mcnach

The Mooer is pretty good, I think, but you need to sit down and edit the presets to get it sounding the way you want. I sold the Nux and still have the Mooer. It's more versatile and I like the small footprint. It's not as user friendly as the Nux if you want to tweak it on the spot, but I guess it's not really something you'd tweak much once you find the sound you want.

I like those, that extra top end mellows out nicely in not too much time. It sounds like you might enjoy the DR Pure Blues.

I like DR Sunbeams because they get into that 'played in' zone quickly. But recently I tried the DR Pure Blues and I'm really enjoying them. It's the first roundwound string that I like from the first minute, and they get better over the next few days. The low end may be a little less pronounced than other strings (Fat Beams or Sunbeams, typically for me), but it's marginal and easy to compensate for. The mids are strong, and the top end is there but mellow. From the start. Really nice and flexible too, if you like that.

I liked the EBS multicomp a lot for slap-rich stuff. It does colour your sound a bit, but it's not a bad sound and it's a really easy to adjust pedal.

On the contrary, if an amp survives with you, we'll all know it's a solid one

The thing with Hendrix, for example, is that you need to consider the context. What was out there at the time that Hendrix came along? Right now it may not sound that impressive, but in those days it was quite special when you look at the alternatives.

That's strange indeed. One thing that might help anchoring is putting the string back through the slot after a half turn. I do that with guitar strings, especially the plain ones. It should help with the thicker bass strings too although I never thought it would be necessary. Just to be sure: the string is losing its anchor then, it's not about the windings being a bit loose and settling in etc, right? It's the actual anchor being loose and the strings ends up being detached?

As always, being sensible is desirable. I tend to leave my switch at the 2 ohm position. That automatically limits the power somewhat when using a 4 or 8 ohm cab, which may help. I only do it because of simplicity and that I like how it sounds. I use one cab alone frequently, for rehearsals.

The B word that cannot be pronounced will soon take care of that...

For a small ding I've used nail varnish.

Do you anchor it in the tuner? As in putting the string down the hole, then sharply bend it? That alone is enough to keep most strings in place, even without a full turn winding (I sometimes have cut the string too short by mistake and found it was stable). Do you have a picture? Been using DR strings mostly for a decade now, Fat Beams, Hi Beams and recently Sunbeams and Pure Blues, and never had an issue like that. It's intriguing and I would first think of a string being incorrectly fitted... but you don't sound inexperienced so I don't know. A picture would be useful. Any chance the string core broke and it's being held by the outer windings only?

Mesa D800+ with a pair of Two10 here, playing mostly funk/ska/reggae but also Rage Against The Machine, RHCP and more... It's just mighty. Great combination.

Not e-pic! Slap LIKE now!

FX pedals with LEDs so bright that you can't see what each knob is set at

amplifiers without a mute button

1) Don't they make chrome AND nickel? I was convinced they did, but it's been a while. Mine certainly seemed to match the other tuners (chrome) 2) the ones I've had (a few BT-1, a BT-2 and a BT-7) looked just fine, the lever matched the rest. 4) I'm with you there... I really dislike reverse tuners. I owned a Classic 50 Precision for a few years and never really got used to it. 5) Being somewhat 'vertically challenged' I never encountered this problem 9) why would it be more logical the other way around? Unless you're lefthanded, of course. With the pedals in front of me, if I plugged into the leftmost one, the cable would get in the way between myself and the pedals.

I'm not a fan of the one in my VM4, so much so that I'm going to remove it. I like it a lot in passive form, even with the limited tone control that it has in passive form

I imagine it's whether the cable joins the two outputs in series or parallel. If in series, you double up the voltage, in in parallel you double the current.

I only have experience of the Soul Food and the Mojo Mojo. The Soul Food is better than the Mojo Mojo, but still not fantastic. I would suggest the TC Electronic Spark Booster or the Valeton Tube Refiner. Both are very good at low gain warm sounds, and can get some nice overdrive if pushed.

So sad to hear... I hope it's just a temporary glitch, I thought he was moving to a larger workshop sometime in the past few months and that his health was better. He builds superb cabs. I've owned six of them (keeping a pair of S112 as a compact, light and great sounding solution)... I hope he's ok, and that he catches up with the backlog soon. As sympathetic as I am towards him, the OP should not be in this position. Fingers crossed! @Contrebasse did you buy other cabs by now or are you still waiting to resolve this first?

That's freaky!!! I have a translucent green one. I bought it on eBay. For... £40. When? In 2010, so nearly 10 years ago. Where is it? With my brother!!! 😲

Yeah, I was very disappointed with mine. I sent it back.

I'd say skip the single and just go for parallel/series. Keep it humbucking. Single is a bit too thin by comparison, generally, with the parallel giving you a better option...

TKS S212 is nice and light and great sounding.

So maybe it *is* worth the 200 after all. If my LMIII goes, I'd spend the money. I really like the amp and I can't buy something I like as much for that price, so...