markstuk

+1 to the previous suggestions.. Also is the input gain adjusted high enough? The GS112's are not the most efficient cabs in the world, but your amp should drive two of them to decent levels.... Of course a couple of barefaced midget T's would give you about an average 3 db gain, but it sounds like you're short quite a bit more than this.. Mark

With your permission I may well use that [quote name='Len_derby' post='1249409' date='May 29 2011, 05:12 PM'] 'I play in band' Yeah, so why aren't you playing tonight then?[/quote]

So what did you settle on in the end? [quote name='JTUK' post='1249221' date='May 29 2011, 02:32 PM']We demo our new..for us..P.A tonight. I am hoping for very good things from it.[/quote]

Except there is no red switch on the back of the RH... It's good to be cautious but worth doing some fact checking as well.. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1248949' date='May 29 2011, 09:57 AM']Exactly, So did the Mesa Boogie ones[b] for the UK model[/b] and exactly how the buyer and others have been caught out with other brands too hence why it keeps popping up. Like I said the TC may well be fine my Genz is for example but I cant stress that not all makes are even though the pics show the little red switch etc which is fine until the US one arrives with a blanking plate because it is not there! Expensive mistake made by many trust me.[/quote]

Except that the specs say "Universal 100-240V~ 50/60 Hz (100 W @ 1/8 Power)" [quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1248914' date='May 29 2011, 09:16 AM']I have a feeling the TC stuff will be fine as most class D amps so far appear to be but like I said in my earlier post and for future reference for anyone reading this in general before you order one you must be certain about that voltage. It was from a link just like that others have been caught out for lots of dosh. If the specs are for a UK model or from a UK site/ditributor then quite often the voltage from a UK model can be 'Tapped' off for 120v and included as an extra bonus for us UK buyers on the spec sheet for world domination! BUT if it has a 120v transformer inside for the US market only it cant be 'Tapped' for 230v as the windings dont exist inside. Like I said this may not apply to this amp but for future reference when comparing any electrical gear to the US version on price make sure its going to work, Me and Icastle (Ian) have had to explain this a few times in other threads and was the reason for this scam about sending the US version back to the UK for a refund too but it keeps cropping up still. Simplified electrical maths lesson, If the amp wants 12 Volts at its delicate bits and you have 230V at the wall socket then the transformer could have say 19 windings which would give 12.10V at each, Take the power from one winding job done. Then if you 'Tap' in at winding number 10 and put 120V in (ie US) thats 120 divided by 10 which also equals 12V again job done. Now if it was a US transformer it would only need 10 windings of copper to get out 12V meening the other 9 needed for the UK are not there, Factor in those windings are in the hundreds or thousands rather than 19 or 10 and the cost of the copper etc and thats when it gets messy for the wise Basschatter that just saved a few quid! Did that make sense? [/quote]

Mark at Bass Direct - [url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Home.html"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_sp...lists/Home.html[/url]

My mastery of the internet found the following... [url="http://www.tcelectronic.com/rh750-techspecs.asp"]http://www.tcelectronic.com/rh750-techspecs.asp[/url] And a UK standard "kettle" lead will work fine... If you declare bringing it in you'll have to pay 20% VAT and possibly some duty... You'll end up saving £100 tops, unless you want to risk HMCE smacking your bottom.. And you'll want to think about warranty issues, unless TC have a worldwide warranty policy... MArk [quote name='sgh' post='1248452' date='May 28 2011, 05:30 PM']I'll be going to the US in a few weeks and was thinking of picking one up, Guitar Center do them for 999 usd ! Couple of questions though : Power supply, can I just get a replacement uk lead and Dimensions anyone know the boxed dimensions and also what the weight is ? Cheers[/quote]

Looks expensive but I suspect he'll relist... [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JBL-15-BASS-BINS-2226-DRIVERS-/400217731399?pt=UK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL&hash=item5d2ed5f147"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JBL-15-BASS-BINS-222...=item5d2ed5f147[/url]

Just to add my threepenny worth, talent without working hard only takes you so far, and working hard without talent also only takes you so far... :-) Cheers Mark

Another thought is to ask someone on here who lives close to you to run through the process with you slowly in exchange for a future favour/beer/food/beer tokens?

good result... mirrors my own experience (now gigging with RH450/Super Twelve T)

+3 :-) [quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='1246815' date='May 27 2011, 11:12 AM']This is my holy trinity In the name of the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit, AMEN! [/quote]

First time this has happened to me on basschat.. Paid for an item via paypal gift from a longstanding basschat member a week ago, member promised to send it for next day delivery.. I've chased him for status but he's been ignoring (although reading as they're tracked) the PM's I'm sending him asking nicely about whereabouts in the process he is.. I've now asked him less nicely to either communicate about sending the item or refunding me my money.. If this generates no response, I'm left in a situation where my only feasible next step is to name and shame... Thoughts? Cheers Mark

lots of online help.. good start something like this [url="http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html"]http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html[/url] or [url="http://www.scribd.com/doc/24388474/Bass-Setup-Guide"]http://www.scribd.com/doc/24388474/Bass-Setup-Guide[/url] But it sounds like the slot for the B string in the nut needs filing (or adjusting if the Warwick nut is adjustable)...

