mcnach

[quote name='Len_derby' timestamp='1492799545' post='3283382'] Two things come into my mind. Firstly, wanting to avoid the things needing discussion he's invited her to try and scupper it. Alternatively, partners of either sex can get jealous and suspicious. Because it's a non-musical social event maybe he wasn't allowed to come without her. [/quote] wasn't allowed? is your guitarist 14?

I have a couple of the 7-guitar Warwick rockstands. One is about 10 years old, the other just over a year old... they're different with the older one being sturdier, but both do the job with the foam being protective enough and the old one is still going strong. They're only about £50, the 5-guitar one a bit cheaper. Get the 7 guitar one... you'll fill it

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1492927030' post='3284097'] I don't think so. It's more like it's simply screwed down to the point it simply does a job of improving the break-angle. Apologies to th OP, but we are looking at a budget mass production bass. It's not like there's any precision engineering about this. Mass production products are designed to give a finished product, shaving pennies off wherever possible. If I were the OP I would find some springs to fit on the screws, slacken the strings and tension the screws to make it level. If it really bothers, then buy a better made bass. [/quote] That sounds a little harsh... there are better made masses, but I wouldn't say the Squier VM is not well made based on the string retainer not being parallel. The string retainer has a very simple objective: to push the strings down below the nut slot level, so that the strings do not rattle in the slot. It's a simple way to ensure peace of mind: you can achieve enough break angle in most cases by carefully winding the strings downwards on the tuning post... but a string retainer helps a lot, and on the "far away" strings (D/G) it's almost the only way to ensure it. The string retainer on the OP's bass does what it has to do. If it doesn't appeal aesthetically then just screw in one end further if it's not excessive, or unscrew the other (possibly adding some toothpick wood/glue to the hole to make sure the screw bites well)... simple. The VM is not top level build, but it's not something to scoff at either.

Looks to me like it's doing its job just fine... to be honest, there's very little that can go wrong with a string tree Enjoy!

[quote name='dyerseve' timestamp='1492771477' post='3283062'] funny thing about internet forums is they are for discussion. that is the flow of comments back and forth between various parties, all of whom are voluntarily taking part. Dont like it, dont take part. Getting back to the topic of whether modifications add or detract from resale value, 95% of the time they will detract. Unless you have a seller looking for that specific bass with those specific mods then you will have a hard time getting more than current market value. The other instance would be if the mods were done by the manufacturer of the bass. It's a bit like selling a custom built bass, people want to know exactly what they will be getting for their money - modifications or non-stock builds add too many variables for people to be readily willing to shell out over current market value for such instruments. [/quote] I wouldn't say the mods reduce the price, but they rarely add quite as much as some people think... unless you find that buyer that wants *exactly* what you offer, then you are onto a winner. We must remember 'though that everybody can ask for whatever they want, and there's nothing wrong with it. I have at times put something for sale at 'optimistic' asking prices, purely because I was not in a hurry and it just wasn't worth it for me to sell it at lower than that price. I'm not putting a gun to somebody's head to buy it

[quote name='ebenezer' timestamp='1492772163' post='3283071'] I like the look of the j-tone.....how much adjustment do we really need !! [/quote] I like the mid-sweep control for mids on the J-Retro because sometimes using the two pickups together the mid-scoop can get a little too much. With the midsweep you can get a little extra boost on a narrow section of mids to make it *just* right: you still get the character of the two-pickups on of the Jazz, but with a little added definition. I find it very useful, and once you use it a few times you already know what setting you tend to like, so it's not like you need to tweak much, it's almost a set and forget setting.

