Alec

Another happy RH450 user here. Yes, the knobs are a flawed design and will eventually lose their grip and fall off if they get any kind of abuse (typically in a bag). But TC will send you replacements free of charge. Alternatively, a turn of tape around the shaft will get a better grip on the knob (fnar fnar). The differentiators of this head for me are the decent built-in chromatic tuner (much more capable than the one in the BH), the immediacy of the Tubetone, and the decent compressor. And the lights round the dials mean no messing about on a dark stage. My one gripe with the RH450, where the compressor is a shift function, is remedied by the RH750. I could never justify replacing my 450 with a 750, but that made it just about perfect in my view. Like Richard above, mine feeds a Genz NEOX212 with more power than I'll ever use. Makes it very handy when we kitshare too...

Years ago I got a Genz Benz STL-10T. *Slightly* smaller than the One10 and about the same weight. Prodigious output, but not enough for a loud band in a big venue (surprise). If I were buying now, I'd probably go for the One10. The Midget might be more capable, but it's bigger, heavier, and double the price. The extra weight alone could well preclude it from your target use. I use a laptop bag for the head (TC RH450) & gubbins. That makes everything a manageable carry - bass on the back, laptop bag over the shoulder, and cab in hand. For the first time in my life, the bass was the heaviest item and the cab was the lightest....

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1507474193' post='3385692'] The standard corner radius in the US is 3/8 inch. [/quote] Which, when converted from US antiquity to International standard units, is 9.525 mm, so pretty close to 10mm

[quote name='Treb' timestamp='1489313868' post='3255877'] I guess they wanted to stick to the small form factor. A speakon out is bigger than a jack out.[/quote] That's just bobbins! If they can fit an XLR on the back, which they have, then they can fit a Speakon - best of all, fit a Speakon combo and you can use either connector. [quote name='la bam' timestamp='1489829501' post='3260125'] 3) with big trace rigs going at ridiculously cheap prices second hand, I'm not sure I could justify this set up for 3-4 times more.[/quote] The weight....

Of course, most TC owners will post that they like them. Like any amp, there will be those who've tried and didn't like them. Common reasons include: lack of perceived grunt, TC lied about the power of the RH450, GAS took them elsewhere. I love my RH450, so much so that I have two of them - one for my 2x12 gig rig, and one for my 1x10 home rig, which gives me a spare. If I were buying now, I'd buy the RH750 - not for the extra power or the tweetertone, but mainly to give me the Spectracomp on the main front panel all the time, rather than tucked behind the shift mode. I was less excited by the speakers - but that was more the form factor than functionality. Key features for me: lightweight, compact, powerful, built in tuner, compressor & valvetone

[quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1486770676' post='3234538'] I dont really want separates. I already have 2 Markbass Cabs and a Carvin head, but i like to keep them packed away for gigs / rehearsals. So the combo would be for impromptu stuff, which would save me lugging separates around.[/quote] Trust me, there's *nothing* impromptu about a Trace 4x10 combo. I had mine for around 15 years, always enjoyed playing it, always hated moving it. The day I got rid of it for modern lightweight kit was simply transformational - the sight of stairs no longer make me descend into a pit of despair! Mine was the GP12SM, which was followed by the SMX. The SMX combos had a different porting arrangement, added a valve stage, compressor, backlit controls. Weight: 60kg, if I remember correctly.. GP12SM - late 80s GP12SMX - early 90s

[quote name='fftc' timestamp='1486372485' post='3231097'] I had another look at the TC. About 1 minute 45 into this video is the nail in the coffin for me though! Did I mention I play a P bass with flats? [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WFrPr_40d8"]https://www.youtube....h?v=3WFrPr_40d8[/url] [/quote] Not sure what the nail in the coffin was? If you're saying that you're a one sound man, then I don't see the problem - just because the amp has TonePrint doesn't mean you have to use it! Though you just might find a good sound from it... I'll confess to liking the TC bass heads, with a couple of RH450 heads. The BH250 is a great tiny amp - and don't discount the benefit of the built in tuner - remember, the best tuner is the one you always have with you, and which doesn't have flat batteries...

