mcnach

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1485600277' post='3225169'] How many people are running a passive only EQ on their amps with these passive basses? [/quote] pssssht!

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1485604991' post='3225227'] You're not an Elvis fan are you? Because I've got some bad news. [/quote] !!!!

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1485529798' post='3224693'] Looking forward to both of your guys opinions on your respective toys - maybe stick them in the big in ear monitor post to try and keep everything together? [/quote] will do!

ah well... I ordered the UE900. There was even a £5 discount code... it was a sign

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1485468804' post='3224266'] Yeah - colour is tricky, because it's so contextual. I got lucky with my old LPB - it's exactly what I wanted. Strangely, I see it as blue, but Adrian insists it's green :-) [/quote] He must be like my dad, who sees all colours, but the RGB balance is not quite right. A few years ago I hired a Citroen Xsara in Madrid to go up north and visit family. It was some kind of greyish/brownish strange kind of colour. You could say it was grey and I would not argue. I was meeting my uncle on a little car park off the main road and he was expecting a GREEN Xsara. I parked right next to him and watched him for a few minutes as he was watching every car getting into the car park.

[quote name='ZilchWoolham' timestamp='1485439723' post='3223980'] What a great finish. It looks almost sandblasted. Is it dyed and oiled, or what's going on here exactly? [/quote] I asked about it when I was designing my order. Initially I was going for a metallic sparkle finish But I decided I wanted to see some wood, and they do get some nice pieces of ash those guys... I asked if it was an oil finish, and he said no, it was polyurethane, satin finish. Looking forward to seeing it up close. I actually wanted the colour a bit different. I described it and sent some pictures as examples, and he sent me a picture of one of their basses. The colour was nearly right, a dark purple/violet, but a bit too blue. I asked for it to be redder and sent an image of a plain coloured filled square. When I saw the sofa shot I thought "That's not what I expected... although... I think I like it". I went back to my original email... and I noticed that if you looked at the colour example perpendicularly to the screen, it looks just like what I wanted... if you look from above however it looks very much like what I got. And then I noticed that the colour changes a fair bit between my work monitors and my laptop (we're not into graphic design exactly so these monitors are never calibrated for colour)... So... if you want a particular colour, make sure it's understood. Maybe send a physical example? That's what I did when I had my 75RI Jazz refinished by David Wilson, and he nailed it. I doubt he'd have got that close if I had just emailed a picture. I initially thought about asking Adrian about refinishing it, or maybe if they were able to sell that one and I get another in the 'right' colour... but the more I looked at it the more I liked it, and finally my gf expressed such enthusiasm for the colour, that it just has to stay. I should have it in my hands some time next week

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1485458188' post='3224149'] There are no two ways about it, the sofa shot is a very integral part of the Maruszczyk custom experience. Congrats. [/quote] ha ha! it is indeed. "The sofa shot".

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1485418012' post='3223747'] Zdirect vs xdirect. One is passive, the other active... [url="http://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/art-dual-x-direct-dual-z-direct"]http://www.soundonso...t-dual-z-direct[/url] [/quote] Thank you!

I hate BassChat. I was happier (and wealthier) when I knew nothing at all I think I am going to try the Art X-Direct and see how that works. But that Palmer PDI09 seems really cool on guitar, hmmm. I predict I'll have one before the end of the year I got my Behringer P1 today and a couple of cables... I'll be able to test this idea soon

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1485462524' post='3224194'] Here you go - [url="https://www.eglobalcentral.co.uk/logitech-ultimate-ears-ue900s-headphone-en.html"]https://www.eglobalc...adphone-en.html[/url] I have had a number of friends order from here, they've come and they are the real deal. Just order with a credit card and you'll be fine. Can't complain at that price. And if they really work for you, you can have them converted to customs for circa £200 quid. As a benchmark, a quad custom is currently riding around £750 now. [/quote] wow! how's that possible? That's quite a price difference... you're a bad man [1], I think I may just bite the bullet... [1] the best kind of bad man 'though

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1485449691' post='3224063'] IEMs on a tight budget - I fear you aren't going to get the lows out of any of the IEMs that you have mentioned. Save you money and save up... seriously. You'll have a miserable IEM experience otherwise. You aren't going to get the performance you are looking for. I've spent more on headphones than I care to admit... and for bass in an IEM environment, I would say do not got anything less than a quad driver with UE900s being a good bet. Dual lows, mid and high. Probably looking around the 175ish mark but this isn't me being snobby - it's me saying, you are asking a lot from anything less because you are dealing with raw, uncompressed input with huge transients. Looks at the last few pages of the big IEM post for other people's views on them. [/quote] I have my eye on those UE900, they do get great reviews... The cheapest I've seen is around £280, 'though. Still, if the IEM route works for me, I'd definitely want good earphones. I've spent more in speaker cabinets that rarely get used as anything more than stage monitors, so £300 doesn't seem too bad (especially when you look at what really expensive earphones cost!)

[quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1485445099' post='3224025'] Great little thumb rests those are, mine sits a little further forward though [url="http://s1122.photobucket.com/user/Mkuk0/media/P1030108_zps4y24v4jd.jpg.html"][/url] That one is aluminium though, I wonder if we could persuade our fellow basschatter to knock up some more? [/quote] Oh you're one of the ones who got them? I forgot who made them, do you remember? I still have the original (looks like steel), and a few I got made based on that one both in aluminium and black acrylic. I have given a few away in the past few years as people try them and like them. I made a CAD file to get more cut but when I enquire prices it became silly as you'd have to make tons, and I like them but I would not get more than maybe two or three...

[quote name='dudewheresmybass' timestamp='1485097345' post='3221067'] Citronic dual driver headphones. Around £15 delivered from eBay. Awesome bang for the buck! I prefer them to some of the more expensive sets I have [url="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291914048062"]https://www.ebay.co....tm/291914048062[/url] [/quote] Hmmm... I was curious and ordered a pair to try. I am enormously underwhelmed... they're actually pretty bad for music. Very boxy, boomy lows, poor treble... I find it difficult to believe we're talking about the same ones. Model EP740?

I got THE email with the picture!!! 9 weeks and a half even with NAMM in the middle... not bad! Here's the new Jake:

Glad you liked the result (how could you possibly not??? )

