Jabba_the_gut

The top I'm using for build #4 on here was from another wenge floor board that I was given. Cut it down and got it planed to the right thickness. The grain on that board is lovely. I'm sure there is more wood like it out there that would otherwise go to waste.

I’m probably going to have a go at a scarf joint on this neck as that is something that I haven’t tried before and would be going to try on something that doesn’t matter too much. I’m also thinking of making this 32” scale just to see how I like that. No ideas as yet as to what finish I’ll use on the body. I might use oil if it looks okay once sanded or I might try a solid colour – a little way off from that at the moment.

Once dried this was then planed to make it nice and level – turned quite nicely I think. I have an old ebony fret board blank I’m thinking of using with this but I’m waiting to see if I can get hold of some recycled wood first just so I can say the whole bass I made from recycled wood. It does look nice on the neck.

I had a strip of wenge from an old floorboard I was given and a scrap strip of some other hardwood which contrasted nicely with the bit of neck wood. The neck was cut down the centre line and the three strips added. The whole lot was then glued and clamped.

There was enough wood for two bodies so I’m thinking a passive PJ bass for one of them to use some Fender MIM pickups I have in my ‘bit’ box. With the second body, I was hoping to make an electro acoustic (think recycled version of a Rob Allen bass...) using the two larger panels from the door as the top of the bass but one of the two panels was such a poor piece of wood that idea has been abandoned for the moment.

This is something I have been messing with over the past month – still very much work in progress but just a bit of fun whilst I sort out what I am doing with another bass build that has been ongoing for far too long! I picked up an old hardwood front door off Freecycle that I was looking to see if I could repair and replace my current front door. Once it had thoroughly dried out over summer I could see it was going to be scrap. Rather than take it to the tip, I broke it down to see if there would be enough wood to make a bass! There aren’t any pieces long enough to avoid dowels etc used in the door construction to make a neck but there was enough wood to make a couple of simple bodies. The main frame sections of the door were cut up then planed to shape in order to make two four piece bodies. I’m not sure what the wood is – it’s not the best in the world but should be adequate for a couple of simple bodies that can use some of the bits of old hardware I have acquired over the past few years. I also acquired another piece of hardwood from my dad which I think was a bit of an old shelf or desk – might be Sapele but not sure. It’s a pretty hard piece of wood and straight grained so should be good for a neck. There’s a few holes from screw and nails in it but I should be able to work around these.

Welcome! These look really nice - I'll be following with interest. Cheers

I really like that scratch plate!!

Agree with both Norris and JPJ again. I have a Dremel router and they aren't the most accurate of tools. It has some uses but only for very light work - I've used it for block inlays and it would flex even at that. I recently modified a 4 string Music man scratch plate into a 5 string one using an mdf template and 1/4" router template cutter and it turned out very nicely. I made a template from clear perspective once and that melted using a template cutter causing me to cut into the neck I was making - learnt a lesson about plastic and routers that day.....

I think Norris sums it up - the key is decent, accurate templates that are securely clamped in place and have been tested on scrap first! I have a basic Black and Decker router that cost less than £50 and I get some very accurate results. The pictures on here for my current build were done with that router. Like Norris, my templates are just made from mdf. And I completely agree from the safety perspective. Cheers Jez

Interesting discussion. I haven't ever tried to do a scarf joint - might have a go on a few scraps and see if I can get it anywhere near accurate enough. Is there any particular angle that should be aimed for? I'd guess around 10 to 15 degrees, but that is a guess!! Cheers

Thanks for the details - I'll take a look. I've really struggled to find anything suitable so far. Thanks again. Jez

Hi, Just wondered if anyone knows of any (not too expensive....) strings I can use on a 5 string Crafter BA580 acoustic bass. The bass is 32" scale - long scale strings are too long i.e. the fat part of the string windings ends up going round the tuner. I can find 4 string sets but not 5 string sets. I would also consider nylon/tape wound strings. Does anyone have any suggestions please? Cheers Jez

That looks really nice! Might try some of that oil/wax on a bass I'm building at the moment - the finish looks superb

[font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]Cheers for the comments – much appreciated!! Building the odd bass now and then is my outlet from a day job shuffling papers.....[/color][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]I’ve done a couple of bits to this recently. I’ve made a controls cover from the same piece of wenge used for the front and I’ve cut the fretboard to shape. The maple for the fretboard is really nice so I’m not going to put block inlays on this as first planned but I will still add side LEDs (probably in white and because I am a tart....).[/color][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]I’ve allowed a battery for the LEDs and the possibility of an active circuit but I might leave it passive. I have no idea what passive Bartolini jazz pickups sound like yet so I’ll decide on that later.[/color][/size][/font]

I'd make a template from mdf or similar then use a template cutter router bit. This will make a really neat job and could be used for the body too. I've done this for a scratchplate for a 5 string USA SUB stingray and it looked cracking. Here's a photo of one I made for a bass in the build diaries section. Cheers Jez

Cheers for the positive comments chaps. I've got to say that I'm really pleased with how this one is going so far. I've done a bit of rough sanding to the edges and the veneer pinstripe is looking nice I think. The wenge is rock hard and didn't want to plane by hand very easily!! An old electric planer sorted that.

It's been a while but have finished (nearly...) the DIY so managed to get back on with this build. Started building a new neck that will have a plain maple fretboard as I used the wenge/block inlay neck on another build. I will have LEDs on the neck again though.....

Hi Ian. The Warwick bridge would sit far too high if you don't cut a recess with a router. Off the top of my head I seem to remember on the ones I've done having to cut a slot about 7mm deep for the string anchor and about 15mm for the saddles. I've made a template for cutting these if you get stuck. Cheers

Cheers Andy for all the details and the link. I was wondering about putting a 2mm wide/10mm deep strip either side of the truss rod as should be easy to fit. Might just give it a go and see what happens!!

Cheers for all the comments - much appreciated. I do find this a really useful forum and have found some really helpful information. There's some really beautiful and interesting builds that are always giving me ideas. It's also nice to have met up with a couple of guys from here at the Midlands bass bash too. Right, off to continue with my other half finished build.... Cheers again Jez

I'm finding this thread quite interesting. I've never had a bass with them in, I don't think I've even played a bass with them in so can make no comment on their benefit. I haven't built a bass with them in either but kind of feel I should if I ever want to try selling one of my basses as it seems some people want them!! If I am going to fit them what size should be used? Andy's eBay link chap sells 2 x 10mm strips - would these be any good? Cheers