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Ghost_Bass

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  1. Ghost_Bass
    Still here! Did i priced it too high? I don't think so...
  2. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1378980948' post='2207243'] I used to get this when too close to the amp - [/quote] This supports my opinion of a shielding, i also got that effect when playing too close to an amp or a cab, after shielding all hums went away.
  3. Ghost_Bass
    Well, i think i didn't explain myself properlly so here goes. If the hum stops when the hand touches the strings then the ground is connected to the bridge or it wouldn't make any difference at all. Hum can be caused by radio interference and a shielding not only acts as a shield for RF freqs but it also provides a better grounding to the bass. I maintain my solution of a copper shielding in order to solve this issue of the bass. I can be a ground wire working itself loose in the pot connections but with shielding all pots and jack automaticly ground themselfes to the copper on the back of the pickguard so this will make the same effect of unsoldering and resoldering all grounds (and that wouldn't solve RF interference issues...) Cheers
  4. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='bassix' timestamp='1378972465' post='2207096'] Thanks for the responses, to answer a few of the points, I did try moving the amp to another room and the hum was at the same level. With regards to the hum when touching the strings it stops, it is also almost entirely absent when the tone is rolled completely rolled off. I have looked at fixing the issue myself but I almost feel like I shouldn't have to on a bass that is essentially brand new. If the hum had been there when I bought it then I wouldn't have such an issue but there has been a clear change from when purchased to now. [/quote] P basses are very well known for this issue, it's not a faulty unit. Read my last post and get someone to shield your bass. Maybe the guys in the store could offer you that service but keep in mind that it can't be seen as part of waranty. the bass is like that out of the factory..
  5. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1378973925' post='2207119'] Sounds like your bridge/earth wire has come owft. 5 minute fix. [/quote] Nope! If the hum goes when he touches the strings the bridge ground must be making good contact. From what i read i would say that the problem is lack of shielding on the bass. Isolate the electronic cavity and the back of the pickguard with some copper foil and the humm will go away.
  6. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1378974509' post='2207142'] Hope you can get one soon I've heard many people rave about the quality & playability of Japanese built early Ibanez basses I know my Roadster was great [b]To my mind, Ibanez seem to produce the most consistently high quality results[/b] I've got to say it, but I don't think I've ever played a bad one Even their newer budget ranges compare favourably with other budget basses Good luck in your search [/quote] Thanks, i'll get one. It's just a mather of patience and wait. I've added the bold on your quote just to remind you not to forget about yamaha Cheers
  7. Ghost_Bass
    Bought a 4 string cheap bridge from ebay a few years back, felt cheap, screws worked loose and i could feel sharp edges with my hand (costed around £10). Flogged it as soon as i had the opportunity and bought a Gotoh 201 for around £30. Best decision i ever made!
  8. Ghost_Bass
    This one, it's a classic Fender retrofit: Or this one, on the cheap side: [url="http://www.sinewavemusic.co.uk/guitar-parts/bass/bass-bridge-5-string---chrome-85.html"]http://www.sinewavemusic.co.uk/guitar-parts/bass/bass-bridge-5-string---chrome-85.html[/url]
  9. Ghost_Bass
    But will the glue wipe off witouh a mark in the future if you decide to remove the thumb rest? I think you want a permanent fix that won't come out so why don't you just screw the thumb rest and stop worrying about it?
  10. Ghost_Bass
    Yes, pitchblack is true bypass. Tracks very well also!
  11. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='Ancient Mariner' timestamp='1378902377' post='2206241'] The Pitchblack does not draw current when switched off, even when left plugged in. I have one and leave a battery in it all the time, plugged in on a pedalboard. If occasionally I need to use it separately I just unplug it & use the battery that remains inside. This is different from almost every other pedal I have ever used, and as James observed, lesser pedals are powered up as long as they are plugged in. The Pitchblack is also an excellent tuner. [/quote] Well said sir!
