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mcnach

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Everything posted by mcnach

  1. The charger box form was a big factor in my decision. I find that very convenient. Live I often use a Joyo guitar wireless (JW-06 I think) system that uses the same method, and I really like it.
  2. 14ms is not far from what I would expect for units of this price range, especially those that do not clearly advertise the latency (those who do is because they hace reasonable numbers, those who don't... tend to have high latency). The Lekato MS-1 states 12ms, for example. 14ms is perfectly usable, but quite close to the point where latency will be noticed. The problem is that if you have other digital processors in your signal path, they all add some latency and you'll reach the point where it's noticeable much sooner... but for a lot of people this may not be a problem. I've ordered the WP-12. At that price it's almost rude not to
  3. Here it says latency is 3ms! I very much doubt it, but I'd be very happy to be corrected. If it's under 6ms I'd get one, now that I'm trying to get our band on IEMs, to have a couple spares (Lekato and this). I expected it to be 10-15ms. https://www.amazon.co.uk/M-VAVE-WP12-Wireless-Guitar-System-black/dp/B0F6DB9QD6
  4. The main drawback with these cheap units tends to be their high latency: ok on their own, but if you have a long list of digital devices in your signal flow it all adds up. I got ages ago a Lekato MS-1, which works quite well. It has a bit of hiss compared to my MiPro58, but they're pretty nice and my signal path is quite simple, so the 12ms latency is not a real issue. I still prefer the MiPro58, but those cost me nearly 10x what the Lekato did. And these M-VAVE ones are even cheaper, and I really like their charging box design. Do you have a figure for their latency? It's not mentioned on the AliExpress ad.
  5. I feel like you're looking at me when you say this. 😄
  6. Frankly, I'd redo the wiring from scratch rather than trying to find the specific problem. The soldering looks pretty untrustworthy in general. You'll probably save time by redoing it completely (it doesn't even take that long), and then you'll know it was wired carefully. I'd reuse the pots, unless you have suitable 'known-good' at hand, they can and do fail, but not as often as what bad soldering does.
  7. I saw a singer once stop the band and announce that they were going to stop for a minute as someone had something very important to say, and pointed the mic at the offending person. 😄
  8. The battery on any of my active basses tends to lasts many months, usually well over a year. Once you figure roughly how long you can go I find it simpler to just replace batteries regularly. Having part-used batteries and fully charge ones to alternate with seems like faff that can only lead to mistakes. I change my battery once a year, done.
  9. Same. They/I would not be asked back unless they performed well.
  10. It's a tricky one, do you go ahead with people that do not have the same commitment that you'd like so that you can go ahead and play, or do you wait and keep looking until you find the right people? If people "don't know how to say no", that's going to be problematic. I would not like to have to rely on those.
  11. Now, I totally get that. The hardest part for a band is to find the right members, I think. If they join you and don't go prepared to rehearsals, then they are not a good fit, that's all. I endured a few bands when starting out, trying to make every situation work. Eventually I realised that learning when to quit a band was a very useful and powerful tool. I think it extends to choosing your bandmates: if somebody is unreliable, I will not have them around, full stop, and replace them with somebody else who is reliable. If I didn't, I'd probably be typing lots of posts in the Daily Annoyances thread 😄
  12. I don't fully get the question. They're adults: they manage themselves. They know what the expectations are, how often we're aiming to play, how much time they are likely to need and what sort of availability, etc etc. If that works for them, then they make it work. Motivation? They have to like playing with the band, that's all it takes really. There's one guy in particular playing with us, trumpet, who makes a lot more money with other gigs than with us, but still plays most of our gigs. He just likes to do it, so he makes it happen. If somebody is a problem with their level of commitment or creating scheduling issues, then THEY are not motivated enough for that particular band. It's not down to me to change their mind.
  13. Indeed. With regards to deps... I was with an originals band for just over 10 years, we didn't use deps for that one. The chemistry among us was a big part of the band (which varied between 6-9 members). Sometimes we'd play with one or two members missing, which was not ideal but it still worked as long as the "core 5" were there. But for most other bands there would be someone who could step in if needed. Deps are very useful not just to book gigs when someone is not available, but as insurance against illness, for example. At the moment I only play with 2 bands, plus dep with others occasionally. The main band has a number of deps, for everything except main vocals (we're a 6 piece). They've become part of the band, they just don't play as much as the designated main player.