Without knowing which Evox system you've got, and what levels you play at, I'd suggest it's worth checking that your PA has the headroom to cater for your bass with no cab backup. You could do this by simply plugging straight into the mixer and standing out front. Give it some full on gig level playing at a rehearsal and confirm that you're not running into limiters (too hard) and that the sound is not breaking up. As long as that works out, then you could be good to go - and that's where you can start on your pre-amp quest...

While I'm nostalgic for my old depleted uranium 4x10 TE combo, I'd *never* gig with it again, and continue to celebrate my move to the light-side. I think their Elf amp looks a reasonable, low risk attempt for sales. If it delivers what it promises, then it's not bad. Surprised not to see a matching cab, though. And rubbish that it has no Speakon out. Price will be key. The two floor pre-amps look quite decent and, if they perform, I can see them being reasonably popular. Just not my cup of tea...

1987-1990 HH Bass Baby 1990-2010 Trace 1210 combo 2010-eternity TC RH50 head & GenzBenz NEOX-212T cab Not too shameful...

What are your current tops?

[quote name='Musashimonkey' timestamp='1470399572' post='3105744'] Wow, this got technical quickly! I was expecting a debate on wether it's actually called a 'kettle' lead to ensue! [/quote] The problem is, while you can use an IEC C15 kettle lead in an IEC C14 inlet for any typical audio gear, you can't use and IEC C13 (typical audio/PC lead) to power a kettle via its IEC C16 inlet, owing to the ridge in the IEC C16 inlet which allows only IEC C15 connectors to mate. This restriction is all down to the IEC C15/C16 combination being rated for hot conditions, i.e., boiling water. This [url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320"]Wikipedia article[/url] does a reasonable job of describing the connectors. IEC C13/C14 - IEC C15/C16 - (kettle lead) I guess so few of us use kettles with plug/socket connectors that we've forgotten the subtle differences...

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1469797888' post='3101125'] I was quite surprised when I took my old GK 200MB combo apart at how thin the speaker wires were - must have been about .5mm cores, and the wires are 25cm or more long. [/quote] And that's the big joke with all the "super cables", that they're only part of the signal chain. For short amp-cab cables, nothing huge is required. Doesn't stop 2.5mm or 4mm cables feeling and looking more serious. And, for the cost, it's a tiny premium for the "joy of ownership". And nothing wrong with over-thick cables, as long as they don't sacrifice flexibility.

[quote name='4stringslow' timestamp='1469801522' post='3101177']So, for most** UK kettle leads it's ok to use a 13A fuse. [/quote] If it's a kettle lead, then you'll need a 13A fuse, as most kettles are around 2,500W, and so will draw more or less the full 13A. If, as others have observed, it's an IEC lead (as it will be for supplying kit), then all of the previous posts make it clear that IEC connectors have a 10A rating, but may be fused at 13A. And, in practice, that makes the most sense for a generic set of IEC leads. After all, they will be swapped between different bits of kit, which puts lower fuse ratings at much more risk of being blown.

I'd be tempted by the [url="http://www.tcelectronic.com/bh250/"]TC Electronics BH250[/url]. Tiny, lightweight, has aux-in and headphones. Also has the TonePrint feature that you could use as a very capable compressor, but with simple control, and a built in tuner. Price new only £210, s/h typically £150. Looking at all the other suggestions above, the TH350 lacks aux-in & headphones. The MB200 & Puma 300 have these, but still lack an inbuilt compressor.

The 300 line is a pretty old design, albeit slightly pimped in its latest guise. Price/performance improvements have been pretty bountiful in the last few years, which mean that some of the good more modern kit is just fantastic in comparison. Fine to get the older stuff if there's a really sizeable discount on contemporary gear. But if the difference in price isn't too much, get some newer better stuff.