  12. Ghost_Bass
    I always wanted an old japonese ATK305, i've almost snagged one on e-bay but missed the end of the auction... one day... one day!
  13. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='andydye' timestamp='1378897991' post='2206159'] Just to say that Marco's a top chap, I've done a couple of trades with him before and he's a first rate bc'er! [/quote] Thanks Andy, i also had a great experience dealing with you. This is the great thing about BC, i know people here are all real gentlemen. Never had any issue with a deal. Cheers
  14. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='richardd' timestamp='1378897545' post='2206148'] [i]You don't need the wife's Phone Marco the Pic's are great/ [/i] [/quote] Yeah but if they were taken with her iphone instead of my alcatel everything would show up much better, much much better!
  15. Ghost_Bass
    Hi, i have this lovely piece of kit for sale. I got it recently because i was looking for a passive P sound for a new project but i miss the low B too much. I'll keep using my Sandberg in passsive mode if needed until i find a nice 5 string P. This bass is all original and in excelent condition for its age, the serial says is from 2005/2006, i could allmost sell it as a near new condition minus some minor faults but i'll post it as "used and gigged a couple of times". The body is almost perfect, no scratches or buckle rash, only thing i can see on it is a small scratch on the back, near the strap pin. Other cosmetic issues are on top of the headstock (the normal thing) and on the chromed hardware, especially on the strap pins. There's also a scratch on the pickguard, on the lower horn. Neck is in excelent condition with no wear signs or fret damage. I serviced the bass before putting on sale, it has been cleaned (wood, hardware and electronics) and setup (low action as i'm a light player, buyer may need to raise the saddles a bit) and is strung with a set of almost new Ernie Ball Super Slinkys. The sound is what we expect from a classic 50's (this one is my second classic 50's P) it's puchy, warm and deep. Can't tell the weight for sure but it's light, i would say around the 4.5kg mark but i can get it in the scale this afternoon. The bass will be safely packed and shipped with tracking number and would take about a week to arive to destination (UK), it will be sent in a bag but if buyer chooses i can send it inside a hardcase for an extra £30. Here are the pics taken by a crapy phone camera (i'm compensating the lack of quality with quantity), i've tried to catch the flaws the best way possible in the light so believe me when i say that it looks a lot worse in the pics that it'll look on your hand: [url="https://plus.google.com/photos/106572846091439162015/albums/5922277930406615249"][/url] If anybody needs i think i can steal the missus iphone and get better pics of whatever you would like to see in detail. I'm looking to get[b] [s]£400 £370 shipped in bag[/s][/b][s] or [b]£430 £400 shipped in hardcase[/b] anywhere on UK/EU[/s]. Payment by paypal or bank transfer (i would prefer bank transfer because the fees are lower but paypal is fine). [color=#ff0000][size=5][b]SOLD, THANK YOU[/b][/size][/color] [color=#808080][b][i]EDIT: i'm not looking for trades at the moment, i really need the funds, but you can still offer me something as part-ex and i'll take it in to consideration. In most cases i will have to turn down, i would only accept a trade if it's something really special or something i can sell fast and get back that value plus the shipping costs.[/i][/b][/color] You can contact me by PM or mail at [b]...[/b] Thanks for looking, cheers Marco
  16. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1378832024' post='2205298'] (...) [b]1: Add some releif until the rattles go, but now the action is quite high around the middle of neck even with the saddles lowered right down and the action really low at the 12th fret.[/b] (...) [b]2: Pop a shim in the heel to tilt the neck back and let a bit of tension off the truss rod for a comprimise between the two, set the action at the 12th fret and enjoy a rattle free bass [/b] [/quote] I'm sorry to mess with your quote Pete but aren't number one and two virtually the same thing? The release you need to aplly to the shimmed neck in order to "enjoy a rattle free bass" is the same you need tp aplly to a unshimmed (does this work exist?) neck to get the same result. Only difference between both methods is to change the saddle height in oreder to achieve the same effect! Simple geometry! For all that is worth i want to add that the best (lowest) action i ever had was on my parted Singray5, factory setup, had a bit of fretbuzz but not audible through the amp, played like butter
