Jabba_the_gut

I think it is - I bought both tops from the same supplier at the same time.

Maybe with a top like this....

Cheers for all the comments. I must apologise for how slow this build has been, I've had a few non-bass related things going on that have occupied far too much time...….should be able to get on with things properly in another month or so. I'm hoping to build a five string version of this amongst other projects. Cheers again Jez

Nowt wrong with the table - it's relic'd…..

Got a few more jobs done: Frets installed Fret end slots filled Fret ends finished Nut slot cut Nut fitted String tree fitted Strings fitted Knobs fitted and a little noodling....... Doesn't look like the frets will need levelling but I will recheck that again later. Still got some more bits and bobs to do but this is where it is at now:

Likewise, if you would be willing to post I'd be very interested in the tele neck for a project. Cheers Jez

Yep, they are just that - two completely separate pots.. Look forward to seeing how the build goes. MEC pots are nice quality - not cheap, but you get what you pay for!!

Lovely! Looking forward to seeing how this turns out - very nicely I expect!! really nice piece of walnut and a bargain as you say. A really nice find that. Still got to get me a drum sander....

Cheers for these details Andy, interesting to see the other tools and jigs required. Also interesting to see which jigs you can make and which you need to buy. Thanks for posting this. Jez

Slowly, slowly...…. Finally got a little bit of time to get on with a few jobs on this build. I've been waiting for some fret wire for about 3 weeks and finally it turned up so off we go! First up I cut the fret wire to length and nipped the tangs at the end so I can fill in the ends of the fret slots with ebony powder and glue. This should leave the slots looking nearly invisible, but if not, at least very tidy. I have a small block of wood I keep the cut frets in so I know which one goes in which location. Next task was to use a radiused sanding block to radius the fretboard. Checked my measurements and used a 16" radius block starting off with 180 grit, then 320, 500 and finished with 800. I'm pleased with how this piece of ebony looks and how it has finished so far. I have an arbor press fitted with a fret caul and it makes fretting a neck reasonably straight forward. I've used masking tape on the board to protect the ebony whilst I do this. First few frets fitted: then some more... all fitted.. I've trimmed the fret end but they still need filing level to the board before I can fill the ends. Getting there, finally!!

Keep posting your builds on here when you get set up over there as they are fantastic! You can skip any pictures of the food, scenery, weather or your drum sander.....! All the best

Funny you say that, the other day I was looking at a (cheap) acoustic I have thinking exactly same.

That really is rather nice...…..

Cheers! The fingerboard on this build will be radiused to 14" to match the radius on the piezo element. I haven't tried a flat fingerboard yet - another thing on a list of to-do's and to-try's!! Jez

I finally got round to looking at my planer thicknesser. It isn't an expensive £160 but still an expensive enough tool for a hobby. I've had it just over three years and it hasn't been used that much, just the stuff I've done on here. In my previous post I said it was playing up, what it wasn't doing was cutting square, which is kind of an issue!! You could see looking at the top that the drum wasn't parallel to the planning surface - one side had dropped for some reason. Customer service were no help (out of warranty / Chinese import so no-one here that could advise) so I ended up taking it to bits to look for the issue. After a while of undoing bolts I removed the bearing for the cutter. Utterly knackered. You could even see where the axle had been rubbing on the bearing bracket making the shaft drop by a couple of mm. I managed to remove the bearing it fell to pieces so ended up being removed by cutting it carefully with a Dremel. The good news is that Is a standard size and a new quality Japanese bearing is only about £5 and will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully, everything will go back together without leaving me with some spare bolts and I can get on with this project and some others!! I'll see how this goes but I have been looking at other planers. Unfortunately there is a big jump in price up to the next level of quality - about £800 which is a hell of a lot. Must have a really good dig down the back of the sofa...….

Slowly, slowly but getting there....headstock shaping finished.

Lovely!

The DR Fat Beams measure 960mm, the Skjold are 950mm to the taper

http://www.rotosound.com/bass-string-scale-length-guide/ I notice that says 'to silk' - the ones I have don't have silk but they are a few years old!! Might be worth a mail to Rotosound….

No worries. Just measures the E string and its 950mm from end of ball to taper if that helps.

I think this cover looks better than this one So that's the one I think I will go with.

Just had a quick look and the sets I have that don't have silk are DR Fat-Beams, Skjold and Rotosound Roto Bass RB40. All are long scale round wounds if that is any help.