stingrayPete1977

[quote name='muttley' timestamp='1373276082' post='2135457'] I have no real objection to the dots on appearance grounds but I'd rather learn without them. I assume the Stagg has side markers though? I've read through your thread, SRP, and that and the one on TB will give me plenty of modding ideas. [/quote] I dont mind the side ones on the Stagg so much but the little ones all over the front on some of the NX basses confuse the hell out of me! All easy mods except the strings being 4/4 length so dont but 3/4 ones unless you want the hassle of drilling the bridge out etc, right pain. My Stagg is brilliant now with its Spiros and the mods done, no hiss, nice tone, easy to play, portable and the audience really like it, they are also totally amazed at it only costing £300 after quite a few folk have asked me after gigs

I have no markers on my DB, going cold turkey

I am still having trouble with my setup, I have the plat pro now so its either my lack of ability to set the plat pro up well or the cheap piezo, this thread is making me think I need a K&K just to have the standard gear? (Spiros, K&K and Plat Pro)

I find the dots confusing, too many of them! Gorgeous things to look at though.

The stagg is much more like the real thing, great value for money especially if you do the little modifications.

Oooh nice!

Only want fivers these days hence the Classic5 but its no pre eb as far as ooomph is concerned

I am finding my Classic a bit gutless, its certainly no match for a proper pre eb. Afaik the 2 band preamp has never changed since the last pre eb version with electrolytic caps but I am hoping a john east preamp will sort it out unless the pickup is naff?

True

Drugs are bad mmmmmk

Ah that's not good mate

I have about a years worth of listening already, but I like it, next thing the Spiros will be coming off for a set of weedwackers

smashed broken and mangled or just worn out over time its all the same and ruins our bass playing! Hope it fixes soon Samashton. I dont think it has failed as such Milty, it may have been that far through when they did it or maybe the bone has shrunk back a few mm after the healing, either way its defo poking the sharp end out at 45 degrees into the wrist joint. I was happy enough to leave the plate in but it does cause me trouble as I can feel the tendons running over it and it hurts when the humidity changes in either direction so even if the screw is not causing all my problems it should solve some of them. How's the leg anyway?

[quote name='wrinkleygit' timestamp='1373114769' post='2133858'] think you have misread my post you need to check the relief at the mid point between the first fret & the point where the neck joins the body, on most instruments this would be around the 7-9th fret [/quote] Ah I see what you are saying now yes I still prefer to hold down between the 1st and 12th fret, I dont use a gauge either as I find getting that area to the point just after it would choke is as good as any neck can ever be without a microtilt adjustment or a shim. Like I said before everyones tastes are different so if you like the typical Fender manual settings for string height and releif etc then my way will probably end up too straight anyway.

I still like Bill though

So much to learn just on this genre and all its sub genres! I wish I had gone to the DB ten years ago now

Bongo 5, SR5, ClassicRay5 or a Nathan East 5.....you cant miss

Got your pm mate, no problem at all shame you are in Cardiff rather than north Wales as that is not so far really, nice deal on the new set up from cash convertors too

The CD I have is a collection including must of the artists you mentioned with some cool early Elvis stuff too but it's Bill I like the most by far, I'd grow a quiff but I'm bald!

I cant decide if I am a massive fan of Rock and Roll or just of Billy Haley and the Comets? I have bought a cd to get me in the zone to try and build up my choices for rock and roll style bass lines but I mainly like all the Bill Haley stuff, Burn that candle, what a tune!

By the time you would notice any movement on frets near the neck joint the hump around the 7th fret would be massive though, or possibly even buggered the truss rod. The way of adjusting 40 years ago wont allow for some of the super low actions some people like these days, I am lucky that I dont mind a bit of height but I know loads of players that would find even a business card to be classed as high action!

Sorry missed your post Milty. Update then, good and bad news really, had some more x-rays done a couple of weeks ago and it turns out that the diagonal screw that holds the piece of bone on has gone right through and is now sticking out into the crease of my wrist joint which may go some way to explaining the pain at that point! So the good news is that rather than the full ulnar shortening op that would of put me back to day one bass wise and 3 months off work is not being done but the plate that was staying in for life is now coming back out in September, two weeks off work and I am hoping to be able to play bass within a few weeks too? Hopefully that will be the end of it after some more physio to see if they can get me some more strength and movement back as it has stalled completely now so I am not going back until after the op, if I am still having trouble after that then it might be back to the shortening op and from the pronounced lump on that side plus where the pain is coming from I can see that might still happen, if it does I will be up to at least two years from start to finish from the day of the break (nov 2012) to the last physio visit after op number three which would not be until next spring plus three months off and three months of physio again (after that op it will be cast again so it will be back to the start as if I have just broke it again!) ahhhh

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1373098266' post='2133643'] I've always used the last fret but will now try this method as it does seem to make sense Before making a final decision I may head off and ask MDP for his advice [/quote] No dont do that! I will also try the other method of last fret but you can see what I am saying as the last bit of the neck never moves anyway so the only thing other than major router work is either a shim to tip the neck up at the body end if the lowest possible truss rod setting is still too high for a low action or just a playable action on a bad bass, or raising the saddles if the neck is already too high in the pocket compared to the bridge when the desired relief is set. Everyone has a personal taste too so lots of relief but a fairly low saddle height suits some folk even if its technically not right, quite a few people I know would hate a bass set to the [i]perfect[/i] Fender factory settings!

I have recently sold all my 4 string basses, factor in all of the reasons in favour above plus a wrist injury and the 5 strings are staying with me now and I will never go back! Go for it Im not a Dingwall fan but in this case I would say a 5 string Dingwall should at least be worth trying before it is ruled out, it could be just the thing for you?

This thread left me wondering how many others check at the last fret as all the top setter uppers (thats a technical term you know) use the 12th fret, I found this link which goes into great detail about checking at the 1st and last fret of the neck, it even has a photo with the explanation of where to check at the first and last fret below it yet clearly shows the guy using my method of no capo and the 12th fret [url="http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/repair/acoustic-guitar/truss-rod.php"]http://www.fretnotgu...r/truss-rod.php[/url] I think its best to get the neck right from the 12th up to the nut then try a straight edge against the whole neck, if the releif then becomes too much overall it needs a shim at the neck joint before doing anything else, testing and adjusting at the last fret wont help as the truss rod wont alter that end of the neck and in some cases will actually hump up or ruin the neck if you go too far, thankfully mine have always gone back down after releasing the tension but I have seen plenty of humps around the 10th fret or so, no adjusting saddle screws will get you over a hump!