mcnach

I've seen a couple of L2000 with some kind of oval pickguards, very much Stingray-inspired, and I want one for mine. Does anybody have one that they could trace for me?

[quote name='Sean' timestamp='1394873740' post='2396122'] It's getting close. Next week... [/quote] how do you know how do you know how do you know? (it means mine can't be that far off either, yay! )

[quote name='michinho' timestamp='1394729242' post='2394547'] Hi there, Could someone please recommend me a good top of the range hybird gig-bag? I travel to gigs a lot into central London (I live in South London) so that means I get on a lot of public transport, Buses, Trains, Trams etc. Sometimes this can include a bit of walking too. I always want to take what Bass I want without having to worry about the safety/protection of it. So... The main feature of the bag has to be PROTECTION. The bass has to be fully padded from knocks and bangs. Completely Shock proof, because I often find myself getting onto busy trains/buses and walking through crowds etc. I really don't want to get to a gig and find my bass has any dings or scratches! Another feature i'm concerned about is weatherproof. The case has to be completely durable against any form of rain/wind/heat/snow/mist/heat/cold... you name it! I'd hate to find the inside of the case damp, moist or any form of condensation! It also has to be reasonably weighted and comfortable to wear on my back, because as stated, I can sometimes find myself doing a bit of walking. Finally, Height. I'd prefer one that didn't put the top of the neck and headstock of my bass waaaaaay above my head! Like I said I get on a lot of buses so I don't want to be ducking about all over the place! Maybe an adjustable strap height would be good? Bags i've been looking at/researching: Mono M80 Mono Vertigo igig G515 Fusion F1 Protec Contego Sadowsky Portabag I have heard different reviews for all these cases but still can't tell which one is the best! Please, any input would be highly appreciated since I need one fairly soon! have a few gigs coming thick and fast! Cheers, Mike [/quote] Fusion F1, and don't think anymore Really good protection, both from bumps and weather, and really comfortable to carry. Good storage space too. I got mine last year and have used it a lot, it shows no signs of wear whatsoever. It's pretty hefty, but not overly so. The bass is nicely hugged inside and it just oozes quality. Really well thought out design, in every way. I was a bit unsure before I bought it because I could not try one first and I could not find much in terms of first hand reviews... but I'm really glad I went for it. I've carried a range of basses there, from 4-string Stingray and Jazz, to 5-string Lakland 5502, and they all fit nicely.

[quote name='andyonbass' timestamp='1394830104' post='2395821'] Where did you get the replacement feet from? [/quote] eBay, item 190974724099 4x Black Rubber Easy Fit Circular Feet with a Push Rivet Flexible for Cases RF11 [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190974724099"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190974724099[/url]

The replacement rubber feet fit perfectly so no sticking anything... just a straight swap. I'll post pictures later.

[quote name='TG Flatline' timestamp='1394808789' post='2395481'] The T-65 sits among the Boss OC-2/Pearl OC-07 octave family, with knobs for Clean, Octave Up, Octave Down, Filter on the Octave Down, and an Effects Loop Level control. Same footprint as the Grand Tarkin and with north-mounted jacks to save space! [/quote]

I have just placed an order on one myself! I had a chance to try a slightly modded Darklighter overdrive, and I loved it. So I wanted to buy one... but if you're going to ask for a custom pedal (in my case, adding a clean blend), why not explore other possibilities? Tom has been great to deal with, and the final pedal is going to be essentially a Darklighter overdrive, with extras: 1) it will have a clean blend control. 2) the clean blend will have a low pass filter knob, where at one end it'll have no effect. 3) it will have a series loop, so that I can easily link an octave or envelope filter (or anything, those are just the two pedals I'm most likely to want to use with it) 4) the loop will have a trim control, so that I can adjust the level down (rarely needed, but...) 5) there will be a pre/post mini switch, to choose what comes first: the darklighter or the loop. 6) there will be an overdrive bypass switch, to allow using only the loop, without the overdrive 7) and your usual master footswitch. It's going to be a while, but that pedal allows me to use overdrive with others and connect all at once without using something like an LS2, simplifying cabling and saving a bit of space too. I'm excited at having been able to choose exactly what options I wanted my pedal to have. Tom made it extremely easy, and fun, and I know the result will be awesome

I've got the feet today. set 1 of stick on ones... too plasticky, little grip. set 2 of stick on ones... nice grip. A bit too shallow, but it might work. however... set 3 of rubber feet with central stud, similar to the original system looks like a winner: good grip and I think they'll fit! Will test tonight.

Now I'm waiting for rubber feet that use the same system... If they don't fit (I was not sure of the dimensions online) or the rubber is not grippy enough, I can use some simple stick-on rubber feet.