The 312As are active, so they drive themselves, and have suitably rated amplification (presume you were looking at the rather rarer passive versions). But yes, with PA as with bass gear, things have moved on so much in the last few years that you don't have to put up with heavy/big/poor sounding any more. Light, compact, fantastic sounding gear is now well within reach. Which makes me superbly happy - it's a great time to be putting together bass or PA kit!

Here are the specs, straight from the horse's mouth: Art 312-A (original): [url="http://www.rcf.it/products/pro-speaker-systems/art-series/art-312-a"]http://www.rcf.it/pr...eries/art-312-a[/url] Art 312-A Mk III: [url="http://www.rcf.it/products/pro-speaker-systems/art-series/art-312-a-mk-iii"]http://www.rcf.it/pr...rt-312-a-mk-iii[/url] Without delving into them in detail, the originals were heavier and slightly less potent. Having been through a few ART systems over the years, I'd advise going for something newer, as the original 312s are quite an old design by now. Not sure quite how cheap your pair on offer is but... Things you could think about (which all have higher peak output than the 312s): Art 722 - phenomenal output. Plus, with the larger HF driver, they do a way better job on vocals than the 1" driver (they are to the 712 what the 322 was to the 312) - which would help you in your situtation. Quite pricey, though if you're near Preston, there's a pair on ebay for £700. I have a pair that I spent too much on, but they sound fantastic. Art 710 - don't write these off. I've got some of these, and they hold up well to even the old Art 325s I had for a while. Brilliant bottom end extension, and only 11kg if you get the original version. A pair on ebay for £710. Very portable - and sound much better than they have any right to. I frequently put these into action on foldback duty - if they can cope with Bad Manners' horn section, as they did the other week, then they can cope with almost anything) Yamaha DXR12 - these receive much love, and sound great, though I haven't played too much with them. A pair new for £850 from Bonners

Listen, just forget all the voodoo concerns. Neutrik know what they're doing and they make conductors that work. I don't buy the whole 4 pole is more secure than 2 pole thing - though it is possible that amp/cab manufacturers are going cheap and using non-Neutrik sockets, in which case all bets are off. Years ago, the 2 pole Speakons were rubbish with their awkward twist ring to insert/remove, and that was enough to persuade me to go 4 pole, simply for the better form factor. In the current guise, however, they're both fine. If you're not bi-amping, just get pairs of NL2FX, connect them with some decent cable (which the OP already has), and the job's a good-un. [quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1453650399' post='2961385'] One of the US makers (can't remember who) do not conform to this standard. [/quote] Head in hands... Those crazy yanks. Not content with giving the world Trump, they foist tricks like that on us...

That does *look* about right, and appears to match the ruler shown in the picture. Better still, you can remove your broken caster and compare dimensions with the PDF drawing to confirm it it's an exact match. Surprisingly low capacity, 16kg, mind. Maybe no surprise that it's failed if that's the spec of the original, given that the cab is 24kg. And, of course, would be better to be able to order from a UK source...

Pics from ebay of a pair of "genuine GenzBenz" spares (sold). But better pics.... [url="http://www.ebay.com/itm/replcement-caster-wheels-for-genz-benz-neo-2-12-2-nd-version-or-uber-cab-/191761830118"]http://www.ebay.com/...b-/191761830118[/url] Though damn those daft Americans with their old non-metric rulers...!

Why not try calling? Can get a better response...

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1452006890' post='2945423'] I've checked the 1x12" specs. Humm... $800 + VAT + Import Taxes for a 15kg cab that "only" puts out 350W... [/quote] It doesn't "put out" 350W, it is rated to run at 350W. The actual SPL output will be hugely dependent on the speaker's efficiency, in conjunction with the power used to drive it.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1451986773' post='2945168'] If I practice I'll usually play the bass unplugged. I need to get my ideas into my fingers. I don't have to wow myself with my tone. [/quote] +1 It may not be flattering, but "practise hard, play easy"!

Do try Mark at BassDirect at the same time, though. As I have no idea how active that support email address is likely to be. And there are a whole load of other (US) organisations listed on the GB website. They might also be able to help if you get no initial joy.