Ghost_Bass

Have you checked the fuse? Do that before dismantling the power module.

There are som cheap and pretty darn good power supplies on effectpowersupplies.com. Mine is running for 3 or 4 years without a glitch.

[quote name='Joker2807' timestamp='1354124339' post='1882423'] if they had a go at making a precision .. id be very very tempted but your new Jazz looks awesome man [/quote] You mean one like this?

[quote name='Jellyfish' timestamp='1354043371' post='1881378'] Well, I do have a bit of money put aside to buy myself one of these... Only problem is the waiting list. [/quote] You can avoid it: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/192648-fs-musicman-bongo-hh-5-yamaha-bbne2-5/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/192648-fs-musicman-bongo-hh-5-yamaha-bbne2-5/[/url]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1354028010' post='1881047'] Still want a Classic5 stingrays, probably tobacco burst [/quote] Yes pleaseeeee! but maple (roasted) fretboard and weighting under 9lbs! You Sir have a very good taste

Mine is the prettiest on BC! End of story!

Strange issue, if it was an active bass i would guess that you could be linking on the passive input but with a passive bass that shouldn't happen. I'm with Lozz, are you using any extreme EQ settings on the amp? Found a pic, is this your amp? Start with everything flat, all filter/EQ/compression switches off, master gain off, input switch set to LOW, all knobs of your bassguitar on full and start setting the gain until you see the clip light (the red one, on the right) on, then set the gain knob back a click or two until it's off and leaves just the middle (yellow?!!) on. Then add master volume at will and follow the amp's layout and set your tone (shape -> EQ -> Compressor). Be sure, if you use the amps EQ to leave your curve set around the 0dB line, if your desired tone puts the curve too high or too low simply move all faders to adjust them to the 0dB line and reset gain if needed. Always check your gain clip LEDs after each modification to the settings. Hope this will get you started, if you already tried all of this then just ignore me and take your problem to TE's tech support because you could have a issue on the amp. cheers and good luck Edit: just to clear one thing, the gain LED that you need to pay attention are the three that are above the gain knob, i wasn't refering to the one above the master volume!

Done another deal with Ryan, this time i bought a Thunderfunk amp from him. Everything went out nicely as expected, great guy to deal with.Reccomend! Cheers Marco

It´s here! I'll gig it this friday and let you know how it behaved. Cheers

why dont you add a JJ (humbucker)? Ive done this to a P and used a62 wiring scheme with .100 cap on the P and a .022 on the J, pure heaven! if i was to do a similar thing again i would definetly do exactly the same thing. sorry for mistakes texting from mobile :-)

Another thing to have in consideration: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/how-4-ohms-129485/"]http://www.talkbass....-4-ohms-129485/[/url] I'm a few seconds away to loose all faith in SWR/PAS gear if the same 10" drivers are being used for all models... it would be a great marketing stunt, all drivers used being the same 6ohm ones then you would get a 4x10" with 6Ohms wich would be badged as 4 or 8 ohms and a 6x10" cab that would really have 4 ohms... SWR owners, take out your multimeters and start measuring your cabs, please. We'll get to the bottom of this.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1353596218' post='1876414'] I'd call those 6 ohm drivers and a 6 ohm cab. I wouldn't be a bit suprised if SWR sold the same cab as 4 and 8 ohm, assuming that no one would bother to check. It wouldn't be the first time manufacturers have played fast and loose with the facts, nor the last. [/quote] I've also been trying to help Fernando with this mather and i share your idea to some extension. Maybe that's why people say that SWR speakers play louder when compared to the competition's 8 ohm cabs. One other thought about this would be that SWR could add a dummy switch for 4/8 ohm operation on the cab and no one would ever know I've been searching google for this and i'm now completely scared by the amount of people having blown PAS drivers on theis SWR cabs and in need of recone. I've found a topic on TB with a guy with an 8 ohm cab (stated on the backplate) and getting the same kind of readings from the multimeter as Fernando: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/goliath-iii-wiring-impedance-113123/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/goliath-iii-wiring-impedance-113123/[/url] The plot thickens...

[quote name='jackers' timestamp='1353025011' post='1870814'] I'm in an old school rock band, so grindy ampeg is definitely my main stomping ground. (...) [/quote] Mesa Boogie, the WA may be underpowered if you want clean sound but if you don't mind cranking the gain and get the valve goodness it'll come alive and get seriously loud! All the other opinions i've read are also good, i haven't seen a mention to the GB Streamliner, it could be another great option. After you get the S12 drop me a line on FB, i would like to hear your thoughts about it. Cheers

Great deal! Congrats!

The model names were well chosen!

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1353340039' post='1873842'] It's a very early ashdown head. it's 1998. [/quote] Even better! It adds more to the theory of dirty guts. Clean it with compressed air and squirt some contact cleaner, let it dry and hook it up. Check for loose solders but don't solder anything that doesn't appear definetly knackered. Use a jack tip and plug it in and out of each socket a few times, roll all knobs and sliders just to make sure you get all the dirt out. Hopefully that will sort any noise.

Buy this one and you're set for everything you can remember: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/192056-roland-v-bass/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/192056-roland-v-bass/[/url] I know Fernando personally, he's a great guy and a very serious seller, you won't have any problems dealing with him. Cheers

[quote name='Tankdave' timestamp='1352225831' post='1860453'] " I really like a clean and transparent sound without bass/high boosts or mid scoops, the Shuttle is exelent at this but it lacks the deep lows like any other class-D amp and sometimes they're necessary in some rooms" I'm surprised, as I find my 9.0 real good with the B-string? it's the main reason I'm keeping it. [/quote] The shuttle handles all the low you put in but it doesn't get it out as well as other non-digital amps. I'm still keeping it as a backup because i love it and am fully aware that that's a very good piece of kit, well put together with good components and wont be likely to fail or have any issues for a very long time. As an update i can say that i've just sent payment to a felow BC'er for a TFB550-B, fortunetly the waiting was short

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1353319109' post='1873470'] (...) sorry for the lack of caps i have a bust arm! [/quote] So... only open string notes for a while? Have a good and fast recovery

Maybe you could need to adjust the sadle to get the intonation set.

Sold a Walkabout head to Ryan. Great guy, excelent comunication, a very serious buyer/seller. Fast payment. Looking forward to do business with him again very soon. Highly recommend! Thank you

So... the first report we have from one of these is about it going out in flames?!! That's not good news, Ibby's QC is very bad, i'll be put off buying one of these for a while...

Mine is very light too and the electronics are like you described, smooth and subtle but capable of a variety of sounds. I'm finding that on my bass i need to boost both the highs and lows just a little bit to get it to cut better in the mix. There's also another isssue i'm trying to figure out, it seems that my bass could need some shielding, on two consecutive gigs playing practicly on top of a 18" sub i had some noise on my channel, both subs were from diferent brands (belonging to the house's PA) and i used diferent bass heads in each gig (Shuttle 9.0 and Walkabout). also tried it with bass gaoing straight to the amp without fx so i'm positive that the problem lies with the bass. Has anyone had a similar problem? Could it be a battery fault, on my TRB i get a similar sound when the battery is drained but the one on the Sandberg came new and only has 3 weeks of use. Another thing, i've played in the past with the TRB next to said subs and got no noise at all! Cheers

[quote name='Pinball' timestamp='1352719298' post='1866405'] Like new and not a mark on it so I'm I'm a happy boy! [/quote] I think it's time to go see an eye doctor... BTW, nice looking bass, congrats