Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

mcnach

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    10,958
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by mcnach

  1. Hipshot D-tuner, new, still in the box, never even been unpacked. I bought it for one of my basses and later changed my mind. Model BT2. (edit: *CHROME* ) More info here: https://hipshotproducts.com/collections/bass-xtenders/products/bt2-bass-xtender Asking for £60 including delivery in the UK.
  2. Hipshot Bass Xtender (D-tuner). Model BT7. Comes with instructions and all fittings, screws etc. More info here: https://hipshotproducts.com/collections/bass-xtenders/products/bt7-bass-xtender Used but not abused. Great condition cosmetic and otherwise. I used to have it in a Squier Jazz. I had to drill a couple of new holes as the original holes didn't match exactly. It's hard to know which will fit *exactly* as there are so many variations, but it's no different from installing new tuners that have mounting screws in different locations (no big deal). Asking for £50 including delivery in the UK.
  3. He could not have known that the sender would follow Amazon's policy on packaging.
  4. There's an Ashdown RM500 head in one of the rehearsal studios I use... ugh. Nice sounding amp, but that mirror face... whose idea was that??? It's great if I want to retouch my make up, but it's a pain if I want to read which knob does what.
  5. I never paid much attention to most lyrics until I was in my 20s. That's for songs in my native language! In English... it took a while longer. Even to this day I generally treat vocals as another instrument. From time to time, I stop to see what they say...
  6. I bought the Mooer and the NUX Solid Studio. I wanted to use them for recording but I haven't done a lot of that... so I still have both, with minimal use, and I don't know which one I prefer. I liked that the NUX had a lot of the controls as physical knobs and that I could load my own IRs (I had talked to a guy in a local studio to capture my BF Two10 using different microphones). I like the Mooer because it's tiny and has a very powerful EQ section with HPF and LPF. Live, I've had a DSM OminCabSim DeLuxe for a couple of years now on my big pedalboard. I use overdrive a lot on that one (got 3 separate overdrives) and I use the DI on the OmniCabSim so that the overdriven bass doesn't sound fizzy. This is the NUX:
  7. Not sure about the Pau Ferro comment. A while ago I had a very "sample size insignificant" poll among people I know, talking about the whole rosewood/pau ferro thing...and there was only one person who seemed to want rosewood. All others (6-7?) didn't care. If it looked good, it was good. We have a lot of chat in forums about the importance of woods etc, but it seems that out there in the real world, most people don't really care,
  8. You won't get exactly that P sound, but a Model J is not a bad suggestion. Another alternative is... get a new pickguard made with a cutout for a P style pickup, and just carefully route the body so you can install a P. You can always restore it to JJ whenever you want.
  9. Ha! Indeed, it was one of the first sounds I got with the BSW!
  10. New Town Kings... great band that deserves to be better known.
  11. It is *sometimes* given, many times I have not been able to find it anywhere. Can you find the specs for all your pedals? I know I can't. Sometimes they say something like "use power supply rated at minimum 300mA" and they clearly draw a lot less because they work beautifully out of a single 120mA outlet... If anything they're going to give you inflated numbers to avoid customer complaints... which is why I'd rather measure it myself. In addition, if you measure it yourself, you get to unequivocally see what difference there is when the pedal is active or switched off... It may not matter a lot of the time, as I only ever care for this when putting a new bunch of pedals together and checking which power supply would be best to use. No point taking the big powerful supply off my big board if it turns out one of the smaller ones in my box of bits will do the job.
  12. That's a great site! Thank you! It would make sense to send them my readings for pedals they do not already have there
  13. The Microsynth in particular surprised me, and the Soundblox one... I was expecting a lot more from that one!
  14. I don't know, I think you're still insecure...
  15. What the flying... F??? You need to go back and read what I wrote... Either you misremember, or you have some serious comprehension issues
  16. Did your ex leave you for a Squier bass? Just kidding. I can sympathise with the anti-hype feeling you've got, you and I actually probably feel very similar [1] but it just seems like you're going to the other extreme. [1]: I mean about the feeling that JV Squiers are over-hyped. A lot of them are very nice indeed, but I don't think I would pay as much as they often go for, personally. But I would also not pay 10k for a Fodera even if I had the disposable income to make the expense a non issue
  17. That's an idea! Anybody wants me to measure the current draw from a Source Audio C4? I've been wanting to try one of those for a while 😛
  18. Yup, same here. It's rare but from time to time it happens. The solution? Avoid pressing on the affected area too much, and let it go away when it chooses to. Typically overnight. Sometimes just a few hours.
  19. Well, not only the MB SuperBooster is very useful for my purposes... I seem to also have a dub monster in my collection and I had forgotten about it. I don't use it much, only at home. It's a very light bass with a very bad case of neck dive due to the light weight body and the position of the strap button. It makes the neck feel very long too. It sounds nice, it's fun to play, but I've got better nicer basses I prefer. However, that MM on the neck with the tone rolled off (it's passive)... Yeah, I think I'm ok with things as they are
  20. The sooner you accept and embrace your inferiority complex, the better, you know? 😛
  21. Just got one... pretty useful tool when you're playing about with a bunch of effects and wondering how to power all the pedals. Not much more to say... it just works... plug it in, see the reading, make a note. Here's a handful I just checked... First, a digital pedal that I thought was very power-hungry. The Source Audio Bass Envelope Filter... wasn't as bad as I thought, at just 120mA. Then, the EXH Bass MicroSynth... I had no idea how much current it required. I thought it would not be a crazy amount, but I was not sure. Now I know. Just 40 mA. How about the little Caline Reverb "Snakebite"? 33mA And what about an overdrive? A lot of this kind of pedals are between 10-15mA, so how about the Valeton Tube Refiner (which sounds GREAT on bass)... just 10mA. Cool. And finally... a monster. I got this valve overdrive pedal. It's a really strange thing, but sounds really nice. It's a Nobsound (yes, I know) G3 Little Bear that cost something like £35-40. A battery cannot power it. It's just very bad. It recommends a 500mA supply, if I recall correctly. I plugged into a 250mA supply and it worked ok, but it does work a bit better with a bigger supply. So, what does this one measure? 343mA!!! Makes sense.
×
×
  • Create New...