Ghost_Bass

Pics! Pics and more pics! I'm in a similar ground, i have an old bass that was offered to me by my grandmother, it's a Maison TB bass (bass collection copy). It has a nice body but weak electronics. I've decided to not let it being unused, i'll change the nasty active J pickups for Bart humbuckers and add a Glockenkang preamp, then i'll remove the frets and treat myself with a nice fretless that i'll use (i don't want to sell the bass).

I see only one problem with this. The mixer has two outputs (stereo) and the amp only has one fx input. this will only affect the sound in the way that you'll be having your PA working in mono, appart from that you should be fine. Just keep an ear open for any signs of being feeding to much signal to the fx return socket, don't know the specs of it's maximum input signal.

Or move the power chord to the left and use the tuner on the top right corner on it's side, it could also fit.

I see enough space on that board to fit the Wah without getting rid of the BF-2. Just move the BF-2 to the top left corner of the board, bring both BBM and pitchblack to the left and add the wah. I bet the power extension will still fit

I once wired a PH bass (i know it's not a jazz) with the '62 stacked pot config. I added a resistor fron the hot wire of each tone knob (in this case would be volume) so that the tone caps won't mess with each other. After doing that there was no significant loss of anything when both pickups were on full. I allways wondered if such thing could also work in the VVT jazz setup to prevent the kind of thing you're experiencing... Anyone offering to test it? I currently don't own any J!

Another one for the Geddy. Add the East preamp and you'll get even more punch out of it.

[quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1374590380' post='2150583'] Prone to rattling as they get older - so functionally rather than aesthetically annoying - and they make the cab wider when carrying it which invites knuckle:doorframe interactions... [/quote] Valid points there. It's just a question of seeing wich would come cheaper in the long run. As for the knuckles i think the cab is very slim so in most doors we'll be safe.

This may be a dumb sugestion but what about selling the LB30 and the MiBass500 and use the money to fund a LB550 purchase? Are the prices too far appart? I'm not familiar with the Ashdown ranges and prices on this new units.

You can always change to one of these: These aren't recessed and won't disturbe the cab's functionality. I also think that the handles in my S12T aren't the most "user friendly" ones i've encountered on a cab but i'll stick with the stock ones simply because i also have a roqsolid cover and don't want to spend even more money having it modded.

I´m not particlarly too fond of the new one but i think it's a huge improvement regading the old one... i hate seeing that metal sheet on basses and on a thunderbird body it just looks silly to me.

When i bought my Ken Smith it made some static noises, checked the electronics and saw it had been sprayed with some kind of golden paint (probably something copper based). Went to KS forum and learned that Mr Smith started grounding/shielding his electronics with graphite but then changed to this golden stuff but a short time after moved back to graphite. He also sugested some people with the same issues than mine to use graphite on their basses for better results. I bought a can of graphite spray and applied it on the electronics and pickups cavities, in adition i added a ground wire from the preamp that was screwed to the wall of the cavity (making contact with the graphite). I made measurements with my multimeter, it showed some resistance if i measured from one end to the other of the cavity but in short distances (distance betweet pots) it was zero. I prefer using graphite, i find it simpler to apply with a good even coat but copper foil is also a great solution. [quote name='AngelLaHash' timestamp='1374265720' post='2147112'] But what i meant is when you needed help Ghost Bass come to help QUICK 40min quick.. with a suggestion ah ignore this, im greatful to Ghost Bass for there quick speed at trying to help any way [/quote] Thanks, i try to help when a can the same way i would like to be helped if i need

This will depend on the type of sound you're looking for so here's my 2p: For a J or P type bass i would look into Squier CV and VM models (there are some new 5 string versions comming soon) For a MM type i would look for a used Ibanez ATK305 For something more HiFi(ish) i think the best one i've tried was the Yamaha RBX375 There are a lot more options out there, i think the Yammy BB's also look very promissing.

