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algmusic

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  1. algmusic
    Jazz congos!!! [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sAc12507C4&feature=relmfu"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sAc12507C4...;feature=relmfu[/url]
  2. algmusic
    and now let's look at drumming.. again by'expert' village [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQGrM5HS8vU"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQGrM5HS8vU[/url]
  3. algmusic
    [quote name='guybrush threepwood' post='1168468' date='Mar 19 2011, 04:51 PM']Definitely want to keep this now, as I'm in no rush to sell, and I just tried it out in the setup below... I know mixing different cabs/drivers isn't always the best idea, but this sounds incredible. Punchy and thick, no phasing here! Apologies for being an indecisive little scamp.[/quote] That looks like a very good setup.. the warmth from the orange and the punch and clarity form the MB.. I'm glad you saw sense..
  4. algmusic
    [quote name='Musicman20' post='1166228' date='Mar 17 2011, 08:29 PM']Anyway, they think the SP cabs are a bad idea....not big enough![/quote] I take it a guitarist has said that :-) I guess it's a look thing:-) I thought you had space issues in the van. Also I'm sure they have never heard the SP's. I turned up on one gig with just 210 and lot some really funny looks. At the end of the gig the looks were still the same but they were blown away by the power I got from it with the terror.. If you're not lugging it yourself, +1 with Lozz You'll definitely have fun with the 4x10/8x10 and AD's
  5. algmusic
    [quote name='iconic' post='1165836' date='Mar 17 2011, 02:57 PM']eat more spinach ....I didn't think's that's too heavy, compared to some for what you get?[/quote] My Markbass 1x15 combo was 18kgs.. that's light. You can't say 27kgs is a lightweight cab
  6. algmusic
    [quote name='Linus27' post='1165147' date='Mar 16 2011, 11:27 PM']Nice one, thanks. Just seen the Roland Cube 100 100 Watt 1x12 Cab Combo which is £279. Might just do the trick.[/quote] The Promethean is miles miles better than the Roland
  7. algmusic
    It's £650 and £750.. must admit, I'd rather them separate, but it is cheaper.. I'd like to see if it has the same controls on the back.. i.e. can you add another cab to it.. [url="http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Orange-TB300C-Terror-Bass-Combo-Amp/EYN"]http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/...s-Combo-Amp/EYN[/url]
  8. algmusic

    Battery life?

    algmusic replied to D-COOPER's topic in Effects

    [quote name='bobbass4k' post='1149586' date='Mar 4 2011, 03:48 PM']Yep, digital delays eat batteries like I eat pizza. Get a power supply. It'll work out much cheaper, and it's kinder to the environment.[/quote] +1 just get a power supply. if it doesn't work then, then you know it's the pedal. But it far better for the environment and less stress
  9. algmusic
    [quote name='lowdown' post='1164166' date='Mar 16 2011, 10:29 AM']I agree with all this, after years of playing shows and stuff to clicks, it all becomes second nature..... Even with the click, some musicians play in front, behind, on it etc... retaining a natural live feel. The only thing is that.....it don't speed up or drag - just how i like it.. If you do not want to mess with Laptops etc. Just record the stuff into a DAW, then bounce it down to Mini Disc or MP3 etc - It will be the cheapest way. Garry[/quote] I was in a covers band that did this.. R was the click L was the music... bounced to the iPod
  10. algmusic
    [quote name='Commando Jack' post='1163524' date='Mar 15 2011, 07:08 PM']There are many qualities that make a drummer worth having. Dynamics, musical sensitivity and groove are arguably as important as timekeeping, if not more so. The exception is in a sequenced band, where if you don't play in time, you sound completely terrible, no matter how good your dynamics are. I The reason I don't like clicks when drumming is that, as has been previously mentioned, you tend to lose the click under your drums when you are bang on time, which can be confusing. I solve this by having the click louder than everything else in my ear, until it becomes almost unbearable. Then you have a bloody awful noise in your ear all night! The other problem is that all your power is taken away by a robot - song seems to drag? Too bad. That rock song just a bit too fast so that on a cold night in February the guitarist can't keep up with the solo? Too Bad. Singer misses his cue and you have to swing round the chorus again? TOO BAD!! Aarrgh! The solution? Act like you can't play to a click!! (NB, I haven't tried this and doubt many would, but it's amusing to think that some would do it to get out of the situation)[/quote] Sorry mate, I have to disargee. Its annoys me when drummers use playing in 'groovey' can't be done do a click. You put steve gadd to a click and it still sounds amazing. It's the players ability to be able to make the click feel good. If i'm playing to a click I use in-ears, as it helps you to lock into the click, but your timing comes from being a good player and practicing playing to a click in a relaxed way. At the beginning, I used to have my click very loud, now it's just like one of the other instruments in my mix, like walking down the road with a friend. You don't chase, you just move along with it. The players around you start to realise they need to need to be more sensitive to time and lock into the drums.. which is a miracle for guitarists and singers.. In the long run the band benefits from it. I'e played gigs to clicks and the band didn't the difference to the ones that I used it from the ones I didn't and that's how it should be.