  17. Ghost_Bass
    BRX's diagrams are perfect, there is only one last diagram missing, the case where you get a high action and simply lower the saddle to get a low and even action across the fretboard. I think the diagrams are self-explanatory and are the best way to explain how the shim works and they should be rearranged by priority in a step-by-step and sticked on the forum or wiky. Order of diagrams, IMO: 1- High action? Y - Check neck bow! 2- Still high action? Y - lower bridge saddles! 3- Reached bottom of saddle travel and high action? Y - apply shim But all of this is off-topic. The question is why is a shim needed on a factory bass? I can see the need for one when replacing the bridge for a taller one that will run out of travell before lowering the action enough but shouldn't the factories produce basses with a tolerance that fits around the middle of the traveling point of their own saddles without need for a shim? They already know the height of the bridge they are using and all the parts dimentions... Here's my own explanation to this, take it with a pinch of salt: The finish of a body affect the bridge's height (satin or gloss - gloss adds more thickness to the body raising the bridge a bit). Manufacturers could have two programs with different heights on the neck pocket to use with either gloss or satin finish but they ignore this in order to knock out more units per hour on their CNC's. They would have to select wich bodys were going to recieve thick finish and wich ones wouldn't... That's the real reason for factory applied shims, they want to sell more and faster. This could be acceptable on low cost basses but certainly not on the top ones! Cheers
  18. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1378814774' post='2204902'] Fender basses: in need of a design rethink. Apparently. [/quote] Well... we all know that. It would be better to get a Sadowsky, Allevo, Sandberg, etc and not worry about build issues...
  19. Ghost_Bass
    Flat neck, obscene low action, moderate light play - this is me and i get no fret buzz even when slapping or digging the strings (it may be fair to point out that when i need to attack the strings with more force i move my right hand closer to the bridge). I'm with BRX on this, tilting the neck with a shim doesn't make a straight(ish) neck's action different from the result you get by lowering the saddles. If we needed to shim a neck set with a slight curve on the truss rod then we couldn't have neckthrough basses or they had to be made of graphite...
  20. Ghost_Bass
    In my POV if a factory needs to shim its necks then they urgently need to rethink their design. A shim isn't part of a setup like a fret dress for example, a shim is a fix to a build flaw...
  21. Ghost_Bass
    I like my basses set with a very low action (i'm a light player). From all the basses i had i only ever had to shim Precision or Jazz basses. My TRB is neck through so a shim is impossible but it has an insanely low action without fretbuzz, my Ken Smith is bolt on but doesn't need a shim and on the low budget side my Sandberg is a P copy but i can get that action very low without buzz and no shims in sight...
  22. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1378746583' post='2204161'] Not sure if 'fond' is the right word, there. [/quote] That's my lack of english showing up, perhaps i should have used the word "bond" but i thought it could be a catalyst for somebody start making jokes about bondage... ...am i crossing the T&C's line?
  23. Ghost_Bass
    This Bass seems to be particularly fond to Metal...
  24. Ghost_Bass
    PM on the way
  25. Ghost_Bass
    [quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1378475675' post='2200887'] And what you are doing is trying to fix the symptoms and not the cause. Frequencies are resonating in the room because of sound reflections coming off the various surfaces combining with the direct sound from the speakers. These combinations happen in different amounts for different frequencies in different places in the room. Using EQ to fix them can only go so far and won't produce consistent results because the problem is caused by both the frequency of the waveform as well as the position of the listener in relation to the speaker and the reflective surfaces of the room. [/quote] True but what i was mainly saying about [i]cutting the ressonant freqs[/i] was, in a practical example, find and cut out the freq that is making the venue's walls/counter/glasses/vent grills/etc. vibrate and producing that annoying buzz!
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