clauster

Great stuff. Enjoy!

[s]Can I be added to the list please? Tunbridge Wells, Kent. I'm fairly certain I want a second cab to go with my Compact, but am undecided as to whether it'll be a Midget, a Midget-t or even a second Compact. Trying a Midget t will let me work out if I want the tweeter (I've never yet used a tweeter equipped cab where I haven't switched off/turned down the tweeter within minutes) and If the Midget is a better option for me than another Compact [/s] Scrub that, it'll be a while before I get around to adding a second cab and I already know it'll be a Midget

I'm another new-ish LH500 owner - bought it a few weeks ago and thanks to holidays etc I've only had the chance to use it at one rehearsal. 1. As previously said, there is a relay protection on the output. I first tried mine at home, plugged in, turned on, play, nothing, turn up, play, nothing, click, BOOM! 2. I felt the same about the volume. At rehearsal, put everything at 12 O'clock. Okay, loud but not LOUD. Remembered what I'd read about the EQ - Lows and Highs at about 9 O'clock, mids full on. That's a lot better. Also, unlike a lot of amps, there's still a lot more volume to come past 12 O'clock on the volume knob. 3. Bright knob: Like you I expected super harshness with the bright knob engaged. All I got was a bit more treble. But I'm using a BF Compact. With a hifi cab, I can see it might be too much.

I've just done my second Monte Allums kit on the CS3. First on was the Opto+ mod, this one is the opto mod. The Opto+ had virtually no noise, but went through batteries quicker. As I only use pedals live, the noise isn't that bigger deal for me (and the opto is still a LOT quieter than standard). The kits come with all components, solder and braid and instructions. [url="http://www.monteallums.com/pedal_mods.html#cs3optoPlus"]Monte Allums CS3 mods (scroll down the page for the others)[/url] There's a lot of mods for the CS3. My guitarist who mods a lot of his pedals sent me this list and advice - [quote]Reduce noise: replace 1uf electrolytic caps c4, c14, c17, c6 with 1uf metal film type. R36: change 10k to 100 ohm for more richness and depth. c2: change .027uf to .22uf for more bass. c1: change .027uf to .22uf for more fullness and bottom end. c13: change .047uf to 2uf for more bass (suggests 2 x 1uf metal film caps in series). r5: change 10k to 470 ohm for more body. r32: remove 4.7k and jumper with wire for more clean headroom and brighter LED. d10: remove and jumper for more clean headroom. These mods are for guitars but you could probably use bigger cap values to cater for bass frequencies. Use metal film caps for low noise.[/quote]

£800, used, home use? I'd say you can pick any two out of the above three criteria. £800 and used will buy you a lot of gig-able combo: Mark Bass, TC Electronic, Eden, Maybe a Mesa Walkabout, but IMO you won't get the best out of any of these at low volume. Used and home use: Line 6 110, Roland Cube, smaller Ashdown combos, little Eden Combos, Ampeg Combos. Lots of change from £800. £800 and home use: Ashdown Little Bastard and one of the matching cabs? Still bloody loud though

Great stuff and well done!

Another vote for the aged white

From the Terror Bass manual- [quote]Your amp needs to be set at the proper impedance for full power and [u][b]reliability[/b][/u].[/quote]

[quote name='janmaat' post='1334558' date='Aug 10 2011, 09:15 AM']Saddle and saddle only. Truss rod is to adjust for a bent neck. As long as your neck is straight, don't touch it. Saddle up and bob's your uncle.[/quote] Some people like a straight neck, but most basses should be set up with a little relief (curvature) in them. If you play quite heavily then a little more relief may be needed unless you like fret rattle or you want a very high action further up the neck. Some people prefer the peace of mind of getting a guitar tech/luthier to do this. But, if you're sensible, there's plenty of on-line guides to setting up guitars and basses. Patience is the key. I've set up all my basses for the last 20 something years - if the truss rod needs adjustment just do 1/8 turn then leave to settle for a day and see whether you need another 1/8 turn. NB Do not force an excessively tight truss rod adjuster AND always use the correct tool. If it needs tightening, I prefer to loosen a fraction before tightening. If I'd paid a pro to do every truss rod adjustment my Warwick needed, I'd have bought the bass twice over in the time I had it. My advice to you - 1. Play the bass up and down the neck. Does you get fret rattle all the way up and down (go to 2) or more at the top or bottom (go to 3) 2. Raise the saddles a bit (go back to 1) 3. If you get more fret rattle/buzz at the headstock end, you need more relief in your neck, more at the body end means you need less relief. Adjust the truss rod appropriately and leave to settle for a day. Then go back to 1.

