stingrayPete1977

[quote name='alexpea' timestamp='1363620545' post='2014840'] I was always told that the soundpost should be placed 1 or 2 inches south of the G side bridge foot. [/quote] That would be more like mine I think without looking.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1363617795' post='2014787'] Mine had marks in the finish where the bridge had been before they packed the bass so I tried that at first, but then I measured the speaking length and it was a bit short of the advertised 105cm, so I tried moving the bridge further south to meet that specification and the bass sounded better. [/quote] After my last post I did wonder if I could just measure the string length, I will have a look. I looked for any signs of where Gedo had placed it but no joy, I could see where the strings had been in contact with the bridge though and went for that.

I have had a quick look and my sound post is quite far away too, I will square it up and make a little mark for reference next time.

What about from above though?

I have not bought any for a while as I have been using eb ones on my fivers and a pro mate that gets free stuff gave me a load of packs of various makes that I'm using up on my four stringers.

I've always worried that they might eat my frets, used nickel elites for years though, i like them.

[quote name='alexpea' timestamp='1363532483' post='2013701'] yep, was about to say that the bridge feet look twisted. The photo also looks as if the bridge is slightly closer to the E side of the bass, though that could just be the angle of the photo. [/quote] I have since squared the feet up, its fairly centred to the board so that's probably the photo, I will see how it compares to the sound post position. Does it need to be at 90 degrees to the strings? I just plonked it where Gedo had cleary indented the strings before removing the bridge for shipping, after that it was a matter of where the feet would sit flat and even

[quote name='keeponehandloose' timestamp='1363528600' post='2013647'] position the bridge so the Back edge of the G foot is halfway over the soundpost, thats a better guide than the notches [/quote] Ah ok, see how a little knowledge can be dangerous

[quote name='hunt the shunt' timestamp='1363458331' post='2013035'] The title of this thread seems to be suggesting that a five is better than a four. It is not. [/quote] You forgot the IMO

It would make a great Jam night bass for the cocky barsteward that always turns up last thing with no instrument as if the whole evening was a warm up ready for their arrival!

That would be better nice one

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8PC-FLAT-WOOD-BIT-SET-6-32mm-12-EXTENSION-SHANK-HEX-KEY-WOOD-DRILLING-CUTTING-/400333343250?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item5d35ba0a12"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5d35ba0a12[/url] 10mm in as far as you can get it, add the extension bar and go in until you can work out where it will need to get to for the smaller bit to reach the pickup cavity, swap to the smaller one and the ext bar will go as far as the 10mm bit went leaving a small exit hole in the pickup pocket

Ah so you are having a jack socket then, thats not so bad as you can keep the drill at 90 degrees to the body rather than bursting out of the back! You can get an extension bar and a cheap set of flat bits from most diy or B&M bargain type shops, the only problem is that the socket on the bar which has two little grub screws in is about 10-12 diameter so thats the minimum flat bit you can put through as the main bit, than said you can counter sink a 12mm just enough to get the extension in enough so as the smallest bit in the kit pops out if that makes sense?

Some nice ERB notes in this (listen on a proper device) [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5ZeTmpN63Q[/media] I think it works if you can hold the notes, fast riffs become a bit of mush.

Plan C is a chisel and a scratchplate

[quote name='thebrig' timestamp='1363442589' post='2012776'] You guys are brilliant, this post is only a couple of minutes old, and already you have come up with great ideas which should resolve the problem. [/quote] Thats all of my brain power used for this week now though!

Well its quite well stuck in there now

Is the jack socket going on the plate? If not then you can drill from the body mounted jack socket hole through the cavity and on to the pickup cavity.

Drill from the neck pocket all the way down to the bridge area making a hole behind the bridge in a suitable position first then drill from the bridge to the cavity if it isnt already as you will need a route for the earth anyway Plan B is to carefully drill at an angle from both sides and as long as they pass at some point you should be able to thread a pull wire through.

Just purchased this, I made an offer of £26 which made it £29.99 inc the postage, handy to have another tuner to save me using my gig one in the practice room. I thought Artec were a fancy one and have seen a few folk have them, hopefully got a decent little budget setup now [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330795367099?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330795367099?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648[/url]

It has been said before on other threads but the extra string does make the bass sound different, I have owned multiples of the same bass in 4 and 5 string versions and it is there for sure, the argument about it got silly last time as I recall but my view is that both basses sounded great just different other 5 stringers were up in arms at the suggestion of the B altering the overall sound of the bass especially on the open strings.

[quote name='4-string-thing' timestamp='1363433956' post='2012632'] I have the single piezo version of this, £25 off the bay, and it was a bit too thick to fit all he way in to the wing at first, but I wedged it in and tried it. Result, a weak output and not too inspiring, but after filing the bridge for a few minutes and getting the unit to slide fully between the wing and the bridge it was a lot better. I used it on the bass side. It was a good tight fit and no shims were needed. I bought an ART tube preamp last week and although I don't have a bass to use it with (after the little accident) the ART sounds really good with my acoustic guitar (piezo, no onboard preamp) So when I pick up my new bass tomorrow it will hopefully add the magic required. The new bass already has a pickup fitted, but I'm not sure what it is. I'm looking forward to using it at rehearsal tomorrow night, new band, new bass..... Talk about in at the deep end! [/quote] Good luck with [b][i]all[/i][/b] of that

Looks like I did OK then I will look into the Rocktek preamp too

I was typing when the above posts were made, somethings not right there?

Surely a 22 fret neck would just have an overhanging board for the 22nd fret (Like USA Strats) or a longer heel area if its designed to fit a particular body like my Ray 5s compared to the 4s. If so then would it not be easier to cut the heel down a bit to fit snugly into the body's pocket? If it has a small heel then you are back to opening the pocket up or getting a different neck.