mcnach

Model T??? I don't see the similarity (although I still find it very tasty ):

I have the ACS Pro 17s. For a while I preferred the Isolate earplugs. They cut a LOT of noise, but I could hear myself better. However, they do isolate you a little too much. The ACS 17s seem perfect for me. I'd start with those, you can always get different filters afterwards, but higher than 17 is going to be quite isolating.

Well, it works. It's already been on a trip with one of my bands, protecting my amplifier in the back of the minibus surrounded by various speakers, combos, assorted PA equipment and drumkit, cases... What I like: VERY light-weight, very easy to fit in the amplifier and cables, nothing moves, nothing rattles, enough foam all around to absorb the energy of a drop, and the plastic is rigid enough to protect from hits. The foam is very easy to cut to size. What I don't like: Not the most durable. I am sure it will last as long as I am reasonably careful. The hinges look a little exposed so it's not something I'd like to throw about. It's no match to a Pelican case... but neither is the cost. I carry my amp myself, and I load/unload the van so I am happy it'll be ok. It's been ok with far less protection than this... The latches close solidly because of the 6cm foam block. Without it they could open too easily by accident. It's important that there's enough resistance from the foam inside. Even then, if this were to be handled by others, I'd probably put a velcro tie or something on the handle to prevent accidental opening. It's VERY unlikely that it can open... but not impossible. The foam is ok, but I had originally planned to cut another cavity for the cables on the side... however I felt the amp would not be as solidly held in place, so I decided against it. Power cable just sits there, and the speaker cables under a false bottom under the amp. So far, so good. But I think eventually I'll find another case and use this for assorted cables etc.

can you get pure nickel strings?

This. Especifically Labella White Nylon tapewounds. Both the standard white or the copper varieties work well. The Gold is a little too brittle for my taste. They can be very bright, although nothing like new roundwounds, and can do toppy and aggressive. But if you bring the treble down a bit (passive tone controls work very well with these) you get very warm tones, with strong low mids and nice tight low end without getting boomy. Fat, with definition, warm... You can tell I love these They are very flexible, the 50-105 gauge feel a lot lighter than what the gauge would suggest. Very easy to bend too... which can be a good or a bad thing: I found it very hard to not bend strings at every occasion when I first got them

I have a Nano too, that's the 'compact' one I use. The other one is something like 75cm x 35cm, so a Nano+ was still going to be a bit small to be able to replace it The Rockboard CINQUE 5.2 is 61cm x 41cm... but it allows to mount the power supplies underneath and all my pedals fit in really nicely. In fact... I can mount more! But I'll try to resist...

Never tried one... but for that money and knowing some of the other stuff they and Behringer do... I doubt it'll be terrible. I have owned and played a few Behringer bass amplifiers and they all did the job pretty well. Bugera is supposed to be a little better, if anything. Just don't pay much attention to the 1000W thing in the blurb. It isn't. But it doesn't matter. It's probably a 100-250W combo, which is very reasonable for the format.

And a better protective case, for not that much money... here: See thread here: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/331800-amplifier-case-mesa-d800-here-but-others-too/

Looking for ways to better protect my amplifier when being loaded in the van with everything else... I came across this plastic case for around £22. https://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/17051n-079-gpb/plastic-case-515x415x135-black/dp/SG33316 They come in various other sizes, and colours... I went for the black one. It has two layers of foam inside, and I bought an additional 6cm thick block of foam, with precut squares, to allow perfect fit of anything else you want to put in there. Total £34. It arrived today. First impression is good. Not the sturdiest thing (hinges and catches will not last a lifetime), but considering the light-weight of these amplifiers, I think it's a good match. Very light too. It'll fit the amp, cables... and there'll probably be space for a bit more. Pictures to follow...

It helps, but this kind of thing is better fixed at source.

A while ago I had a lovely Tanglewood with that issue. I went to buy nail varnish... and I could not decide whether to buy clear one, or coloured: they had silver, black, metallic purple... The male assistant came to see if I needed help. I very casually told him what I needed (fast drying) and what for... he didn't seem surprised and showed me a range that were cheaper, fast drying, and came in a range of beautiful colours. I even bought a red one to retouch the body of a guitar as well. You can do that... or ground the polepieces, which is what I ended up doing. You just need a bit of foil (or that copper tape with conductive glue, that's really handy) to touch the polepieces from below, and connected to ground. The static noise I see you dealt with already. Just make sure that everything (that needs to be connected to ground) is connected to ground solidly.

