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CHRISDABASS

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Everything posted by CHRISDABASS

  1. It's already been said above but if your desired spec is simple and falls within what the metro range offers then the choice is easy, go metro. If however you require anything non standard (fancy woods, light weight, custom colours etc) then NYC is the only way to go. I've owned both and honestly, i loved them all and wouldn't like to have to choose between them!
  2. [quote name='DarkHeart' timestamp='1369501550' post='2089913'] my original project Jeff Bass was finished in Danish Oil with a coating of beeswax on top and it still looks the same today. [URL=http://s80.photobucket.com/user/jeffhop/media/IMG_0005.jpg.html][IMG]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/jeffhop/IMG_0005.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [/quote] What a beautiful piece of ash!!
  3. [quote name='waldflote8' timestamp='1368706207' post='2080381'] Oh o, trouble ahead for me then maybe I ended up stripping the organoil finish from the body of my parana build, so is back to bare now. Thanks for the info. any suggestions for a good tung oil in the UK ? haha, it was a conversation with a mate about using loads of coats of lacquer and it being like putting the guitar in a contraceptive which led to the organoil experiment. I had made a nut from an old ebony piano sharp too but he persuaded me to use a brass nut. Be interested to hear how it sounds if anyone has tried an ebony one. cheers [/quote] Sorry i missed this reply!! Haha i totally agree about the lacquer thing!! It has to make a difference! Usually guitars are painted to cover up the poor quality of wood used to make them! I'd love to see some pics of your work when it's done mate! Ebony nuts are our next experiment! We have tons of fingerboard offcuts so we may as well try them i have a feeling they'll be very good!! Hope you're having a great bank holiday weekend!
  4. [quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1368650470' post='2079894'] Cheers for the details. I'm trying Tung oil at the moment. I've given it a couple of coats so far - soaks in a fair bit but coverage is pretty even. Going to give it a polish with beeswax when I'm done. I'll put photos up no matter how it goes!! Cheers again Jez [/quote] Nice work!!
  5. [quote name='waldflote8' timestamp='1368636127' post='2079574'] very nice, the top is striking and the ash grain has come out really well with the finish. Lovely looking rosewood too. To work with,.. how did you find tru oil with the different woods ? I used Organoil ( I gather they are both tung oil based) on a recent parana body/rosewood neck,.. gorgeous with the rosewood but didn't really like the parana. Very easy to mark the parana although I wonder if that is mainly due to the relative softness of the wood rather than the organoil,.. the neck is holding up pretty well. cheers. [/quote] Hey Thanks mate! We've found that using tru oil on rosewood is a bad idea! The natural oils in the rosewood don't mix well with it and it goes all wierd after a while! We tend to just wax our necks now On everything else the tru oil is fantastic!! It really brings out the best in the wood and is very easy to apply! It's not very durable (better on harder woods) but the advantage is that it's very easy to repair any damage and also can be applied in very thin coats which i'm sure makes a difference to the sound! It's got to be better than tons of lacquer!! Cheers
  6. I've had the pleasure of having this bass in my workshop for a setup and i've got to say its a stunning example. It plays beautifully and sounds fantastic! I didn't want to give it back!
  7. [quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1368184476' post='2074145'] But how did the luthier/tech learn how to do it? [/quote] Well said For the price most luthiers would charge you could probably buy 5 or more graphtech nuts! I say have a go! What's the worst thing that could happen? Buy a spare one just in case but if you're careful you may get it right first time, save your self some cash and learn a new skill
  8. [quote name='phsycoandy' timestamp='1368202824' post='2074461'] Think I was a bit overwhelmed really the smile really came when I plugged her in. Can't believe how light she is, way lighter than my 4 string metro, how do they chamber a natural finish body? [/quote] Sadowsky's chambered bodies usually have a matching top on them that matches the rest of the body. Check out the behind the notes video on youtube
  9. Hey This is happening on the 19th http://www.guitarshows.co.uk/north-west-exhibitors.php Would love to meet some of you there
  10. Birchwood casey tru oil Really brings out the best in the wood! Finish it of with a bit of their wax and that's it! Nice and easy
  11. [quote name='Jono Bolton' timestamp='1366984862' post='2059906'] Does such a thing exist? I much prefer the look of Gibson guitars, mainly SGs, but I just can't get on with the scale length. I prefer a Fender 25.5" scale, but don't much like the styling, especially Strats, Teles not so much. I really like the look of the ESP hybrids, but again, they have a 24.75" Gibson scale. Does anyone kow of any guitars that look like a Gibson, but play like a Fender? [/quote] Hey Jono! We had a very similar scale length problem so we decided to build these http://basschat.co.uk/topic/202791-new-guitar-day/page__pid__2054930#entry2054930 They use fender scale length yet look more gibson (ish) and can be made with any nut width you like
  12. Hey To me it sounds like a high fret! Sometimes they pop out slightly due to changes in weather / humidity etc. Do you have something small with a straight edge on it? Like a stanley knife blade? If so use this to rest over THREE frets at a time (14th, 15th and 16th) if i'm right the blade will rock a little, pivoting on the high spot of the 15th fret. If it doesn't rock at all i'd also suggest trying a different set of strings, there may be a slight kink / bend in it causing it to sit too low at that point. Please let me know how you get on!