[quote name='Chownybass' timestamp='1492762550' post='3282924'] The other thing we're looking into is a product called Blackwood Tech. It's a resin/pine composite - much like Richlite (which is resin and paper composite). They take pine (pinus radiata) and pressurise it with stain (either brown or black) and then they pressurise it and impregnate it with resin. And then finally they compact and press it. It can be manufactured to the hardness and characteristics of ebony or rosewood or anything inbetween. It also - unlike richlite - keeps a grain because it's still wood. It's also water resistant, doesn't warp and is flame retardant. Oh and it's 100% FSC sustainable. We've had samples made and it's really not too bad at all. You'd think it was ebony at a glance and it sounds great. I can post some updates on this stuff if people are at all interested. [/quote] That sounds really cool. I was not so sure years ago with 'ebonol' but when I tried basses with it I stopped being worried about it. I like this. But please stop showing those pictures on your signature... that purple bass keeps calling me (fortunately it's shorter scale and I like maple fingerboards... but still... I love the stuff you are making )

[quote name='lownote12' timestamp='1492762719' post='3282925'] I asked Barefaced to quote for the work. Reply was 'we're too busy to deal with this'. Make of that what you will. [/quote] I was looking for the option on the website and couldn't find it, I guess it's "custom work" territory which they may not deal with often (or cheaply)... When I ordered my single Two10 I could not decide which version. I could see myself wanting a second in the future *if* it really worked for me... in that case 12ohm versions seemed like the best way to go. In the end I went for 4 ohm. The reasoning was that most times I would really just use one (used as a stage monitor, 75%... small bars unsupported 10%) and in those cases it'll be nice to have the full power of my amp available (Markbass LMIII). Now, about the remaining 15% (stupid percentages, but you get the idea)... I have been doing ok with a pair of TKS S112 but they sometimes needed a little extra. So a couple of Two10 would be ideal. I figured that I could combine both in series to give me an 8ohm solution which will sound a bit bigger than a single one, despite the increase in impedance. But what convinced me was that I could simply add a second amplifier. I always had a backup amp, it just wasn't an LMIII, but they're not expensive in the second hand market and appear regularly... so worse case scenario I just carry two heads. They're light and small... so no trouble, and I like the "built-in" backup notion of this solution, as should one of them fail, I can just use a single one (the series/parallel box lives in my gigbag) and carry on. I'm not saying it's the best idea for everyone, but it's certainly an idea that works for me. Maybe it works for you too? Just something to think about.

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1492718843' post='3282734'] [...] to 180dB which would disintegrate buildings. [/quote] now we're talking! second Two10 cab just ordered

[quote name='Steve Browning' timestamp='1492683790' post='3282249'] Let me know and I'll bring a chair and some popcorn. Stewart is very passionate about the unreliability etc of valves. They are the work of Beezlebub in his eyes and will gladly tell you why, at length! He's a lovely guy and super helpful but be warned, he's very evangelical. [/quote] What Steve said. I like Stewart a lot. He's a very 'no-bs' kind of guy and he has some strong opinions which sometimes rub some people the wrong way. He moved away from valves at a time where solid state guitar amps were not considered to be 'proper' amps. I've heard some of his amps, and they sound pretty good (as well as being loud as hell)... We only met twice or maybe three times, and he still adds a little note when I've ordered a cable from his website I think Beer of the Bass would enjoy chatting with him.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1492666878' post='3282057'] If you were going down this route then wouldn't worry about what's best, you can try both and see which you prefer. Personally, I've been thinking of doing something similar. I would add a signal splutter at the end of my board. One output to an input each on the heads. Then theoretically the same gain and master level setting would achieve the same loudness. [/quote] Yeah, that was the end conclusion of the email: try any of the options and see, they're all ok. I also thought about the splitter, especially as I have a Boss LS-2 somewhere in my old pedalboard, feeling neglected, but linking the two heads seems neater unless I have the splitter sitting right by them.

[quote name='Steve Browning' timestamp='1492610441' post='3281612'] Not sure where you are in West Sussex but Stewart Ward (Mr Session) is in Basingstoke so not the longest drive. He will (as stated) give you excellent service [b]but DO NOT ask him about valves - even as a joke!![/b] [/quote] he's not wrong!

