Mr. Foxen

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1333111329' post='1597566'] +1 Why do you service the amp every year? I'd leave it until something goes wrong. [/quote] If it has to be serviced/revalved every year, something is wrong.

Barefaced 2x15 that is a one handed lift. Bottom one: [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/Rig002.jpg[/IMG]

Bass collection: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bass-Collection-Californian-Electric-Bass-Guitar-Cherry-/230769704262?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item35baf23d46

Keep the amp, get a lighter cab (Barefaced). Bring the amp to mine and have a go with my Super 15. Dirt pedals won't sound as sweet into hybrids.

[quote name='binky_bass' timestamp='1332950593' post='1595419'] Trouble shooting this issue was easier with your help guys, so thanks! Everything is quite as a mouse now indeed, a decent supply is in order, though currently I'm far to poor for such things, though for the future, which is the best power supply? I have 10 pedals to power... Russ. [/quote] Check all the pedals for their power draw, in some sort of subdivision of amps, digital ones need much more power than simple analogue ones. Total it up, and ad some headroom, and that tells you how much of a power supply you will need.

[quote name='subrob' timestamp='1333062782' post='1596998'] Speaker wattage is basically a measure of how much amplifier energy you can dump into it before it starts to distort, or eventually overheat or otherwise become damaged. This depends on materials used in the driver, the quality of the design and workmanship, but also on what sort of testing standards have been used by the manufacturer. all of those are variables. As Steve says, there are few if any formats you can put together where the wattage of the drivers is not simply cumulative. [/quote] The wattage quoted on speakers is the amount of power required to cause thermal failure. The amount for distortion or other forms of breakage are totally different numbers, that vary with frequency.

Rule is, if you like the sound of the one you have, but need louder, get another the same. If you don't like the one you have, replace it entirely.

Low powered is a bonus for the purposes of the sort of people who spend lots of money on old guitar amps. It is nostalgia to an extent. Guitar equipment is 90% mojo and 11% snake oil, because you have to have 1% more for the tone.

If it hasn't sold, it isn't worth that much... yet. But if you have to buy one, maybe that is the best price you can get one for.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1332858621' post='1594043'] I believe that there are exceptions... [url="http://www.hi-tone-amps.com/product1.html"]http://www.hi-tone-a...m/product1.html[/url] ...not the cheapest, but pretty darned close to the 'real thing', imho... [/quote] [quote][list] [*]Heyboer Transformers (the best Partridge clones made today) [/list] [/quote] No. Wiring still isn't up there. The floating radial electrolytics put it somewhere at late Sound city territory, and fully not to military standard since vibration will snap the legs off.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1332774089' post='1592898'] Yeah but it would be cool if it didn't do it in the first place. It's so annoying, it's not like I ever want to buy any of that sh*t anyway. [/quote] When I'm browsing amps its usually a selection of my own items. Thanks Ebay.

Think it pretty much refers to styling only. Most of the things that made Hiwatt great aren't available any more, including Dave Reeves (and WW2 MOD standard wirers in general).

There are a few servisol products, not all have lubricant. Whichever of de-oxit or Peavey funkout the Subthumper uses does leaves a residue, as sprayed some in a cap for dipping, and it retained an oily film. I jsut looked, I have Servisol Super 10, says lubricant, but is doesn't leave much residue, I think the IPA100 or similar is the no lube one. ED40 does bad things to plastics, not sure if it is the oily part or the solvent part though, pretty bad news for your fingers either way.

The tweeter means you can hear high pitched noise, turn down the tweeter or remove it and its there, but the speaker isn't making it audible.

If you get it when you attach your pedal board, then the pedal board is the problem. Does your cab have a tweeter?

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1332756159' post='1592464'] Surprised people picked up on the oiling the pots. [/quote] We recently had a discussion in repairs and tech about fret finishing, regarding wire wool techniques, it is a valid one if you do it right. Oil in pots is always a no though, especially WD40. Putting WD40 into electronics is bad, and happens too often.

Silly thing is, maybe 75% of sellers of non-giant items listed collect only will post if you message and ask.

[quote name='Mark David Phillips' timestamp='1332706822' post='1592001'] I oil crackly pots [/quote] Aaargh

I got a very nice bass for not very much because it sounded bad, due to a run down battery. How easy is it to get at in a Stingray?

[quote name='jack1999' timestamp='1332617438' post='1590840'] The "professional" thing is a moot point. As far as I know there are no "professional qualifications" in the world of guitar building / luthering such as there are in say medicine, accountancy, insurance or law etc. The things that give you letters after your name. Therefore "professional" is always going to mean different things to different people. What criteria would you apply before someone can claim to be a professional in the art of guitar set-up? [/quote] There are various qualifications that can be got for purpose of guitar work. But for the purpose of this forum, it is here: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/26654-recommended-luthiers/ That give you 'competent' and 'recommended'. Professional means doing as a business or being paid to do so, and you've already implied this guy doesn't come under that category either. Some people don't like dictionary definitions though.

[quote name='Kiwi' timestamp='1332611574' post='1590742'] Is that a recent change in transformer specification or speculation? Most manufacturers will put a dual voltage transformer in not only because its more convenient (and cheaper) but also because that's what musicians who tour between continents expect. Both my mesas had a 120/240v switch on the back IIRC [/quote] Been going on for a long time, old amps made for the domestic US markets don't have switchable voltage. Don't much deal with more recent ones, because the ones I'll see are made for export. More likely the transformer will have taps now they are likely importing them, but domestic ones still probably won't have a switch.