synaesthesia

[quote name='Paul_C' post='43523' date='Aug 9 2007, 10:48 PM']that's the obvious one, if all the other strings are ok[/quote] check also your action, and the neck relief.

Not sure I'll sell many items here but if you like to leave some feedback or money....

If you look at what happens to a signal you can decide whether you have a use for the audio consequence. You have amongst your efx: type a. signal dynamics limiting devices === compressor type b. tonal spectrum altering devices === wah wah, eq type c. signal waveform altering devices === distortion type. d. amplitude modulation devices ==== tremolo, phaser type e. time modulation === delay, chorus The conventional wisdom is that you put your type a before type c and these before type d & e if you are running your signals in series. Type e tends to run in parallel internally even if you do not choose to run time modulation in parallel - you will have a wet/dry mix control. Puttting type a AFTER type b, will mean that you end up with higher noise, Putting type d or e BEFORE type c, will mean you end up with increasing or decreasing levels or modulating levels of waveform alteration Putting type d AFTER type c, will mean that your amplitude fluctuation will be fluctuation of a consistently modified waveform shape. Putting type e AFTER type a,b or c will mean you end up with a time modulated compressed, eq'd or distorted signal. Putting type e BEFORE type a, will mean that you end up with less distinct levels of signal decay. A type b efx, will alter the tonal spectrum of your signal. If you place it after any other effect, it will alter the tonal spectrum after that effect's modification of the original signal. If you put it before, it alters the signal before it gets altered by another effect. viz. if you EQ before compression, you change the nature of the signal that will be compressed, and if you EQ after compression you change the tonal nature of the already compressed signal. A wah wah is a modulating bandpass tonal modification and is really a tonal effect. So a wah after distortion is like an EQ after distortion, and an wah before distortion is like an EQ before distortion, ie. distortion of an altered tonal spectrum. Effectively you can do what you want as long as the signal modification is something you want to achieve. If you are a novice, try various combinations and see if you can find a use for it.... but if you don't like the results stick to the conventional: type a into type c into type d or e, type b can fit anywhere in between.

Stagg are producing some roller rack ABSish cases. Like I said elsewhere if I buy a Stagg it would be an inert object not capable of making musical sound. Cheaper than Gator and SKB of course, but these roller cases have an inherent problem. If they say its 4U, you really only end up with 3 and a bit U on account of the retracting handle and wheels. My 6U Gator roller rack case, on the other hand, truly takes 6U and the retracting handle etc. Still the Stagg cases work nicely if you bear in mind the flaw in capacity. I think their '6U' roller rack is really 5 and a bit only and the '8U' is 7 and a bit and so on..... I think this is only a problem with the roller racks. Have no problem with thier MIxer case, works as well as a Gator or SKB.

Exploring interest if any in MOGAMI cables with Neutrik connectors from anyone.

They make very good basses, kind of after Schack in their early days... suppose it is the J fashion now, and I wouldn't have thought they would have gone this route but the market is very very J bass right now. I played a couple of Marleauxs back in the day when they were starting up, and also met Gerald Marleaux who makes these. They had some pretty clever circuits and I have not seen another like that since, 3 variable frequencies para EQ but each variable frequency lockable with a logic control switch... too clever for a market that really wants one tone and one volume knob....

[quote name='philbillbass' post='38509' date='Jul 29 2007, 04:32 PM']any opinions on the Shure T3-ZZ VHF wireless that is for sale in the classifieds? thanks[/quote] VHF systems will work but are more prone to interference. Go UHF.

[quote name='guitarnbass' post='36863' date='Jul 25 2007, 01:37 PM']It takes a stand up guy I guess..[/quote] Yes I must be less than that that for pointing out the legal standing and my beliefs.

[quote name='guitarnbass' post='36856' date='Jul 25 2007, 01:13 PM']I see what you are saying, but when it's a tightly knit community like this, it's a different situation.[/quote] I beg to disagree. There would be no end to claim and I see no reason why I or anyone else should be my fellow bass chatter's keeper. I certainly don't expect it from anyone, and there are various other communities of shared pursuit, or for that matter the larger world out there where it would be silly for this to happen. As I have suggested there are many other ways to express goodwill or 'compensation' if you feel the guilty need to.

