mcnach

[quote name='merello' timestamp='1364587447' post='2028643'] The police in Scotland just now are moving to a national force. They are becoming even more cocky than usual and becoming quite aggressive with football fans. Surprised the helicopters, dogs and riot vans didn't show! [/quote] I have to say that the pair of policemen that showed up were nothing but polite and nice to everyone. It sounded to me like they were asked to go, but they did not see the point of being there. Like I said, it was quite far from any residential area (all industrial estate, outside the forest), and it was a very easy going friendly atmosphere. Except the guys that felt were they had to collaborate with the police (I point I fully understand) but did so by being rude to us and generally freaking out, not having a clue how the sound was being produced/controlled. Never had any trouble with the police here in this country.

I see some people add the year of birth after their names... but I wasn't sure that was your case

[quote name='ChickenKiev' timestamp='1364207829' post='2023078'] I am currenty oogling over a few items of gear I really really want to get my hands on, but my searching has been halted by a little lack of knowledge about pre-amps. Okay, so I'm looking to pick up a bass that has an onboard pre-amp (I'm correct by saying that the pickups themselves are passive, but the pre-amp makes them sorta pseudo-active, right?) but I've also seen Tech21's VT Bass V2 pedal, which I believe is an overdrive pedal/pre-amp if my understanding is correct. My question is this; if I plugged a bass with an onboard pre-amp into an external pre-amp, can I expect explosions? Any feedback would be great, thanks. Kiev. [/quote] No. No explosions Active basses don't have necessarily a higher output than passive basses. Some passive basses are hotter than most active ones, and there's a whole world in between. Higher output basses (whether active or passive) will drive the next bit in the chain (a preamp, an effects pedal... whatever) harder, so you may need to adjust levels differently using different basses, but that's all. You will not damage anything.

[quote name='ChickenKiev' timestamp='1364393368' post='2025817'] Right, so I've spotted a bass I really want. It's an ltd Phoenix 204. So basically a Thunderbird clone. I was curious about something if I decided to replace the pickups. Does it matter where the pickups go on a bass or can they be put anywhere? From my understanding there are certain hotspots on a guitar or bass in terms of pickup placement, will it sound like arse if I do something like this: [IMG]http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p611/jamesyjamesyjamesy/7AB8DE96-A654-4294-9529-97ED342B7098-500-00000112D182DB1C_zpsb24190c9.jpg[/IMG] Obviously there is string spacing to take into consideration too as I believe the ltd has a much longer scale length than a typical Precision. That's why I placed it more towards the neck in my crappy Paint mock-up as on a Precision the split pickup is more central on the body. I bet you're all wondering why I wouldn't just go and pick up a Fender Precision, right? Well for one, I just don't think they look as sexy (despite their phenomenal sound I want something that has that something special in the looks department), but from what I hear from many people, and my fiddlings with an Epi Bird at my local music shop, Thunderbirds sound muddier than a muddy thing. So this is kinda my theoretical solution. But anyway, any feedback would be cracking. Kiev. [/quote] There is no right or wrong place to place a pickup. But different positions have different characteristics. A P bass soudns the way it does because of that pickup and where it's placed. Move the pickup 4 cm towards the bridge, and it sounds nothing like a P bass... but it's an awesome sound. If you want it to sound a bit like a P... measure the position of the P pickup on a Precision, from the bridge... and place it on the same spot. The string spacing difference is negligible for any practical purpose, don't worry about it, unless it bothers you if visually the polepieces don't align perfectly. It's just an aesthetic issue, 'though

[quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1364409034' post='2026137'] well i measured them and got a resistance of 13k. so theyre hotter than a P pickup. [/quote] Like dad367584638 (I may have his number wrong) said, resistance alone is not a predictor of output. There are other factors. For example, MM pickups are around 4 ohm... and they are not exactly quiet. Connect one of the pickups directly to the output socket, bypassing everything else. That's as loud as that pickup is going to be. If it's louder than before... you will have to check your wiring/components. If it sounds the same, volume-wise... then that's how it's going to sound. If you still think it's weak (are you comparing to other basses? which ones?) then maybe those pickups are quieter than what you are used to, or maybe something in your set up (pickup height, strings...) is a little off.

I sometimes make a decision to buy bass A, but understand that with A, maybe bass B or C would be surplus. So I decide that at least one bass will go. Which one? I'd rather decide after I've had A (unless I am sure A is a keeper) for a bit, so that I can make a good decision. Sometimes it's bass A which fails to satisfy after the honeymoon period. If money is not the main issue... get the Jazz, and give yourself a month or two before you decide which bass goes.

