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Jabba_the_gut

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Everything posted by Jabba_the_gut

  1. Started cutting and gluing!! I'm going to try to make 2 or 3 of these to try a few different things. First off is a sapele body, wenge veneer and maple top. The maple should look quite good when oiled (I'm hoping!!) Glued up sandwiches.... To make running wires through the body easier, I drill holes before gluing the two halves together. I then insert a straw in the hole to prevent any glue clogging it up when the halves are joined. To ensure I don't drill too far into the body, I draw the rough direction of the hole then mark the length with masking tape on the drill. The side have then been joined Then the outline of the bass is rough cut ready for routing
  2. And some more piccies in the garden sun! I replaced the original string retainer bar as I got a comment that the Hipshot one on the ash bass I made looked much better. I quite agree!
  3. Will do. I'll try and post some tomorrow. Cheers for all the comments - much appreciated!!
  4. Cheers Lee . I’m really pleased at how nice this sounded - I will be building another one!!
  5. Thanks to @Si600 for organising this. Nice to meet up with everyone again and trying a few new bits of kit, in particular @Lee-Man's Precision and @prowla's Rik. Always good to see @Lee-Man playing my basses as I get to hear how nice they can sound in the hands of someone who really knows what they are doing!!I See you next year!!
  6. For quiet, active EMGs are excellent and silent. I've used them with both EMG and East preamps and really liked both. The new EMG stuff is really easy to install as the have just got connectors; only down side is it the existing holes in the body for wiring are too small for the connectors then it is soldering time! Cheers
  7. For me, I rarely use forstner bits. I generally cut pickup and neck pockets with a router using a normal cutter to remove the bulk then a template cutter for the finishing. When I made my semi hollow bass, I did use a forstner bit in a pillar drill to remove the bulk as it seemed easier and a pillar drill is less aggressive than a router!!!
  8. Anymore people definitely coming to make it a bit louder?!! If so, please add to this thread. Cheers
  9. Looking very nice! How are you planning on cutting the neck pocket?
  10. I’ve made some modifications to the headstock clamp (and considered the experience Mottlefeeder) to something that feels like it should work!! I’ll make a test rig to try this before to see if this works prior to cutting the neck for this part. Then if I need to do something different, at least I won’t need to remake a neck. The headstock clamp looks like it is made out of some kind of alloy and is soft in comparison to steel so will need to be careful no to strip any threads....
  11. Hi David, Cheers for the details. The headstock clamp was the next thing on my list to look at to see if it would work as I'd like or if another solution is required!! I anticipated that this may be awkward and require some modification so I bought a spare headstock part but your advise will save me trying some things out. Cheers
  12. Absolutely! Want to make sure the neck has a nice, neat and tight fit before I cut anything. Same for the control cover, bridge etc..!!! Cheers
  13. Just finished making the final templates for this so won't be too long before I get building. There are quite a few templates for this build - I haven't included the pickup cut out as that will be done later when the pickup choice is finalised (or I build more than one with different pickups....). So here's the template set for this build all made from mdf
  14. Pm'd
  15. Nice project! Just the job!
  16. This sort of cutter https://www.transtools.co.uk/accessories/router-cutters/template-cutters/silverline-template-router-cutter-bit-12in-tct-34-x-114-x-34
  17. The 1/2" is the shank, 12 mm is the diameter of the cutter and 50mm is the cutting surface length. I use a template cutter for trimming - these have a bearing on them that runs along the template edge so you can't cut too much off. You have to take it gently and not try to cut too much off as the cutter could snatch and take a chunk out (as I've learnt!!). I often use a shorter cutter and go take a couple of goes to cut the shape.
  18. I stacked up the templates so far and it actually gives an idea of what it will look like!! One more template to go then I can start cutting stuff.
  19. Have a look at the heel of a Yamaha TRB 1004 ( there's one in the for sale section) - think that bolt on joint would suit this bass. Cheers
  20. I too received wood from the postman yesterday and was very excited!! Titebond original works for me as far a glues go and there is no need for dowels. l’m liking this so far - if there is anything I can do to help just give me a shout. Cheers Jez
  21. That's a lovely job! Nice one! Jez
  22. Started making the templates for this. I've made the main body and neck templates for. I need to make one template for the routing of the neck pocket, bridge pockets and control cavity and another template for the control cavity cover. Once that is done, I can choose the wood I'm going to use and start building!!
  23. I agree - looks nice and I prefer it to the white body. Cheers
  24. Not far off now. Please add your names to the list if you’re coming so we can get an idea of the numbers attending and the variety of gear!
  25. Found this on the web. Presume you are planning a bolt on neck so this will need adapting...
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