
dan670844
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[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1080110' date='Jan 6 2011, 04:56 PM']I think Bumnote might be onto something with regards to budget. A budget head that's giggable would be brilliant. There's lots of people who want a gigging amp on a shoestring budget and loads are forced to go 2nd hand or wait and save. There really aren't a lot of heads around for under £200 that are comfortably giggable, I know it wouldn't meet the criteria of a lot of posts in this thread, but this forum isn't an accurate cross section of bassists, it's people who are interested enough in gear and bass playing that they're prepared to sign up to a site and read about it (and most likely know what they like and either own it or are working towards owning it). I know a LOT of bassists that just play bass, the biggest factor in what they own is how much it cost first, looks second and playability and sound third. Bringing out a cheap head would open up the possibility of getting a stack rather than a combo. If you could bring out a nice head (for the money) and stick it with a cab for the price of an Ashdown MAG, I think you'd be onto a winner.[/quote] Theres not a cat in hells chance of doing it though! an output transformer to cover the usual freq on the bass is going to cost and for that reason it will kill the project stone dead, Yes you can get a torriodal transformer for the power input quite good and cheap enough, valves are getting plentiful, with ever increasing availability, reliability and choice. In fact some of the new production are exeeding the NOS stuff (Shugueng 6l6, EL84 for example) Output transformer is a different story, the only really mass produced (so as cheap as they can be) are coming from Danbury, Heyboar and Hammond, even to get 50watts in that frequency range you are looking at around £100-200 and thats trade. As most of the stuff for suitable bass is usually ultra linear as that is where that where the demand is for output trannys is coming from these days, fact is no one is making them in big quantities and there is some serious amounts of iron and copper in them and its a very labour instensive process and the fact that the market for bass related gear seems to be smaller than guitareds stuff. I have been through this as I had a bass rig made for me a little while ago, getting the components for the builder was not really a problem, getting the output tranny of the right quality for me ( I am a picky was a nightmare and cost more than all the other bits of the amp put together including the finger jointed cabinet!.
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[quote name='headofire' post='1079968' date='Jan 6 2011, 03:19 PM']Aim for tone of course! but how about RELIABILITY?? Thats Ampegs massive problem... and to a much lesser extent ashdowns too. Ampegs SVT classic or VR range have been absolutely terrible for reliability since they moved production to the east. thick end of 2 grand an they just break down. When i toured supporting James morrison Ampeg gave Archie their bass player an endorsement. He went through 5 in a week... one didn't even make the end of the soundcheck. I sell Ampegs and they are addressing this, but theres definitely a market for a high quality high powered head with that type of sound as long as it works and is reliable. You can get the american stuff again now, you have to order it months in advance and its very pricey but it will be a proper ampeg. A little bird told me that Ampeg may well switch valve amp production to the UK, with the exchange rate and rise of shipping costs the big heavy stuff may well come to blighty. A british made Ampeg..... mind boggles but i'd be in the que to buy one.[/quote] Thats why I left them out of my thread!! the modern one's sound totally different, as far as I am concerned they stopped making them in 1983!!! If you want a true ampeg sound buy yourself an Audio Kitchen job, its a sad thing to say. The big problem with modern valve stuff is actually the modern valves they just can't hack the plate voltages, although this is being addressed by TAD and EH now. And to build a proper O/T for a bass amp is an expensive business, but one of the most important things to get right and where the corners are always cut. The answer forget the past, with the exception of PCB's as turrets are amore reliable option i think in the the bass amp situation. But I think Laney have hit the nail big time with the Nexus but no one has realised just yet................
