stingrayPete1977

Other than a Squier Jazz I dont use much these days as it a 4 string all of my others are in the first group, just dont tell the wife

The MM bridge is thicker and larger, this in itself is the dictionary term for more mass! Also it has solid machined saddles and two enormous mounting points too boot, the G&L is even more extreme as it one of the chunkiest bridges out there, to suggest Leo did not feel a need to improve this area is madness

Soul to squeeze is one of their least known tracks yet one of if not their best, no slapping walking on hands or anything, just a great groove I was at knebworth and he was more solid than previous times I have seen them also his sound for once was really good, gave me Modulus gas big time! As for knocking him I don't know? Each to their own but do not feed the trolls

All sockets now mate on a new house! In fact all burried cables so that's your whole house if it was built in the last 2 years.

I have never played for fear of GAS!

It was because of my temperamental ABM I started doing it

Btw before I got the 3.0 I had a Laney head that cost me £100, I just left it in the van unless it was a wedding/function then I would set it up and leave it at the back within arms reach just in case, it was something to do while the speeches dragged on and on .......

It's more of a clean tone than the Streamliner from everyone else's opinions, sure it's not an Ampeg but it weighs less than 100 of them and so what if you have a sans amp with great sounds, if you can't go through the pa we can't hear you obviously you could get a sansamp or similar plus a class D amp if that's the sound your after £40 on top of the amp would cover almost every situation other than a power cut!

[quote name='TimR' timestamp='1341941774' post='1726705'] Yes. The transformer comment was separate to my answer. But the first part stands. Test BEFORE you plug any of your kit in. So it's a bad idea to have it permanently connected with the rest of your kit. [/quote] In the rack case plugged in is a great place to keep it to save losing it though IMO, plug it in before you start to make sure then pop it back in the rack power point once your done wont hurt anything.

I see not many people are reading the bit about the PA not being able to take the bass, not much use having a DI box! I have a Shuttle 6.0 as my main amp and a Shuttle 3.0 as a spare/for anyone else wanting to use my rig on the night, not exactly hard to carry and both function as no load required DI boxes if that is an option, The valve/FET pre amps can still be used too warm it up a bit. The 3.0 also gets used as my main practice amp with a 1x10 at home, the same or something similar is as they say FTW, not much bigger than a DI box but can get you out of the sh*t where a DI box cant always

Over time the regs will just keep moving towards RCD in all cases unfortunatley the dog and duck are keen to keep using the old Wylex fuse board that was installed when the Beatles were on the bill. We are a bit exposed to this in our musical world which most folk will not realise, as someone who tinkers with old cars when Im not playing bass most of the tools have become either class 2 (no earth required) or even just battery operated (or air), most of our kit uses a good old earth making it an area where its still leaving us open to earth faults where a lot of other pass times or even careers are not, kitchen staff are probably the other main ones off the top of my head where earthed class 1 gear is still the main type of kit used.

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1341907623' post='1725800'] All good stuff then. Thanks again. Another question about watts/driving cabs/headroom etc - I currently use a TC Electronic Classic 450, which I like a lot. Volume-wise I have never had to play beyond 11 o'clock into 4ohms so feel I have all the power I need with that kind of head. With regard to driving the cabs with a more powerful amp, would there be any advantages/[b]disadvantages in getting, say, the Shuttle 9.2 model but playing at lower volume setting [/b]on the amp, as opposed to a 6.2 which I am sure would be perfectly loud enough for my puroses? [/quote] I find that If I use the 6.0 with a 4 ohm cab I can only have it so quiet without it not really sounding right, a bit like an old valve guitar amp needing to be driven at least a bit to get going, Its not a major issue but for quiet practices or even backing an acoustic act I cant drive the output enough with that amp. Its less of an issue with an 8 ohm cab (my 1x12) but its still there and I presume would only become worse with another 300 watts? The 3.0 is great for home use as it has no fan noise (still does not get warm though). No sign of a Shuttle 3.2 then? great little amp

