mcnach

I checked this a while ago (years before the newer models came out) on the Ernie Ball forum: So it looks like it extends higher than some other preamps, but the maximum boost is still around 40 Hz. However the 3EQ has an HPF too, which will remove some of the lowest frequencies too (I was unable to find the specs of this HPF at the time).

Hmmm... Let's go one better and have both batteries installed, but with a switch for one or the other. When running low, switch to the other battery. Replace at your earliest convenience. Should be easy... although not as easy as leaving things as they are

A little dramatic (setting us up for failure0 but I agree: a bypass switch should be stock. Unless you like 'active pickups' where a bypass is not possible, but carrying a couple of 9V batteries in your gigbag is a pretty easy insurance policy, in addition to replacing batteries regularly (in my case, once a year). Disclaimer: no, I'm not perfect and my Stingray died on me, on stage, once. I had forgotten to replace the battery and it was almost 2 years going. Fortunately, I had a John East preamp that I asked to have a bypass switch installed. I finished the set, and put a fresh battery in during the break.

Hi Steff! Long time no seen! Yeah, my comments about sharp edges/corners is purely my visual impression as I never have had one in my hands. Same about the pins, they *look* to me like they would not be comfy but I defer to the experience of those who have actually managed to try one. I'm always a little sceptical about these things, but that was a nice video! Often demo videos show the bass in isolation, but you were playing along a mix, and yup, the clips with the new bridge do sound as if the bass is a bit better defined with better presence especially around the low mids, can't argue with that!

My VM4 doesn't, unless it's switched to passive. I found out the day I went to replace the battery and... forgot to put a new battery in. It took me a few minutes to realise the error, when I saw TWO batteries on my desk.

What the OP wanted to know is whether the covers can be replaced or not, which was amply ignored by the reply the OP was given.

That was exactly why I didn't buy a 48 in May last year. Got a VM4 instead. I really wanted to like the 48, but lacking that horn meant the playing position was all wrong for me and it didn't hang well enough for me (I tried two 48s and I wouldn't say the neck dive was terrible, they clearly have tried to address that as much as it is possible with that shape, but there's only so much you can do). This one will certainly improve those two aspects

If you can't get this fixed yourself, feel free to PM me (I'm in Edinburgh) and I could look at this for you.

I sold my last USA SUB last year. I've had three 4 string and one 5 string. All sold for about as much as I paid for, so 350-400. I feel I should have waited another year or so and could have made a few quid! Got my 2002 Stingray (2eq natural/maple) in 2010 for £700 with case. Immaculate. Those days a new one was about £1100-1200. Ten years later, new ones are almost twice that, and they're different (not worse, but different). So 950-1000 for a used one in good condition doesn't seem unreasonable, and you can't get those new anymore anyway. When you look at what you can get from Fender for that money, the Stingrays look like excellent value. I've been toying with the idea of a new one, I like the finishes, their lower weight, and the fact they are still unmistakeably a Stingray yet it sounds a little different. But the whole covid killing off gigs is making me reconsider, as live music was 90% of my playing.

Oh but it does! It just doesn't sound like a Jazz doing soft and subtle. But I think I know what you mean. I don't like the big body of a Jazz bass, or the skinny neck... but I've had more Jazz basses than any other kind, because there is just something about their sound that I always want to have one around. Or seven, as it once was.

NOW we're talking! This one should balance much better! 😍

? Chrome and Firefox both open the SFX page ok here. edit: like @Woodinblack said, it appears I was going to http://etc etc, not the https address.

This. No bass cab I have tried sounds very good for guitar. You can just about get away with clean sounds. Some clean sounds. Still not very nice. But distortion in particular sounds awful Fast forward 8 years... and I have a different take on this: Guitar (strat, tele, or dual humbucker PRS all good) into drive pedal (Mooer Hustle Drive), into Joyo American Sound (set cleanish) and a reverb pedal. Then that into a bass head (MarkBass LMIII or TC Electronic BAM200 both good) and using a TKS S112 or a BF Two10 cab. THAT sounds pretty good. The Joyo American sound is an analog Fender amplifier modelling pedal (not sure which model, I forget) with some decent speaker emulation. I have used the British Sound one, and the Orange Juice, all good, but the American Sound is the nicest. I bought it for overdrive on bass (it's very nice for lower gain sounds), but it makes playing guitar through a bass amp so good that I haven't used my guitar amplifiers in ages as space is a bit limited in my 'toy room' and like this I can use a single amp.

My experience wasn't great either. Mine stopped working on one side within a few month sof owning them (PJB). I thought it was probably the cable, despite not having had any particular cable incidents. I ordered a new one. It arrived and... still no sound on one side, it wasn't the cable. I contacted PJB about it, and they did respond, but the reply amounted to "ah, that sucks" and nothing about how to get them repaired, whether under warranty or not. That led me to look for alternatives. I have to say the PJB headphones were nice, but I didn't love them. The Audiotechnica ATH-M50X I ended up with felt better, sounded better (to me), and they're still in great condition several years later. Their price at the time was similar to the PJB ones, maybe £15-20 more.

I like Eddie even more now (almos as much as my dislike for Durst).

If only there was a way to not have to watch stuff I'm not interested in... hmmm... I feel there's a lucrative idea somewhere there

It depends. Sometimes all you need is a small truss rod tweak and others more. What I don't get is... Shouldn't the guitarist get his guitar looked at? Detuning because you want to is one thing and that's cool, but if there's a problem, get it fixed. One of the guitarists in my main band kept breaking the B string too. He wanted to fix it by buying a new guitar. All it needed was a very soft file applied to the saddle.

I've had that with a new set of strings, and then not with a replacement, so @Beedster's suggestion looks likely to me. If you like higher action, the amount of compensation required is larger, and it can highlight when you get weird strings like that.

The left speaker is the 'full range' one (not really full range, but not 'modified', if you will), and the other is highpassed. This means when you stack them as a standard 410, the leftmost two speakers form a 'miniarray' of sorts and avoid the usual comb-filtering of 410s where all speakers are the same. I use a pair vertically usually, so I'm not sure what the effect of that will be, but it sounds good to me.

when I got mine and tested both orientations I found that in vertical orientation, with the port firing downwards, the low end was a bit tighter, less prominent, and I liked that sound the most. But it's not such a huge difference that one is great and the other terrible. In practice, I mostly use them vertically (one, or two cabs stacked), but when I had to stack two horizontally (wobbly festival 'stage') I did notice the dispersion on stage was better than what I was expecting from a 410. I used a single Two10 horizontally only once, with a little stand to angle it towards me, and placed a few metres in front of me, like a monitor, and that was very good too. In short... possibilities possibilities.

I offer group discounts...

whoa, that's nice!!!

I'd just rewire as a Jazz bass, considering each coil as a separate pickup. I had an OLP wired that way and the difference between the coils was subtle, given how close they are, but noticeable and useful. In fact, look for a "Jazz parallel/series switch" and wire it with that, for maximum versatility.