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[quote name='Born 2B Mild' post='1079658' date='Jan 6 2011, 11:39 AM']Hi folks, A new product line is in the making and I could use your help. Bass Gear is commissioning an all valve bass amp head to be made in low volume, by hand, by a reputable 'boutique' amp builder in the UK. The resulting model would then be sold exclusively through Bass Gear but keeping the maker's brand. I know there are good amp builders that will make you a one-off custom job (I use a custom built tube head myself) but the idea here is to go for a new amp that will be a regular selling line. I see it as old school meets modern user. Like new-build E-type Jags use some modern technologies yet stay classic, IYKWIM. I'm interested in what controls, inputs & outputs, power and other specifications, appeal to prospective users. Anything in fact! So please post up your wish list suggestions, however simple or complicated, so that I can take this thread to the amp designer and decide what is possible/desirable. Once we know what the beast is going to be, then we can price it. It's bound not to be low-budget though. Any way, please wish-list away ... Thanks, Phil[/quote] There are two uses for amps 1 the studio and two peformance, you did not state which you where going to bang out so here my take Studio 20-25 watts maxo UL output tranny, forget what was done in the past needs, decent modern power filtering, transformer etc, silicon rectifiers are a must and must be up to the job, i.e no sag as someone else said bias pots for each output tube with easy to get to biasing points (has anyone tried bias the new fender amps, what a nightmare) Avoid EL84 tubes , much better results from EL34 and 6L6 Preamp simple Bassman, B15 etc with the right resistors Performance 200watt max KT88, turrent board, aderquate cooling, bias pots, preamp this is tricky everyone is going to shoot me but for live you really need better control over certain key frequencies, everyone knocked Ashdown and Laney and previously Trace with having a SS preamp or graphic eq etc but for live in the market you intend to go at (i.e semi professional, pub club players) you really need this, maybe you could follow it with a valve stage to warm it up. There is a gem of a preamp valve for bass amps, as it has a really nice tight low end, I have to say though it will probably be a tough job to sell this gear in any quantity as there is a load of decent gear around now that does a really decent job For old school sounds you have Orange, Matamp, Hiwatt etc etc nice sounding amps but with limited eq, great if you are playing in a controlled environment like a large stage etc then you don't need big eq adjustments. (I left out Ampeg!!!) Then we have stuff like Ashdown BTA, Laney Nexus, Markbass valve amp (which looks after its self !!! baising what not), EBS which is aimed at pro geezers who play pubs clubs and bars, which combines the nice valve slam that everyone likes but has modern eq ideas which is necessary to adjust the sound in smaller live environments i.e. pubs clubs where there maybe or may not be not PA sound reinforcement. Then you have company like Audio kitchen and Thermonic culture who are specialists and will make exactly what you want, if you want a sound like an original Ampeg SVT for example they will make it, if you want massive eq control they will do that too I'd say its pretty well saturated and its a pretty small market, but it is changing, if you have something unique and most importantly catch the wave of popularity then you may have great sucess. For example the lightweight switchy stuff is very popular at the moment, I entirely understand this from a weight perspective but from a point of view of playing dynamics which is very important to be they are shockingly poor and i could never see myself using that type of equipment.
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[quote name='umph' post='1077920' date='Jan 4 2011, 09:28 PM']suprised it's actually active! Not the best implementation of it though. Could really do with being driven by a cathode follower and not having the gain infront of it, kinda negates the tonestack. nice to see something different though[/quote] Be interesting to see how it sounds.............. interesting using a torriod tranny too, I hope it's not just because it fits in 1 U rack!! and valves on their side always makes me squeal!
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[quote name='Beer of the Bass' post='1077858' date='Jan 4 2011, 08:46 PM']The valves in the G2 are 6n1p and 6n2p - obscure Russian surplus valves! I didn't find it excessively middly - I can get a good crunchy marshall-ish guitar sound out of it, though it was a bit squashy sounding for bass, which is hardly surprising. The type of tone control it uses doesn't scoop the mids like some do, so that may be what you're hearing. Though if I was starting afresh looking for a tiny valve amp, I'd probably use one of the [url="http://www.ampmaker.com/wf-55-4w-tweed-style-amp-830-0.html"]Ampmaker[/url] kits, as their turret board layout looks much neater than the G2's point-to point style.[/quote] Yes the Ampmaker kits are very good, very easy to make a good job of them. A friend made the PP18 into a head and it really does sound good like a mini jtm45, I was a bit sceptical at first as when i see El84's i always think vox chime but these are super smooth, great for blues. We are going to have a go at the Fender deluxe one, when we get a minute. I am trying to get Barry to do a mini bass amp kit for recording, something like 15-25 watts with a B15 tone stack, maybe 4 6V6's with a lower plate voltage, these are great for bass, this is the valve Ashdown should have used in the little B, we should all get on at him............