[quote name='clauster' post='1327846' date='Aug 4 2011, 09:49 PM']Another happy BF Compact owner. I'd like to add either a midget or (more likely) a second compact one day, but no rush yet. The head I bought to go with it is the Hartle LH500. Not a bad head, especially once you realise that everything at 12 O'clock is not flat eq, but in attempt to see if I could hear how sensitive it was I got out my Ashdown EB180 combo and swapped between the two speakers. As soon as I unplugged the combo speaker and plugged in the compact, THAT was the tone I wanted Now thinking about saving for an ABM500, or a PF500 (as the cab has woken me up to the whole lightweight thing).[/quote] I tried the LH500 with my latest Boss CS-3 (monte allums opto+ mod on this one): much punchier Rather than change the head, I'm going to stick with it for at least 6 months. In any case, I really need to do something about changing my bass more than my amp

[quote name='DirkThrust' post='1332418' date='Aug 8 2011, 05:23 PM']Hmmm.. Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree. In light of this and what Alex says I'd probably be better off looking at the S12 or Compact[/quote] Get in touch with Alex at Barefaced, he will be more than happy to point you in the right direction.

[quote name='joe_bass' post='1332472' date='Aug 8 2011, 05:56 PM']That bbc2 programme a few weeks ago? Yeah was deff a Lakky.[/quote] Cheers, glad I wasn't just making up random facts for myself

And I thought he played a Lakland Bob Glaub

[quote name='clauster' post='1332088' date='Aug 8 2011, 02:01 PM']If you're still looking, you could see if Rich (promoter who does the gigs at the Grey Horse on a Thursday) of Rockin' Horse Promotions could hook you up with someone? [url="http://www.myspace.com/rockinhorsenights"]Rockin' Horse MySpace[/url][/quote] Just realised he hasn't logged in to MySpace for three weeks! Oops

If you're still looking, you could see if Rich (promoter who does the gigs at the Grey Horse on a Thursday) of Rockin' Horse Promotions could hook you up with someone? [url="http://www.myspace.com/rockinhorsenights"]Rockin' Horse MySpace[/url]

[quote name='Panamonte' post='1331624' date='Aug 8 2011, 01:24 AM']OK - probably just a hanger - imagine how many basses you could fit in a hangar?[/quote] Especially one for a Hercules

Another happy BF Compact owner. I'd like to add either a midget or (more likely) a second compact one day, but no rush yet. The head I bought to go with it is the Hartle LH500. Not a bad head, especially once you realise that everything at 12 O'clock is not flat eq, but in attempt to see if I could hear how sensitive it was I got out my Ashdown EB180 combo and swapped between the two speakers. As soon as I unplugged the combo speaker and plugged in the compact, THAT was the tone I wanted Now thinking about saving for an ABM500, or a PF500 (as the cab has woken me up to the whole lightweight thing).

I love the Warmoth stuff, browse their site regularly (and unofficial-warmoth.com too) and am intrigued by the Status replacement necks. Just one question. Are these hybrids Statmoth or Wartus?

[quote name='Low End Bee' post='1303680' date='Jul 14 2011, 04:07 PM']And having listened to your band you would have been perfect![/quote] Thanks for the compliment Would really have enjoyed playing that gig. Might well pop up to be part of the audience.

Oh Jeez, I love playing the Grey Horse and we can normally bring a dozen or more people, so long as we aren't on stupidly early, but our guitarist is away for paternity leave at that time

I'm another Precision man, but at the price you quote the Ibanez SR 500 (and the 600 too) are fine basses. A trusted brand name, quality parts and good quality control. If you really want a Jazz, make sure you go to a dealer with a fair number of them in stock. With Fenders (even with the MIAs) there is a lot of variation between basses that are theoretically the same in terms of sound and weight. Play as many as you can, buy the one that sounds and feels right. If you can get past the name on the headstock, try the Squiers too. A lot of folks around Basschat say that a Vintage Modified or Classic Vibe Squier with new pickups is more than a match for a Mexican Fender.

30 years 3 months 2 weeks ago I started playing bass, although I did take a 9 year break to concentrate on guitar So many high points: Some great and memorable gigs, met and played with some great folks. The best points are those when the whole band plays really well and it all just feels effortless. Reminds me of what I love about music. Lowest point: Music O-level practical. I'd been playing the school's Fender P for three years regularly and I'd been practising my prepared pieces on it for weeks. Walk into the music room - the head of music had part-ex'ed the Precision for a Thunder 1A. Neck felt wrong, active electronics sounded wrong to me and I just went to pieces. Muddled my way through the prepared pieces but the sight reading was hopeless.