synaesthesia

I had the 4001CS lefty, and still have my 4001V63 lefty. I had the CS first, and got the other becuase it was jetglo without binding and I could string one with flats and the other with roundwounds. Swapped strings etc... the sonic difference? I didn't find any to be honest and I worked in recording studios and tested both in comparison extensively in the 90s....., the 4001V63 has the same pickups. Sold my CS to a US Yes collector for a high profit, as mine was one of 4 lefty CS models made. Didn't have to sell it but I thought I might as well cash in. Still have my v63 dot neck. Great bass. The pickup at the 'bridge' - more like the middle really, you can take the horseshoe assembly off, don't let anyone tell you you can't. They are 2 folded metal pieces. I have had mine on, off several times. Presently I think it is off, took it off a couple of months ago. Sonically, if you want a rick and don't need the cosmetics of the investment models, any rick will do if you get the toaster, hi gain or whatever pickup fits your fancy. As one vintage collector told me, a Rick doesn't get any better in age - which is an inverse compliment that the QC is typically high. RIC did not have a bad patch in their manufacturing output in QC terms, unlike Norlin and CBS eras of Gibson and Fender, or Baldwin Gretsches.... The QC on colour is something else. Whist not actually bad, the consistency of the sunbursts, i.e. fireglo varies somewhat. My 360/12v64 LH is a bit redder and less yellow than others I've seen. According to Mark Arnquist, a repairman who used to work at RIC, the fella in charge of spraying was clinically colour blind! Frankly Chris Squire's tone has a lot to do with his amp set up despite using a Rick, though I grant you that the basis of the tone was from his Rick.

[quote name='Bassman7' post='71981' date='Oct 10 2007, 07:37 AM']If you're looking for a good deal on the Pro version of Duracells look up the Studiospares website at www.studiospares.com where you'll find some good prices.[/quote] RE: Procells Look in Ebay and you'll find Procells for roughly £1 @ depending on how many you buy. I've pretty much stopped using rechargeables when you can procells at these prices. Procells are 'industrial' versions of Duracells, i.e. much the same thing with a different dress.

I'd imagine you'd have to sand it off. Or VERY carefully use paint stripper, which does work in layers.. the danger of course is dissolving the resin surface. Carbon Graphite is a misnomer, the main content is resin and carbon graphite is really the reinforcement.

RIC parts contact Mike at music conection [url="http://www.the-music-connection.com/ric.htm"]http://www.the-music-connection.com/ric.htm[/url]

[quote name='alexclaber' post='62080' date='Sep 18 2007, 11:03 AM']It feels like a bit of a leap of faith going to a rig which has no EQ apart from a handful of preshapes but if the rest of your gear sounds good and you're after a true and clean sound then it's unbeatable for the money. Alex[/quote] It seems mysterious but it shouldn't. A sax player goes on stage and he doesn't think EQ but tone. Start with the right gear and you shouldn't be worrying.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='61703' date='Sep 17 2007, 02:36 PM'][url="http://www.avalondesign.com/vt737sp.html"]http://www.avalondesign.com/vt737sp.html[/url] I recorded through one over the weekend and the sound was pretty good. I particularly liked the combination of super quiet electronics, compressor and tube preamp. But at £1200 or so, they're going to be a little pricey for most. Has anyone used one in their bass rig?[/quote] Yes. These have been out a while, I think they were new about 10 years ago when I was doing a lot of TV soundtracks. This model is not as celebrated in the BG world but if I remember it has an instrument input so it is not like you'd be forcing a mic preamp to work for you.

I bought one. You are welcome to buy it off me. Works as a strapand may distribute the weight a bit better across your body, but didn't work for what I thought it might cure - a neck dive bass (telecaster shaped body). PM me if you want it, it's the D'addario one.

[quote name='Johngh' post='56831' date='Sep 7 2007, 09:24 AM']+1 Your not kidding. I posted a comment on the EB forum about this subject and thought I was going to get shot ! [/quote] Nothing new in that sort of behaviour in the branded forums. The Alembic, Rickenbacker, insert your brand 'here' etc etc etc forums are places where blasphemy and sacrilege cannot be tolerated.