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[quote name='Beer of the Bass' post='1077755' date='Jan 4 2011, 07:46 PM']I haven't built the bass preamp, but I have built one of their G2 kits (a 2-watt guitar head). I thought the kit and instructions were well thought out, as it went together without too much difficulty. It sounded great, too. I was tempted by the bass preamp, though I suspect you could put together something similar for less than the cost of the kit (though maybe not - rack cases are surprisingly costly).[/quote] I was also thinking of the G2 as a first go, but the sound clips don't sound so could it put me off! it sounds very middly even for a guitar amp but maybe it was badly recorded, whats the power tube a ECC82?
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www.madamp.biz BP1Mk1 Kit The BP1Mk1 is a pure tube bass preamp in a 19" enclosure with the following features: classic pure tube design with a wide range of sounds Switchable input sensitivity, from clean to crunch with gain and volume control active three band EQ with switchable bass and treble boost Mute switch and output for tuner (active, when preamp is muted) Kit with 19" enclosure (completely drilled and printed, tubes, and all electronical and mechanical parts Additional parts like Knobs are available This is the inside view of the amp, all parts besides the knobs are included in the kit. Soundsamples Samples coming soon Anyone made one of these preamps? looks like a Alembic/Trace ellliot preamp twin ECC83 with active 3 band EQ in a 1U rack looks really cool and an easy solder. I think I could do a better of job of helicoiling the wires though!!!! Cheers D
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[quote name='Talon' post='1076044' date='Jan 3 2011, 07:41 AM']I'd be wary about going to view it...given his/her other items for sale [/quote] !!!!!!!!
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[quote name='iconic' post='1074287' date='Jan 1 2011, 12:24 PM']see, it says so below so I know it has them and I'm not telling porkies. ....but [size=4][b]Jumbo Frets [/b][/size]sounds more like a Blue's Guitarist with a weight problem to me....they don't [i]seem [/i]any different to my MIM P and BB414 frets? Strangely I sometimes hear customers describe their cars to me when looking to part exchange and 'Rusty Scabs' also sounds like a Blue's guitarist Model Name Vintage Modified Jazz Bass® Model Number 032-6702-(521) Series Vintage Modified Series Colors (521) Natural, (Polyurethane Finish) Body Soft Maple Neck Maple, C-Shape, (Polyurethane Finish) Fingerboard Maple, 9.5” Radius (241 mm) No. of Frets 20 Medium Jumbo Pickups 2 Duncan Designed™ JB101 Single-Coil Jazz Bass® Pickups with AlNiCo 5 Magnets Controls Volume 1. (Neck Pickup), Volume 2. (Bridge Pickup), Master Tone Pickup Switching None Bridge Standard 4-Saddle Machine Heads Standard Open-Gear Tuners Hardware Chrome Pickguard 3-Ply Black/White/Black Scale Length 34” (864 mm) Width at Nut 1.50” (38 mm) Unique Features Black Bound Fingerboard with Black Block Position Inlays, Knurled Chrome Dome Control Knobs Strings Fender Super 7250ML, P/N 073-7250-005, (.045, .065, .080, .100) Accessories None Introduced 7/2006[/quote] sorry to be boring................. i only know this as i have just had a old jazz refretted with the correct 6105 wire 6230 - 0.112" x 0.055" (2.8mm x 1.4mm) - The biggest frets commonly available - as good as a scalloped feel. 6130 - 0.096" x 0.047" (2.4mm x 1.2mm) - Tall and Narrow. Our most popular fret size. 6150 - 0.106" x 0.036" (2.7mm x 0.9mm) - The "medium jumbo". Commonly found on Gibsons. 6105 - 0.08" x 0.043" (2mm x 1.1mm) - "Vintage fretwire" - often found on the older Fenders. 6100 - 0.103" x 0.046" (2.6mm x 1.2mm) - The true "jumbo" - approximately the same width as the 6130, but taller. Most modern fenders have medium jumbo, as a previous poster suggested easier to fret without buzzing, but i have found they slow you down a bit, the vintage wire i think allows you better speed, but more fret noise, but i use tape wound strings so not a problem with buzz
