stingrayPete1977

OK here is my terrible drawing of how I have acheived a better overall action with shims or microtilts (pre EB Rays), I have tried to accentuate the angles so we are talking tiny amounts in reality, for me this is only applicable for basses where the neck will only straighten from a certain point before giving a back bow. [URL=http://s997.photobucket.com/user/stingraypete/media/20130910_190855_zps5b25b63b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/stingraypete/20130910_190855_zps5b25b63b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1378832946' post='2205322'] I'm sorry to mess with your quote Pete but aren't number one and two virtually the same thing? The release you need to aplly to the shimmed neck in order to "enjoy a rattle free bass" is the same you need tp aplly to a unshimmed (does this work exist?) neck to get the same result. Only difference between both methods is to change the saddle height in oreder to achieve the same effect! Simple geometry! For all that is worth i want to add that the best (lowest) action i ever had was on my parted Singray5, factory setup, had a bit of fretbuzz but not audible through the amp, played like butter [/quote] The ideas with geometry and straight lines does not work because the neck is not straight only the strings are, what you are doing in effect is introducing a slight (so slight most players me included dont need it) dip around the 15-17th frets by offering the neck at a slightly tilted angle to where it was before.

You set the bass up, saddles are in the middle of their travel no problems, action nice and low at the 12th fret and the truss rod is holding the neck totally flat with no releif at all, you play it and the fretted notes are buzzing and rattling all over the place, what can you do? Add some releif until the rattles go, but now the action is quite high around the middle of neck even with the saddles lowered right down and the action really low at the 12th fret. Raise the action and leave the truss rod alone, that wont help will it because you already had a good action you were happy with so now its too high. Pop a shim in the heel to tilt the neck back and let a bit of tension off the truss rod for a comprimise between the two, set the action at the 12th fret and enjoy a rattle free bass

Forget perfect world necks and truss rods, the post below BRX's diagrams sums it up best...... [quote name='Kongo' timestamp='1243875872' post='503126'] Shimming the end of the neck pocket also makes the actiob even throughout so even if you like your current action but would like it the same all along the fretboard you can shim for that too. [/quote] Raising a neck within the pocket to compensate for a bridge that has its saddles bottomed out is nothing like adding a tilt via a shim or the microtilt adjuster.

I'm probably not explaining it very well, hopefully someone else can do a better job? A big part of the set neck is to over come the problem, and it usually does.

If you have the neck adjusted with no relief or back bow but the area from say the 15th fret to the end has a natural (slight) curve then adjusting the saddles down will not give you a low action all the way up, it's not great I know but I didn't invent it.

It's not at all, you can't adjust the whole length of the neck. I'm certain I'm right on this one BRX.

Nice one!

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1378812470' post='2204857'] You only need a shim to set the appropriate action if there is insufficient vertical travel in the bridge. [/quote] It has nothing to do with that at all, the truss rod doesn't act upon the neck near the heel end so the shim adjusts the angle of the finger board slightly. You could have a bass with loads of adjustment left at the bridge but when you set the action as low as you require at the upper register and with an almost flat neck (actually flat for some people) the general playing area is still too high an action, it has nothing to do with the bridge travel. You can have a neck pocket set too deep which has the opposite problem but requires the whole pocket packing out to raise the heel so the saddles are not bottomed out.

[quote name='keeponehandloose' timestamp='1378764723' post='2204553'] if you want to pay £100 per string Thomann can sod off , theyre yours. [/quote] I had enough trouble explaining to the wife after buying two sets of spirocores at £140 each! Thankfully guts have yet to spark my interest

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1378757665' post='2204408'] you did the right thing...offer to pay a bit more and keep the strings? [/quote] Guts can be £100 a string though!

That is a bit daft then, bound to be some kind of stock/computer box ticking exercise.

Most stingrays have a plastic shim fitted as standard I think?

Sounds like a dodgy jack socket not switching the preamp on, dirty contact on the edge where it connects is enough to cause it?

The only thing I can see to be fair is that the full set packaging is probably different to the single strings so they can't just pop a new G in with your ead to sell to someone else, not exactly £6 a set are they db strings

All the Genz Di's are good and can be set to line or mic level , never had any amp with an adjustable di level not sure I'd want one?

Had mine as my main amp for years now, no issues at all. I have thrashed it lately at a few gigs so I am going to treat it to a new valve. I have the 3.0 also and thats a good amp too especially with a 4 ohm cab or pair of 8 ohm cabs, struggles a bit with a single 12 after a while but the 6.0 has never left me needing more power. I did a gig on staurday, the main band had a 2x10 and a 1x15 with an Ashdown head, di'd through a massive pa too big for the room, they had no idea how to operate their pa so by the time we went on they asked me to just use my amp as backline! Shuttle 6.0 and a 1x12 (would have took my 2x12 if I had known but I knew there was a big pa with monitors so I didnt bother, I wasnt even going to take a cab and just Di the head! Well the little shuttle had no trouble at all, everything at 12 oclock, they even said the bass was too loud at one point against a mic'd up kit! I now have a Shuttlemax9.2 as my big amp, thats brilliant.

I sometimes mentally visualize a score for a part if I have learnt it from dots before hand and then subdivide that into my inbuilt timer I guess.

[quote name='Leen2112' timestamp='1378731506' post='2203805'] I don't know about that, it would look like i'm making up my own feedback. [/quote] If you put the members forum name at the top and make sure it only contains the truth I see no problem as anyone buying from you could message that person to check.it would be easy enough to make up pretend members and get them to leave you false feed back.

A top of the range Gedo set up by a top Luthier with a full circle fitted to a nice bridge professionally fitted and adjusted will always be a better bass to play than a vintage bass for four grand that would be eight grand if it wasn't dogged with issues. Total mine field ain't it?

[quote name='Leen2112' timestamp='1378729952' post='2203759'] My last sale I got an email saying how great my packaging etc was but no feedback here! I didnt wand to go begging for it so I left it. [/quote] Just copy and paste the message into your own feedback page

If you want pro musicians in your band then they will be more interested in getting paid than a weekly social club, that's fine if a big part of it is doing it as a hobby but lots of players are playing in lots of bands to pay the bills and can cut the mustard live without Weeks, months or years of practice that some people want only to never gig in the end.

Done

Sold Dave my squier jazz bass, good honest member, deal with confidence

I haven't left you any Dave because I want sure if you were happy with the bass at first due to you being busy, after that I just totally forgot in the same way you forgot to post my gig bag back : lol: (got it the other day actually, ta) I shall head on over right now and leave you some