  11. algmusic
    [quote name='honza992' post='1163077' date='Mar 15 2011, 01:53 PM']For Sale only at £500 For sale is my beautiful Fender Mustang Reissue. These are made in Japan so the quality is fantastic. The shorter scale is great if you are physically a bit smaller, battling tendinitis (like me), or just like how manageable it is. I found that the shift to and from a short scale (30”) and a standard bass (34”) took absolutely no time at all. The sound is great, you can tell it's a quality bass. I also have a Fender Precision (USA) and the sound is very very similar – in the mix I think you would struggle to tell them apart. I have had a number of mods carried out, all which were done by Martin or John at The Bass Gallery in Camden, so you know they were done properly: 1. Re-string with D'Addario Medium Scale Flatwound Chromes [url="http://store.daddario.com/category/145858/ECB81M_Set_Medium_Scale_45-100"]http://store.daddario.com/category/145858/...um_Scale_45-100[/url] These are great strings, smooth and warm. They are installed through the body. 2. Hipshot Ultralite machine heads (lollypop) [url="http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=5"]http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?...ct_list&c=5[/url] These completely eliminate any neck dive meaning you don't have to hold up the neck and allowing for a much more relaxed playing stance. I love the lollypop style, giving the bass a real vintage look. These cost £100 for the set. 3. Truss rod access Being a vintage re-issue the Mustang has a truss rod but this is only accessible when the neck is removed. While historically correctly I find it pretty impractical. I therefore had The Bass Gallery rout access to the truss rod in the body. You don't even have to remove the pick guard. They really did a great job, very neat. I have to say though that the neck is very stable as it is – I've barely had to tweak it since I've owned the bass. 4. Fret levelling & set up Martin has done his usual amazing job. I have been struggling with tendinitis so I like the action REALLY low. The fret levelling has made this pretty much buzz free. For most players it may be a bit low, easy to rectify of course. The condition of the bass is generally excellent. However, I want to make sure you know what you are getting, so full disclosure as follows: 1. There are a series of four small dents next to the strap pin, bridge end of the body. These are not noticable from a distance, and I have tried to photograph them. 2. There are a couple of scuff marks from the lead above the strap pin. 3. The holes from the original machine heads have not been filled. 4. There is the remains of sticky white patch on the rear of the head. This was from where a plectrum holder was stuck, though I have taken it off. No doubt the sticky stuff could be removed, I just haven't got round to it. 5. I've only got a rubbish (and scruffy) Rockbag gig bag for the bass. It's a full size one so the Mustang flaps around a bit. It works though. The bass sells for £683 at Thomann. I have probably put in £200 of mods, so I think a price of £500 is reasonable. Because there is no hard case I would much prefer a pick up. That also means that you get to see the bass before you buy. I am in North London. Any questions, please ask! I have previously sold a Fender Precision (USA) and a Lakland JO4 on this site. You can take a look at my feedback here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=29279&hl=honza992"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...amp;hl=honza992[/url] Now the photos.... OK, for some reason I can't post the photos. I get a message saying that the format is incorrect. I am posting the location from the 'share this' option in Flickr. If anyone knows what I am doing wrong please let me know. In the meantime you can view the pictures here... [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7611286@N04/"]http://www.flickr.com/photos/7611286@N04/[/url] (Just in case anyone is interested, I also have for sale a Zoom 708II Bass pedal, a Roland XP50 Synthesizer and a Novation ReMote 49LE Midi controller.)