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[quote name='ras52' post='1074324' date='Jan 1 2011, 01:08 PM']Hi Guys, I've been playing for a few months after a massive layoff during which I sold most of my gear. I kept hold of a late-70s Precision, bought S/H in the early 80s, which I hardly ever used when I was gigging. My main bass back then was a Wal. Yes I was mad to sell it and I'd love to be able to get another but circumstances dictate otherwise! I love the sound the Precision makes but it's always been a bit of brute to play, as the action needs to be painfully high to stop the strings rattling. Neck relief is set up fine as per the guide on the Fender website, i.e. around 0.03mm at the 8th fret. Looking beyond screwdriver-and-allen-key territory, I'm now wondering about the nut - see pics. The nut is obviously worn, but is too much? The G string sits about 1mm over the fretboard at the nut. It's strung with 040-095s. What do you think? Do you have any recommendations for a trusted tech guy who could look at it? I'm based in Bromley (SE London/Kent). Cheers! Richard[/quote] As a previous poster suggested the nut has most probably been cut so it can be played as a lefty, also cut for 105 gauge or even 110's as they are pretty big 'oles. if this is the case the action would prob have been set accordingly. As others have suggested get it set up with a new nut and the action sorted as you will prob start to knacker the frets at the nut end. Its worth getting the ole girl sorted as she is worth a few quid now. I will also make a suggestion try some tape wound strings, some of the fender 9120 are good, don't be scared of the 110 E string, they are very soft feeling, and they feel low tension and are very easy to fret. They are a session players friend as you can play for hours and hours without any finger burn. Everybody has forgotten about them. But they are great and produce a real tight focussed thump they sound great on old precisions and jazzers as these where the strings they originally came with.
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Am I mad? probably....... but do you amp fixers think this is possible, there are many mods you can make, to make these into uber cool little recording amps for recording guitar. I have a V3 version in the studio doing nothing, as we now have a laney lionheart L5 for this sort of thing, which is an amazing little amp and in a totally different league to the valve jnr. But Rather than prop open the studio door when we are moving heavy stuff in an out could it be made into a bass amp.......???? Obviously the output transformer needs to be changed, a popular choice that people make is,a hammond 12ESE, with these low end only goes down to 100Hz so no good, you would probably need to run an ultra linear hammond something like a 1627, 1620, 1630, give you 20-20khz required I know companies like Rat amps mod these and put a 6V6 tube in, better low end. It has stock a silicon rectifier, which would be ok as its class A i.e always drawing current so no benefit for lobbing a valve rectifier in to get old school sag ( I think silicon is better myself) What about chucking a ECC82 instead of the ECC83 to get less pre amp gain, or what about a E88CC you tnd to get better tighter bass and a bigger sound stage with these? Then what about putting a simple tone stack in, like the circuit out of a an Ampeg B15N, Selmer, I.e. just treble and bass. It would be cool to have a little valve bass amp of 5 to 10 watts, sure we have the Ashdown little B, lovely amp, but its actually blinking loud and dare i say it too loud if you a looking to record live old school bass via speaker tubes i.e. when the output valves are compressing just before break up i.e The Early John Mcvie sound. But wouldn't it be cool for noodling bedroom, practice room, studio, if you could have one of these modded, you can pic them up for about £90 new even less second hand. Isn't it time we had this us Bass players, Guitards (I can say this I am both!) have all the fun!
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[quote name='ironside1966' post='1057612' date='Dec 13 2010, 06:23 PM']Some manufactures ramp all the volume at the front of the pot so people think it’s louder.[/quote] Yep Trace to do that! Dude turn it up to 3.5 4! she doesn't go any louder!
