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Jabba_the_gut

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Everything posted by Jabba_the_gut

  1. Routed the tabs for the pickups. One more little job done. Pickups fit quite nicely.
  2. Got lots more sanding to do but this is how the body looks at the moment. Next task was to mark out the position for the fret slots and cut them. I used StewMacs online fret position calculator for this; the bass has a scale of 800mm. The scale length was determined as the templates were created for a previous bass that was being strung with LaBella nylons and that was the maximum length available for that design so the silk wrappings were in the correct place.
  3. I really like the look of both of these basses - stunning work. I like the contrast of the wenge and padauk so much I just went and bought some padauk for a future project!! Keep posting the progress. Cheers Jez
  4. And the back marked out for a bit of carving too.
  5. Cheers Norris. Really useful tools these.
  6. Rough rounding of body done. Bit of shaping required then lots of sanding.....
  7. I have to say I'm starting to get into them too. I made a short scale bass with a neck using the offcuts from a long scale bass neck I was making. It was only short scale as that was how long the wood was but it turned out really well and is lovely to play. I also made a medium scale fretless bass using the same body and neck templates I'm using for this bass and that is also really nice to play. I will be using the offcuts from the neck on this bass to make another short scale - that'll be another project for next year!! I'm looking forward to seeing how this fretted bass turns out.
  8. Control cover cavity now routed. String ferrule holes drilled and now ready for rounding the edges. This is the bit I like doing as it really transforms it from looking like a block of wood to looking like a bass body.
  9. I've cut the pocket using this repaired template and it looks fine. Second template ready to go in the picture for the control cover cavity.
  10. I used some more MDF to make a couple of templates for the control cavity and cover. I made a bit of a pigs ear of the cavity template and needed to build back up a section where I got a bit carried away with the router - doh!! It looks a bit untidy where layers of veneer have been added and sanded back but this is absolutely fine for a template.
  11. Cheers. Hopefully it will look and sound nice when done. I have no idea what the Schaller pickup will be like so will have to wait a while to find that out!!
  12. I used the template to trim around the shape and make everything look a bit neater!! Next task was to cut the pocket for the pickup. I've previously made a template for the main body of the pickup and it worked well last time. There does seem to be a fair bit of difference when it comes to the size of the mounting lugs so I'll make another template that will suit this particular pickup and add that to the template library. With the pickup routed, the hole drilled for the wires can now be seen (and has ended up in the right place thankfully!). Next task is to route the control cavity and check that the hole made it all the way to that. I don't have suitable templates for this so they need to be made first. Two templates are required; one for the actual cavity with space for the cover screws, and one for the actual cover shape.
  13. Hi Mick. This bass will be the same shape as this spalted beech one but will be a little heavier!! The two pieces of ash weighed about 5.7kg but should drop by a couple of kg when the body shape is cut. With the body halves joined, I checked them front and back and they needed just a little sanding to make them completely flat. With that complete the body shape was rough cut.
  14. This is one option I'm considering but can't decide if it looks 'cheap'. The two edges of the body were planed and a hole drilled for where I want the pickup cable to run - sometimes it is easier to do that at this point rather than trying to use a long drill later on in the build (just have to record where the hole is so cavities can be routed in the right place later!!). I then joined the two halves using three clamps to hold the body together and two g-clamps to keep it aligned. Even at this point, I'm quite pleased with how this ash looks. The piece I bought from the tree surgeon is plenty big enough to make another body from and, if anything, the piece I have left is a bit nicer than this. This piece has some kind of 'feature' in it but that will be well out of the way when the body shape is cut.
  15. Hi Rubis. I did consider a Schaller bridge - I have a spare 2000 model but I'd like to use a two piece type. Ideally I'd like this bass to look similar to the semi hollow one I made so I'm looking for something quite specific, will possibly an ETS part. Still looking at options at the moment.....
  16. I've decided to shelve my planned headless bass whilst I have a bit of a think.... So instead, I've decided to build a medium scale solid bodied bass. I'm going to use the same body shape I used for a recent semi-hollow build and the same scale neck. I have a piece of ash I got from a local tree surgeon a while back which I'm using for the body. The ash is quite a good size and I've had it thicknessed; there are a few faults in the timber but I'll be able to work around those. I've got a piece of bocote for the fretboard and a piece of maple for the neck. Pickup wise, I have a new-old-stock Schaller active p-bass pickup and some Schaller machine heads. I'm not settled on the bridge yet but have a few ideas.
  17. Hi, I bought one of these Steinberger copy bridges from eBay for a project but I'm not going to use it. £25 posted
  18. Er. No update. Put the bits back in their boxes. Having a think about it............have started building an ash bodied medium scale bass with an active p pickup though!!
  19. Not sure, never tried it!! I would have thought that a couple of 6mm hardwood towels would be plenty to stop the bridge moving. Cheers
  20. Hi Honza, Could you possibly use a couple of short dowels / locator pins that protrude a couple of mm from the face of the body. Then you could have a couple of matching shallow holes in the bottom of the bridge to locate on the pins. The holes in the bridge then don't need to go all the way through so keeping the looks. Does this make sense???!!
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