Mr. Foxen

Barefaced 2x15 that is a one handed lift. Bottom one: [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/Rig002.jpg[/IMG]

Bass collection: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bass-Collection-Californian-Electric-Bass-Guitar-Cherry-/230769704262?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item35baf23d46

Keep the amp, get a lighter cab (Barefaced). Bring the amp to mine and have a go with my Super 15. Dirt pedals won't sound as sweet into hybrids.

[quote name='binky_bass' timestamp='1332950593' post='1595419'] Trouble shooting this issue was easier with your help guys, so thanks! Everything is quite as a mouse now indeed, a decent supply is in order, though currently I'm far to poor for such things, though for the future, which is the best power supply? I have 10 pedals to power... Russ. [/quote] Check all the pedals for their power draw, in some sort of subdivision of amps, digital ones need much more power than simple analogue ones. Total it up, and ad some headroom, and that tells you how much of a power supply you will need.

[quote name='subrob' timestamp='1333062782' post='1596998'] Speaker wattage is basically a measure of how much amplifier energy you can dump into it before it starts to distort, or eventually overheat or otherwise become damaged. This depends on materials used in the driver, the quality of the design and workmanship, but also on what sort of testing standards have been used by the manufacturer. all of those are variables. As Steve says, there are few if any formats you can put together where the wattage of the drivers is not simply cumulative. [/quote] The wattage quoted on speakers is the amount of power required to cause thermal failure. The amount for distortion or other forms of breakage are totally different numbers, that vary with frequency.

Rule is, if you like the sound of the one you have, but need louder, get another the same. If you don't like the one you have, replace it entirely.

Low powered is a bonus for the purposes of the sort of people who spend lots of money on old guitar amps. It is nostalgia to an extent. Guitar equipment is 90% mojo and 11% snake oil, because you have to have 1% more for the tone.

If it hasn't sold, it isn't worth that much... yet. But if you have to buy one, maybe that is the best price you can get one for.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1332858621' post='1594043'] I believe that there are exceptions... [url="http://www.hi-tone-amps.com/product1.html"]http://www.hi-tone-a...m/product1.html[/url] ...not the cheapest, but pretty darned close to the 'real thing', imho... [/quote] [quote][list] [*]Heyboer Transformers (the best Partridge clones made today) [/list] [/quote] No. Wiring still isn't up there. The floating radial electrolytics put it somewhere at late Sound city territory, and fully not to military standard since vibration will snap the legs off.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1332774089' post='1592898'] Yeah but it would be cool if it didn't do it in the first place. It's so annoying, it's not like I ever want to buy any of that sh*t anyway. [/quote] When I'm browsing amps its usually a selection of my own items. Thanks Ebay.

Think it pretty much refers to styling only. Most of the things that made Hiwatt great aren't available any more, including Dave Reeves (and WW2 MOD standard wirers in general).

There are a few servisol products, not all have lubricant. Whichever of de-oxit or Peavey funkout the Subthumper uses does leaves a residue, as sprayed some in a cap for dipping, and it retained an oily film. I jsut looked, I have Servisol Super 10, says lubricant, but is doesn't leave much residue, I think the IPA100 or similar is the no lube one. ED40 does bad things to plastics, not sure if it is the oily part or the solvent part though, pretty bad news for your fingers either way.

The tweeter means you can hear high pitched noise, turn down the tweeter or remove it and its there, but the speaker isn't making it audible.

If you get it when you attach your pedal board, then the pedal board is the problem. Does your cab have a tweeter?

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1332756159' post='1592464'] Surprised people picked up on the oiling the pots. [/quote] We recently had a discussion in repairs and tech about fret finishing, regarding wire wool techniques, it is a valid one if you do it right. Oil in pots is always a no though, especially WD40. Putting WD40 into electronics is bad, and happens too often.

Silly thing is, maybe 75% of sellers of non-giant items listed collect only will post if you message and ask.

[quote name='Mark David Phillips' timestamp='1332706822' post='1592001'] I oil crackly pots [/quote] Aaargh

I got a very nice bass for not very much because it sounded bad, due to a run down battery. How easy is it to get at in a Stingray?