[quote name='BluRay' timestamp='1364485481' post='2027145'] I'm curious about these. Is there any merit in swapping a 3-band ray pre-amp for a JE? Would it change the tone much? Or are they mainly for upgrading copies? [/quote] Another +1 to the praises for John. As for the 3-band preamp... I'd say yes. I don't think there is anything wrong with the original MM 3-band preamp... but the JE is different in a very nice way (for my taste). It is esentially a traditional 2-band plus a midsweep module. With the midsweep neutral, it does nothing, and you get the classic 2-band EQ. It's different to the EBMM 3EQ even if you find the "flat" setting for the mid control. Not better, not worse. Different. I like it a lot. But what makes it amazing is the midsweep control. It's a semiparametric control. With the top part of the concentric knob you select to either cut or boost, and how much. With the bottom part of the knob, you select the frequency centre. It makes finding the right tone to fit in the mix yet cut through extremely easy. For that reason,, I'd say that if you are wondering about changing the preamp, it must be that you are not in love with it as it is... then yes, try a 3-band JE The Stingray in my avatar was a 2EQ. I bought a 3-band 3 knob version for it. I think the 2EQ section sounds pretty much like it did before, but *I think* the treble is not as shrill, and the bass is a bit less "boomy", but nothing very different. The midsweep I love. It transformed a great bass into a fantastic one. If you had a 2EQ, I would not see much point in getting a JE MMSR 2-band... but the 3-band preamps are nothing alike, so -for me- it makes sense.

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1364134452' post='2022235'] Are you referring to the 'subscription' fee to place ads? If so, I don't think it's so the site can make a profit, it's just to help with the upkeep, since the site used to rely solely on donations. I don't think £20 for a year of unlimited ads is unreasonable at all though, especially compared to eBay's costs! You can still sell items under £50 for free as well [/quote] £20 is 4-5 magazines... it's not a lot of money, in a year... and only payable if you want to sell stuff. It works out cheaper than eBay very easily. My friend's brother was complaining that after using the messaging app 'whatsapp' for about a year, it asked him to pay a subscription. "I am not paying!" said the brother. My friend asked "how much does it cost a year now?" The answer... 69p. People are used to never pay for things online...

A standard set up will take care of sharp fret ends, fret levelling if necessary (it's often necessary if it's never done before), looking at the nut that it's cut well, and if not replace it, that sort of thing. Different places charge different amounts, but probably around £50-60 these days (I haven't had any work done by somebody else for a long time now). Well worth it even if it cost twice that (it doesn't). Just make sure you take it to someone good. In many shops they just have a a guy who "knows guitars" and does a half hearted job. Not every shop is like that, but in my experience, many are. So ask around to find a decent one.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' timestamp='1364153789' post='2022624'] I don't think you're asking too much. Surprised you haven't found a buyer yet but I don't think it needs to be any cheaper. [/quote] I agree. Very nice instrument. I have one with a maple fingerboard, but the body is nowhere as nice as yours.

If they are any good, it will be well worth it. The very first time I took my guitar in, I was not entirely sure. It played alright... there were a couple of minor issues, but nothing terrible. When I got it back it was like a new guitar, sooo much nicer.

I would take it to a good tech for set up. Do you know anyone in your area? You;ll be able to demo the issues and ity should not cost you much to get it playing nicely.

BUt you don't get that with a plectrum?

[quote name='lou24d53' timestamp='1364074496' post='2021735'] Havin' a few beers and was searching thru some old music DVD's earlier, put on the Live Aid doovde and there he was with Mr Mullet himself, Paul Young... Fast forward an hour or so, then The Who came on...Pino's an awesome, awesome player, but he cannae lace the Ox's boots in my opinion...to be fair, not many can... [/quote] Never got Entwistle. It sounds good in context and all, but it never spoke to me. However Pino has such a "finesse",,, I don't know how to explain it. It appeals to me. I would not say that one is better than the other, 'though. That's for end of year filler "list of 100 best players" in magazines

You said you moved the pickup down but it made no difference... If happens when you play over the pickup... so you could be just hearing your finger hitting the pickup casing after you pluck, but it would disappear -not merely reduce- as you pluck at another location. It would be present acoustically, 'though, just as you heard... If the pickup is microphonic to some extent, you could amplify a lot of handling noise. Of course, the solution would be: don't hit the pickup. But it does not fit with everything you've said either. Hmmm. If you pluck by the end of the neck... do you get the click? If you pluck right by the bridge... do you get the click?