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[quote name='lojo' post='1041486' date='Nov 29 2010, 06:42 PM']Slightly off topic, but in a room last night with supplied backline, trace rig, but I brought my RH450 as I was trying out some settings, anyway RH450 DI into Trace combo, what a sound I did not mess with the EQ on the trace and took no notice of it, but i was really taken by the sound it produced for every setting I had the RH put through it, the trace just did something extra Not sure if it was the trace amp or drivers Strange as ive never been a straight trace guy[/quote] That'll be the massive torriodal transformer! no Class D stuff can match it for playing dynamics thats why Mark King went back to an old Trace Elliot SM in a red box (Ashdown) I did try the TC stuff today I was at a loose end.... Its a bit Swiss Army knife! can see it appeals for the working bass man its all there. Its hard however to add any attack with the EQ, very old school, but cool, very little playing dynamics though as with all switchy stuff, most people won't notice though as its not what they are after, nice but not for me as it takes the expression away from my playing, but I can say that about most stuff these days 1000 apologies for dragging up an old thread, but I made a comment the other day, about DSP, I have mixed feelings using this in a live amp as it can be used in a number of ways if you catch my drift. But ok if it sounds good its ok. Coincidently a mate who is a keyboard player has just bought a new Hammond B3. Instead of the old tone wheels it has 96 DSP processors! one for each key, it sounds good, just like an original. Interesting times as I know of some developments with valve technology which might make an interesting counter punch to the electronic route, yes siree there is some R and D into valves and you should see some new types coming out and into amps interesting!
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[quote name='MarkBassChat' post='1036999' date='Nov 25 2010, 09:39 PM']You mean this one: [url="http://uk.farnell.com/sanyo/2sd600ke/transistor-npn-120v-1a-to-126/dp/1790325?Ntt=1790325"]http://uk.farnell.com/sanyo/2sd600ke/trans...325?Ntt=1790325[/url] Regarding the first one; isn't it the Korean version of 2SD2059 ? [url="http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/69925/KEC/KTD2059.html"]http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/...EC/KTD2059.html[/url] - this one? This is a general purpose 30W NPN transistor. If you can't find exactly this one, there are replacements available. For example 2SD1407 (and many others). Mark[/quote] Thanks Mark, Was able to replace the D600 with an NTE 373, well i replaced twice! as I quickly found the real cause of the problem, a dodgy voltage regulator, lesson learned, will check from that end next time! I must say I am pretty astonished at the poor quality, particulary the voltage regulators in this unit, its from a 'respectatable' well known brand and some of the soldering was shocking, even i can do better!
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[quote name='alondo1234' post='977918' date='Oct 5 2010, 12:28 AM']Hi Ive got a trace elliot gp12smx pre amp. Im wondering if you could recommend a different pre amp valve? The 1 I currently have, which is the standard fitment, gives a rounder slightly warmer sound (very clean if that makes any sence) which is ok however id like a valve which could colour the sound more to give a rock/heavy rocky vibe, that kind of valve overdrive sound (dirty and distorted). Any suggestions would be welcome. Regards Al [/quote] I don't think you will get any proper distortion with this even if you add a higher gain valve, it will just sound fizzy, the purpose of that circuit is to give warmth. Better of shoving a valve distortion pedal in the high effect loop, perhaps a DHX would be best!
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[quote name='porterpr' post='1054952' date='Dec 11 2010, 01:51 PM']Hi Dave I've got a Trace Elliott gp12 smx pre amp could you give me any advice on a power amp that would go with it as I'm not sure What to get (mono amps seem hard to come by) Thanks.[/quote] Any Power amp can provide the noise with these, a stereo one or two channel one is best I will explain in a minute why*. For many years my main rig was a SMX pre and power amp setup, I still have it but its split down into a 4U rack now rather than the monster 12 U it used to live in. The Best way to use these is use these balanced output on the back of the unit which then goes into the power amp. You have two choices either you can feed a full range signal into the power amp then into your cabs, or you can split the high and low into seperate channels or amps /cabs. Complicated but it was high end gear and when these where made full range cabs were rare, you normally had a sub cab for lows and a high cab i.e a 1518 (lows) and a 1048H (Mid/Highs). But all this depends on what cabs you have and what music you play if you tell me I can advise the best way to rig it up. My trace used to have two PPA1200 power amps and ran 4x 410's mental............. mostly for effect... now it has a RMX2450 stereo power amp which is 2.4KW it has to run off a 16amp supply (blue plug) it weighs 60kg. I hardly ever use it, but the old girl has a few tricks, which you can't do with more modern stuff. I can't believe all this old gear is still going, quality counts. To buy this kind of preamp would easily cost £2k these days............ To answer you question though have a look at power amps from behringer the europower stuff is pretty good, reliable, peavey also are good, for top end QSC and Crown but they are expensive for the RMX in the pic you are looking at nearly a grand. For stereo power amps you can either run two full range signals into each channel then drive each cab (if you have two) one on each channel. With the QSC power amp you can run one cab from one channel and leave the other channel unloaded (I have been in touch with QSC about this. You can also bridge most power amps to give you one output. But if you are bridging be careful always start with the power amp off, fire up the smx on standby, then turn your power amp on. Even if the power amp has a soft start you can sometimes get a thump from the smx if you turn it on last. Cheers D If you need any pointers on how to run it, let me know, its a very versatile preamp, any sound you can imagine is there, they have the trace sound but you can turn if off. No good for studio these days to noisy, but for live its still pretty hard to beat, not many people now how to use em properly though to get the best out of it! *I say best use the balanced output otherwise they are a bit noisy, and if there is a bit of a hum flip the ground lift switch.
