CHRISDABASS

Hey! Just finished building this guitar and thought i'd share it with you Please let me know what you think Specs are One piece ash body with wenge veneer Spider burl maple top One piece indian rosewood neck Ebony board Abm brass bridge Locking grover tuners Custom wound wizard pickups Tru oil finish [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/photo2_zpsbb090d20.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/447F7FE7-576A-4F49-86BE-DC3F824FFEA1-2766-000052EF260304EC_zps0d43abe8.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/F2D96D8A-A15C-4378-8E0A-7FE0F7783F35-2766-000052F0ADADAEE9_zps06b464e7.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/A5A291C9-F043-4BBD-B6B2-CEA216B8F720-2766-000052F1B47D96D7_zps9619ee80.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/5FB793DB-C6C0-4B22-9CE8-EAE039704E85-2766-000052F1ECE38479_zps6da9bf9d.jpg[/IMG]

Glad this got sorted! i was about to offer some Wenge at the right size and thickness

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1328124970' post='1522310'] Using the above advice and tips I have successfully fitted the neck. Put the E and G on, the neck held itself pretty well. Did some fine lining up, and put a speed clamp on the bottom of the neck and body. Using the screws got the holes marked on the neck. Drilled pilot holes, measuring the amount of screw proud from the body, and marking that off on my bit with tape. Held the neck flat on my work-bench, and taped a small spirit level on the Makita to help keeping it straight. Bolted up spot-on first time. The body already had been shimmed, but the action was a little high beyond the 12th, and the Badass saddles were very low. I've put a business card shim in, which had given great fast action to the 12th, but is a bit buzzy beyond, now I've got the right Allen from Maplins, I can raise the saddles on the E&A. The TR only needed a few turns to the right, and has been spot on. I'm V impressed with this neck, all the frets seem level, straight, responsive TR, and good quality and finish. I'd heard gripes about the fret-dots and nut, but I've got no problems with them [/quote] There's a great little trick to solve the buzzing on the higher notes of bolt on necks! You need to add a little "fall away" to the frets in that area so each one from around the 12th or maybe 14th onwards is a tiny bit lower than the one before it! (We're talking thousanths of an inch) It's simple to do with a small levelling block! To be honest i have no idea why all necks of this style dont have this built into them?!! If you wanna give it a try let me know and i'll go into more detail Cheers Chris

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1328124970' post='1522310'] Using the above advice and tips I have successfully fitted the neck. Put the E and G on, the neck held itself pretty well. Did some fine lining up, and put a speed clamp on the bottom of the neck and body. Using the screws got the holes marked on the neck. Drilled pilot holes, measuring the amount of screw proud from the body, and marking that off on my bit with tape. Held the neck flat on my work-bench, and taped a small spirit level on the Makita to help keeping it straight. Bolted up spot-on first time. The body already had been shimmed, but the action was a little high beyond the 12th, and the Badass saddles were very low. I've put a business card shim in, which had given great fast action to the 12th, but is a bit buzzy beyond, now I've got the right Allen from Maplins, I can raise the saddles on the E&A. The TR only needed a few turns to the right, and has been spot on. I'm V impressed with this neck, all the frets seem level, straight, responsive TR, and good quality and finish. I'd heard gripes about the fret-dots and nut, but I've got no problems with them [/quote]

A brass nut would only affect the sound of the open string. As soon as you fret a note the nut is out of the equation! I'd go for a good old P bass! It's Simple and fits almost any style

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1361259953' post='1983442'] If you're going to clamp the neck in place, don't clamp direct on the surface of the bass. If you can, put a piece of MDF/plywood under the clamp jaws to widen the area of pressure. This will reduce the chances of the foot of the clamp pressing into the fibres of the wood. Mind you, if you clamp it I don't recon you'll be able to see much of the bass to do the fixing. I recon the "wife or mate" idea is best. A "pilot hole" is a small hole you drill first to guide the way for the main drill. My concern here is if you drill through the body into the neck with and undersized drill it may not be in the centre of the hole and will be in the wrong place when you come to screw. How I would do it, would be hold the neck in place, or lay the bass down on clean, soft blankets or dust cloths supporting it in the right places. Then find a drill that's a neat fit in the body hole and drill through just to mark the hole position. Take body off and then see the 4 hole positions marked in the neck and drill into these positions using the right sized drill for the screws you're going to use. Be careful not to drill too deep. if it helps, measure the length of the screw against the drill and mark the depth you need to go on the drill-bit with tape. (Allowing also for the depth of the body etc.) Better too shallow and have to re-drill, than to go too deep. [/quote] What he said!!

I was gonna offer my services but im about an hour away in Saltaire!

where are you exactly?

I've found this stuff to be the best all round http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Stewart-MacDonald_Fretwire/StewMac_Medium_Fretwire.html I use 0152!

I use planet waves fingerboard conditioner. It really brings a rosewood board back to life and is quite cheap

Cant beleive you found out about that luke! Peter is a surprisingly good player!!

Hey! I'd suggest you take a look here http://www.east-uk.com John does some fantastic circuits and if you go for something like the spm 02 its quite cost effective and very versitile! Hope that helps Cheers Chris

I'd have a word with Andy at Wizard. http://www.wizardpickups.co.uk/moreinfo.asp?id=53 He can custom make a pickup for you that will work perfectly with your bass.

Hey Kev This may sound strange but i have worked on a few warwicks in the past that had their truss rods installed upside down / the wrong way around so they reacted the oposite to what you expect them to! You expect clockwise turns to straighten the neck and anti clockwise to add more bow / relief. Have you checked that it is operating the right way around?

[quote name='mckendrick' timestamp='1359385801' post='1953898'] Don't eff with a great bass. Get an outboard. Sadowsky or a Sans Amp. [/quote] Also a great idea!!!

I still think wizards 64's are hard to beat! They go really well with east preamps too!

Hey thought you guys might like to see what ive been up to here are a few pics of the MK2 bass we finished building a few months ago specs are: Alder body wenge veneer "spider burl" maple top Indian rosewood neck madagascar rosewood fingerboard Custom wound wizard pickups East 2 band EQ All hipshot hardware Weight 7.5lbs [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/SAM_0600_zpsd6725d5b.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/SAM_0601_zpscaee0211.jpg[/IMG] This next one is the Mk3 specs are: Indian rosewood body Maple veneer Claro walnut top Wenge neck Macassar ebony fingerboard this will have similar electronics to the above and will have all black hipshot hardware [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/photo3_zps775cee47.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/photo1_zpseefd584f.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/photo2_zps13e00d00.jpg[/IMG] we currently have a quite few customer builds in progress too which i'll update as soon as we have pics. would love to know what you think You can also find us here - facebook.com/alpherinstruments