[/quote] where are you based.. I recorded on a 30 year old of these and it was very nice
  12. algmusic
    [quote name='phil.i.stein' post='1163233' date='Mar 15 2011, 03:47 PM']how about loading the sequences onto a loop pedal or a sequencer/sampler, that can be triggered by the drummer ? all this depends on how intricate your sequences and songs are though..[/quote] I've tried that. The drummer still needs to have very good time and if the parts are during the song, it a problem unless it's sweeping [quote name='cheddatom' post='1163235' date='Mar 15 2011, 03:51 PM']I don't understand why it'd be difficult to drum to a click? Surely if you can't keep to a constant clicking, you're not much of a drummer?[/quote] TBH As a drummer and teacher. I think students should be taught to practice with a click and play to music from a backing track or CD, but many are not, so learning it years after is very difficult. It's almost like learning to walk again.. Yes no excuse, but it's not that easy
  13. algmusic
    [quote name='JTUK' post='1163019' date='Mar 15 2011, 01:11 PM']We only run a few basic sequences as always use a keyboard player anyway. The key, as you know, is finding a drummer who can play reliably to click. They all think they can do it but few can carry it very far, IME...and that is ok..until you need to use it. If you have a drummer who can do it, then everyone just plays to him anyway. The kit to run the sequences is the least of it, IMV.[/quote] The problem is not the gear. It's the drummer being able to play to a click. Before you even shell out any gear, try and get the drummer to play to a click to your songs first. If he/she can do that great. It's important that the musicians are playing in time with the drummer or it will sound wierd. I no it sounds weird but people get used to drummers speeding up and slowing down they don't know good time themselves. I usually blame lack of teaching or bad teaching. I've played on bass and had drummer telling me they can play to a click then we rehearsal to a click and they struggled. I've played live to clicks for years on drums and I'd say it took weeks of practice to be comfortable with the click and playing with the band. The band (singer + guitars) will try to push the music faster, but the drummer has to hold it together. after that, yep an audio interface can work with logic, or other sequencing things. depending on how techny you get, but a simple 2in 2 out would work..
  14. algmusic
    [quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1163162' date='Mar 15 2011, 02:40 PM']When people do videos like this, they should really know the amps well, it's not the best overview when he doesn't understand how the amp works properly. In saying that though, GKs aren't the simplest amps to use (mainly the boost knob is confusing to most people, don't think I've ever really heard it described properly). I don't think that it shows the amp in a bad light, it just doesn't show it off properly.[/quote] so add a 15 band eq to the complicated amp and the very confused man and you have...... well a load of **** I think it's because they just want to have a review online.
