this for sound quality but you can't quantify sound quality, it's subjective to every single one of us. I like a full range sound, great mid presence but others like some scoop on the mids and more sub-bass extention... either you like it or not!) - Very rigid construction (no signs of weakness on any part of the wooden box) - Pre and After sales service (Alex never left a single e-mail from me unanswered, it may time a few days but he allways replied. people must understand that a single person can't build cabs and attend to facebook/e-mail/basschat at the same time) Cons: - looks (i don't like the looks of my cabs, don't like the painted finish, makes it look too DIY and the metal grill doesn't make it any better. This doesn't put me off from buying one because i give more importance to the sound and portability. When i get tired of looking at my cab i'll pick up the sander and strip the paint, cover the cab in tolex and add some sexy silver cloth and white binding. - handles (i would prefer something made of metal and recessed, Alex says it's difficult to do it but it's not impossible) - lack of tilting device for the smaller cabs - metal corners (they could be a bit prettier and more firm) I think, in all fairness Barefaced cabs aren't overpriced when compared with other manufacturers, or have worse QC, the drivers are expensive and so are the x-over componontes. Every brand has its issues over one thing or another. I don't want to start a fight here, this is just an example that i'm going to use inspired by the nickname of one of the BC'ers that are writting against BF (EBS_Freak). I had two EBS cabs, a Neoline 110 and a Neoline 112: (edit: i forgot to add that this three cabs are all on the same price bracket) The handle on them wasn't the best option, even though it was recessed and offered the cab tilt option it would rattle at high volumes. The corners were made of cheap plastic (one of them came broken inside the box) The grill is made of some kind of mesh that usually is used on construction sites. The cab was covered with carpet, the thing all cats love. The feet... er... they don't have feet! So here's a point for EBS! Sorry EBS_Freak, this is just an example, please understand, i could have used Stevie or Toasted but i don't know what gear they use. Nothing against you personally, ok? Summing it up, all gear is great for somebody and a big waste of money for others, everyone has his own personal taste and everyone has the right to his opinion, express it as you like but start thinking before writting, please. This issue is strating to grow a beard... Cheers

After sending KMT a e-mail regarding the LED and if i could fix it myself i got a reply from them in less than one hour saying that they would send me a new LED and i could replace it without loosing waranty (no need to send it back to germany). Great post sales service BTW, heres a video from our last bass bash where you can listen to some clips with the KMT and other amps: http://youtu.be/ASYRTVefz_Q Cheers

So here's my small review of this great little amp: The 1kW stated is real, not digital watts but real world analogic watts. It's light but deep, wont fit on the shallow racks. Looks and feels robust, metal chassis, well put together. The speakon speaker output for bridge mode is very helpfull. The amp has a three way switch (actually one for each channel) where you can choose between full-range, top ou sub operation. Soundwise it has a very big freq range, it was AB'ed next to a Crown Macrotech and a Glockenkand Bugati, the KMT showed a bigger sub bass extention (this can be good or not, depending of the type of sound you're looking for). The highs are all there. It's a true full-range amp, no freqs being scooped. On a live scenario, using with my Yamaha PB-1 preamp and through my S12T it delivered a solid low-end that brought a smile on the drummers face. I ended up feeling that my sound needed a bit more mids to cut better but that was due to my settings on the EQ and also to old strings. I guess i got carried away with that thick and punchy low-end during soundcheck and forgot all about the mids. I had one issue with it though, mid gig i noticed that the LED for the "ready" indicator stopped working but the amp was still working as it should. Will check with the manufacturer to see how they handle this. I reccomend it to anyone looking for a powerfull but small poweramp. It's 1U rack space, weights about 9kg and goes up to 1000W at 4ohms in bridge mode. Cheers

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1386143822' post='2296247'] In bridge mode you are connecting the output of the two amps together pushing in the opposite direction to each other with the speakers connected in between. If one were turned right up and the other not then you are directly applying an electrical potential across the output of the amp which is turned down, which in turn could cause it to fail or trip some of the protection circuitry depending upon the exact design of the amp. The problem with setting volumes half way is that the potentiometers in the volume controls may be a poor match and combined with any inaccuracies you introduce this may cause a mismatch. the afest thing is to turn both up full and put up with the high sensitivity or to buy a little mixer or pedal to cut the volume somewhere earlier in the chain such as in the fx loop. [/quote] Yep Phil, your reply makes perfect sense. I'm not thinking about opening up the amp and measure the pots but i know that there will always be a slight difference between the two amps, every pot has an error tolerance. The cool thing is that i know i can get very close with the values because the pots are step-by-step detented and i'm putting myself to the trouble of counting the amount of steps i turn down on each pot. I'm hoping that the difference in potential between both power amps will be minimal doing things like i'm doing and this will reduce the risk of harming the amp. Cheers

Check the valve, probably it's time to replace it.

I got a reply from the manufacturer today. Yes, both volume controls on this amp have to to be turned on when in bridge mode (it's a class-H poweramp, if that mathers). The manufacturer replied that i can, in fact, use the volume at 50% but i must set both volumes equal. Yesterday i was at a bass bash and the amp preformed very well, i'm leaving the volume set at about 75% and that is enough to give me some control over the PB-1's volume so i can run it low for home practise. With tho poweramp's volumes on full that rig only had two volumes: loud and louder Here's a pic of my current setup: and what it was up against on yesterday's bash

I could but then i had to cart one poweramp channel and not use it. And, believe me, there's a lot of difference in headroom I'm more than happy with the power available, i'm never going to use it flat out, but i do like the extra headroom. I just want to know if i'll damage the amp in any way if i run the bridge mode with the channel's volume at 50%

Hi, i just got a brand new poweramp to use with my Yamaha PB-1 preamp. It's a KMT DC5. I want to use this amp in bridge mode so it can feed 1kW to my Barefaced Super12T but here's the deal: On the poweramp manual it says that on bridge operation both channels A and B must have the volume knob on full. I'm usin a Ken Smith who has a very hot output and the Yamaha isn't much cooler. I'm finding myself setting the preamps volume at 1/10 because past that the volume is simply insane (insane in a good way but some venue owners might not think like me). I would like to know if there's a valid reason for having the poweramp's volume on full in bridge mode or if its safe to turn both of them to 50% so i can get more control through the preamps volume. Thanks in advance Marco

WOW! I think i'm going to start selling my used strings around here! I change strings every two or three months (and i use D'Addario Prosteels)!

Got one for my Super12T, fits like a glove and does a pretty good job. I have the simple cover, no straps or pockets and my cab is still as new.

Trigger pulled on the DC5! Review in a couple of weeks. Now is the perfect time for somebody to offer me a DPC1400X at a bargain price because... let's face it, this allways happens after you spent all your funds in something else... Cheers