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1485341174' post='3223202'] No phantom power is very important. If you are splitting a condenser between two desks (or accidentally have phantom power on - or if you desk has a global phantom power on/off for all channels), it's very important that you don't have two desks feeding phantom at the same time. The no phantom power on the first product tells me that the split is not isolated - meaning that you could achieve the same result with just a Y XLR cable. I wouldn't ever recommend a Y split. An isolated split means that only one channel of the pair will ever pass phantom... therefore you run no risk of sending phantom from one desk to another... and there is less chance of crosstalk. You won't be very popular if you accidentally send phantom to a third party soundman's desk... so the isolation is a good move. As Trevor says, the UE Sound Tap is not just a split, it will either allow you to tap into a line/mic level signal going to say, a powered monitor... but it will also let you tap into a powered feed to a passive monitor and bring that powered feed down to line level. I posted reference in the other thread to the Palmer PDI09 which does similar... as does the Kemper DI profiler box. [/quote] Thank you for explaining that... as you probably realised I know very little about this side of things. The SoundTap does more than I want, or not enough, depends how you look at it. If it allowed me to mix another signal in, then it'd be great. As it doesn't, I'll use a small mixer, so I just want the ability to take a line out or a speaker feed and split it. I have paid so little attention to the monitors out there that I can't tell you what sort of connectors they generally have... I'm not sure I come across passive or active more often. The PA we use in my second band, that one uses passive wedges and speakon connectors. Looking online, I notice that all passive monitors appear to have speakon sockets, while active ones generally have an XLR female input (I saw a handful with and additional jack socket), and male XLR outputs (line/mic level switchable, or line and mic separately), and maybe some an additional jack socket line output. So it turns out that, if I encounter active monitors, I just have to have an XLR cable at hand and connect their line-out to my mixer. Job done. If I only have passive monitors... then I need to find a way to tap into it and bring the speaker level signal down to line. I have absolutely no idea what I can use to achieve that... EXCEPT of course you've mentioned the Palmer DI09 unit. [url="http://www.palmer-germany.com/mi/en/PDI-09-Passive-DI-Box-for-Guitars-PDI09.htm"]http://www.palmer-ge...itars-PDI09.htm[/url] I saw you mentioned it in the other thread but I bookmarked it to look into it later... and later never happened. It does seem to do what I need, although I don't need any of the guitar speaker emulation, so I thought maybe there are other suitable boxes out there. The Palmer DI09 costs about £76 right now, which is not going to break the bank if it does the job. I found others that don't have so many whistles and might work too... Would any of these other units below be particularly suitable or unsuitable to capture a passive monitor mix? The plan would be: I'd get the speakon cable that plugs into the monitor, and plug it into the DI box using a speakon-jack adaptor cable. Then I'd pass the 'thru' signal back into the monitor with another jack-speakon cable. I would then take the XLR line out output from the box and connect it to my little personal mixer behind me. The [b]Palmer DI09[/b] looks like it should work. It costs £76, but it adds guitar speaker emulation that I don't need. Or... is maybe that speaker emulation what will make it sound tolerable in my earphones? I found two cheap and cheerful units that on paper look like they might work... unless I really need the speaker emulation of the Palmer unit. [b]1) Behringer Ultra-DI DI100 DI Box[/b] [url="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-Ultra-DI-DI100-DI-Box/dp/B000CCSWPQ/ref=pd_sbs_267_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VMWT3SVAE56EFYRPSTSB"]https://www.amazon.c...SVAE56EFYRPSTSB[/url] £33 It states it can take speaker level signal. I'm guessing the 'link' output is the same as 'thru'? One thing worries me (in blue). It says: [quote][u][b]Tapping a signal from a power amplifier output[/b][/u] When no line out is available it is possible to connect an amplifier output directly to the DI100 (for example, recording direct from a guitar amplifier, TV-speaker, etc). It is possible to connect the output, i.e an extra speaker output, of up to 3000 Watts to the ULTRA-DI without fear of overloading. Pay attention to the two -20 dB buttons on the ULTRA-DI! Both must be depressed if an amplifier output is connected to the DI100 input. [color=#0000cd]Always make sure the ground lift is on (no ground link) when connecting to speaker terminals. This prevents accidental short-circuiting of the amplifier output. Also make sure the Tip of the input jack is connected to the red terminal and that the metal housing of the DI100 has no contact with other equipment.[/color][/quote] If there's any possibility whatsoever of my damaging the amplifier that powers the monitors, then I don't want to get anywhere close. [b]2) Art X-Direct[/b] [url="https://www.amazon.co.uk/ART-X-Direct-Active-Direct-Injection/dp/B0009GYIKS/ref=pd_sbs_267_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YAHA13ER32DA3Y551432"]https://www.amazon.c...3ER32DA3Y551432[/url] £25 It clearly states it can take speaker level signals, it has a link output (which seems to be the same as 'thru'), and it's much like the Behringer above. They make a dual unit (Dual XDirect twin channel) where the 'link' outputs are labelled as 'thru'... There's also an Art Z-Direct... but I can't figure out what's the difference between the two units. [url="https://www.amazon.co.uk/ART-Z-Direct-Passive-Direct-Injection/dp/B0009GYIL2/ref=pd_sbs_267_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YAHA13ER32DA3Y551432"]https://www.amazon.c...3ER32DA3Y551432[/url] I hope I am getting closer to finding out what I need... thank you for your help and patience, this is all a new world for me! edit: I've checked a few videos of the Palmer PDI09 in action used to DI a guitar directly from the amplifier output. That's actually really cool... hmmm. I might actually find a use for this thing with my guitars...

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1485263174' post='3222570'] Thanks for your concern Dood, it's much appreciated. I'm sure another interesting project will come along eventually. Mcnach, if those wedge monitors are active it's highly likely they'll have a 'line out' for daisy chaining, which would be just the job for you. [/quote] True, I've seen some active ones that would be easy to get a line out from... The thing is I can't predict what monitor I'll have where, so I have to anticipate various situations, active monitors, passive monitors... various connectors... and it may not be as simple as I thought... I'm not familiar enough with these things... :/

