clauster

Bit to the North, but Siggery guitars in Crowborough, up the A26 from Newhaven, are good.

Compression can really make an acoustic come alive

[quote name='seashell' timestamp='1376321038' post='2172089'] Wise words and thanks UB. But I literally think it would take years to get profficient with it. We do do some Green Day. I'm tempted to add 'unfortunately'. Guitarist wants to take us in a direction that doesn't really suit me, I think. We'll just have to see how it all pans out. [/quote] It's not just down to tons of practise. I struggled with pick on and off, until I found the right picks for me, now it's almost as natural as fingerstyle.

Good point

Had some great replies by PM. Thank you.

[quote name='olliedf89' timestamp='1376224186' post='2170917'] Without sounding ignorant... could you briefly elaborate on that a bit? [/quote] Errm, not extensivley. But I do know two things that active electronics (and a lot of pedals) do. They provide a lower output impedance (which preserves the original signal better through cables) and provide a buffer. One or the other or both affect traditional fuzz. The mastotron has a knob you can adjust to compensate for this. I remember, a good few years back, one members quest for a "variable impedance buffer in a box" to achieve the same end. I think.

A pick is perfectly valid. It sounds different to finger-style. Use both techniques. Plus taking up the plectrum gives you avery cheap diversion for GAS until you find the pick that's right for you. You'll find few arguments between double bass players whether to use arco or pizz. Electric bassists should be the same. Use and enjoy all the techniques available to you.

Forgot to ask about bridge? I'm assuming standard five hole is correct? I'm actually tempted to go Badass II, but if I go perios, should it have the barrel type saddles or the screw thread?

Hi guys, You're hanging around in Repairs and Techincal so i really hope I get some good pointers - I'm looking to a build a "bitsa" Fender. But not just any bitsa. I play rock, punk, ska and soul/RnB (think Tamla/Stax 60s not Motown 70s/80s or anything that's passed as RnB since). I want a Fender. I've never got on with Precision necks, yet I've never managed to get a good sound out of a fretted Jazz. I'd love a YOB (1969) bass but I cannot justify the price of a vintage Fender. So the compromise is Precision body, Jazz neck, as close as poss to '69 spec. Choices I've made so far - Warmoth alder Precision body - For me, rightly or wrongly, Warmoth make the best bodies. I can get the wood I want (I believe alder was prominent in '69). Mightymite Jazz neck - The feedback seems to be that Warmoth neck profiles aren't "right". So lets save some money and get something well regarded but at a third of the price. Unless someone can recommend a period correct profile J neck with some nice figuring for less that £300? Pickup - Jason Lollar. I don't care what anyone says, this is the best sounding P pickup to my ears. Yes, Fralins, Wizard, SD etc are all excellent, but this is my personal choice. Electronics - CTS, orange-drop and a standard jack (unless anyone knows better?). Strap buttons - Schaller locks. Not right (at all) but I love 'em and the holes will still be in the right place. Now I need your help (from top down) - Machine heads - what should I be looking for to get as close as possible to what Fender were using in '69? If it can't be achieved, I'll use standard machines (lollipop or clover?), but can I get I get a template for '69? I'd drill to screw holes, plug them and then drill and fit modern ones. Strap button on headstock - still present in '69? Fret wire size - what were Fender using then? A new Mightymite with an immediate refret is still cheaper than a Warmoth/Allparts. Pickuard - 3-ply? Black, tort, white, mint? Knobs - I'm assuming flat-top knurled chrome? Ashtray/finger rest holes - I don't want ashtrays or a tugbar, but I do want an appearance of having come with them. Can I find a template for drilling period correct holes? Finish/cosmetics - Nitro or (I think) poly? What colours were in the P range in '69? I like back or white (should I go Olymic/Arctic/Vintage) and a couple of custom colours: Lake Placid Blue and Shoreline Gold, but were these options in 69? Would they have been sprayed over an existing finish? if so, what? I'm thinking the traditional 70's headstock logo was in use in '69? I'm not planning on building a "ringer". Neck pocket and neck heel will be marked as my personal tribute. No relicing. No attempts to deceive. I'm just hoping to achieve something close to Custom Shop spec at my YOB bitsa spec and at a price to fit my pocket. Thanks for any advice, Nic .

[quote name='olliedf89' timestamp='1376166981' post='2170522'] ...just had an idea... instead of matching my bass' original volume on my compressor, what if I turned the output volume right down low (and compensate for this on my amp vol), would that then quieten the signal enough for a fuzz to handle? Or am I talking out of my backside? [/quote] I think it's more an impedance matching issue than signal strength. Actives have much lower impedance.

I've got small-ish hands but didn't get on with the SS basses I've tried at all. Tried a few (Gibson SG, Fender Mustang, VM Mustang) a couple of weeks ago and they just felt cramped. I think, for me at least, neck profile is more of an issue than scale length.

Tony bought a Fender bridge from me. Prompt payment. Couldn't have been an easier transaction.

[quote name='MoJo' timestamp='1375972568' post='2168118'] I don't want a bright sparkly active sound if I'm honest. [/quote] Although the Pro is active, it's not the modern ultra-brite sound.

Thunderbird Pro has the shape and the through neck, but with a more traditional bridge than the Gibson 3 point design and a lot of tonal options thanks to the 2 band eq. The amount of mahogany in them means they are a bit on the weighty side. Mine's about the same as my RB950.

It's horses for courses innit? My brother plays a 24fret, soapbars, 3 band eq bass which he's had for about 10 years. That's "his" bass. I played mostly P basses for the first 10 years of my playing life. If it doesn't sound like a P bass it isn't "my" bass. We've played each other's basses and can appreciate them, but we wouldn't swap. Passives sound wrong to him, anything that isn't a Precision (or doesn't have a split coil pickup) sounds wrong to me. I've got smallish hands and wrist problems and I don't get on with Fender's Precision neck. At the other end of the scale, I also struggle with Ibanez SRs because they're too much the other way. My favourite neck was a Warwick from about 2005 - jazz nut width, but some meat to the "flattened D" profile and a pretty flat radius. If I had the funds, I'd be straight on the phone to Jon Shuker to order my perfect P bass. If you can get your ideal bass(es) from off the shelf - great and go for it. If not then I'm really happy bespoke luthiers provide an alternative for those who know what they want.

Thread resurrection. Just been looking and the necks and bodies at that price are MIM. The MIA ones are dearer than Warmoth. Plus, as mentioned already, there doesn't seem to be a way to get them shipped outside US.

The 12-180s crop up in the For Sale section for £100 - £150 from time to time.