Ghost_Bass

I've recently been using mine either through a Barefaced Midget T or a Epifani UL212 depending on the venue size. Haven't had any issues with lack of power yet. My fan is very noisy, i'm waiting for a PC noiseless replacement. I love the tone of the WA, even though it has two 12AX7 it can do a very clean and transparent sound with power to spare. It has been getting more use than my shuttle 9.0 since i got it. I have a topic over here somewere showing how to do the DI mod, i've found that it is very usefull and handy.

Sold a d-tuner to Chris, he sent payment instantly after we closed the deal even knowing he would be out on holliday for 2 weeks before he could verify the delivery. A great BCer, can't recommend enough. Thank you Marco

From my experience it isn't the Markbass amp that's messing with the clean signal, it's the cab! Markbass amps can be fairly clear (a bit of EQ needed) but the cabs have lots of colour and sound very "honky". I tend to stay away from any MB gear because of this.

Yup! But look at other models, i think there's something like a 6x12" somewere...

Everything Monolith Cabs may build! Here's their 4x15"

Sticking my neck up here but i prefered amp 1... i believe it was the EBS. I guess i'm not an old school guy...

And here's a better(ish) quality schematic i just recieved from Michael Taylor at Mesa: [attachment=112978:Mesa mod.jpg] edit: just realized that uploading the pic it got too small, if you want it just send me a PM or ask directly to Mesa.

All done! Finally gather the emotional strenght to drill through the chassis: [attachment=112973:DSCN1250.JPG] Here's everything put together: [attachment=112974:DSCN1251.JPG] [attachment=112975:DSCN1252.JPG] [attachment=112976:DSCN1255.JPG] And here it is betwen my Shuttle and my MidgetT: [attachment=112977:DSCN1260.JPG] Hope this topic can be usefull for someone with the same endeavour in mind in the future Cheers Marco

I think you need a resistor before the tone pot to keep it from acting on the P pickups, i've done a '62 stacked pot wiring with vol/tone for each pickup and had to add two resistors to prevent crosstalk between the two tones. I'm guessing that following the same logic this tone pot could also act on the P's. But i'm no techie and don't know a thing about electronics so i'll take All's word over mine any time!

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1342083880' post='1729120'] Ah - I read 'STL' as Streamliner.. The Walkabout is a great amp... [/quote] In deed it is, i never thought i could get such a clean tone out of anything with two valves.

Sorry but i only have the Shuttle, never had the chance to try the Streamliner.

All soldered and hooked up, a very deep breath and turned it on... it works!!!! phew!!! switch working properly, no noises when switching, master volume definetly out of the DI. First impressions are that the sound in fact looses some of that valve warmness but i want this amp to run clean so that's just fine. [attachment=112904:DSCN1243.JPG] [attachment=112905:DSCN1244.JPG] On to replace the fan whilst i gather the nerve to punch a hole in the chassis to apply the switch... edit: i've just looked at the time ... i got to get to bed, i'll finish the job tomorrow!

Removed the cap and build an amatorish PCB to mount the switch and the cap so it won't be hanging by just one lead. Soldered it to the PCB and added the wires that'll go to the main board: [attachment=112901:DSCN1237.JPG] [attachment=112902:DSCN1238.JPG] [attachment=112903:DSCN1242.JPG] Sorry for the quality of the pics, my camera isn't the best... On to solder the wires to the main board and give ir a try before starting to mount it all.

I've got to work on my amp, after 17000 screws (are the guys from Mesa affraid that the lid comes off with vibration?!!) i removed the top of the head and identified the C21 and C26 caps for the mod, as described on WoT's schematic. This is a simple mod and all you have to do is to unsolder the positive side of C26 and connect it using a wire to the top of C21. Here's a pic: [attachment=112892:Drawing1-Model.jpg] After seeing this o got another idea, why don't i add a switch to make this mod reversible? I can apply the switch on the back pannel. At the same time and having the head opened i can also replace the noisy fan for a noiseless one. Luckily i already have all the parts i need knocking around: [attachment=112893:DSCN1235.JPG] [attachment=112894:DSCN1233.JPG] Next step is to remove the valves for safety, unscrew the PCB so i can have acess to the lower solders and remove the C26 cap (i'll explain later why i'm removing it). I'll report back soon, cheers