I got rid of all my DATs. ADATs, a long time ago and my last Nakamichi couldn't be used anymore when Nakamichi stopped producing replacement tapeheads.....Looked around the house, and found that I actually still have a 'tape' recorder: I use a Sony VHS video recorder, the sort that would record hi quality audio if you find the ones that would print audio on separate tracks to the video. as opposed to the type that would print audio and video simultaneously. You could also use those..... I'm sure you can pick one up cheap as no one wants VHS anymore... It 's effectively a 2 channel ADAT. It might seem cumbersome but you can let it run for 3 hours.......about one full rehearsal on one VHS....then you take it home and bounce/edit it digitally if you need to. Mine has standard RCA ins and outs. You can set up stereo mics via a little preamp and feed it, or take a feed off your desk. I use a small behringer mixer and run 2 or 3 mics if I reherase a trio or quartet, or run a feed off the desk if we are using a desk at rehearsal and there are more players/audio sources.

[quote name='BassistJonathan' post='56228' date='Sep 5 2007, 08:28 PM']Sorry if this is in the wrong category but does anyone know where I can buy fretfx merchandise in the UK. I know about the aurora project but I frankly don't have that much cash. I would quite like to get something similar to fretfx thats available in America for a lot cheaper. Suggestions?[/quote] Fret FX work well and would set you back in the region of 60 - 80 quid depending in options once you add up VAT, import duties etc. But it works well though, Roz has made me a few custom sets now (different wiring options). The low setting is all you need to see on dark stages (I have several dotless black carbon graphite necked basses --- so they fretfx system is a real help in dark places). , and though he is finnicky about it, if you know your electrons and solder you can modify the system. You can't see it from here but the bass in the avatar has the fret fx system, with the switch and batteryy pack on the body which I modified out of the stock Fretfx system (The headstock is the fly headstock and has no 'real estate' for the battery block - I gave Roz a lot of grief on this bass trying out different battery systems, coin batteries , lithium batteries etc..eventually we had some kind of coin battery pack but it would only last one gig - the conventional battery packs lasts for months.)

[quote name='MacDaddy' post='50585' date='Aug 25 2007, 03:43 PM']not sure, it still has all its power. Its a Duracell plus, if that makes a difference?[/quote] They are shorting across the two exposed terminals. A bit of electrical tape across the terminals will solve your problem. some batteries like Procells (industrial versions of duracells) come with a removable plastoc cap on one terminal and that solves this sort of thing.

The Phonic 8000E will do most bass racks with one or two power amps unless you plan to use one for a 12U rack of power amps or lights. Also, unless you have a stigma about brands, this or a behringer should do the job. I have used various types, DOD, DBX etc. PM me if you really want a Furman but it will not be £50.

KA designs pickups, but the bulk building of their pickups excepting custom wounds etc are made in Korea. Ken Smith pickups are designed by KA and made in Korea.

[quote name='Timface' post='45193' date='Aug 14 2007, 11:54 AM']Hey I was wondering, do these help with sound insulation? Ive heard alot about them but never been sure... And when fixing them to a galvanise roof how is it best to be done! lol Tim[/quote] Egg crates are useless in insulation. They help a little bit with standing wave reflection but even for that you;d be better off with foam or carpet stuck on the wall. For proper sound insulation, you can build a stud wall, using bog standard timber you get from B & Q say 50mm or 75mm thk in section. You want to stuff these walls with rockwool. You'd get about -20 to - 40 db reduction with that depending on your construction, thickness etc. Some people line these with two panels of gypsum board. If you have the space and the facility will permit build a celcon wall as your additional layer. It is an aerated concrete block you can get from B & Q and you can cut it with a penknife or hacksaw, but you lay it on like bricks. For your galvanised roof, lay some aluminum or timber runners, stuff rockwool, and lay some gypsum boards as per wall insulation.