  14. I'd argue that it was precisely being in multiple bands in different styles that helped me "learn to learn" songs quickly. The only bands I need to spend more time with are the ones playing originals, because the creative process just needs attention unless you just want to play root 8ths. I think that when things don't work is not so much because you're in one or three bands, but because someone is just not being responsible about it and those are trouble regardless how many bands they're in. Committing to a gig and later coming with "oh, I didn't realise that blah blah..." is not going to happen often, it's a 'sackable offence' as far as I am concerned. You just need to find people with your same outlook, like with anything else, really.
  15. If you're in a pro touring busy band that pays your bills, sure. Otherwise... why? I mean, there's nothing wrong with a single band if that's what you want, but it's far from being the only way to do things. I've played in multiple bands for as long as I remember, plus I'm in the dep rota for others. I get to play different styles, originals and covers, and with different people, which is useful besides the obvious networking effect.
  16. Yes, the Behringer MS8000 is quite handy. We've got two of those (each has 8 inputs and 16 outputs) in a little rack case so that we can use one split to our mixer for monitors as usual, and the other split for FOH. https://www.andertons.co.uk/behringer-ultralink-ms8000-splitter-8-channels/
  17. The good news is that when you do find that place, you might find a couple of missing socks and a fiver.
  18. Two channel digital delay, 4 modes (copy, analog, modulation and reverse delay), it can take a footswitch (not included) Great condition, home use only. Price includes UK postage. edit: not sure why the photograph doesn't show :shrug: so let's try this
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  19. Bass Big Muff, very good condition, just a bit dusty.
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  20. Tiny overdrive, particularly good at low gain thick bass overdrive tones that retain the low end. Very small consumption (manual says 6 mA) and according to Mooer: "very small and exquisite" 😄 It also says, about its 2-mode operation: *HP: High peak mode, boost up the bottomend, when increasing distortion by Drive knob, you will get more volume and a slight increase in high-mid range (around 3.5KHz) *LP: Low peak mode, color up extreme little to the original sound, very nice for clean boosting The pedal is in excellent condition. Price includes delivery (UK).
  21. This stereo pedal has three distortion types, can save up to 3 presets as it is without any additional gear. It can, of course, be used with the Neuro hub etc and MIDI for maximum control and maaaany more presets, but I never really explored that, the pedal does all I wanted as it stands. The Neuro app, however, is very handy, as it gives you access to many parameters. The way I used it was to create the basic overdrive/fuzz sounds using the app, and then just rely on the unit's physical controls to adjust drive, blend etc to taste. It's essentially 3 dirt pedals in one, and you can modify each until you are bored . It can run two of the distortion engines simultaneously, and blend them, stack them, or output them in stereo. It can do too many things to mention, so if you're not familiar with the Aftershock it's probably best to have a look at this: https://www.sourceaudio.net/aftershock-bass-distortion.html and this (the demo focus a bit too much on the higher gain sounds, but it's excellend at low gain sounds too): It has heavy duty 3MM velcro on the bottom, which of course can be removed. The original rubber feet were never installed and are included, as well as the cable to connect it to your phone to use the Neuro app, which gives you access to a huge array of parameters.
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  22. MarkBass Superbooster pedal in very good condition. It combines a clean boost (it's called 'boost' but it can be used to set a lower level rather than a boost when you press the footswitch), plus the classic controls from the Little Mark amps: Vintage Loudspeaker Emulation (VLE) and Variable Pre-shape Filter (VPF). The VLE acts much like a LPF, and the VPF is a bit like the contour control on many amps, that scoops the mids while boosting lows and highs. It's also a DI box. Underneath it has a little switch to select whether the bypass is buffered or 'true bypass'. Original MarkBass 12V power supply included. Despite running on 12V, I can confirm it runs well at 9V. I used to run it off a Voodoo Labs 9V multipower supply. It does feel like there's more headroom at 12V but I found the difference not worth using a separate power supply for it. Price includes delivery in the UK (1st class, signed-for). Here's the blurb from MarkBass: https://www.markbass.it/product/super-booster/ And the pedal itself...
  23. I don't know what's going on with the pictures... 😕 If you copy/paste this into a new browser window it should display: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/dmc0qsstctanrv5a9dkpl/IMG_20250511_142124.jpg?rlkey=30q3y5x613v5lnlhes6eqtm51&dl=1 It's the yellow one: https://www.markbass.it/product/markbass-mb-octaver/
  24. The WS70 works on UHF and yes, there's compression/expansion going on with those systems, typically. I haven't noticed noise with the WS90, 'though. It's true that I do not use overdrive much, but I can't imagine how using overdrive or not could affect the inherent noise of the unit... hmmm.
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