Not the clearest clip, but I hear the click you mention. Hard to tell what it it 'though. Does it happen on the E string alone? You say it only happens with fingers and not plectrum... is the pickup quite close to the strings? I'm wondering if what we hear is your finger hitting the next string down after it plucks the target string. If you are plucking the A string and fretting on the E, if the pickup is too high, maybe as your finger plucks the A and rests on the E, that's enough to make the click. I would not bet my life on it, as I cannot really hear it very cleanly, too much background noise, but I can't think what else you'd make differently, between plectrum and fingerstyle... If this is the case, you would not get a click if you pluck the E string...

doesn't the display change in some way when it goes into protection mode? It's been a long time I haven't read the manual (3 years ago, when I bought mine!), but I seem to have that impression from somewhere. The headphone output will mute the speaker out if used. Have you fiddled with it? Do you use it at all? Maybe it's malfunctioning making contact when there is no plug? Just another of a million possibilities, I'm afraid... hmmm. Did you try it with headphones while it was malfunctioning?

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1364056758' post='2021486'] Think mystery partially solved with this one! I played bass acoustically and can hear the weird boomy overtone! It's mainly on e and a string. Seems that when string is plucked over pickup it makes the string "ricochet" off a fret and choke the note slightly (I think it's the 20th) hence the almost harmonic "boom" that it creates, but isn't fret buzz. I've increased height of strings but still happens. Not sure where to go from here, wondering if it might need a neck adjustment? When I check relief neck is very straight so thinking needs relief. Any ideas? [/quote] Hmmm, it doesn' sound like what that other guy had. I personally need to hear it. I'm lost.

That would be most useful. I remember a while ago someone with a complaint that sounded a bit like yours. It turned out to be his technique. His way of plucking a string involved a soft slap followed by the pluck, which resulted in a "thud" before every note... Hard to describe, but the clips made it obvious. If you can upload some clips it'll help.

[quote name='GregBass' timestamp='1364042233' post='2021195'] For the OP: Can you please explain the concept of reigning in GAS? I don't understand. [/quote] It's like a bassist's unicorn, from what I hear...

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1364049126' post='2021327'] You're not in trouble, but your picture is. Sorry guys, but you know what reaction to R*********** copy headstocks brings to our doorstep. [/quote] even for cakes? (it's a cake, isn't it? I hope so, I'd bite it)

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1364038920' post='2021133'] I'm a bit of a techie, I've designed and small scale manufactured gear and still repair stuff. First my actual experience with behringer. I've had two EP series PA amps and they have been utterly reliable and are well made, also a Xenyx mixer, which is utterly reliable also. I used XM8500 mic's, the SM58 look alike which sounds slightly better than the SM58 but with slightly worse feedback control and much more handling noise. The mic had to be rewired and I can't tell you how bad the original soldering was. I think to understand Behringer you only have to think what they are trying to do. To make stuff cheap you have to look at costs across the board. Labour costs and electronics are cheap so the boards are often OK. Materials costs are similar if you make them in the UK or China so shaving materials costs is worth doing, slightly flimsier mouldings, cases and crucially connectors can cut costs. Quality control is expensive as you need skilled workers to do this. After sales care is also expensive. Anything with cheap connectors is going to be less reliable and rushing me-too products onto the market can lead to problems. Having said this behringer won't actually want anything unreliable to come out of their factories they will just engineer a compromise which keeps costs down. Components like speakers which have a significant materials cost can't have the costs shaved without affecting the quality, so the speakers are designed to a price. Most of the dissatisfaction seems to be about the products with speakers in. Ultimately the reason I am wary of Behringer because of their after sales. Some of the retailers I talked to have said that the new distributors in the UK don't provide the support out of the guarantee period that other companies do. Because of the method of construction (shared by most electronic stuff these days) repairs are difficult without new boards being available. No worse than say, Apple but something you factor into what you are prepared to pay. Personally I'd rather pay 10-20% more and get a better product but this gap isn't filled by many manufacturers. Behringer represent great value and the reliability isn't as bad as their reputation but you will find the odd bit of horsemeat if you dine at this end of the market. [/quote] very good post! Thank you!