I think I'm a convert to fretless playing now.... :-) Bought a BB3000AF from Alemboid to see how I would get on, slung a set of Flatwound Chromes on it yesterday, did some basic tidying up and I'm really getting into it..

The key of the piece tends to determine whether you use sharps or flats, it's common to double flat or double sharp for accidentals.. OF course this opens the debate as to whether A Sharp and B flat are the same note :-) [quote name='Skol303' post='1247320' date='May 27 2011, 04:47 PM']This may well be a dumb question (so bear with me!)... but I can't for the life of me find the answer on Google, so I thought I'd rely on your folks here instead. My question is: when writing music, when do you use the sharp or flat notation to describe the same note? For example: when is C-sharp written as C-sharp and not D-flat? I appreciate there might not be a simple answer here for my simple mind... but if anyone can help briefly clarify then please do. Cheers as always.[/quote]

Just bought a Yamaha BB3000A from him.. Lovely chap, easyto deal with, good comms, what more do you want...

The John East J-Retro preamp is also a "drop in"installation as well AFAIK.. [quote name='ConnorHamilton' post='1246509' date='May 27 2011, 12:32 AM']Hey all, Was going to save for a Lakland 4401 but have decided to fulfill an ambition of mine and mod my 2002 Fender Jazz 62 Reissue! So far I'm think the following:- Pickups - Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder P/J Set (will require routing) about £125 Pickguard - white tortoise shell (will hide the routing, hard to find a j guard with P hole Though!!) about £20 Preamp - Audere 3 band with Z mode or Glockenlang 2 band stacked (Not sure yet!) about £120 Tuners - I have no idea, would love some suggestions! Possibly a xtender if I can afford one! £No idea?! I like the bridge on there but I'll hear suggestions! The only thing I've changed on a bass before are strings so any suggestions/tips/advice would be GREATLY appreciated! Also anyone who has ordered from Audere, what kind of customs charges did you end up with? Thanks in advance! Connor[/quote]

Not really my point.. Let me be more direct. The assumption I'm questioning is that superb build/setup etc is the main contributor to "good" B's (although of course it's not as simple as just scale length since we're not rigidly attached to the nut are we?) In which case a superbly constructed 29" scale bass should have a better B than say a 35" Ibanez BTB for instance... So what is the critical minimum scale length for an otherwise optimally good bass B string (something like a Ray perhaps? ) [quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1245984' date='May 26 2011, 06:02 PM']Like many things a 34" doesn't meen it will have a bad B and 35" won't meen it has a good one either, Both outcomes can exist with either although as there appear to be less cheap 35"'s about it will be less likely to get a bad B in a 35". If the neck has a lot of flex at that tension the B won't be good no matter how long it is the same as if it has skinny strings on.[/quote]

If scale length has "nothing" to do with it, why are we all not playing 29" scale basses? Or is it that 34" is a magic number? [quote name='JTUK' post='1245381' date='May 26 2011, 11:22 AM']I agree with this...... there were plenty of theories when 5's first appeared but it is all down to construction and build. I don't believe neck-thru over bolt-on or 34 or 35 makes much difference and neither does Sadowsky ( I assume ) who was probably very prominent and at the forefront making top end 5st basses 20 years ago. Unfortunately, I wouldn't expect Fender OR MM or a few others to get it right 100% of the time, IME. That is not to say they don't make some basses with very good B's but that it is not a given on any model. I would never buy a 5 string mass build bass without hearing that particular bass. Strings and a set-up may help out here...but a uninspired B can remain an uninspired B. Minefield, IMV.[/quote]

[quote name='Jakester' post='1245282' date='May 26 2011, 10:13 AM']I think I'm definitely going to revisit it in the future, but at present I think it's not really a goer for the type of stuff I'm playing.[/quote] "The low-B just felt.... indistinct - there wasn't the bite that the 4er had, despite being the same pickups and wood. " 34" B string by any chance? (stands back a safe distance and waits)