TE sounds old fashioned? Meanwhile we play basses largely designed 60 years ago... edit: to add the question mark I missed

Ah, it looks like the SA Tap-tempo switch can be used to toggle between 'channels'... so if you set up a preset using two different overdrive engines on each channel, in parallel, then you can select to alternate between them, or (I think) even rotate between one, the other, and both combined. Now that's worth a look

Received it on Friday. Looks pretty good in person. NOt sure about the bag. It's functional, but I'll probably end up getting one of those plastic light cases (Kinsman and the like) to offer a bit more protection in the future. I don't think I'll but the optional panel. It's a nice idea, but unnecessary. There's enough space below for a 4-way strip, which then allows multiple power supplies, as it may be required if using a few large draw pedals... so I think I'll just keep it as it is and find a way to fit a multiway underneath instead. Light and solid. Good call @cLepto-bass!!!

We used to play a version of "Ghostbusters" with Sea Bass Kid... the downsweep filter was perfect for it. Maybe we'll bring it back

Same here. I like the old SA BEF for all kinds of filter sounds... but you need to tweak to change sounds. The idea of having a couple of little cheap pedals, each with its own 'preset' is very attractive. The Donner is really cool on guitar. I like it more and more. I love those leads like at the beginning of that video, very smooth Satriani-esque in a way... and the Donner Dynamic Wah works very well for that, especially with a stratocaster, but my P90 Les Paul style guitar also sounds great. On bass is a bit limited compared to the BEF, but I like it a lot. It's not easy to get those long decayed dirty sticky sounds like in Sir Psycho Sexy (with an overdrive), but it produces good sounds nonetheless, and it keeps the bottom end, which many others lose, or boost the midrange crazily and just sounds too different from the non-effected signal. Let's see how the TC-61 works out. It's supposed to arrive in a week or so.

Played first gig with it last night. Well lit stage! Still... I did find it a lot nicer to use. Happy with it.

They didn't have them!!! Seriously, a warm yellow/orange with black markers... I would have at least bought a few to test. But I never found them. I saw some close, but with white markers which made them harder to see than the original knobs... Recently I replaced a set of black knobs on a black pedal with yellow chicken head knobs... it works, and the MB resemblance was pointed out

eBay shop: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pointer-Knobs-for-Instruments-Effects-Pedals-Amplifiers-Guitars-Projects-Knobs/263958159865?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=563457262971&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I chose the cream ones, as the white ones were a little too bright. You planning to do the same?

Having the limit light come on does not seem to indicate what it seems to indicate... if I got it right when reading about it on "the other" forum. There's a gigantic thread about all things Subway and the thing about the limit light comes on often. The designer of the amp is there so he tends to answer those questions. I'm afraid I have not listened well enough to give that answer here The MB800 was an amp I wanted to try before I got the D800+. I've heard nothing but good things... but I'm very happy with the D800+ plus Two10 cabs. It's certainly done every gig I needed without PA support without pushing it a little bit. But I don't play with Motorhead Re: loudness... before I had this, I borrowed a D800 for a bit and tested it side by side with a Streamliner 900 and a MarkBass LMIII (rated at 900 and 500W respectively), using up to 4 TKS S112 cabs together (I had a little series/parallel box to allow certain combinations). The Markbass did not seem a lot quieter than the D800... although the D800 seemed "bigger" somehow. I think that whether we see 500, 700 or 900... the differences are not going to be enormous, but the voicing probably has the largest effect.

If I make mistakes, I make them thoroughly

Aha! Indeed. Yes, if I had intentions to use other midi-capable pedals then fine, but it doesn't look like I am going that way. So... I'll just bend over and use the switches manually and/or get a second or even third Aftershock. Glad I realised this before I bought a Gecko. I had not even thought how they connect together I assumed USB.

Even if a cab is rated thermally for X, there are limits as to how much air a cab is going to move, and people will have the tendency to try to push harder just because they can. Boosting the low end is one way people try to push the limits you find when not having enough speakers. The cab may not get much louder after a certain point even if you put another 100-200W into it... and you keep pushing until... You're clearly safer with a higher rated cab, but not immune.

Sorry to derail this a bit more... but I've just realised something: How do you connect the Gecko to the Aftershock? You need the SA Neuro hub, right? If that's the case... that's getting too expensive and too many extra bits to add on the board... it would be simpler for me to buy a second Aftershock