[quote name='jack1999' timestamp='1332617438' post='1590840'] The "professional" thing is a moot point. As far as I know there are no "professional qualifications" in the world of guitar building / luthering such as there are in say medicine, accountancy, insurance or law etc. The things that give you letters after your name. Therefore "professional" is always going to mean different things to different people. What criteria would you apply before someone can claim to be a professional in the art of guitar set-up? [/quote] There are various qualifications that can be got for purpose of guitar work. But for the purpose of this forum, it is here: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/26654-recommended-luthiers/ That give you 'competent' and 'recommended'. Professional means doing as a business or being paid to do so, and you've already implied this guy doesn't come under that category either. Some people don't like dictionary definitions though.

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1332611574' post='1590742'] Is that a recent change in transformer specification or speculation? Most manufacturers will put a dual voltage transformer in not only because its more convenient (and cheaper) but also because that's what musicians who tour between continents expect. Both my mesas had a 120/240v switch on the back IIRC [/quote] Been going on for a long time, old amps made for the domestic US markets don't have switchable voltage. Don't much deal with more recent ones, because the ones I'll see are made for export. More likely the transformer will have taps now they are likely importing them, but domestic ones still probably won't have a switch.

[quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1332596927' post='1590474'] Hi all, I must confess to being a tad provocative here but a quick read of this, [url="http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-levelchange.htm"]http://www.sengpiela...levelchange.htm[/url], and this, [url="http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/voltageloudness.html"]http://www.gcaudio.c...geloudness.html[/url], ignore the maths, will show that all things being equal, you would need a 1000w amp to be twice as loud as 100w, a 10db increase in volume. Doubling of the power of an amp would only give an increase of 3db which is 1.23 times the loudness, not a lot really and probably hardly noticeable. I have played with the same band for 25 years and the backline and drums have remained constant, apart for the bass gear, in all that time I have had a good real world chance to try different things. I wish I could be happy with my sound and although I always am, the dreaded GAS keeps raising its ugly head. The guitarist uses an AC30. An amp that defies all logic as far as volume is concerned. It's a 3 piece and I do the sound checks and guitar and drums do as they're told as far as sound and volume goes. We play anywhere but mainly pubs and clubs and we all know what the volume restrictions are like in these venues and the volumes are rarely loud enough to need PA support. When the band started I was using a valve Hiwatt 100w. No problem in the bass dept. and I loved the sound, but could it be better? Hiwatt sold, how I regret that and Peavey 700w Firebass takes it place. Suddenly the bass can't keep up with an AC30. What? The Peavey broke so I got a Carvin R1000 head. Nice amp but still couldn't keep up with an AC30. Strangely, the R1000 broke as well so got a Carvin B1500. This puts out 1900w at 2 ohms so is just about twice as loud as 100w head and it's a fantastic amp and I've still got it and at last a ss amp that's loud enough to keep up with an AC30. You guessed it. GAS again. I've now got a Mywatt 200 and it's brilliant with volume to spare. The AC30 has never been used flat out and while the position of the volume knob means not a lot, it is quite often set at one. My experience if just that, using valve and ss amps live. Valve amps generally have passive eq so you take away tone away to get the sound. SS amps have active eq so you add tone to get your sound. A sweeping generalization but you know what I mean. Turn up the bass on a ss amp and you drain the power supply so not a lot of volume. Again a sweeping generalization, but is you like a sound rich in mids then a ss amp is probably fine but if like me you like a lot of bass in your sound and little middle, ss amps are not man enough and only valves will do unless you have a 2000w amp of course. Once used an HH 130w bass head with a country band and the two 30w equipped guitarists drowned be out. I bought a Behringer 450 watt head as a spare. I only used it once to try it out and no one could hear a note and it was flat out. I know it's Behringer but that was ridiculous. [/quote] You've misidentified pretty much all the factors there. The Firebass goes really low, and has a low bass eq knob, most cabs can't cope with it, it destroys things, because it has so much bass. If you want mids, the harmonics provided by a mildly distorting valve amp will give them to you, but they won't give you nearly as much bass as a more powerful SS amp. With high power solid state amps the excursion limit of your cab is you major limiting factor.