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Jabba_the_gut

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Everything posted by Jabba_the_gut

  1. I've also read an article where the builder use silicon sealer in the truss rod cavity to allow movement but remove any chance of the rod rattling. This would also prevent glue ingress. I have tried this despite my loathing of silicone sealant (bought a house where the previous folk had used it everywhere.....) and it worked fine. But have to be careful it doesn't end up anywhere else!!
  2. I've also read an article where the builder use silicon sealer in the truss rod cavity to allow movement but remove any chance of the rod rattling. This would also prevent glue ingress. I have tried this despite my loathing of silicone sealant (bought a house where the previous folk had used it everywhere.....) and it worked fine. But have to be careful it doesn't end up anywhere else!!
  3. Cheers Andy. I'm really enjoying this build and there are lots of options to try!! The neck woods look lovely against the bodies so I'm really looking forward to getting those done. However, I'm expecting them to be a little tricky as I'll have to make jigs to cut the shape for the headpiece I think. I'm also deciding on the wood for the fretboard. I'm thinking plain ebony for the burl one and ovangkol for the other one. Lots to do!!
  4. Got some more done on these today and I'm quite pleased with how they are looking so far. I'm also having a variety of thoughts regarding pickups - I'm half thinking of installing just a piezo in the bridge on the burl top. I'm also thinking about making a 30" neck for one of them, though that may follow later. I've done the routing for the neck and bridge on both of these and I've also started rounding the edges. Next task is to route the two neck blanks for truss rods.
  5. What glue do you use to bond wood and polycarbonate? Cheers
  6. Yep - 9 pieces in that neck. Plus another 6 pieces if you count my muppetry earlier where I made up the veneer bits to put between the thicker pieces. I made them light-dark-light instead of dark-light-dark as I confused myself in the 20 feet between my house and garage and made them up wrong...….DOH!! Start again and take the neck pieces with you for reference......
  7. I've taken the offcuts from a couple of other builds and made the neck blanks for these basses. One is maple with dark and light veneer stripes, the other is birds eye maple with strips of Sapele and maple. Next task is to route these for truss rods.
  8. Hi Andy, Cheers - it's getting there! As soon as I get a neck blank made I can cut the neck pocket and get the edges rounded which always makes it look like progress. All the routing on this is just with a basic Black and Decker router with 1/4" collet. I think I used a Trend template cutter about 25mm long and about 18mm diameter. I would have gone round in three passes I'd like to get one of those four flute cutters @Christine recently bought - they look really useful, but not cheap!! The control cavity and cover recesses were also cut using Trend cutters both 12mm diameter, one 25mm long the other 12mm long. I did try some cheap cutters from Amazon but they are a waste of money!! I recently found the Tewkesbury Saw Company - didn't realise I had a supplier of quality tools right on my doorstep. Only trouble is they have loads of good stuff, routers, planers, bandsaws for which I have neither the money or space!! Cheers Jez
  9. These are moving on okay - I'll post some proper details later. At the moment, there are two bodies and lots of holes... And a neck for the spalted top one...
  10. I tried a little bit of oil on a couple of offcuts of the burl top. Think this will look good after a few coats. Both pieces have been oiled but using two different types of oil - one remains pretty much as it was, the other darkens a bit. I prefer the darker one as I think the grain and colours show up more.
  11. I've also drilled the neck mounting bolt holes. As the neck is so short and there is going to be a radius on the top horn down the centre of the neck, I'm going to try using cap head bolts rather than neck ferrules as they are a smaller diameter.
  12. I have been doing quite a few bits and pieces and progress should increase soon! I have started making a neck for another bass, which I wanted to do so I could use the offcuts for the neck on one of these two. In the meantime I have routed the control cavity and battery compartment. I decided to try recessing the top of the battery box to see if it looks a better, which I think it will. It's not decided what pickups or electronics I'll use yet but the bodies have been drilled for wires so they should cater for a few options. This is the neck for the other bass - I'll use the two side offcuts for one of these two headless things..
  13. Cheers for the details Christine. I know nothing about Gibson basses so always good to learn and that picture shows it all. Jez
  14. Really liking this thread. Just out of interest, the bridge and tailpiece are closer to the neck than on other basses I’ve seen with Warwick parts. What scale are these basses? Cheers Jez
  15. That sounds very much ike a Blue Yamaha BEX4....
  16. I had an old Kay P bass in natural too. My first bass. Seem to remember it being chunky and heavy!! Enjoying watching the progress of this project. Cheers
  17. This is how these two look at the moment. Quite a lot of the dark wood will be removed from the burl top when the routing is done for the bridge. I'm hoping the layers will look nice when the edges are rounded - I'll use the offcuts to try a couple of different cutters with different radii. But that will have to happen after I earn garage time after doing more DIY.....
  18. I hadn't tried this before but I used dust from the burl top mixed into a small quantity of Cascamite glue. Seems ok so far. I do like the look of poplar - be interested to see how you get on with it. Cheers
  19. I'll be very interested to know how that Radian cutter performs. Had a look at the link you posted and it certainly sounds the business. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for and if it gives a nice finish, it would save a lot of hassle too. Cheers
  20. Here's the first pile of wood for the next one of these..... And the second pile of wood!
  21. Not done that much on these (as I'm building four basses at the same time at the moment - two of these short things and two more semi hollow basses) but have glued on the burl and joined the two halves . On the basis that I'm quite slow at building anyway, this could take a while!! Think the top of this short thing should look quite nice when it is oiled. It needed quite a but of filling so some sanding dust and wood glue mix was used to fill the holes. This is what the layers look like from the side so these should look nice once the body edges have been rounded over. Next step is to cut this to shape and trip it with the router. After that, the various pockets can be routed.
  22. I'll be interested to know what you think of the pickups - I was eyeing a pair of these for a project....
  23. I like the Warwick bridges and have used a few on my builds. I made templates for routing both parts but have found slight differences in sizes between tail pieces (I do tend to be very tight with my templates and leave very little tolerance). I have a bass I built to have chrome hardware and changed my mind, so I bought some black hardware instead but the new tail piece wouldn't fit. It won't take much to fix but must give myself a bit more room next time!! Just thought I'd mention it as you are making a pair of basses.
  24. Got to be honest, I really like the natural finish much more than the red!! Very nice project this.
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