Ah, I wrote to MarkBass and they replied saying that probably fine but the return is actually preEQ... so both EQ are functional. They actually suggested that it's best to do either: 1) bass to head 1, set DI to preEQ, and then XLR line out to front input in head 2 (line out output is adjustable). Adjust volume/EQ independently. or 2) bass to head 1, tuner out to front input in head 2. Adjust volume/EQ independently. With option 1, the signal level sent to head 2 is controlled by the line out control alone. With option 2, the gain level in head 1 affects the signal sent to head 2 as well.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1492555067' post='3281255'] that's the big choice I've got to make 1 or 2 pickups. I'm going to set it up with switching rather than blend so that I'll be able to set it in "musicman" setting and it would be identical electronically to a 1 pup bass. Would be quite fun to have two pups too though! (and give the answer to the "why build it") [/quote] Yeah, the 2 pickup version will me more 'special'... For my particular taste, a single pickup is best, and the second pickup I feel gets in the way a little without adding anything I want, sound-wise, really. I like it simple. But that's just me. If you're after versatility your plan looks good, especially if you add coil switching. I just avoid that sort of thing because I get distracted too easily and need to fiddle with it all. But for a more sensible person it would work Looking forward to seeing what you end up with. That piece of wood has some nice grain too...

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1492539396' post='3281091'] Nah - I'm not sure I like the all black look with black hardwear. Nickel would be nice... but changing hardware is out of budget (unless someone wanted a swap) - remember this is the build I shouldn't really be doing after I spent all my bass spending money on the G&L Anyway, more mockups.... the one Eude (and me) like, chrome hardware I do like colour though: I've been really impressed with this build some german guy has done: ( [url="http://www.kontrabassbau.at/stingray5pimp.html"]http://www.kontrabas...ngray5pimp.html[/url] ) maple top obviously but nice [/quote] The one on the top, black... Although I prefer just the one pickup, if I were to use two I'd space them like you have. Looking promising!

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1492185728' post='3278574'] I have never seen strings wound in this way. If you wind around the post there doesn't seem much point in #3. And #4 seems to have the strings wound over each other. I wouldn't do either of these things. The usual advice is for 2 or 3 wraps around the post, finishing with the string at the bottom of the post. [/quote] +1 I bought those Cobalt strings and installed them like I normally do, not like in the picture... not a problem.

the comments are fantastic [url="https://www.facebook.com/groups/UKBassgear/permalink/1019564924843509/?sale_post_id=1019564924843509"]https://www.facebook.com/groups/UKBassgear/permalink/1019564924843509/?sale_post_id=1019564924843509[/url] good luck with that!

It seems that you can link them as usual: send from amp1 into return of amp2. But the EQ still works on both amps. [url="https://www.talkbass.com/threads/can-i-link-2-markbass-amps-together-to-have-the-ability-to-run-a-2-ohm-load.599093/"]https://www.talkbass.com/threads/can-i-link-2-markbass-amps-together-to-have-the-ability-to-run-a-2-ohm-load.599093/[/url]

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1492534883' post='3281044'] I honestly don't know! Just a point worth bearing in mind. I tried a couple of pre-amps with mine and they seemed much louder and clearer into the front of the amp than into the effects return. It was only later that it dawned on me as a possible cause. Like I said, it may or may not need changing for the best result- I can't say either way though! [/quote] Hmmm, wouldn't that be because of the different level signal expected at the FX loop compared to that at the amp's input? I don't know either! I appreciate your bringing this up, just in case!

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1492519828' post='3280872'] The fact you can get a series speaker cable has got my juices flowing! I had some 'plans' which would have meant running a two channel power amp. If I can do it with my current amp then it will save me a lot on the investment. As for slaving the LMIII, it's worth checking how the loop is set. I think they are default in parallel, so may or may not need opening up and changing over for best results. If so, it's a jumper connection in there somewhere! [/quote] TRue, it's a parallel loop by default on the LMIII. Would it matter 'though if I have nothing plugged in to the front and keep the EQ the same? I don't think so but I've been wrong a few times so bass to input 1, and send 1 to return 2, that should work, right? With each head connected to one cab.