I thought I'd take a few pictures to document this, in case someone else finds it useful (as I would have). 1) First I used a fine screw-driver tool to gently prise up the central stud: 2) The stud comes out easily, leaving the plastic foot in place 4) To remove the foot, I tried first to slide the screwdriver blade underneath it, which works: 5) but I found that all you needed was to push the foot with the blade. There is no need to slide it underneath as shown above (4). Both methods work, but if you simply push the plastic foot it will lift easily and you will not risk scratching the finish. So I prefer to do it like this: 6) And that's one foot out! 7) Repeat for the remaining 3 feet, and that's all removed in under 2 minutes.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1394544351' post='2392452'] Most of that sort of tape can be softened gently with a hairdryer then prised away. You don't need to go mad with the heat. [/quote] the tapes I have come across they generally lift without any heat, just gently pulling at them. A final gentle rub with something like lighter fluid seems to remove all traces, if there are any left. I only had rubbing alcohol at hand once, and it removed it also.

[quote name='arthurhenry' timestamp='1394222313' post='2389384'] As I've mentioned previously on this topic; when using Schallers as intended, you have metal against metal. Although I know some have used them for many years with no problem, I have had a strap button sheer off as a result of this friction. I now keep the strap locks loose, attach the strap to the bass, then clip the strap locks on. Thus, the weight of the bass is on the leather of the strap and the strap locks still keep it on. [/quote] did the actual strap button break? or the screw that holds it?

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1394492474' post='2392009'] My G50 transmitter got pulled off my strap at a recent gig and hit the floor, and the battery door broke into its component parts. I'm waiting for Line6 UK to come back to me on the availability of a replacement (I know you can get them but the only websites with them are in the US and don't ship internationally). Although the door is metal, the latch and slidey bit is plastic, and two tiny screws hold the inner bit to the outer bit and break the plastic bosses that they screw into. [/quote] moments like that I think "I really want a 3D printer"...

It's really easy to fit. The newer models don't even require soldering, just a very small flat head screwdriver (you can get one at Maplin for about £1), 5 cables to attach, that's all. So if you are able to cut the original cables and peel off a few mm of plastic from the end of each, you'll be able to do it yourself. It comes with instructions. The difference between the J and DJ retro is the plate. The Lakland one (DJ) is slighly curved compared to a standard Jazz... so a standard J Retro with the standard plate will not fit. You need the DJ Retro. Or a J Retro and a separate DJ plate. Or drill a couple of holes on your existing plate to fit the switches... Simplest is to get the DJ-Retro to start with.

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1394444466' post='2391276'] Fair enough. I thought the issue was that you were unable to remove the feet [/quote] Oh, yes, that was one issue, but I figured it out this weekend. Sorry I wasn't clear

[quote name='iconic' timestamp='1394415962' post='2391192'] yes but i didn't want to faff about with neck on a new bass....given the high end boutique pricing structure of the JD75 range [/quote]

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1394441421' post='2391245'] How about getting a mat, cutting four feet-sized circles in it, then glueing the circles to the feet? [/quote] that's an idea, although they already sell stick-on rubber feet It turns out the feet on the 9.2 are of the type where the central stud can be pulled, and then the feet come off easily. So I have ordered a set of rubber feet of the same type that I hope they fit (was not sure of the dimensions, but they were cheap anyway). As a plan B, I ordered two different sets of stick on rubber feet (again at about £2 or less for the set, why not). So I expect I'll have a working solution within a few days. I will report back.

IN fact, maybe I should send it to the bass doc myself and get a white one made for me too, hmmm.

[quote name='Japow' timestamp='1394380917' post='2390839'] Please if you could; I'd really appreciate it. [/quote] I will scan it tomorrow at work, no problem.

[quote name='iconic' timestamp='1394384468' post='2390865'] I couldn't put up with the slightly rough fret ends, I thought I would live with them, but couldn't in the end....that was the only reason, everything else was good for the money, as I find with most cheapies. [/quote] but... that's fixable

[quote name='Mornats' timestamp='1394394577' post='2390999'] Well, I tried practicing to a few songs on the PC. I loaded up recordings of our songs into Reaper, took the DI out from the MarkBass using an XLR to jack lead into the instrument level input on my Guitar Rig Session interface and I get a mass of hiss coming through, even when Reaper is the only software running. When I plug a bass directly into the interface there is no noise whatsoever (unless I hit a note of course). So in this sense, the MarkBass is totally unusable for recording direct to PC. I can hear the distinct hiss when I turn the amp on (even with all volumes turned down) in a quiet room. It's not a problem when rehearsing, even at low volumes. As I bought it for rehearsing and gigging this shouldn't be a problem for me (so long as a DI out to the PA is hiss-free). Just a shame this "added-extra" use didn't work out. [/quote] I use the DI in mine all the time, to PA, it sounds great. Hmmm, strange.