  13. Great video! i closed my eyes on the first run through. it turns out i like the black 2000 USA Jazz great tone!
  14. I'd just like to thank Stephen for coming to us for his latest bass here's a pic from yesterday! [URL=http://s169.photobucket.com/user/chrisdabass/media/DSC04889_zps04feeb99.jpg.html][IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/DSC04889_zps04feeb99.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
  15. [quote name='kulit17' timestamp='1366988608' post='2059999'] I just got her in after months of waiting and feel the need to share this beauty!!! I lurk here on basschat time to time, but mostly on TB First post here too!!!!! I'm all the way across the pond, but she did make its way to the UK when Roger and crew sent her to get some SIMs LED action Enjoy BODY | Cocobolo/Mahogany NECK | Roaste Bird's Eye Maple with Vintage Tint Finish FINGERBOARD | Roast Bird's Eye Maple, Ebony Blocks, 22 Frets, 12" Radius, 1.45" Nut Width, Vintage Tint, SIMs LEDs Gold Sidemarkers PICKGUARD | White Pearl HARDWARE | Black with D-Tuner PICKUPS | Sadowsky Soap Bars WEIGHT | 7.60 lbs. (3.63 kg) PREAMP | Sadowsky Preamp with Vintage Tone Control and Mid-Boost Circuit SBS45 • Blue (Stainless Steel 45-105) [/quote] WOW!! i have never seen a sadowsky like that before! Very nice!
  16. I agree! Plastic nuts sound terrible and can be way too soft making them wear too quickly and be annoying to repair / re cut. I've always wondered what an ebony nut would sound like?!
  17. To me it looks like the best solution is to make the nut and bridge fit the current string set by doing as you suggested and filing the nut and bridge to make it work. Replacement nuts and suitable bridge saddles are relatively inexpensive and you could easily buy a backup set so when you're ready to change the strings back to a lighter guage you just pop the right set it
  18. To me it looks like the best solution is to make the nut and bridge fit the current string set by doing as you suggested and filing the nut and bridge to make it work. Replacement nuts and suitable bridge saddles are relatively inexpensive and you could easily buy a backup set so when you're ready to change the strings back to a lighter guage you just pop the right set it
  19. Here ya go http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=370746104719&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=49127962234
  20. 99 percent of the time it will be a bit of dirt in one of the pots! We've had guitars come into the workshop with the owner convinced he needed new pots and a switch. We saved him time and money buy just giving it all a good clean Buy a can of super servisol spray and give the pots a squirt in the little hole on the back while turning them! That usually does the trick If that doesnt work i'd imagine a bad solder joint some where. Maybe on the input Let me know if you need a hand Cheers Chris
  21. Lovely basses!! Played 4 of these now and all were excellent for the money! I'd throw a set of wizards in there! Cracking pickups!
  22. [quote name='GarethFlatlands' timestamp='1365787136' post='2044625'] Though so, it would seem a bit odd to go to all that effort and then use a plastic nut! [/quote] What other material would you suggest? Brass? bone? We find graphtech to provide a way better sound than bone and far better workability than brass. They produce a sound that we really like and don't grab the string and cause tuning issues like some materials can. Also don't forget that the nut only affects the sound of the open string. as soon as you fret a note the nut is completely out of the equation.
  23. Hey One of the best ways i have found to check the relief of a neck is press the E string down on the first fret with the index finger of your left hand and using your little finger on your right hand hold down the same string on either the last fret or at the fret where the neck joins the body. This makes a straight edge out of the string and you can clearly see the relief between those points. (i then use the thumb on my right hand to to press the string down in the middle to give me an idea of feel) I would say the issues you are having with clattering high up is more to do with the shim pushing that end of the neck up, making the last few frets slightly higher than they should be. This can be solved quite simply with what is sometimes called fall away. This process makes each fret from around the 15th onwards progressively lower than the one before it (by only thousandths of an inch) this stops all that clattering and makes the notes sound as they should If you'd like any further info on how to do this then please let me know cheers chris
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