Ghost_Bass

Well... if i didn't change for the better i would be stupid so i got to go for what i own. Up to now the Barefaced S12T is the best cab i've owned and heard and there isn't much left out there for me to try... ok, maybe the Barefaced Big Twin T could be a bit more full range but i found the S12T to be more suitable for a normal pub stage as the Big Twin will work better on the outdoors or in big rooms.

Never found a bad piece of gear from Yamaha, my TRB is flawless and sounds great, it's "the one i'll never sell". Regarding the OP i believe that they managed to figure out how to program CNC machines so that they can mass-build without compromising fit and finish... maybe they could do a workshop for a known company (name starts with a F...)

Here's the pic:

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1358971485' post='1947973'] That Darkglass B3K on minimum gain is a nice sound for overdrive. Sounds very GK-like to me. [/quote] That's exactly what i thought when i first saw this video and the reason why i'm talking about a drive pedal to sort this issue.

[quote name='Kobra11' timestamp='1359023712' post='1948514'] All my pedals were switched off, my bass/mid/treble are all around the 3 oclock position, u think i should dial them back a bit? [/quote] Yep, if they all are at three o'clock its IN THEORY the same as raising the gain on your signal, so you would get the same effect using the knobs at 12oclock and raising the gain a bit. I repeat, this is theoreticaly speaking. When using EQ the main thing to keep in mind is to have all settings balanced around the 0dB position: Read pages 7, 8 and 9 of this manual: [url="http://www.britishaudioservice.com/inst/SMX.PDF"]http://www.britishaudioservice.com/inst/SMX.PDF[/url] The chapter called "Using the Graphic Equalizer". I know you don't have a graph EQ on your amp but the main idea is the same

Unless these are 60 of the good old watts and capable of bringing ashame to any modern 200W amp!

[quote name='danthevan' timestamp='1358954284' post='1947569'] Doesn't look the hardest thing to open up and check the tightness of all the nuts yourself [/quote] As long as TC clearly states that no waranty will be void! If it was a easy fix with a screwdriver they could open an exception and release a repair guide so that users could do it by theirselfs or get a tech to sort it out without having to send the amps away for some time!

A distortion pedal on low settings won't dirty the sound. It will only give you a small boost on the higher freqs and add bite to the sound. A Sansamp or B3 are expensive as an ODB-3 can be had cheap for 40-50€ second hand. See the example with the B3K, the first setting he uses is light overdrive and that doesn't dirties the sound but gives it that extra punch you may lack on low volumes: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21ovdJJwjg0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21ovdJJwjg0[/url] You can get a similar effect with the Boss ODB-3 if you use it with the gain knob at minimum.

Guys, remember that wahit uses a GK and a crancked GK sound has nothing to do with SVT! My best bet would be a overdrive pedal to add a bit of grit to the sound. I would start with a cheap, used, Boss ODB-3 and escalade all the way up to the Darkglass B3K if needed. Note that the pedal should be used on low gain settings.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1358530519' post='1941016'] OK. That means that the way you make links to Facebook hosted images has changed for the better. There have certainly been times in the past when I've been confronted with what looks like a completely blank post here on Basschat, due to the fact that all the content came from Facebook. [/quote] This has been working with any image a find on the net. Another example, again just right-clicking on your avatar image, selecting properties and copying the address shown then pasting it on the "Image" option on the forum: I didn't even had to leave this page Edit: same steps but with Basschat's header on top of the page:

My guitar player had his Crybaby starting to develop some problems (no sound when on, just a squeek), after failing on two rehearsalls and a gig we bought a new pedal because i couldn't find anything wrong with the one he had. Using the new pedal for the first time he had the exact same fail... i went there to check if he hadn't plugged in the old one by mistake and realised that he simply had swapped the jacks when pluggin in, bass on OUT and amp on IN!!! We returned the new pedal and he hasn't had the problem happening again since. He had that pedal and was using it for a lot of years. This story is just to show you that sometimes the most basic problems happen even if we are used to using the gear for a very long time. Make sure you dismiss any external factors before putting the fault on the box, try diferent bass/amp/cables/power supply/battery/power socket/room and make sure everything's hooked up the right way Good luck on solving your problem quickly, cheers

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1358801652' post='1945407'] Is it, though? Really? I'm not convinced it is. I've played enough basses now to know that some set-neck basses have rubbish sustain and some bolt-ons with neck pocket gaps have sustain in abundance. Sure, if you pick up a bass and play it, and the sustain is rubbish, then by all means discount that instrument. But just looking at the neck pocket and deciding---without playing it---that it isn't going to sound good is (IMO) almost as silly as judging the pickups before you've plugged the thing in. [/quote] So... you're saying to ignore poor manufacture quality in favor of the sound? Ok... i can see a very, very small valid point in this one if you were buying second hand gear but what you're saying seems to me the same thing that entering a BMW stand and buying a new car with chipped paintwork and not bothering about it just because it works properly when you turn the key! All i tried to say in my posts was if i'm paying £1000 plus for a bass i demand that it comes with quality build and finish...