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[quote name='Delberthot' post='1055619' date='Dec 12 2010, 01:57 AM']Well I'm impressed so far. Used it at a party night tonight so had a good few hours belting out all different stuff First impressions were that a cab that I can carry in one hand and my bass in another is a very good start. Its so light compared to what I am used to that when I went to lift it onto the cab stand using both hands I nearly lifted it over my head. good start. My initial impression of the sound was that for a compact cab, it has an amazing amount of top end clarity and deep bass response. I was really pushing it tonight and went for a dirty rock tone with the boost control on the Gallien as high as it would go. What I was hearing was the distortion created by the amp clearly, very loud and the cone was hardly moving. It sounds like quite a lazy driver if you know what I mean, as was mentioned above, due to the model of driver used but I could still manage a fast attack by adjusting the controls on the amp. It can easily do an old school, overdriven rock tone. This was only its first outing so the driver hadn't yet properly broken in so I am expecting more bottom end when it does. I'm back out next Friday so what I plan on doing is to use the Ibanez that I have on its way soon and go for a much cleaner tone with an active bass to see how that sounds. Early days but I reckon that this is loud enough to cope with a small to medium size pub with no PA support. There is only one thing that I am not keen on and that's the vinyl covering: it looks very cheap and I'm pretty certain that in the wrong hands would be torn and scratched within the space of a few gigs. I plan on buying a cover for it otherwise it'll look like sh*t within a year, even though I look after my gear.[/quote] Well done dude you have broken the mould, and have bought and used something that sounds good rather than something that has a the 'name' on it
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[quote name='dbass' post='1054691' date='Dec 11 2010, 09:13 AM']Hey guys, Just thought I'd get a discussion going on the above topic as just lately the drummer from my tribute band has been driving me insane! He is also my best friend and even though this has never harmed that, it bugs the hell out of me! Nearly every gig he spouts the same "urgh not looking forward to the gig" even if it's at a great venue or with a big crowd guaranteed. He's the most lethargic drummer ever I am weird for looking forward to playing every gig?! (Around 50/60 a year) Do any of you not look forward to playing gigs?[/quote] I guess its just nerves dude, get him to work on his power breathing.........
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[quote name='4 Strings' post='1054618' date='Dec 11 2010, 12:29 AM']I suppose Laney never really got to be a Marshall or Hiwatt and have kept themselves going on a diet of pretty poor quality beginner type stuff, hence his reactionary comment. I have had two Laney things pass through my life, a 30W valve guitar combo and a bass combo used by a mate. Both have been very good, no problems at all. The guitar combo actually is excellent, used by the lad at uni at the moment and its popular with everyone. I have a friend too who turns his nose up at the word 'Laney', his loss, I'd recommend them. Just need to recognise their cheap stuff is just that. Laney is worse than not fashionable, they are unfashionable and so have little second hand value compared with more widely accepted names. I'd happily have a Nexus set up (although I'd like to try one first!) but I would expect to lose a lot if I came to sell it. Do let us know how you get on with it, I Kind of like the idea of encouraging British made gear.[/quote] +1 about Laney sometimes they come up with some real gems, The nexus range is cool, the nexus tube preamp is pretty cool as it addresses the limitations of some tube amps in live situations i.e you can eq out a room properly, and nice to see a 12BH7 in a preamp again just like a proper SVT. Don't know why they bothered shoving a FET preamp in as well, is a bit kitchen sink but there you go! Also the lionheart guitar amps are amazing, really, wow, a guitarist mate Richard has just got one (The L5 for the studio). The sound that comes out of them is really special. On these cabs, they are cool but, as people are saying old school, to get full range you need to use the 4x10 as well, so you need a big old stack, looks cool, but maybe if you turn up at the Rose and Crown with a 400 watt tube amp and a 4x10 1x15 stack it may not be considered 'appropriate' If they have green label cele's in they are designed to sound old school, so job done, if they arent sharp or defined enough for you, you could swap them out for the orange labels for more attack and definition. One thing to be said about Laney even there lower rent stuff is ultra reliable as its very simple, if i was starting out i would defo consider an RB9, if I didnt like the sound I would shove a sansamp on it! Love the fact that both Ashdown and Laney have start to produce stuff in the UK again, gives me a warm feeling inside!