[quote name='LordAvon' post='36843' date='Jul 25 2007, 12:56 PM']All, has anyone done any DIY bass building? I've seena few places offering kits (I assume the £65 kit is going to be pretty naff), I was thinking about a bass from here - [url="http://www.wdmusic.com/guitar_builder.htm"]http://www.wdmusic.com/guitar_builder.htm[/url] anyone got any experience with them? Paul[/quote] WD is OK, there are many companies offering parts. What you are proposing to do is assembly from parts as opposed to making from scratch. For building from scratch, try locating Melvyn Hiscock's book, or better yet get one of the newer ones, ... saw one yesterday in a music shop, seriously loads of photos at every step... [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Your-Own-Electric-Guitar/dp/1846091276/ref=sr_1_1/026-0005974-4847628?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1185366121&sr=1-1"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Your-Own-Ele...6121&sr=1-1[/url] Thumbed through it and would have bought it if I was a newbie at building. Sort of had (to me) an unnecessary history of guitars at the front... but useful and IMHO surpasses the Hiscock book on sheer illustrative quality alone.

[quote name='guitarnbass' post='36837' date='Jul 25 2007, 12:50 PM']I wonder what you'd be saying if you were the 3rd owner of the bass in question..[/quote] I'd claim against the person I bought it off, not previous owners. They don't owe me a duty of care and I know I cannot pursue it legally.

[quote name='Beedster' post='36801' date='Jul 25 2007, 12:06 PM']Thanks, I take the point. However, to not compensate a fellow BCer in this situation to me would have been to behave less ethically than the original dealer. I'm aware that I really should have had the bass appraised myself sooner, we live and learn don't we. Does his statement in the listing cited above not have any legal impications? Cheers Chris[/quote] It would have little weight really. All they need to say is that they sold you a perfectly good bass and something happened after they sold it to you. It becomes a my word against yours situation that cannot be proved. FWIW, caveat emptor applies to all buyers, including the ones whom you sold it to. A dealer has recourse to the manufacturer if the instrument is new, none if the instrument is not. You presumably have no recourse to forms of compensation other that your own pocket. Without sounding cynical, did your in between buyer (then seller) have anything to do with the damage, does he/she feel the same remorse? In a legal sale, the last buyer really should accept his /her losses, and you may feel some ethical need to act but there is not reason why you should more than to express genuine explanation and empathy, unless you have deeps pockets or a genuine propensity towards philanthropy. You know between musos there are different ways to compensate, a couple of CDs, some accessories, a paid dep gig or two thrown someone's way.....

Caveat Emptor applies. Too much time has passed for Paypal or Ebay to help, and however genuine the case, it is unlikely you will have legal recourse. Further, it would seem to me you have no duty of care to the most recent buyer seeing that you have actually sold the instrument on. All the buying and selling since your purchase pretty much puts you in a situation where you: a. have no recourse to claim in your original purchase b. really shouldn't have offered to compensate the most recent buyer. The 3rd or 4th owner of a car really has no business with the 1st owner should a fault develop, same applies to a bass, musician's soup, genuine benevolence, camadarie and all that...

[quote name='dood' post='17897' date='Jun 14 2007, 09:50 PM']I have a 4" wide "SlapStrap" from www.geraldreese.com - it's lurrrrrrrrvely.. makes any bass feel a lot lighter than having a 2" strap digging in. I recommend them![/quote] They are my preferred choice, the doubled velcro system is very strong, and is adjustable in seconds to milimetre accurate perfect fit and you don't have to muck about with slipping buckles or fixed position loops for an approximate fit. Spend a bit more and get the ones with the suede back; they are softer, more pliable and infinitely better than the all leather ones.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='35746' date='Jul 22 2007, 10:56 PM']During Come on Eileen last night my bloody AKG cut out again. .... Im getting very nervous about using it now.[/quote] When I was looking for a wireless someone told me that it would either be: < £30 cable or >£300 wireless. In the >£300 range, you could also consider the Lectrosonics IS400. It is digital like the X2 but the Lectrosonics is 88.2khz sample rate, whilst the X2 I suspect isn't, and is more frequency agile than the X2. [url="http://www.lectrosonics.com/wireless/400/is400.htm"]http://www.lectrosonics.com/wireless/400/is400.htm[/url] BTW, X2 have annnounced a rack mount version just this week..... [url="http://www.x2digitalwireless.com/product_xdr95.htm"]http://www.x2digitalwireless.com/product_xdr95.htm[/url]