[quote name='TimR' timestamp='1492442787' post='3280268'] You'll get an extra 3db for using two cabs. [b]And an extra 6db in the bass frequencies where they couple.[/b] Assuming you're no where near the limit of your current amp, there will be no benefit of running them in parallel vs running them in series. i.e. If you're not getting amp distortion when running in series, running in parallel won't at any more power. [/quote] I had no idea that the bottom end response was supposed to get stronger. It would probably go some way to explain the difference I found between the 2x 112 cabs (4ohm) and twice that (4x 112 cabs, total 8ohm). The amplifier may not have been able to produce as much power when hooked up to the 8ohm load, but it sounded 'bigger'. I can't go into whether it was much louder or not as I did not measure it in anyway but it did feel... bigger. If the low end were improved, it could have easily accounted for some of that, especially as the cabs in question (TKS S112) are not very bassy at all, so the effect would be more noticeable. Interesting. The single 210 with the LMIII is not enough, alone, for some gigs I have to play at. I can get away with it, but we will not sound great. I do need a bit more. Adding a second cab + second amp will surely do the trick, but I'm curious now to see what it will sound like with just one amp and the two cabs hooked up in series (8ohm), as a 2ohm load is not suitable for my chosen amp.

[quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1492459224' post='3280478'] I agree the rules of the site do say something about dealers not being aloud if I remember correctly but there are still a few on here buying and selling [/quote] what? a commercial user cannot advertise their stuff in the normal section, they have to use the affiliates section and they have a fee to pay etc... but nothing prevents anybody from buying, anywhere.

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1492458907' post='3280472'] I completely appreciate that once it's someone's property then they can do what they choose BUT I still think it's poor when dealers/ chancers haunt the classifeds on forums of all sorts [b]and steal in to grab anything at good prices before the community has a chance[/b]. I am perhaps old fashioned but I find that a bit low and have refused to sell to such people in the past as I would rather it go direct to an enthusiast. [/quote] are you talking about other forums or BC specifically? Because if it's here, I don't agree... everybody here has the same opportunity, there's no 'early disclosure' for select members or anything. It is frustrating when I've been after something fir a while, only to find I missed out by a few hours, but it is irrelevant whether the buyer is another regular member or somebody who is actively trading to make a profit: the person who gets there first has the advantage. If you want to improve your chances, then check often. I don't know, I never felt I had anybody else to blame despite my disappointment. I do prefer to sell to a regular member as well, but in the end, if I have a buyer, I have a buyer and what they do with their stuff is not my business. I did get annoyed once when I sold a guitar I had advertised on gumtree to a local guy. He came over, saying it was a present for his son, asked if I had any extras... he seemed nice and I loved the story he told me about his son wanting a guitar just like this one but not thinking he could afford it etc etc... I ended up bringing the price down a bit (it wasn't an expensive guitar, I went from £120 to £100) and added a gig bag, a nice strap, a decent cable... I had lots of spares. Within the week, it was back on gumtree at a higher price. Birthday present my arse...

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1492434720' post='3280183'] If you are thinking about another 4 ohm 210 I'd also get a second amp, (you're using an LM3 I believe) and daisy chain both amps using the send/return. You can run each as a linked 4 ohm systems. [/quote] Yes, this seems like the way to go

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1492351680' post='3279587'] Hi, I'm looking at a teal 55-94 on ebay (looks a little expensive at the moment though).. However the way the intonation is set worries me - am I being foolish? See picture attached.. [/quote] I wouldn't worry. It just indicates the owner probably doesn't have a clue about setting up intonation.