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[quote name='Rayman' post='1047109' date='Dec 4 2010, 09:42 AM']I have my splated maple Spector Euro 4 LX here for sale: I must be insane. This bass is really wonderful. I love how it looks, how it plays, and how it sounds, but it just has one string too little, I need a 5er or 6er. I'm after £700 (reduced from £800), but that's as low as I'll go. I have withdrawn the Ibanez because I love it too much, so it's a straight sale for the Spector, OR a trade for an Ibanez Prestige 5 or 6 stringer plus cash adjustment depending on what it is. I'm open to offers for other 5er and 6ers too though. I'm in Manchester, but travel around for work, so I can meet you somewhere within reason to close the deal. There's no case I'm afraid.[/quote] Wow she's a beaut, hehe are you sure you want to sell it?
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[quote name='dood' post='1053298' date='Dec 9 2010, 08:12 PM']That's an interesting POV! Are you being specific or is it a general tarring with the brush? ;o) - It's ok, I realise you are joking![/quote] He He I thought I would chuck the sabre tooth tiger amongst the pigeons! but noone bit........
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[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='1051574' date='Dec 8 2010, 12:25 PM']It's all here in black and white [url="http://www.tcelectronic.com/testpilot.asp"]http://www.tcelectronic.com/testpilot.asp[/url][/quote] He He no thanks, DSP sucks its not 'real' sound
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[quote name='ianSB' post='1050968' date='Dec 7 2010, 08:13 PM']its hard to choose because i want to stick with ampeg :/ ive had a look at the svt3 pro but not sure whether it would keep up with the guitarists then there the hartke lh500 and orange terror bass its all too hard [/quote] Modern Ampegs don't sound nowhere good as the old ones they stopped making them in 1987
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[quote name='jimwin' post='1038934' date='Nov 27 2010, 04:24 PM']Hi all, This may be a daft question, but is there any way I could control my stompbox effects remotely?? OK - here is the reason why. I have 7 individual stompboxes (mainly EBS) which sit on a pedal board. During most gigs, we get punters to come on stage and sing. Quite a few times, these people have spilt drinks, and accidently stood on my pedalboard . Also, the odd pub punchup with ensuing spilt beer etc. is not great for my pedals! So, I want my pedals out of the way - but obviously need to control them. Could they could be patched into a controller with a separate footpedal I could have on stage. I am thinking this separate footpedalboard would be cheaper to replace than £1000 worth of stompboxes. Any help appreciated. Hope the question is not too stupid! Thanks - Jim[/quote] Have a look at a Roger Mayer misson controller, the base module controls up to 6 pedals but its modular so you can add to it, you can then, put all your stuff in a rack, pedals in a rack drawer out the way.... job done. but then you have an enormous box to lug about so you need to recruit some roadies!
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[quote name='SteveO' post='1050167' date='Dec 7 2010, 08:12 AM']The usual culprit for short lived batteries is leaving the bass plugged in, in this case I think the problem is the Yamaha. My Yam (375) also eats batteries, so much that I get fresh batteries every time I gig with it (which is not often). This has come up a few times in the past on here with yamaha owners. If I knew how to do it or could be bothered I'd see about measuring the current drain and comparing it with other basses. Of course it could be that he's using the batteries that are 10 for a quid in poundland... A quick google shows that a Duracell 9v battery is about 580mAH, but you can get them as low as 100mAH[/quote] I have a RBX374 that also does the same even without being plugged in, must be a characteristic of the preamp, don't use it anymore, really must put it up for sale!