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1358779157' post='1944813'] Last time I went "serious" bass shopping I tried a whole load of Ibanez basses, some Laklands, and some Fenders (I bought a Yamaha, but thats another story). The Ibanez basses (three or four of them) had horrid setups and the Laklands were no better than the Fenders at the same price point. I'm sure that there are Fenders out there that have issues---they are mass produced instruments, after all---but I honestly think that some people are imagining QC faults that, well, aren't, and are just parroting things they've read on the internet. I'm not sure that a neck pocket gap is necessarily a bad thing. It [b]may[/b] be, but you should judge a bass by picking it up and playing it, not looking at it and thinking "oh, neck pocket gap, must be crap". I'm sure if you asked people to play these basses blind they wouldn't be aware of many of the supposed "flaws". [/quote] Very true. I've tried several basses in stores and not counting setups there was only one Fender that i couldn't flaw in terms of finish/cracking pots/neck pocket/... , it was a Japanese Geddy Lee, wonderfull bass, if i ever see myself in the need of having a J for live playing it will definetly be one of those. Most stores unfortunatly have bad setup instruments on display and most don't even bother in offering a setup when selling, this particular store i'm talking about only had two basses in a playable condition (yamaha RBX 375 and Squier Deluxe), it also had the most unplayable Stingray i ever encountered (but appart from the setup everything else was spon on with it). I would never buy a bass with bad assembly/fit/finish, if i'm paying a considerable amount of money i expect the bass to be well buildt. A neck pocket gap is a big flaw and there's no mass production story that justifies such thing. I recently bought a Sandberg for less money than a Fender would have cost and it has no issues so it is to be expected that the most expensive bass would be at least as well put together...

Go to the Sandberg page and use their configurator with the California TT model, the headstock shape and brand will be different but everything else will remind you of a Jazz.

[quote name='Mylkinut' timestamp='1358758733' post='1944402'] As I think anyone would do - I don't think anyone would knowingly buy a bad bass just because it said 'Fender' on it (at least I really, really hope not). There certainly are dogs out there, but if you find something you like... whatever tickles your pickle [/quote] The problem is that not everybody surfs the web and the forums and most of them isn't aware of the QC issues. In fact i would say most people buying is first "proper" bass after saving a lot of hard earned money will enter a music store and buy whatever is on the wall regardless of its condition/issues/setup/etc. just because they still don't know how to check this. So i'm affraid to tell you that a big lot of bass players do buy a planck of wood going only by what it's written on the headstock. I had Fenders and won't have problems in having another but i'll be aware for the QC issues when trying one. It's just a shame that many people spend a lot of money for a bass that's not properly assembled! Call me "hater" if you want but i will keep advising anyone looking for a Fender to be very carefull with any defects and to inspect it well before spending the money. There's another important thing to take in to consideration, these days people buy a lot of gear through the internet, with that kind of QC Fender isn't the best option to go when ordering internationally (Thomann, Musicstore, etc.). Cheers edit: some spelling

i believe you don't need to be a FB member if you do it like i explained. I'll make an experiment, i'll upload a pic to my FB and even set it as private and i'll embed it in this post so people see if they can see it or not: Here it goes: Can everybody see it? Even people without FB? Here's the link for the pic in my profile so you can see that it's locked for viewing: [url="http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.411366528942774.97189.100002082901234&type=1#!/photo.php?fbid=411366642276096&set=a.411366528942774.97189.100002082901234&type=3&theater"]http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.411366528942774.97189.100002082901234&type=1#!/photo.php?fbid=411366642276096&set=a.411366528942774.97189.100002082901234&type=3&theater[/url] Cheers

Here's how i do it, it's a very easy and direct way and no need to attach files to the posts. This works for all kind of photos hosted on the web but you need to be using Internet Explorer, on Chrome i still don't know how to do it and haven't yet tried on Firefox. If the photos are taken by me i put them all on Picasa but sometimes i use photos i've posted on Facebook. When i have the pic open in my browser either from picasa, facebook or any other website i click with the right button on it and then choose "Properties". this will open a info window where you can find the pics "URL Address". simply select and copy that address and use the Image insert button on the forum to embed that image on your post. I found this after doing a bit of research trying to find a way to post picasa images on forums so that i could stop using imageshack and photobucket. Hope this helps, if i haven't explained very well please ask and i'll try to complete my reply. cheers

Wren&Cuff Picle Pie B user here. It's just another Muff clone but with a very good voicing and the blend knob works wonderfully.