  15. algmusic
    [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlYn2ZXeYYg&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlYn2ZXeYYg...feature=related[/url] from 00:35 - 01:36 'Rated accuratly' ?? WTF. Based on what??? 'the smallest and most powerful' of what I can think of... just say is very small and one of the smallest.. 5:21 - waffle about eq-ing 7:23 - I like to play with a pick, but I love the sound of fingers??? - LEARN TO PLAY!!!!! - The eq has killed the map setting. 10:00 - I think I know why it's not gigged much in a nutshell, i've been shown why not to have that rig I'm being miserable today :-) it gets worse [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0-HOAUqb3w&NR=1"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0-HOAUqb3w&NR=1[/url]
  16. algmusic
    [quote name='Low End Bee' post='1163038' date='Mar 15 2011, 01:20 PM']Guess what cabs I use with my OTB [/quote] I stand corrected :-)
  17. algmusic
    [quote name='Duarte' post='1134971' date='Feb 20 2011, 11:59 PM']Nice demo ...cheers for the link! I'm gonna go for it. A few days until I have the cash, then it's done. Looking at a matamp 2x12 cab too...then I'm set![/quote] Bloody awesome with the matamp mate.. +1 with the TB. If you want also of flexibility of dials, don't buy it unless you have a very flexible pre amp or active bass. That said. I think you get a reasonable change tone when you adjust the mid dial.., which I think alot of people forget.. I play so many different styles and the only style it wouldn't really work for is if you want a clean very modern HiFi sound.. other go for it.. It'll be easier to shift than the Ashdown... It's great with most cabs.. don't go near TC or simular cabs. It doesn't work, also I've never quiet got on with TC.. Orange, Ampeg, barefaced, MB cabs are great on it.. did I mention, it's more than loud enough to handle a 8x10 in a little tub :-)
  18. algmusic
    Are you selling the just the one 1x12 cab for £475, pardon my inability to read :-)
  19. algmusic
    [quote name='BottomE' post='1161947' date='Mar 14 2011, 04:10 PM']Its me again with the TC212. Whatdoyafink?[/quote] I had a go a few weeks ago and it's not quite my sound
  20. algmusic
    BUMP
  21. algmusic
    [quote name='Rich' post='1160871' date='Mar 13 2011, 07:01 PM']Ahem, shall we try this one all over again chaps? All posts except the OP deleted. And as a reminder... [size=3][url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?act=SR&f=20"]Buyer Guideline No. 5[/url] -- If you believe the price of the item is too cheap/expensive, then please PM the seller as to why. Do not ridicule or undermine the seller by posting how much you think it's worth or how much it can be gotten for elsewhere, the laws of supply and demand will determine if the item sells at that price.[/size][/quote] Naughtie Naughtie.. Good luck with the sales Rich
  22. algmusic
    [quote name='geoffbassist' post='1157754' date='Mar 11 2011, 10:23 AM']It's not a problem not getting paid for playing if no ones making any money (eg original band night in little pub). If it's a professional ticketed event I can't see any reason why you shouldn't be paid. I would rather rehearse for nothing than be exploited at a festival. It just makes it harder for every other tribute band if you do it for nothing whilst they try to negotiate a fair fee. If there's no expences then in real terms it will cost you.[/quote] I agree, by beef is the middle ground venues where promoters are making money off the back of a bands who get nothing. But I blame the bands. I think it's important for bands negotiate. First gig free or expenses, next gig if better some form of fee. If all bands did this the good bands would have more chance to get off the ground and the bands, would have to work harder..
  23. algmusic
    [quote name='Blademan_98' post='1157447' date='Mar 10 2011, 11:36 PM']Funny that, people taking advantage of less well known bands to give them a boost. It is a real shame that promoters can't just be fair and atleast give the lesser bands a bit of dosh to help them out. The music inductry sure is tough. Chatting to a friend who is in an originals band he says he rarely gets paid gigs. That's very sad [/quote] The reason is simple. Too many original bands will play for free
  24. algmusic
    [quote name='Roland Rock' post='1157373' date='Mar 10 2011, 10:50 PM']Two words that rhyme with 'duck fat'? From Doddy's reply above, it seems they pay decent money for bigger bands, but seem to take advantage of less established bands[/quote] I just noticed a friend and fellow muso played for Blurb on drums.. he wouldn't do that for free. I guess he was in the first group you mentioned
  25. algmusic
    [quote name='Nickytwister' post='1157229' date='Mar 10 2011, 09:10 PM']Chris! Cheers for the message today fella. The Sabre went long ago I'm afraid! Shame you're selling the Bag End; I've got my DB112s now but, strangely, miss the sound of the ol' dog. If it wasn't for the boiler, washing machine and motor all being in sickbay I would've probably bought it back. Still might in fact. I'll keep my eye on the thread![/quote] If you want to sell the DB12's, let me know :-)
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