I'm slowly trying to make a transition towards IEM, and in the immediate future it would be wired for me due to budget constraints and the fact that I need to understand more about wireless units before I feel I can choose. I recently saw this thing called a "Sound Tap" by Ultimate Ears. [url="http://stories.ultimateears.com/?p=763"]http://stories.ultimateears.com/?p=763[/url] and video: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUasZpMINt8[/media] What I liked about that was that it allows you to capture the mix being sent to a wedge, by putting that little box in between, so that the wedge still gets the signal but you tap into it and use it for your earphones. What I didn't like was that you cannot add/mix a signal to it, as I'd like to be able to control my bass level on it, unless you use some external mixer, and if I'm going to do that I surely don't need the Sound Tap but I can get a cheaper simpler device. Right now my initial setup will be based around a small Behringer UB1002 mixer I've got, with a couple of XLR/jack combo inputs and a few (8?) extra jack inputs. My bass will be fed into it from my OmniCabSim pedal (uneffected 'thru' to the main desk, effected out to the UB1002), and I may use the Zoom H2 mic unit for stage ambience. The output of the UB1002 will be fed into a Behringer P1 portable headphone amp attached to my person. This alone *might* do a passable job. But I'd ideally like a mix from the main desk. Sometimes I'll be able to get that ok, but sometimes I won't. So being able to tap into a wedge signal is very attractive as there will always be one available relatively near me, and I can sort that out without requiring the sound guy to spend more time on me. My question is how to do that. I found some small units on Thomann that I think might do the job... but I am not sure this is what I want or whether I am missing some important detail, so I'd like to ask you if any of these would do what I want: First there's this thing at £24, which takes one XLR and has a 'through' output XLR next to the input, and two output XLRs on the other side. It is passive, so just plug in and done. It says 'note: no phantom power' (is this anything I need to worry about? I don't think so but...). [url="https://www.thomann.de/gb/millenium_sp_31.htm"]https://www.thomann.de/gb/millenium_sp_31.htm[/url] Then there's this ART Prosplit microphone splitter, at £40 I don't know whether the 'microphone' part matters... but this one has two XLR outputs that are not equivalent, however I do not understand if that makes any difference to me (check the labelling on the outputs in the image). [url="https://www.thomann.de/gb/art_prosplit.htm"]https://www.thomann.de/gb/art_prosplit.htm[/url] Then there's the ART Splitcom Pro at £36. It's got two XLR inputs and two outputs... and I really do not understand what's the significant difference between this and the Prosplit above, and there's the different labelling on the inputs/outputs whose meaning I'm not clear about... [url="https://www.thomann.de/gb/art_splitcompro.htm"]https://www.thomann.de/gb/art_splitcompro.htm[/url] Would any of these be what I need? Or do you have any alternatives? The Millenium SP31 looks just right to me, but the 'no phantom power' makes me wonder... I imagine I just cannot use it to split two powered microphones or something, but that's not a use I will ever need, so I think I should be ok? I don't think the XLR to the wedges ever carry phantom power? (dunno). If the SP31 is ok... I like the idea of getting two, so that I can capture two monitors and make a pseudo stereo mix for myself with them. For instance using the singer's monitor at the front, and the drummer's on my side... but that's not important now. So, will the SP31 or any of the other units be what I'm looking for?

[quote name='Painy' timestamp='1485114877' post='3221266'] Oooo, pretty!!! That looks just the ticket, thanks! Just read a few reviews which seem to share the view that these are very pronounced on the treble side (overly so in fact according to a couple of reviews) but the cheap wireless system we're using could really do with more presence in the highs anyway so could actually be a good match. For £38 delivered I reckon these are worth a punt. [/quote] I was looking at those too, I like the design and reviews, although I am a little concerned about too many people complaining about the build quality and them breaking... I had bookmarked the Shure SE215 based on reviews and price (around £80-90) but if the M6 do a good job I might go for those. I like that the cable is detachable too. The reviews about the excessive treble might be due to poor seal of the earbuds they were using. Let us know what you think about them!

ugh...

[quote name='dmccombe7' timestamp='1485162778' post='3221547'] Did see the Fat Beams but description on them wasn't clear as to what they were made from. [/quote] stainless steel

I used to use the D'Addario ones you're using, that gauge and also 45-105... I found the Ernie Ball nickels a bit nicer and punchier, especially for a 'finger funk' type of sound... but I am much happier with the stainless steel DR Fat Beams. They are more expensive, but I find that after they loose the initial over bright 'zing', the tone is just right and lasts longer than the D'Addarios (for my taste). They also feel great. The Fat Beams on the Stingray or a Jazz are very nice