There's an important lesson for all from this accident - When using gig bags [u]never[/u] zip to the side of the body, always [i]towards[/i] (is this how it's spelled?) the headstock! Doing this the bass only falls if the zip brakes. edited for spelling

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1373113839' post='2133847'] Good luck. You should really try a few. The main thing that makes up a player's opinion of an envelope filter is the envelope follower itself. Some are very quacky (Mu-Tron style), some are snappy (DOD style), some are very smooth (Lovetone Meatball style), and it really depends which suits your playing. My favourite is the Meatball, but that's a very complex pedal. The 3Leaf Groove Regulator is the most simplified Meatball clone on the market, but again I would go out and try a few different designs yourself - you might not like the envelope follower on a Meatball. [/quote] This! The first filter i bought was a 3Leaf GR1, since i had all the usual suspects and none of them could take the GR's place on the board. It's just the way the enveope sounds on the GR, now i can say for sure that my filter sound is the Meatball, everything based on a Mutron sounds to quacky on the highs for what i want to hear.

Anything from D'Addario as long as it's the "Super Long Scale" version of the set you're looking for. Example, i use Prosteels on my TRB (35") so i buy these: [url="http://www.daddario.com/DADProductDetail.Page?ActiveID=3769&productid=157&productname=EPS170_5SL_ProSteels_5_String_Bass__Light__45_130__Super_Long_Scale"]http://www.daddario.com/DADProductDetail.Page?ActiveID=3769&productid=157&productname=EPS170_5SL_ProSteels_5_String_Bass__Light__45_130__Super_Long_Scale[/url] edited for right link

Looks like i did the right thing getting the Promethean (again)

[quote name='NoirBass' timestamp='1348847950' post='1819116'] Just Collating the results of this thread, still want to hear what gems you lot are dying to try. [b]Human Gear Animato[/b] [b]Lovetone Meatball[/b] Owens Electronics Bass Bomb Driver [b]Akai Unibass Akai Deep Impact[/b] Boss Slow Gear Dod Meat Box Wampler Paisley Drive Moog Bass Murf Moog MF-101 Low pass filter Univox U-1095 Super-Fuzz Boss Wave processor Boss Poly Octave Strymon El Capistan Eventide Space BJFE Blueberry Bass Overdrive D*A*M* Ezekiel 25:17 Bass OD / Distortion [b]Musitronics Mu-Tron III[/b] Mu-Tron Phasor II Mu-Tron Octave Divider Original Ampeg Scramber Original A/DA Flanger Roland CE-1 Chorus Maestro Brassmaster Original Digitech Whammy [b]Digitech Bass Whammy[/b] Lovetone Ring Stinger [/quote] Marked the ones on my list but i guess i would probably try them and pass them on, i'm currently pleased and GAS-free on the stomp department

I've changed a few electronics in passive basses in the past and always could hear a difference. Normally on a P bass i would go for 500K pots from Alpha (not CTS so a bit cheaper but still with quality and good tolerance). I really can't say that the difference in output and sound quality comes from the pot change, in fact i would bet it has more to do with replacing wires with ones with real copper inside (plastic on the outside is fine by me) and using good caps. The only thing i could tell the difference ABing a 250k loom against a 500k loom (same kind of wire and cap in both looms) is that with the 500K you do get an extra bit of top end but the "core" sound remains unchanged. I like the extra top bite in "my sound" so most of the times i'll go for 500K pots (and .047 or even sometimes .100 caps = Funk to Reggae in a twist ).

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1373736781' post='2141141'] A BF Super Twelve. [/quote] [quote name='mildmanofrock' timestamp='1373757552' post='2141424'] +1. [/quote] +2

Done

Well... Thunderfunk TFB550B into a Barefaced Super12T but... i always use PA, plus both the drummer and guitard are very controlled! I can get away with the Promethean combo but the feel it's simply not the same

Had the Mackie version of this. I can say it's very good for self vocal monitoring. It can even take a guitar but with bass and low freqs in general it will struggle and the speaker will fart. I also used it as a monitor for home practise with a mp3 player and sounded very good.

Nope, i have a friend who ownes several W and a couple of MM so i don't think they would missmatch. I think a Streamer Stage II and a Stingray would be in different tonal fields so they could complement each other well, i woudn't say the same for a Thumb and a Stingray though.

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1373531505' post='2138585'] That's quite endearing, in a "slightly melted P bass" kind of way [/quote] More like a melted Ibby Blazer