I know what your saying Flyfisher but fuses are still the basis for Automatic Disconection of Supply that essentially the entire regs book is based on, all the calculations are based upon the [u]fuse[/u] values, The probelm is in most cases those values are hard to meet especially once your on the end of 3 50M ext reels! If we could be certain that the values were being met fuses would be OK as we cant RCD is the best bet in most cases. ie a socket circuit in a pub correctly wired on a 32A fuse or circuit breaker with a good earth loop test result will still blow in 0.4 of a second in the event of a short circuit, its not practicle or possible to know this and does not allow for faults occuring to the cables at a later date so only an RCD will do really.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1341937120' post='1726552'] I wasn't referring to the transformer having a fault, but as you know a transformer will have an impedance (or DC resistance when read with a multimeter) I simply wanted to know if the tester unit was meant to be used without anything plugged in to get a proper result or if the loading of the mains transformer on the circuit (if the amp is switched on of course) would interact with the tester? I mean, for example, you wouldn't try to measure the impedance of a speaker whilst it is connected to another speaker cabinet as the reading would not be true. I wanted to know if the tester simply measured open/short circuits or if it relied on resistance too. If it did, would loading on a mains socket cause the threshold for those readings (and alarm) to change. Make sense? [/quote] If its all OK it would read OK, if not then it would be prudent to start at the beggining and work your way back with everything else unplugged, 99% of the time it would be the wall socket or the extension reel feeding the stage area at fault. With other faulty gear plugged in you might get all sorts of variable readings, If the earth light only comes on bright when the drummers dick touches anything connected to it then its probably a bad earth coming good via his penis As much as we poke fun at drummers they can be hard to find.

I did a rewire a while ago and the guy had fitted his own extra socket in the garage for the chest freezer, usual novice mistake of cutting the wires too short to reach, although they did reach with the L and N reversed so he did that then swapped them round in the plugtop for the freezer, Genius

Those are all fairly good reasons IMO Who invented the wheel of fortune adjuster I hope it was not Sterling? Thats for the win, meets everyones wants listed above too.

Who cares about the sound? If it stops the saddles sliding about and saves the skin on my fingers from being torn off Im all for them

If you put a cheap one without the beeper Nigel it would work perfectly, Its a shame they dont make one that beeps if a fault occurs instead of the all clear, (Its like that for when we are testing on our own especially when trying to find an unlabelled circuit, saves a lot of walking!) with the sorts of leads we use you never know where a bad connection could be, I guess we would look a bunch of dicks If we tested every socket in every pub for 10 years with one only to find the multi gang lead in our rack cases had no earth all along!

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1341909384' post='1725837'] Interestingly, after he left Fender Leo never used BBOT bridges again. [/quote] Good point, In fact if anything it was the main area he kept changing from Musicman then again with G&L. For some reason the Fender is too sacred for many to accept the high mass bridge is better in more ways than just tone which is personal anyway, I am man enough to admit that even as a MM fan boy that the G&L bridge design is better

Coming from a guy that can only afford a few really old ones!

[quote name='sime17' timestamp='1341874477' post='1725646'] Thanks Mr. I loved my old Bart loaded 55-02, it was a class act and really nicely put together, just a bit too 'polite'. She now belongs to BC's own mr Chardbass. Not tried the Lakland 01s at all though, or a G&L for that matter, hmmmm... [/quote] I was seriously close to a 55-01 (? 5 string with soap bars) when buying my first 5, very smooth and I really just wanted a 5 string version on my now traded much loved SR4 hence the 2010 SR5, other than that I would of gone for the Lakland

If you need to waste a pint to do it then I'd buy one of the plug in ones instead! Mmm pie chips and ketchup

What's a pack test then?

You mean pat test and that applies to the appliances not the socket outlets, in the op's case notify the venue and use another socket, if they are all bad pack up and leave

You would think the good pa manufacturers would start building a circuit like the martindale into the desk, probably 20 pence worth of bits inside them and would save ages looking for the reason the singer has tingly lips! (I'm a sparky too btw)