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1485005988' post='3220324'] I'm now thinking of trying that myself! Using this: using the Zoom H2 for ambient sound, and the OmniCabSim for bass sound, mixed with that little but pretty versatile mixer. I was checking the H2 the other day in my office (I had the bass at work, and the H2 lives in the gig bag)... It was very interesting to set the gain switch to "High"... I could hear when people were opening doors down the corridor because the whirring noise of the equipment fans in the room... and I could hear conversations quite clearly next door that normally you could not make out... Obviously I'd want the gain set 'LOW' during a gig, as I do for recordings during rehearsal, but that was pretty cool. They're decent little microphones, those in the Zoom units, eh? [/quote] Some more MacGyver I had a terrible gig on Saturday where the onstage sound was maddening. I have played there before and it's not the best stage around these parts, but on Saturday I don't know what happened, it was terrible. So I'm going to take this IEM situation a bit more attention. Unfortunately finances are tight, so I am looking for something that works, to start with, even if the sound is not the best, as long as it's going to allow me to protect my ears from stupid volumes, to allow me to hear band and myself better, and it's relatively simple. So I am thinking of three options. 1) wired, ambient mic a stereo mic (on stage somewhere, probably) such as the Zoom H2 above, the OmniCabSim pedal for my bass sound, blended with a small mixer (probably not the one above, but a small Behringer one I have that I'm not using which has a couple of XLR inputs and various 6.3mm jack sockets etc. Th output of that would be fed into a Behringer P1 portable headphone amp I ordered yesterday. This is the simplest, and when the P1 arrives (and a couple of cables I ordered with it) I'll be ready to have a go. One possible limitation is that what the mic captures may not be very helpful... but I'll have to try and see. I could mount everything into my old pedalboard case, and it should be pretty quick to set up. I'd also be independent of soundguys, which is attractive as probably a third of the gigs I play we have very limited support, and it can work even for those gigs where it's just backline, which we do a few of sometimes (small PA purely for vocals/brass). I'll have to figure out a way to maybe wrap my instrument cable and the cable carrying the signal from my mixer together so that I don't have multiple cords dangling about. Or go back to using my wireless for the bass, so the only cable is the one feeding my headphone amp. Any ideas from somebody who's done this? 2) wired, desk output A variation of the above, or perhaps even better an addition to that, would be if I can get an output mix from the desk. If I can get my own mix, wonderful, but I'm thinking worse case scenario: there's always a wedge monitor I could perhaps 'tap' from. I could choose the monitor that has the mix I might like best (maybe drummer, as he's close to me and he does like his kick through the monitor, which I'd find very useful... whatever). My question is: would this be as simple as maybe making a box that splits the XLR from the desk into two, one that plugs into the wedge and another with a longer cable that I'll plug into my mixer? It'll be a mono signal, but if this approach is ok, I could probably do the same with a second wedge carrying a different mix and use that to give me some 'fake stereo' image that may sound more pleasant? Or is this completely silly? I got this idea from the UE Sound Tap gadget... but as it doesn't allow to add/mix another signal to it, maybe I can make my own this way? 3) wireless, desk output Right... now we enter the more dangerous and expensive territory. While I can potentially invest in decent gear in the future, after finances recover and I have done more research... if I were going to try something soon, it would have to be something affordable. The simplest would be a situation where I don't need the sound person to give me my own mix, but I can just use a generic stereo mix and add my bass to it myself. Here I run into two issues. First... how do I add my own bass to it? If the transmitter (set by the desk) sends me a mix, it will go to the receiver. But how could I add my bass signal to it and stay wireless? I could just pick the signal and feed it into my Behringer mixer... and use the P1 headphone amp instead of the receiver from the IEM system.. but then I'd be wired between my mixer by my amp and my earphones so what would be the point? I guess one possibility would be to take a wired feed (a wedge -or two- could do, as in approach #2) and feed that to my little mixer onstage, then feed the output of the mixer to the transmitter which would be onstage with me, and use the receiver wireless. A cool thing about this is that if I also use my Line6 G30 wireless for the bass, I could be entirely wireless. Presumably having the transmitter onstage would help avoid dropouts? I don't know. I'm a little lost here... The second issue... is what system? I'd probably be looking at something like the MEI ONE or MEI 100 or even MEI 1000 at a push. But will they be ok? I'm concerned that the UHF transmission may not be so hot for bass on the cheaper units. At this stage I don't care about how many transmitters can be used with the unit or how many frequencies (I think)... so if that's the only difference between the units then I'd go for the ONE or 100... Uf.. I have a headache and anybody reading this probably too. Am I making any sense? Help!

[quote name='lownote12' timestamp='1485018074' post='3220468'] I was promised instructions, which didn't happen. It's not hard, but you do need to take the whole cab apart to replace the loom on both drivers and the back panel. If it was a knackered old cab I'd just rip it apart, no worries. But when its new and you're trying to keep it that way comes the the problem, especially when it's likely the journey is non-mission critical. [/quote] That sounds like a major pain... I assumed all you needed to do was unscrew the back panel, disconnect the speaker wires one it, and connect them to the new panel... or something very similar to that. What you describe does not sound like fun at all